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I need to reroute the air con lines around the front of my car See here for details) and I am having a real hard time finding anyone who does custom pipes. I was going to do it myself in stainless steel but the fixings at one end need TIG welding and if I have a flexy section in there, which I should have, I think, then I need a special 6 sided crimping tool which is about £150-£200 and I need it for 2 crimps.
The photo below shows the current aluminium pipe, with flexi section connected to the left air con radiator and then going up and over the bumper mounting. The other side is a mirror image with the pipe meeting a flexy and then a piece of aluminium going down to the radiator on that side.
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I want to reroute the pipe so it is lower and mounted under the bumper mounts as shown by the cupro nickel brake line I have made a pattern piece with. I guess that I can put the flexies in wherever is easiest but similar to the original.
Anyone know anyone, preferably near Southampton, who can help me out on this?
Do you know what the fittings are at either end? I imagine metric or annoying special ones? Would it be easier to just have a full length flexy? We’ve used Pirtek in the past for one off CO2 hoses. Also Spectrum hoses in High Wycombe, been a few years though.
Try hydraulic engineers, Pirtek Southampton for example.
Hyphose and Hampshire Hose don't touch aircon, I will try Pirtek in the morning. Failing that, I have watched 2 Americans do it on YouTube so I might just give it a go.
Radiator fixing
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Crimped fixing
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This lot may be helpful : https://www.bee-cool-aircon.co.uk/services/ac-pipe-repairs-and-fabrication/
Goodridge stuff?
I'd say it's probably best to use steel braided flexi hose wherever possible?
https://www.goodridge.co.uk/collections/202-series-braided-hose-and-fittings
Pirtek have nothing suitable on the website but I will ring and ask anyway.
The hoses and connectors have to be specific for air con on account of the freon gas molecule size, temperature variations and the pressures involved
Ahh, ok, what sort of material does the hose need to be made out of, would silicone hose work?
Sorry, I read the thread title wrong...
Not sure of the exact details of the flexi material but the rigid tubes tend to be either alumium or stainless steel.
Just found this video that shows the connector removed from the radiator. Interestingly the radiator is actually held in place by the pipes. One at the bottom shown disconnected and one at the opposite top corner.
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Definitely Porsche specific so it looks like I will need to get someone to weld what ever I need onto the existing bit of pipe. Bugger. I wonder if I can get away with bending the existing pipework - I don't think so but one to look at in the morning
They use a similar annoying fitting on the 968 oil cooler when a threaded fitting would be so much more convenient. Is it worth trying to find a used one to modify? Or maybe some other manufacturers use the same fittings. Volkswagen or Audi maybe.
There are specialists who'll make AC pipes, but it'll cost you (Bee Cool is the one that I'm aware off)
The end fittings are fairly standard sizes, but are AC specific.
You're cheaper option is likely trying to find a decent local independent Automotive AC guy, as the good ones will have the correct hose, and suitable fittings. We used to use a local guy who carried hose, along with various fittings for aftermarket systems, and as he was a one man band, he didn't worry too much about making changes that more official companies would avoid, as long as he would still get a functioning system that didn't leak.
(My previous employer used him to modify a batch of vehicles that the OE AC system regularly blocked and failed on due to the condenser location, and he didn't worry about extending the hoses and fitting a different condenser in a different location to improve reliability, when other companies refused to modify the system)
And the prize goes to FruitBat with this suggestion "https://www.bee-cool-aircon.co.uk/services/ac-pipe-repairs-and-fabrication/"
I spoke to David who listened to what I wanted and explained the best way to do it, what I needed to send him and will send the parts back in about a weeks time.
Good to know. I'd be interested to hear costs for your pipes as I've been quoted £430 for a new air con pipe for my Alfa 159.
Radiator fixing
If you don't want to set alarm bells ringing when you talk to a specialist, call it a condenser 🙂
Fruitbat - the off the cuff quote was 'about £300' for the ends and a flexi connector
molgrips - You know that, I know that but every other time I have called it a condenser I have had people ask if I can get a better photo as the condenser is hidden behind the radiator. 🙂
Interesting choice of terminology though. It is a unit designed to condense the aircom gasses, hence condenser. It does this by radiating the heat, hence radiator. The radiator mounted immediately behind it is part of the car cooling system and works identically but isn't a condenser because the car cooling fluid shouldn't have turned to gas.
Probably the same reason the heater matrix, isn't called a radiator. It provides a distinct naming difference between components.
Good to know. I’d be interested to hear costs for your pipes as I’ve been quoted £430 for a new air con pipe for my Alfa 159.
Years ago it cost me £700 to replace a leaking aircon pipe in my V64Motion Golf. Apparently they had to take the engine out to get to it....
Pipe alone was £350 IIRC.
~£300 was for the pipe only. I needed to fit it.
Often garages will do things like drop the engine because it is easier/quicker for them but is not absolutely necessary. Also they will charge set prices for units of work and do all units required to complete a job. The DPF filter on my exhaust was slightly clogged because of a failed solenoid used to trigger the auto clean. I used a bottle of fuel additive to clear the worst of it, replaced the solenoid and went for a blast up the motorway to let it self clean. All less than £50. The Mercedes dealer wanted £150 for diagnostics, £700 for DPF clean, £300 for solenoid replacement (or whatever they found), £150 for diagnostic check to see if it was cured....
The electric handbrake motor broke on my Range Rover for example. The 'workshop' starts with "Raise the car and remove the rear subframe" The DIY guide says loosen the 50mm subframe bolts and replace one at a time with 100mm bolts. This will allow you to lower the subframe just enough to get at the electric hand brake motor.
The water pump replacement on the 911 starts with "Remove the engine and transmission" while the DIY guide says support the engine on a trolly jack, loosen the supporting credle and allow it to drop just enough to give access"
If the rear brake pipes need replacing on the Porsche "Drop the engine and transmission..." or "use cupro-nickel brake pipes which can be fed over the engine and clipped into place".
Clearing fogged up headlight lenses "Sand the lenses with 1200 grit and then work up to 2500 before switching to abrasive compounds and finally polish". This will work for all lenses from the very worst to just minor fogging. For the DIT it is a lot better to start with the least abrasive and only increase the amount you remove if that doesn't work.
Depends if you feel comfortable doing this stuff yourself.
Often when you look at the professional approach, it is not the best but rather the quickest and most efficient way to do it.
Often garages will do things like drop the engine because it is easier/quicker for them but is not absolutely necessary. Also they will charge set prices for units of work and do all units required to complete a job.
Which is fine, I went to the main VW dealer and they did it by the book, for which you pay a bit more. But as it was literally opposite our office, it was just too convenient. I could connect to their guest Wifi from my desk....
It does this by radiating the heat, hence radiator.
Actually conduction, from the metal fins to the air passing through it.
[i]It does this by radiating the heat, hence radiator.
Actually conduction, from the metal fins to the air passing through it.[/i]
I don't need a smart arse right now but it is good to know that I have you on standby 😉
The prices for these relatively simple parts are horrendous.
I had to replace the compressor inlet/outlet pipe assembly - £300 for the part. The crimping on the pipe where the flexible joins the rigid pipe into the condenser had corroded and split.
The other pipe into the condenser was showing similar corrosion albeit less severe (this was the £430 pipe). I made an aluminium clamping block to compress the crimped section and hopefully stave off failure.
Any future problems - I'll be giving Bee Cool a call.
I also replaced the expansion valve as part of the diagnostics - the genuine Alfa part was £198! I fitted a Vauxhall valve costing £45
I like the crimping block idea. I have a leak on one pipe at the back that I will be looking at later so always happy to see ways to save £££