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I haven't had an adze for years but i can see why you might want one. I like a hammer although with modern curved tools they're a pain to use. Ive got two hammers on current axes
Ok, useful.
On the one hand I don't want to waste fifty quid. On the other hand I imagine that faced with a need to cut a wee ledge to rest my calves half way up a pitch £500 would seem like a bargain.
Ditto placing warthogs etc.
The obvious answer is probably to not buy a totally unsuited tech ice tool like a Nomic for bimbly climbing..,.. ho hum
Hmmm
The obvious answer is probably to not buy a totally unsuited tech ice tool like a Nomic for bimbly climbing..,.. ho hum
Have you already bought the Nomics? I had Petzl Quarks for years, loved them and never felt like it was the tools that were holding me back on harder stuff. They come with a proper adze and hammer. I only got rid of mine because they were an older version and you couldn't get picks anymore.
Nomics and similar tools are lovely to climb with and I'm sure you'll enjoy them but they really only come into their own at VI and above I think. Below that grade the lack of hammer/adze, extreme curve and poor plunging performance feels like too much of a compromise.
Crampons are the same, the more technical designs are poor on less technical ground. I've got G12s and G20+ and the former are way nicer to use up to IV and far more secure on the descent.
First 3 are Lapland Buttress on Sgurr na Lapaich. The others are Temptress on Ben Wyvis.
Not a lot of snow about in the NW but more in the gorms.
Have you already bought the Nomics? I had Petzl Quarks for years, loved them and never felt like it was the tools that were holding me back on harder stuff.
Yes, bought them. But still unused, so could send them back...
They totally aren't holding me back in winter. My lack of balls/ talent holds me back. But they were useless dry tooling and I want to do more DT to get more confidence. So figured I should buy them.
Nomics and similar tools are lovely to climb with and I’m sure you’ll enjoy them but they really only come into their own at VI and above I think. Below that grade the lack of hammer/adze, extreme curve and poor plunging performance feels like too much of a compromise.
Mmm yep. I'll give them a try and see what they're like. I imagine they're horrible on easy stuff
I fully get that I'm being a total gear freak here. But if I don't it'll just get wasted on bathrooms pension or something...
Please do keep posting.
I have some pics from eldest_oab at the weekend out in Coire an t-Sneachda on Saturday, just checking I can share them.
I’m just going to keep posting, maybe it will encourage others to get out! 😀
Please do, I love seeing this stuff!
I have some pics from eldest_oab at the weekend out in Coire an t-Sneachda on Saturday, just checking I can share them.
Look forward to seeing them.
I imagine they’re horrible on easy stuff
It depends what you mean by easy stuff. Easier mixed terrain they'll be fine. Easier snowy/ice/mountaineering they're less good.
Blimey 2 years since I started this and I've not had the axes out in anger since. Really need to sort it out this winter. If anyone's after a partner I'm keen. Maybe 29/30th December if conditions any good.
Today was a bit different to the last few weeks. I'm posting this in the interest of balance and so that everyone doesn’t think its always wall to wall sunshine up here...
We were back at the car by lunch time with rucksacks that weighed about twice what they did at the start.
I’m posting this in the interest of balance and so that everyone doesn’t think its always wall to wall sunshine up here…
Has anyone who's climbed in Scotland, in winter, thought that, ever? 😉
Picknicker on Quinag. Only just white enough but nobody was looking...
And a few from Beinn Bhan, not climbing that day, just taking photos, nothing was in nick anyway. Not great in the North-West right now.
Some great photos on here. I've done a fair bit of winter hillwalking in Wales and the Lakes and some summer climbing but hopefully booking onto a winter climbing course near Aviemore this coming Feb/March to learn some more technical skills.
Myself and a friend have ambitions to have a go at this before we are fifty:
https://www.alanarnette.com/climbs/alpamayo.php
Are we bonkers, or is it an achievable objective for when we are both 50 (in 5 years from now)?
Went to Maoile Lunndaidh yesterday. Despite the crag looking very white and icy the turf wasn't frozen so we had to abandon our plan A and escape up something easier. Amazing and remote place to climb, and we even rode our bikes!
Was meant to be going to Creag Meagaidh on Saturday but my pre-early start insomnia kicked in so had to call it off. Reports for m the weekend sound similar to above, so we didnt at least miss exceptional conditions. Hopefully make the trip in 2 weeks.
Yeah, Meagaidh didn’t sound great. Someone did The Wand but other reports were poor.
Long shot, but anyone looking for a climbing partner Friday -> Sunday 19-21 Jan?
Thinking of taking Friday off.
I'm a pretty mediocre ice climber, only done a few grade 4s, and nothing really for a long time. However I'm pretty mountain savvy and honest about my ability.
Long shot, but anyone looking for a climbing partner Friday -> Sunday 19-21 Jan?
Fingers crossed this cold spell lasts to next weekend. Pretty wild on Cairngorm today but plenty cold.
@thegeneralist have you found a partner? Friday's forecast is up and while it should still be cold enough its a bit of a stinker otherwise!
Indeed! Metcheck is forecasting gusts of 71 mph in Ambleside at the weekend!
And a chunk of snow as well most areas between here ( Manchester) and the Highlands.
Nope, my mate is free at the weekend but his dog is 14 and can't be left alone.
My previous climbing partner just does fell running these days ...
And the missus has decided winter climbing is too cold.
I may check out Blea Water Ghyll on Friday if I can summon the energy, but I doubt it will be solid enough for a solo mission.
Metcheck is forecasting gusts of 71 mph in Ambleside at the weekend!
I just looked at the met office and Friday is the best day! I think we're going to try to do a route on the crags below the Bealach na Ba provided the road is open. Its a day for something with a quick approach and descent. Actually it's probably a day for the pub but I'm on dry January! 😉
I sacked it for today. Just too much going on with roads/weather/avalanche risk.
Looks like that's things ****ed for a while, 6 degrees on the Bealach na Ba through the week.
Waheeeey
In before the floods!
Well chuffed. First proper winter climb in a decade I think...
Really enjoyed it.
Brown Cove on Helvellyn. Lots of spindrift but relatively sheltered from the gales.
Love the new axes.
Didn't see your post Generalist, what route is that? Looks good. Been pretty shit up here, we had a cold and breezy day on the rock at Logie Head today.
That looks awesome. Praps not your first choice for February, but still...
I think the pic is Stepped Buttress. Really fun grade 3
Had a brilliant day today funnily enough. Again, not exactly highland magic but great day scratching around some scabby peak quarry.
Did a couple of D6s and failed on a 7
I see the classic winter knee on that Brown Cove route!
Should we ask the mods to change this to a general climbing thread? Might get a few more folks contributing.
Nah. Just climbing with spikes.
But by all means we could have a rock thread too
Ey up.
Got the weekend free and possibly a couple of days holiday to extend it. Up till yesterday the forecast was looking epic but now not so much.
Was thinking of maybe some combination of the following, depending on weather/ partners...
SCnL for a few solos. Had a stunning weekend camped there 30 odd years ago and would like to do a few easy routes.
Aonach Eagach perhaps, if it gets back in.
Perhaps some touring with my shiny new touring setup. Assuming the Harscheisen arrive by Thursday.
Perhaps something on Aonach Mor. Sacrelidge to say but I might contemplate shunting some stuff if nothing else.
Would love another crack at Savage Slit if I can find a partner.
So, tell me what you reckon to the forecast.... Is Friday or Monday a better add-on?
Is the snow going to be iron hard neve for climbing, or dreamy powder for skiing?
Will SC gully be in nick?
And last bit not least, tell me if you need a partner.
PS: @spin since I know he has a life and probably won't se this until he logs in on Monday to post pictures of him on Dr Deaths's latest 9 🤩
Some great photos in this thread, thanks for taking the time to take them while in the mountains and also for posting them on here.
I've done a fair bit of good weather walking/hillwalking but only once in Winter, 1992. Went with 3 'experts' and we started on Ben Nevis. No issues. The next was to do Buchaille Etive Mor. We pakred and walked in and I knew then it wouldn't be plain sailing, 2 of the 3 'experts' were arguing over who should carry both the map and the guidebook...they didn't resolve it so we ended up going up the wrong part of the mountain and hit a bit of a snag that they couldn't get past. A feller climbing behind stopped and we had a quick chat. He laughed when I told him I'd made the mistake of doing my first proper winter climbing trip with 3 ####### idiots. He carried on passed us and pretty much skipped over the icy slab the 3 stooges couldn't get over. Apparently, it was a chap called Alan Hinkes...meant nothing to me at the time. Bottom line was that we had to abseil off into a gully. I'd never abseiled before. Then they got that rope stuck and used their 'old rope' that really should have been cut into 100 parts and binned....we got back to the car at 2130hrs....5 hrs of darkness. I didn't go with them again for the week but on the Friday, after having been out cycling, got back to find them already back and half cut. They were celebrating getting off a mountain in daylight...a first apparently. I stuck to mountainbiking after that.
Perhaps some touring with my shiny new touring setup. Assuming the Harscheisen arrive by Thursday.
I'd go even if they don't arrive, I've never felt the need of harscheisen much in Scotland.
It doesn't look like there's much difference between Monday and Friday and MWIS aren't forecasting much change.
PS: @spinsince I know he has a life and probably won’t se this until he logs in on Monday to post pictures of him on Dr Deaths’s latest 9
That must be some other Spin, 9s are way beyond my pay grade! My winter has actually fizzled out a bit. I'm really focused on getting out on the NW and it's been really poor there. My wife is away this weekend so I think I'm going to load up the van and disappear for three days bouldering and soloing. Coigach, Torridon, that sort of thing.
Can't help you with nick in Glen Coe, haven't been following what's happening there at all.
Have you tried Savage Slit before? It is good but the crux seems to be finding it with no one else on it!
Planning to be out on Sunday with a pal for something easy, possibly SCNL. Haven't climbed with him before so slightly loathe to extend an invite formally. If you're soloing in the area let me know.
Had a 3 day trip to Rjukan last weekend, but I don't think there's much of a season left there. Raining in a lot of sectors and everything with running water.
Seems the same story pretty much everywhere this year.
Winterhighland forecast not looking promising.
Glenmore Lodge have released a new skills video...
Well, finally in the lifetime of this thread, I got out and headed for Dorsal Arete to repeat what was my second winter climb 16 years ago. Unfortunately the dubious forecast went the opposite way than expected and closed in instead of breaking right at the crux. With the very loose conditions it made for a much more intimidating prospect than a grade 2 suggests. We bailed off having already got the hit we both needed from the day. Great fun.
Great That you got out Jimmy, and thanks for the mention earlier. Which bit did you bail on? Dorsal has always struck me as a weird route since the bottom buttress is patently way harder than 2.
Once again, I bailed due to forecast & distance. Haven't even bothered pencilling this weekend as a replacement as the weather looks even worse. Hoping to take a couple of days around 22 march, and if not then that's this "season"over for me as we're off to ',bleau for Easter.
Had another excellent DT session at Masson Lees on Saturday. Managed to scratch my way up a D7, which was great fun
Dorsal has always struck me as a weird route since the bottom buttress is patently way harder than 2.
It's only II if you start it from Broad Guly. The lines tackling the bottom section are recorded as variations up to grade IV I think.
We bailed at the actual dorsal fin. The "entrance" up on to it wasn't obvious - or more like in the howling wind by that point it wasn't appealing, especially having poked by head over the other side. I had a scratch about in the piles of loose snow on the left hand side for a couple delicate moves feeling more like III+ but wasn't committing to getting on top a cheval at that point.
A wee teaser from the new Scottish Winter Climbs North guide. Don't get too excited it's still a while away!
Glas Tholl, An Teallach.
Was up skiing at the weekend and had Monday free so I nipped into the lodge and asked if any of the staff happened to have the day off and want to climb.
Did the standard " who are you and what's the real reason you don't have a partner to climb with " dance with some random and then met up Monday morning.
Had a lovely chilled day in an t Sneachda doing a combo of Haston Line and Hidden Chimney. Really nice climbing and insane amounts of gear. She was exceedingly quick and competent and the ice was pretty good where needed. The cracks had been stripped of ice by the bright sun on Sunday evening, but the ice in the gully/ chimney was fine. Made for an excellent morning. Came down Jacobs and was back in the car driving home to Manchester by 14:15. Unheard of.
https://flic.kr/p/2pGY2Jg
Apologies for the crap picture...
I might have missed this earlier in the thread but who are you and what’s the real reason you don’t have a partner to climb with?
)As in, what's the answer I need to give to try that next time?)
Snow on Wyvis this morning. Just sayin'.
Very keen to get out this year....
Me too, fingers crossed it's a better one than last year. Give me a shout if you make it to the NW or Gorms.
Thread resurrection time! Going to head out for a poke around on something non-turfy in Coire an Lochain tomorrow. Not holding out too much hope but it's good to get the kit together and get used to the heavy bag.
If conditions come in this week I can take a day off should anyone need a partner. Not looking at serious grades, probably 4 tops.
I'm working all week unfortunately.
Just in and no more on the highest bits of Coire an Lochain today. Should improve over the next week though.
@spin Those photos are terrifying and inspiring in equal measure! Superb.
Fantastic photos, but honestly, looking at them lying on the couch, my stomach was trying to go into freefall!
I don’t mind heights, it’s being somewhere high with a big risk of an abrupt stop at the bottom! [img] https://emoticons.datahamster.com/thud.gi f" target="_blank">
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Watched Ephemeral on Prime at the weekend. Great inspiration for the winter.
Watched Ephemeral on Prime at the weekend. Great inspiration for the winter.
Guy Robertson's book is out at some point in the not too distant future. I think it's called 'Great Mixed Climbs of Scotland'. It sounds like the modern version of Cold Climbs, wee essays and inspirational photos.
Maybe, just maybe some scratching around this weekend
Not the best photos but an entertaining day in the NW. Not really in brilliant nick but we were rather limited in time and options.
Looks like lots of temperature fluctuations through the week so could be interesting by next weekend.
And a few slightly better shots...
slightly better shots…
Is one of them the Nose of Sg Chor? ( Spelling)
Anyone got any good video recommendations?
Watched some great Danni Arnold ( his accent is just amazing, could listen to him talk all day long!)
And a few from the godfather ( whose name escapes me, but he's redbull)
But so many of the videos on YouTube are just shit. Morons who don't understand that both the visual and audio bit are of great importance. Or even worse, photo albums to music.
So tell me
I finish work at 1.20 on a Tuesday so we went and did Hidden Chimney Direct. Turned on torches half way up the first pitch, 4hrs car to car. Splendid fun! Excellent nick too, the wee thaw over the weekend and refreeze put some excellent neve on the ledges. All going a bit mild from Friday though.
Is one of them the Nose of Sg Chor? ( Spelling)
Yes, the Chioch Nose on Sgurr a'Chaorachain. We did a VS to the left of the classic Severe.
Looking like a great start to the season, good work
All going a bit mild from Friday though.
Agreed. I was thinking of taking Friday off and doing the weekend, but warm 🙁
Agreed. I was thinking of taking Friday off and doing the weekend, but warm
Met office saying 5°C on summit of Cairngorm over the weekend then colder again from Monday. Might end up doing another Tuesday hit next week!
Had wee wander around on Cairngorm yesterday. Went up the Twin Ribs and was going to do Fiacaill Ridge but it was black so I wandered over to Coire an Lochain and did The Couloir. Back down into Sneachda and did Goat Track Gully and Crotched Gully. Excellent neve in all the gullies but it's going to get humped by the temperature rise and rain tomorrow.
I'm in Aviemore with the family, fearing the FOMO.
Nice photos of conditions as usual @spin. Forecast looking a bit bleak for the next week unfortunately as you say - I'd hoped to sneak a day out before Christmas and doesn't look like too much will survive.
I think it'll be pretty much back to square one after this thaw.
Ditto southern norway . Plan to go out tomorrow but not optimistic
Ditto southern norway . Plan to go out tomorrow but not optimistic
Ooh wbo. Whereabouts are you? Bought the Setesdal and Lilliehanmer guidebooks to try to work out where to go in January. Setesdal looked too hardcore ( and unreliable) so we're heading to Lilehammer. Have you ever done Lettis , Godis or Hardis?
Looking for access info in case the hire car doesn't have chains.
@spin Did you see a skier yesterday? Someone is reported missing and they we're in that area yesterday
I saw the police thing about the skier. I did see one but I've managed to confirm it wasn't him. Very poor conditions for skiing yesterday.
I'm on the west coast. I haven't done anything round Lillehammer, Hemsedal I'm afraid - I have a guidebook as well :-). Conditions there are a lot more consistent, predicatable than round here . You could come here in January and spend all your time bouldering in plus 5 degrees
Setesdal looks as hardcore as you want to make it. I'm planing a couple weekends there in the New Year as it's just inland enough to make booking accom anything but a random guess.
Your hire car will be on winter tyres, but I don't know if on studs or not (piggdekk or piggfrie). Ask and if possible request. Very few people carry chains
Every time I hired a car during winter for Norway it had studded tyres.. Tbh I cant see how it would be possible without. Both rjukan and Tromso areas, rjukan was just ice roads
Every time I hired a car during winter for Norway it had studded tyres.. Tbh I cant see how it would be possible without. Both rjukan and Tromso areas, rjukan was just ice roads
Hmmm. When we've been in winter there has indeed been studs but the guidebook and various posts specifically mention that the Bomweg to the climbs is very steep and very icy and often needs chains. I think it's an order of magnitude trickier than standard Norwegian roads
. I think it’s an order of magnitude trickier than standard Norwegian roads
Yep, fair point
Did you see a skier yesterday? Someone is reported missing and they we’re in that area yesterday
Sad outcome I'm afraid: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cy9q0yzel3lo
Eh, which road, at Rjukan? I've never been on studs there, just standard winters, ditto going Hemsedal etc . .
Just in case anyone was in any doubt it's all gone a bit mild. Did Cruising in Sneachda today and although it was acceptably white on the bits that mattered everything was black by the time we got back down. Looks like that's it for this year, hopefully 2025 brings some better nick.
On P1:
After:
Got out at Sneachda today, did Hidden Chimney Direct. Took a mild swinger off the start, fortunately not leading (first move of the season). The direct pitch was lean scratchings but otherwise a grand day with super conditions and a play in some ice next to the goat track.
Ooh wbo. Whereabouts are you? Bought the Setesdal and Lilliehanmer guidebooks to try to work out where to go in January. Setesdal looked too hardcore ( and unreliable) so we’re heading to Lilehammer. Have you ever done Lettis , Godis or Hardis?
Mate's MiL is ill, so he's had to bail. If anyone fancies climbing Norwegian ice from 25/1 to 2/2 with some internet random they've never met then give me a shout 🙂
Looks like the flights can be transferred.
In term of experience, I've done up to WI4 and Scottish 4 in the past but only a couple of 3s last year. Climbed up to E2 / f7a in the past and soloed the Cuillin ridge on a summer's day.
Crikey that's tempting, but a week away is too big an ask.