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Im having a problem with the doors not opening from the outside on my Passat (55 plate). I know this is pretty common and i have tried the "slam the door a few times" which does randomly work for a while, however it keeps reocurring. DOes anyone have a difinative answer as to what the problem is and how to correct it?
i sorted mine out on a 54 plate by repeating locking/unlocking with the interior handle held open.
after a few tries something seemed to pop back into place and its been fine ever since.
One press of the ALARM OFF push button only unlocks the driver door. Two presses are required to open the passenger doors front and rear and the tailgate.
On mine (much older one - '99) it was dry joints in the door lock actuators that caused problems - the connector block has the weight of the loom in the door hanging from it and eventually the solder cracks.
Easy but time consuming fix. Took me best part of a day to do all 4 doors, although I got considerably quicker with practice!
the boot on my 55 passat has stopped opening from pressing the button and I have to use the key to open it, any fixes for this while we're on it?
55 plate, which model 3B or early 3C? If its the 3B door locks themselves are very common and more than onecan go at once, also may have water leak into NSF footwell which is where the convenience ECU is and water and ecu's don't mix. 3C passat same door locks can fail, if its unlocking but can't open from outside but can be openened from inside then the Bowden cables can fail from lock to handle.
assuming its the same lock as in my seat leon (and golfs/skoda/audi etc) then this is a common problem... Currently my passenger door is deadlocked and cannot be opened. If you can open your door form the inside still you need to fix this asap before your door stays locked forever!
Basically, the solder cracks on the circuit board (sometimes water gets in too, but mostly solder cracking). this causes intermitant faults, and sometimes slamming/ hitting the door will work temporarily, but long term its new lock mechanism/ re solder time. If you can get the lock mechanism out (e.g door can be opened) then take it appart remelt all the solder connection until they form well and bobs your uncle. If the door is stuck shut then you're in for some fun...
Today I have removed the top half of the trim (which will require a good bodge to re-build), drilled out the rivets holding the inner skin in place to gain about a hands worth of access the the lock. Then you have to smash the lock to pieces (drill/ hammer/ chisel/ dremel all help with this), releasing the door and allowing you to fit the new door mechanism you bought...
Or a garage will charge about 2 hours labour + parts to sort it for you.
[url= http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1542461 ]re solder references[/url]
[url= http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=847050 ]more info[/url]
[url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Rear-Left-Door-Lock-Mechanism-Actuator-For-GOLF-MK4-PASSAT-B5-UQ03-/281118389369?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3APassat&hash=item4173f63479 ]lock mechanism[/url]
As above. Solder cracking fault.
Don't get caught out by leaving it until it won't open at all. It's an absolute bitch to get the inside door trim off and then the window "plate" / inner door skin off, with the door "locked" shut. The lock is bolted from the door shut, so it has to be hammered out. Royal pain in the arse.
It's also an MOT failure.
I speak from experience in leaving it until it won't open.