Are there any locks...
 

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[Closed] Are there any locksmiths or door lock expert in here?

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I have an issue with my front door. I replaced the cylinder late last year with the same size as what came out. But since then (may be a coincidence) The lock is sticking and making it a 'mare to open. It's a Yale multipoint hook system on a wooden door.

The weird thing is though, if the door is open and the latch bolt is retained (there's a catch to do this), the hooks move freely with the handle. But as soon as the latch is released the locking mechanism starts to need some oomph to move the hooks.

Could it be the gearbox is knackered? Or could it be something else?


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 9:17 am
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Assuming it's a euro cylinder, have you over tightened the fixing screw?
That can be enough to distort the cylinder body and jam up the mechanism.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 10:36 am
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I've just taken the cylinder out to see if it is the issue and it still does it.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 11:06 am
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The cylinder is hard to turn out of the door?


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 11:11 am
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Probably one the strike plates that needs adjusting due to the wood of the door and frame expanding and contracting at different rates.

Look on the hooks for wear marks. The one that is most worn will be the one that need adjusting.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 11:16 am
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Sorry, the cylinder is fine.

I took the euro cylinder out of the door to see how the mechanism would engage without it in.

The mechanism is still needing a good push on the handle to open.

Edit*

It does it when the door is open too, as I thought it may be the strike plates.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 11:19 am
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Sorry, but it sounds like the mechanism is a bit fuggered.

Why did you change the cylinder in the first place?


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 11:23 am
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Spray the multi point hooks with gt85/wd40/silicon polish or something like that?


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 11:27 am
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Why did you change the cylinder in the first place?

We bought the house last year, so out of precaution. God knows who may have had a copy of the original keys.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 11:27 am
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As above, try some lube all over, I've fitted plenty of traditional locks but not much experience of multi-points.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 11:36 am
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Moved house in November, multilock front door mechanism was sticking really badly, silicon spray completely fixed the problem. Apparently this is a common issue with a really simple remedy.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 5:12 pm
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Put ear next to door and slowly operate the handle to eject the claws and listen for any scrapping, also put finger just below claw and feel for any scrapping vibration.

Sometimes the claws get slightly bent when the door slams shut when claws are extended.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 6:05 pm
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Did you just take out the barrel? If you touched any of the screws holding the long faceplate in then you may have overtightened the screws causing the sliding plate behind to rub in the rebate. Handle overtightened/ misaligned possible too. I would start slackening off screws (inc handle) until the bolt throw works normally to find where the problem is.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 8:02 pm
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Cheers for the suggestions. I'll investigate further.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 8:12 pm
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After some silicone spray on the upper latch we have freedom!!! Guess it was dry as owt.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 9:00 pm
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I had a similar problem recently with a euro cylinder ( Yale ) and I wrote to them and they replaced it free of charge. Didn't have the receipt but had something on bank statement from B&Q . They're really helpful and even gave me a £20 cheque to cover the cost of the spare keys I got cut. Great aftercare.


 
Posted : 25/02/2016 9:28 pm
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Probably a bit late to the party but I'm a locksmith.
GT85 and WD40 will only mask the problem for so long.
I'll wager that the cast driver, the bit that the spindle bar in the handle goes through in the gearbox, is cracked.
I'd say 85% of my multipoint lock problems will be found here.
A new gearbox with be the only thing that fixes it properly.
What normally happens is people will force the handle to engage putting more pressure on the already cracked driver, then it shatters into 3-4-5 pieces and jams the locking mechanism lower down causing more work just to get the door open. What should be a 20 minute job can then turn into a 2 hour job.
Let us know how you get on.


 
Posted : 26/02/2016 8:04 am
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It sounds like it might be worth pulling the mechanism out when you have a chance.

If you do, as above from Chickenman, just be careful to align the parts and mindful of not over tightening screws.


 
Posted : 26/02/2016 12:54 pm
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I think flatfish may be right as..... It's playing silly beggars again. Going to double check the model tomorrow and order a new gearbox.


 
Posted : 27/02/2016 9:05 pm
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What was the outcome?


 
Posted : 25/03/2016 8:56 pm

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