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Im back in the house I lived in 10 years ago, old terrace. When I first did it up I took out the old fireplace which was electric and covered the gap up the chimney.
now I’m redoing it again and fancy a wood burner, is there a way to tell if the chimney can take a burner, or is it a job for a professional?
If you aren't sure, best get a HETAS qualified person to view and advise, for your own and others safety.
If you get a HETAS fitter out, 90% will tell you that you need a liner. Even if you don't.
It is possible that you do due to the age and condition of the chimney.
If you want to make a very quick and cheap check, get some smoke pellets, burn a couple of sheets of newspaper in the fireplace to get an up draught and then put a smoke pellet in. The smoke will escape through any faults in the brickwork.
There are so many horror stories out there of bad HETAS fitters I would avoid personally.
If you don't want to do it yourself, get a chimney sweep out, it will need sweeping anyway and lot will inspect and test for you as well.
Possibly but as it's a[n old] terrace - so you may not be able to test for leaks next door - you really shouldn't take any risks and it should be lined.
Cheers everyone. What are the rough coatings of lining?
A chimney built 60 odd years ago or more will almost certainly leak smoke.
It may not be immediately apparent, and it may not do it all the time. If it's detached then fill yer boots and take the chance without relining.
In a terrace, doing that would be quite unfair to your neighbours.
Depends on quality of liner and whether you do it yourself or get it done for you. If you get someone else to do the stove install (inc liner and registry plate) I think you're looking at about £1000.
Gobuchul's described test is just a draw test. In most cases any leaks will suck air in to the chimney not out, so it won't show a leak. To test for that you fill the flue with smoke, then cover the top with a bag or such like, and then go looking for leaks once you've blocked the top.
If the house was built before sometime in the 60s the flue could well be just brick and getting a bit leaky. In the 60s the regs changed and some sort of lining was then needed, tile or clay or... It may still be leaky by now.
We've had two chimneys lined. The first was about 20 years ago and had lightweight concrete filling the chimney with a heavy duty "sausage" forming the flue. Can't remember the exact cost but it was around £300.
We had the chimney in our current house done about 5 years ago, this time with a stainless steel liner as the old stone chimney was quite big so the concrete method would have taken a large amount of material. The cost was about £1000 including registry plate and fitting to stove.
I did liner exercise about 2 years ago. 3 choices, 316/316, 316/904, 904/904. 316 is cheapest liner and for wood burning only, 904 highest quality most expensive and for burning multifuels, coal, anthracite, wood etc. some people will say to install 904 and have done with it, 316 may require replacing in 10 yrs or so, false economy etc. your call I guess. idea of prices here
https://www.flexifluedirect.com/index.php?cPath=22&osCsid=b641fb3674cb3d71798b36909311de1e
At the chimney end you'll need something like a top plate, insert, clamp, chimney pot and cowl. Someone to remove the old chimney and cement and drop in the new liner, cement in the top plate, chimney pot etc. also if DiY-ing a nose cone to attach a cord to pull the liner thru from below.
only other thing is the diameter of the liner 5", 6" or 7". afaia terrace house size stoves will have a 5" or 6" outlet. you can go wider as you go up the chimney, but not narrower, so you can fit a 5" outlet stove onto a 6" liner, but not the other way round. biggest issue in decision might be if there are any restriction points in your chimney ie dog leg /offset usually at an old bricked-off bedroom fireplace. Basically shining a torch up and down the chimney to determine what diameter will fit, which may also determine what stove you can go for.