[Closed] Budget petrol chainsaw recommendations

Echo?

Although not entirely sure how much they are as there is one of them at work that I have used on occasions. It feels lighter than the Stihl's, but as with all these tools, keep the chain tickled and sharp and they cut.

As with any/all petrol 2-stroke and 4-stroke's, clean fresh fuel is the answer to trouble free starting and running, budget or otherwise. Always drain after use if you're unlikely to use again within a month and refill with fresh petrol, and oil for the 2-stroke.

Why not hire one when you need one?

Mitox are well regarded, but domestic husqvarna and stihl are the safest bet.
And of course, don't skimp on the PPE. Englebert Strauss do affordable trousers.

NO offence but if you dont know enough about chainsaws that you need to ask its probably better to not get one.

a chainsaw to some "bushes" ...that is like using an angle grinder to cut your cheese.

Be safe I hate using mine fearomse things

Once got smacked in the head by kick back - even with a helmet on that bloody hurt

A hedge trimmer can still kill you if you don't know how to use it properly or not treat it with respect.

An incorrectly used chainsaw will kick back. There are some very good crosscut training courses available. Which will reduce the fear level, considerably and did for me.

Pretty sure the domestic user can't hire anymore, too much scope for limb choppage.

Would be better buying a good one s/h than a cheap one new. Stihl, Husky or Echo are 3 very reputable brands. I bought a s/h Stihl 011AV a fair few years ago from Friday (IIRC). The chap had bought it to chop a few Leylandii down. It had a new bar, chain and and engine. He'd forgotten it was 2S. 100 of you English pounds. Since replaced and sold on for the same sum 10 years later but the newer stuff is nowhere near as good.

It will be said, training, PPE and a great deal of caution are very important when it comes to chainsaws.

Angle grinders, stihl saws, chainsaws and table saws all scare the bejeezus out of me.

Always Stihl for me - can't remember the model designation but I got the second from cheapest a good few years ago and it's been faultless. As above, always drain and use fresh fuel, and keep the chain sharp and lubed. If you are not familiar with how to use one then a course is a very good idea. It was quite funny, when I was buying one the guy shop insisted on showing me how the hand guard brake worked bu had it the wrong way around...

Ryobi, 35 cc with a 14" bar is ideal and can cope with small trees. Chainsaws are dangerous when you get distracted or careless. If you follow the rules and keep your mind on what you are doing, you'll be fine. But a basic course wouldn't be a bad idea if you're inexperienced.

If you're buying a chainsaw and plan to store and season the wood, the next most important tool is a good splitting mawl with a wood, not plastic, handle.

Stihl MS170.
I paid £160, the cheapest alternative was £100 at Screwfix iirc, but that will be worth next to nothing when you come to sell or get spares parts for it, the Stihl will always be worth over £100, and you can get parts easily.

is it a toy for the lad?
let him pick his own 😉

He's still getting used to the hammer drill.

One that comes with free limb replacement ?

I would go for a good quality bow saw, you'll find it not significantly slower than a chansaw for tidying small branches and bushes!

Chainsaws still available to hire from the local independent tool hire co

If "tidying trees" involves anything above shoulder height I would strongly recommend not using a chainsaw. Pruning saw with a long pole is very versatile and effective.

A fairly new chainsawerist here. Honestly, get someone to do it.

I did a fair bit of work, cut back heaps of big stuff, but constantly in a state of panic after watching vids of mishaps while "learning" how to use it. I bought a second hand McCulloch which had barely been used. Easy to start, worked like a charm. Kept checking tension, bar oil, etc. Still managed to break a chain. Not a fun thing to do.

If you're ok using one just hire a decent one. If not, just get a dude to come and do it. The bonus of that is they *usually* are able to take away what they cut down. That's also a massive pain to do I found. I've cut all I need to do and although I'd use it again, I'd feel safer and happier getting stuff done by someone who knows what they're doing it.

Don't scrimp on safety equipment either.

My mate who's a landscape gardener /tree surgeon uses a Stihl chainsaw as his day to day chainsaw of choice. .. Couldn't tell you what model it is but it's quite compact and seems to cope with most things.

^as above safety is paramount.. My mate won't use it without his helmet and special trousers that have kevlar pads and inserts incase a lapse of concentration causes a kick back.

There is a skill to using them and they shouldn't be used as a casual saw unless you don't mind loosing and arm or leg.

@aphex how the bloody bollocky hell did you break a chain? Was it the cheap OE one or a nail in the wood? I'm not the most prolific chainsawerist (we all know who that is on here) but I've 'processed' a lot of wood and never managed to break a chain.

Oh and have a free LOL and added PMSL for 'dude' in this (well any) context 😀

One of my childhood memories is my dad and the next door neighbour cutting down a cherry Tree in the front garden.. There were no injuries but they snapped a few chains.. Some woods are much more dense than others and if you throw in the possibility of hidden of hidden broken nails and such.. There's lots of issues to consider..

For anything remotely bushy I'd neither use a bow saw nor a chainsaw. Get yourself a Bahco Laplander pruning saw. I've had some really nasty cuts with a bow saw bouncing whilst sawing. I prime back a lot trees overhanging paths and our driveway. A really sharp pruning saw is much quicker and safer than a chainsaw.

Boblo, I've had a saw chain snap on me. We were working in a plantation where kids may have been hammering nails into the trees. The chain simply shot out of the saw. I'd only just told my brother never to stand anywhere in the line of fire. 😯

I got a Chinese husqavana knock off dangerous and blew up in a year bar and chain made of cheese buy a stihl you got it for life or hire.

I've used Sthil currently use Husqavana and not much difference in them. The only time I ever do notice a difference is when having to cut something in the water this iswhere the Stihl was better.

But as others have mentioned use a pruning saw if you are only going to use it now and again. You be surprised what you can cut through with one.

I'm looking for similar so was hoping for some good suggestions on this thread. The 35cc Ryobi gets terrible Amazon reviews.

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i dont understand why an occasional garden user wants a 2 stroke saw.

surely every time they go to use it having left it with fuel mix in for months since last use - it will need sorting out.

just buy an electric one and itll do whats needed. works for me , my hedge cutters a stihl 2 stroke - it doesnt like being left the 6 months between cuts on the hedge

my electric chainsaw doesnt mind the year between processing logs.....

but as above - for your use id not bother.

[url= http://www.sam-turner.co.uk/garden_machinery/mcculloch-cs-360t-chainsaw.html?sel=24211&fo_c=603&fo_k=cc4e20703de3e08332b0853bec6c51ba&fo_s=gplauk&gclid=Cj0KEQiA_MK0BRDQsf_bsZS-_OIBEiQADPf--p9ivcgSjmbJ_8V3bP6mGudBNmD4ArosK-VY7ISnklkaAu4q8P8HAQ#.VpGLmbaLTs0 ]McCulloch[/url]

I agree with what Mcmoonter says. Recently I cut back a very wide, 40m long, laurel hedge using only a pruning saw. Took approx 6 foot off the width. Was not much slower than using a small chainsaw but was far more enjoyable due to not having to wear PPE (bulky and sweaty!), dealing with a noisy engine and it's fumes etc. Also the up keep is minimal and no fuel to buy, mix then store and use before it goes 'off'. I'm coming from a head gardener's perspective with access to most machinery and i would choose a good pruning saw over a chainsaw to do what you've outlined. Here's the one I've got - http://www.niwaki.com/store/bakuma-hunter/

G

I use one of these:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00142K2A6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Thought about buying a chainsaw but using a hand saw is more fun.

You can also use it to safely cut at any height and not have to worry about going too low

Edit - this looks good too

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-4212146T-Pruning-360mm-inch/dp/B0001IX70G/ref=sr_1_20?s=outdoors&ie=UTF8&qid=1452381241&sr=1-20&keywords=Garden+saw

Silky pruning saw will tackle stuff upto the thickness of your leg.

A cheapy should survive a one off garden blitz.
Something established with parts supply for the longer term.

We predominantly run Husqvarna at work, with a big Stihl for trundling through big lumps. Very much Husqy fans, the Stihl came cheap for a big saw (32" Bar).

You'll be amazed what can break, chains, nose sprockets, anti-vibe mounts, drive sprockets, chain brake, handle and I am forever losing exhaust bolts. Saw the last one drop onto the chain and disappear off into the woods.

Pretty safe if you know what you're doing, but majority of chainsaw accident stats come from home users and cowboys*.

*General industry opinion, may or may not be factually correct.

But what about my 30ft Norwegian pine?? That's the real issue

aBut what about my 30ft Norwegian pine?? That's the real issue

Don't go felling something as your first project with a chainsaw. Call a pro, there may even be one on here near you.

[quote=Pook ]But what about my 30ft Norwegian pine?? That's the real issue

PLease say it less than 30 ft from your house and please film your attempt

Real 30' or pub 30'?

I was going to go up it and take it down branch by branch

Off at the ankles is generally safer.

PLease say it less than 30 ft from your house and please film your attempt

Pook - Member
I was going to go up it and take it down branch by branch

I was going to go up it and take it down branch by branch

Really not a good idea at all.

I'm not stupid. I'll take all necessary precautions. I'm not one for just bounding up all GTA style and wielding the thing about.

I fully intend to read up and apply a liberal dose of common sense.

But may go at it with a bow saw

I'm not stupid. I'll take all necessary precautions. I'm not one for just bounding up all GTA style and wielding the thing about.

using a chainsaw in a tree is not something to take litely - imsure you have the jist by now but seriously not something i would consider - and i have been present throughout the process many a time when i was younger as a tree surgeons mate summer job doing the processing and clean up.

I can never quite work out if these are elaborate trolls or you really are just going to watch a You tube video then climb a tree in your jeans and trainers and start cutting it down.

I'm not stupid. I'll take all necessary precautions. I'm not one for just bounding up all GTA style and wielding the thing about.

Fine. I'm in no way an expert, but I use a chain saw most weekends. I don't even lift it above my shoulders when it's going, and that's with both feet on the ground. I don't move without putting the break on. Maybe I'm overcautious, but I've still got 2 legs and 2 arms.

Good luck.

Slight hijack, sorry... 🙂
Roughly speaking, how often should I be changing the chain on my chainsaw? Or how do I know it needs changing?
I give it a light sharpen every tank of fuel so I'd spot any damage but it must have a wear limit..?

Roughly speaking, how often should I be changing the chain on my chainsaw? Or how do I know it needs changing?

Until you can't sharpen it anymore. Some chains have an engraved mark that shows the limit.

You'll know it's blunt when it stops gouging wood out in long clean chips and begins just producing sawdust.

I can never quite work out if these are elaborate trolls or you really are just going to watch a You tube video then climb a tree in your jeans and trainers and start cutting it down.

I like to keep you guessing junky, but it's nice that you're thinking about me

You'll know it's blunt when it stops gouging wood out in long clean chips and begins just producing sawdust.

Yep what he said.

If you want to do it yourself with a bow-saw, perhaps the safest way is:

1 tie a rope to the branch
2 climb tree and cut branch - but not completely (you'll learn to judge how much...)
3 climb down off tree, pull rope to break branch
(3b climb back up to complete the cut if necessary)

repeat for all branches...

If you want to use a chainsaw, it's easier:

1 phone up a tree surgeon
2 sit back and watch

30ft is not all that huge, if you've got patience and common sense it should be ok. But still, not with a chainsaw unless you've got space to fell it in one (ie, there's nothing that matters within range of the tree).

PeterPoddy - Some chains have guide markers, you can normally go a few mm beyond them. The end for us is normally when the tooth gets stuck between the guide and file during sharpening or we start losing teeth. Rakers are normally filed away entirely by this point.

I love watching people with a blunt saw they start moving the chainsaw backwards and forwards hoping it will saw through the timber 😀

You'll know it's blunt when it stops gouging wood out in long clean chips and begins just producing sawdust.
Yep what he said.

It might be what he said but neither of you read my question did you? So you're both wrong! 🙂

Timber, thanks I'll look for the marker but from your description I've got a long way to go yet. Cheers!

I can never quite work out if these are elaborate trolls or you really are just going to watch a You tube video then climb a tree in your jeans and trainers and start cutting it down.

Don't be silly! Jeans and trainers are far too casual, blazer and tie at least 🙂

Everyone has their own tolerance of risk and whilst using a chainsaw can have a high penalty if it goes wrong, it's not inherently dangerous otherwise they'd be more difficult to get hold of.

A new user can reduce risk by training. Either formal or from someone who knows the game, wearing appropriate gear and being bloody cautious. Even one of those lopper saw things could result in an injury. The thing could cut you or the lopped branch land on yer noggin.

I'm not keen on cutting in the air but sometimes it has to be done. The main thing I find is to undercut the bough a bit (25-30%) before cutting from above to avoid pinching the chain. I've no idea if this is the 'approved' way but it seems to work......... so far (for about 20 years so far) 😉

"tolerance of risk"

Problem is I doubt that untrained people have much of a clue about the magnitude of the risk when using a chainsaw, nor how to reduce it. There are about as many chainsaw injuries per year in the USA as gun deaths. Which when you consider the limited use most people make of chainsaws, plus the fact that many gun deaths are actually deliberate shootings, makes chainsaw seem pretty dangerous to me!

Watched some RHS tree surgeons once who said they hardly ever use chainsaws up trees, preferred to use a good quality hand saw, Silky I think but other brands are available. Almost as quick and a lot easier to handle.

". Even one of those lopper saw things could result in an injury. The thing could cut you or the lopped branch land on yer noggin."

A cut from a lopper saw or a branch landing on your noggin is much less severe than a chainsaw cut.

think skin grafts....... and if it hits bone your talking one leg shorter than the other due to the thickness of the cut.

ive seen it done , but it was a small chainsaw - the saw and the operator were tied off seperately with the saw on a longer rope than the operator and the item being cut was tied to the land rover..... it was not done out of preferance but the fact it was a large limb being removed.

Peter - not all chains have the markers, so you may be a long time looking (unless it's Oregon 73). The file/guide snag is a pretty good indicator of having got your moneys worth.

Stevenmenmuir - other brands are available, but they aren't half as good 😉

Unexpected small branch hitting chainsaw helmet seems like a massive bough at point of impact, you will crap yourself and struggle to find something big enough laying nearby to justify the shock you had. The first time anyway.

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[url= http://s90.photobucket.com/user/Chris_Maloney/media/Mobile%20Uploads/VIDEO0285_zpsxvsrnpuz.mp4.html ]Timber!!! (+ weird freaky growl)[/url]

Well done!

How long were you stranded at the top before Mrs Pook took your picture?

Good effort, awaits the felling video of the stump.

It'll be down during the night 🙂
Good work OP.

oh it's down already! Now i have the weird issue of trying to work out what the hell the growl at 21 seconds is.....

Fair play!