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Old type worcester 28i from 2000, still runs great, can stil get spares, passes gas safety every time all good.
One thing I want to do is fit a digital timer.
I have acquired a digital timer from the old 28CDi.
The 28i mech timer has three wires that go into choccy box screw terminals on the board.
The 28cdi timer has three wires that terminate into a connector on the end of the flex.
I am thinking that I can cut and strip the ends and just wire them into the choccy box terminals?
q1) Will it work?
q2) The board has guidance as to live, switchedlive, earth for the three wires, the current wires are all the same colour!
I don't know which they are on the new timer, they are coloured green red blue. I am thinking earth green, switched live blue and live red..
Unlikely to be green = earth.
You need a neutral to power the clock. I'd be taking an educated guess at Red -Live, Blue - Neutral, Green - Switched live.
It is pretty easy to set up a test rig to check, you'll need a main plug and some flex, along with a voltmeter and some connectors.
Buzz the wires out to work out which it which
get a wireless prog room stat and connect it into the stat terminals in the boiler.
Leave the mechanical timer in place and just set it to permanently on, let room stat deal with time and temp.
I'm with Bear on this. I'm also a GasSafe heating engineer (amongst other things). For the cost of a cheap RF thermostat & programmer I'd be just leaving the boiler as is with the timer always on and then wiring in the programmer to the wall mounted wiring centre.
Also, something at the back of my mind is telling me that the timer you've acquired plugs into a 24v port on the boiler. Mains electricity might fry it.
I'm curious why go to the hassle of a timer at the boiler and not go for a wireless RF stat. That would be the logical step . Moving from a mechanical timer to a digital timer seems a pointless waste of effort unless your mechanicals broken
mech timer is broken, thats the point.
I assume you can turn it on with the time though, or just link it out so it is permanently on, then use programmable room thermostat.
No it doesn't work, not sure why. According to wiring diagram you can put a link in and then just use an external stat as you suggest.
The comment about 24v is what I was concerned about with using the CDI programmer..
So which wirelass stat then?
Depends how much you want to spend. Pretty happy with out Nest. The sensing when you are out thing is very good and saves us a few quid a year. There are plenty of more basic models if you don't want a smart one, though
no happy with something basic, just want reliability. TBH thats why I wanted to bodge the worcester digi timer, their stuff seems to last a very long time.
I ran a 35 quid salus rt500 for years happily.
Just moved to an rt510 after a refit because the receiver unit on the rt500 got damaged during building work.
Cheers trail rat, that looks like a great solution.
https://www.plumbarena.co.uk/product/salus-rt510bc-wireless-programmable-thermostat/