Attaching haribacke...
 

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[Closed] Attaching haribacker onto a new plasterboard.

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It's been a long day, and a quick google has been mixed in results.

My lazy-arsed plumber, decided when not under supervision ,that he'd changed his mind about chasing in shower feeds, and instead wall-mounted them, with instructions to to double board the wall instead.

(I am so retraining as a plumber should a redundancy package come along).

(Crap photo, sorry, and not sure what insight it will offer)

[IMG] [/IMG]

The first level of silver-line board has gone up, but I'm chuffing loathed (and I won't) reboard again, losing much needed space, so I'm just going to double board the width of the bath (he's chased out the other wall).

However, I'm thinking waterproofness, and not sure what to do next.

I was thinking of some 'tanking' business, over everything.

Then installing hardibacker onto the area that needs 'lifting out' to accommodate the slightly exposed plumbing, and bath gap now he's chased the opposing walls.

Then, the 'lip' will be hidden by the shower screen (apart from any area above shower screen of course)

Can I just use normal bonding to attach the hardibacker to the plaster? Seems wrong to just screw on.I was all geared up for attached HB to the floor using adhesive/schrws, but not sure what to do in order to attach it to plasterboard on a wall.

Any suggestions, from knowledgeable folk?!


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:15 pm
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My lazy-arsed plumber, decided when not under supervision ,that he'd changed his mind about chasing in shower feeds, and instead wall-mounted them, with instructions to to double board the wall instead.

So you asked him to chase the feeds, and he decided not to?

Not sure I would let that slide.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:18 pm
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Don't get me started, honestly.

1. The £110 retail boiler filter has gone missing
2. "Gippo's nicked the 50kg of lead pipe within a minute of me laying it outside, honest guv"
3. I then watched him loading the smashed up cast iron drain pipe into his van.

I took him on because he was an older guy (and therefore, stupidly I thought he would have some standards) and gave a 'sensible' quote.

He's since robbed me (witnesses to him shoving lead in his van) and he clearly thinks because I don't know about house renovation/plumbing, I'm stupid.

However, I need the job done first, and a freind who is helping my plaster/board had already received instructions and was well on way. Luckily I managed to stop things before a full double skin was fitted all along the wall, hence just the double skin now for width of bath.

When payment time comes, we will be having a conversation.

All quite depressing if I'm honest.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:26 pm
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Sorry to hear that. Too late to kick him off the job?


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:27 pm
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Personally I'd get rid now and be very explicit why. If you wait til the end and try and barter with him by knocking money off it can get very shitty very quickly because you will owe him a good amount of money. Plenty of honest tradesmen out there. Get one in ASAP.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:32 pm
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I so want to, the slipperly little eel makes my skin crawl knowing he's lied to me, robbed me, and pretends to care that he knows I'm up against it financially whilst shoving the lucrative metals into his van and lying to my face.

Oddly enough, he's left the asbestos pipe he dropped & smashed, on my driveway (which I need to ring the council about). Funnily enough, he doesn't want to take that.

Needs must though, I need a bathroom fitted sharpish.

Like I said though, it really is depressing. I just want to pay someone a fair amount, for doing a fair job.

I miss renting.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:33 pm
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Yossarain, I'm considering it, sadly. Would involve changing locks though, and probably court.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:41 pm
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Still no closer though about the OP!


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:41 pm
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Needs must though, I need a bathroom fitted sharpish.

I'd still kick him off. I know I speak as a backseat driver, but there is always another option.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:42 pm
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I actually am starting to agree; I've tried to just 'park it' as a life experience, but the more I think about how he's lied, essentially robbed me and then done the job the easiest way possible for him, despite saying he'd do it another way and losing about 2" of an already small bathroom, I'm actually thinking of changing the locks, and seeing the company in court if needs be.

FFS, I really don't want to do this, but I'm getting buggered aren't I? 🙁


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:54 pm
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Yup, kick him off, deduct whatever he's taken from what his work is worth (not what he bills).

I've done a bathroom but no idea what haribackrr is.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 8:54 pm
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I don't really follow what you're trying to do.

I'd help you out but I think you're too far away, Yorkshire?


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 9:01 pm
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Get rid. Last plumber I had stated exactly what "rubbish" he would and wouldn't take. Following reports of tradesmen choosing to take only the copper for example and likewise customers expecting asbestos lagging to be removed and yet the copper left. Either way he's deviated from your spec and if it's not written down that's his mistake as much as yours.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 9:07 pm
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As a fellow tradesman we dont want people like that upsetting the small amount of customers who are willing to pay in these financially awkward times, give him the elbow.

Ive been the second person to work in a house where the first guy stole or did a bad job, and its horrible,the customer doesnt trust you, and watches everything, questions everything, and makes life miserable for all.

Did i say get rid of him


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 9:07 pm
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Those are just normal silver backed plasterboards along the left. They are untreated.

For the width of the bath (ish) I need to add another layer of board, to cover the pipes, but also provide depth to sit the bath into the opposing wall which has been chased out.

That's it, really. I'm just not very good with words 😉


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 9:10 pm
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Get shot of him, sounds like a plonker. The sort I don't like dealing with at work.

If you have a spare half hour tomorrow pop to your local plumbers merchant and see if they can recommend anyone. They'll usually know who's busy and who isn't and they're not likely to pass on details of people like the chap you have now.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 9:16 pm
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Ok, firstly, why are you using foil backed boards and how did you fix them?

Secondly, I can't see any pipes on the back wall, so assuming they're not there yet. Why can't you just Chanel out the wall for the pipes? I'm assuming 15's? Fill over with bonding or drywall adhesive, them tank the whole area. Are these walls being tiled? If so, there's absolutely no need to skim them


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 9:16 pm
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Ok, firstly, why are you using foil backed boards and how did you fix them?

Forgive any ignorance, but because they are being used in a moisture potential room? Fixed with normal bonding adhesive.

Why can't you just Chanel out the wall for the pipes?

That's what I was expecting to happen, but when I rocked up today, pipes has been fitted to the wall, and I was fobbed off. It;s easy to get baffled by BS when you don't know what you're talking about, but after a few hours, you started to suspect you've been had.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 9:28 pm
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I think if I am understanding you correctly , the new plan is to overboard and tile up to a line on the wall where a shower screen will be fitted? As opposed to continuing tiling past shower screen and it being fitted on top of tiles as per a normal job.

From what I can see from the photo would I be inclined to bring hardibacker out past the bath, tile and fit shower screen on top of tiles, you will obviously have a return back to the wall, the alternative is to double board the wall as has been suggested.

The distance between the tiles at each end of the bath is dictated by the length of the bath, so I can see why the plumber has not chased the pipes in as you need to close the distance anyway it serves no purpose.

With regards nicking lead, he a plumber 99 out of a 100 are **nkers based on 20 years of this sort of work so not at all surprised.


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 9:32 pm
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That's what I was afraid of....I

Foil backed boards are designed to cope with a small amount of dampness or vapour, penetrating in from behind, i.e. a solid wall etc, not for bathrooms. That in itself is not an issue in your case, what is a problem is the drywall adhesive. It doesn't stick to the boards very well at all and they need to be screw fixed to battens ideally. If you tile them, they'll probably break loose, I certainly wouldn't tile them personally.

As for the pipes, just chase them in


 
Posted : 07/03/2014 9:39 pm
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Chuffing sleepless night over this. Don't know whether to pull it down. That plumber really is a thoughtless cock.


 
Posted : 08/03/2014 6:26 am
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Don't use plasterboard of any description for the second layer. Use 'Marmox' multi-board or similar.

Here:

[url= http://www.marmox.co.uk/products/marmox-waterproof-insulation-board ]Marmox[/url]

Hth

Marko


 
Posted : 08/03/2014 6:49 am
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The distance between the tiles at each end of the bath is dictated by the length of the bath, so I can see why the plumber has not chased the pipes in as you need to close the distance anyway it serves no purpose.

Ahhhh, penny's dropped with that. So essentially, there's no point in any of the other plasteboard, other than for where the bath is going, other than for the sake of preventing a lip (which I'm not bothered about as the space is much needed in foreground of pic).

Right can I then:

Rip out plasteboard, up until a 'safe' distance from bath.

Put 'tanking' or sealant whatever over the platseboard.

Then put Marmox/Hardibacker over plasterboard using adhesive?

(FM thanks, but battens out of question - anything better than bonding?)


 
Posted : 08/03/2014 7:25 am
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Why are we tanking walls that are going to be tiled? It seems the latest done thing for some reason. I'd just use an mr board then a proper waterproof tile/adhesive/grout combo.
Also re the lead, that's probably 50 quids worth and I'd be deducting it no messing!


 
Posted : 08/03/2014 8:08 am
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I don't know, just what I keep hearing.

Better pic.

You can see that boarding full length of room was daft, so I'm going to take down everything up to about 6" away from bath.

a) How do I seal the edge of board that will be left and

b) Can I adhesive the cement board over the remaining board (i.e then covering remaining pipes).

Thanks, and I feel like such a needy arse, but genuinely stuck for people to ask.

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Posted : 08/03/2014 8:53 am
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Get rid, we had an extension built a bit ago and had a similar experience with a plumber fitting two en suits, was a total pita to re-do his cock ups, but it's better doing it right first time than letting him finish and not being happy with the results..


 
Posted : 08/03/2014 8:59 am

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