 You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Morning all..
Not the best with plumbing and heating so bare with me..
Had a 28mm heating pipe corrode (not lagged) in concrete floor in house, by the time the insurers plumber actually sorted it, severe damp had spread through my lounge, kitchen, bathroom and hallway, as they stated they had drained heating etc and had not, due to the gross delays in rectifying their work, i took cash settlement and need to redecorate those rooms and fit new flooring and bathroom suite.
What was clear was that our 18 year old oil boiler and the 70's pipework going through concrete floor are not fit for purpose anymore, and a friend who is a hearing engineer is going to fit new external oil boiler and radiators, with all new pipework coming from above, not through floor but cannot do the job for another 8-9 weeks as it is his busiest time, so i have stated i will drain heating system, take off old radiators, and cap the pipes in the floor. That means i can get on and decorate and lay new wood floor and tile before he comes, and i once decorated, i can hang new radiators ready for him...
(Sorry for the essay for a simple question..) If i dig down in concrete about an inch round each pipe, can i cut and use a push fit cap on end of pipe as these pipes will no longer be used, or does it need to be a copper cap soldered?
Once capped, as pipes are no longer being used, i guess i still need to wrap pipes to stop further corrosion from concrete, or does it not matter and just concrete over?
Anything else to be weary of?
As there won't be any water in them I don't see the point of a cap. I would cut off level with the concrete, bend/flatten the pipe in a bit, and fill over the top.
If you are not happy with that, then pushfit endstops are plenty good enough but will require a clean copper end to fit leak-tight. So would a soldered copper cap though.
I am not a plumber, builder, or expert in concrete/pipe corrosion though.
Agree with above, if they're not going to be used again and the pipes are disconnected from the main circuit.
I had a similar issue, disconnected the pipes from the main circuit at one end, blew/vacced as much water out as I could with a wet/dry vac. Trimmed pipes flush with the screed (multitool), siliconed the open ends, and laid new floor over.
Cool thanks both, probably being a bit over cautious having lived in damp part-flooded house for two months! I think i'll just use some push fit plastics caps as i have some here.
Do make sure the floor screed is fully dry before laying tiles or wood flooring 🤔
Think you are over thinking this but my 2ps worth
Wet and dry hoover out as much as you can
Knock up a tiny bit of strong mix sand and cement
Plug into each end couple of inches
Wait 24hrs
Fill hole in floor with kerraquick or no nonsense 50mm leveller as it cures very quickly
Fit new floor
Be wary of laying floor till the base has dried out....
Thanks all..
What everybody has said about the new floor…. you may have to wait quite some time before fitting new flooring especially the wood.
How are you going to drain down below floor level (your drain points will probably all be above floor level)? Not that it really matters - I'd slap a push fit cap on the end and move on.
Is this the flow or return?
Actually, you don't need to lay the floors before he comes do you.