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My wife's Hyundai i10 has developed a very high pitched but intermittent squealing noise from the back nearside wheel. The noise stops when the brakes are applied, indicating it's something to do with the pads etc, although it's not there all the time anyway. This evening when I got home in it I smelled burning, and upon investigating the whole wheel is virtually too hot to touch, the wheelnuts are certainly roasting hot. It's been in to a garage recently, and they said it wasn't doing it on their test-drive, but suggested changing the tyre due to 'stepping', although in fairness the mechanic didn't sound very reassuring or certain. Obviously I can take it into Hyundai this week but they tend to help themselves to my wallet, so I'm wondering what the stw collective may be able to suggest. If it's as easy as new pads I could probably do that, but as it's brakes I'm tempted to get the experts on it. Any suggestions?
Any high street tyre / exhaust / brake place will sort you out. The brake callipers need servicing so the pads retrace properly rather than dragging in the disk. Shouldn’t be expensive unless things are really cooked.
nearer the better really so you’re not driving further with them overheating than you need to. Stop frequenting and let things cool if you’ve far to go.
Probably a collapsed wheel bearing by the heat issues?
Don't think new pads will solve the problem.
Happened to me few years back.
Two possibilities:
1. Parking brake is stuck or seized, or
2. You have a seized brake caliper.
Try to drive to see if you release the accelerator to see if the car slow down without braking because that's an indication of one of the above two conditions.
When my parking brake was sized I could smell burning while driving and the car then to slow down the moment I released the accelerator.
Sized brake caliper for me was just the caliper not moving at all i.e. it retracted but just stayed there without a bite on the disc.
Recently I have a seized brake caliper and the garage just told me to replace it. Think it was £35 or something for a old 15 yr old Toyota Corolla.
I don't think it is terminal for your i10 and the parts might be cheaper plus easier to service.
Caliper seized on, especially if it's a caliper with a rubber protective boot on the piston itself - water gets in its trapped and causes the piston to corrode which then sticks 'out' resulting in the heat build up in the wheel.
Replacement caliper from ECP / GSF / Brakes international (Rochdale) and a set of pads. Clamp the hose and swop the caliper over.
I had to replace 2 rear calipers on my Skoda. £35 per caliper.
Old ones had failed, 1 had a faulty handbrake, the other a binding piston which overheated and smoked.
I replaced discs and pads at the same time plus replaced the brake fluid, firstly by removing and replacing the stuff in the reservoir with a syringe.
The handbrake now works and they don't bind.
I should have fixed it earlier in the year.
Semi stuck pad. Maybe caliper Maybe stuck in the slider.
Also had cheap pads with a shut composite mix in the pad make up.
Almost certainly seized brake caliper. Recently had the same on my Mondeo, cooked the discs and pads. Total parts bill was £450, where are you finding calipers for £35? Cheapest I could get that were in stock £125 each.
Don't drive it far until it's correctly diagnosed as I found out.
Sorry my mistake.
I just checked the repair bill which is £82 (with VAT £98) for one caliper only ... aarrgghhhh
Look like this.
cooked the discs and pads
Yes, it actually cooked my disc so ended up changing that too.
where are you finding calipers for £35?
Bought them from an eBay store. For a 2008 Skoda so they seemed to be the same rear calipers that most of the cheap VW range cars used at the time and are still produced.
Yeah, but they will only last 20,000miles. Then the seals will all fail, they sliders will stick causing brake rub and increase pad wear.
As long as you accept a ditt cheap aftermarket caliper built to a price point becoming a service item thats fine.
Vw oe probably last 100,000 plus but cost 5x the price, so its down to agro v longevity
Vw oe probably last 100,000 plus but cost 5x the price, so its down to agro v longevity
Is the right answer, except there's also an issue of not being able to find £100 for a repair bill, let alone £400. It's "false economy" but is a reality for many right now. 35% of adults struggle to find another £20 a month
If you can be arsed, a lot of calipers are relatively easy to rebuild. Seizing on single pot (guessing that's what the rears are) is often caused by crap in the slider pis. You usually need to take these off when you replace pads or discs anyways. If you're relatively mechanically competent(Ie you can change pads), take them both out, clean up with IPA and some very fine emery of absolutely necessary, clean up the caliper mounts, thin film of grease, and refit. If that doesn't work, try replacing them, and if that doesn't work, it's not too hard to rebuild a caliper. Once it's off the car it's usually a case of unwinding the piston, removing the dust seal, removing the fluid seal, replacing piston if necessary, then the reverse, followed by a brake bleed.
It could also be handbrake mech/cable if it's a cable, that's a bit more of a pain imo!
Vw oe probably last 100,000 plus
They bloody don't! They standard rears on Golf/Leon and probably quite a few other models are definitely prone to seizing up.
Hmm
200,000 miles on Passats that i owned and maintained myself gives a different answer.
However, mine were older so might be built better, or different manufacturer or no silly electrical handbrake mechanism that are known to fail.
Yeah, but they will only last 20,000miles. Then the seals will all fail, they sliders will stick causing brake rub and increase pad wear.
Swapped both calipers on the back of my FiLs Fabia about 12-13 years ago, about 80 quid (800 sek) the pair. (Discs, Pads, bleed.)
Probably the only remaining bit of the braking system that hadn't been replaced again buy the time COVID hit.
(The whole rear end braking system plus wheel bearings needed replacing after the car got parked up on a slope for 6 months when COVID hit.)
I reckon it was value for money, considering they did 10 or 11 swedish winters. and about 150000 km.
(The originals did 60000km and 3 years before they seized.)