[Closed] any sparky's around I need some advice about blanking/removing a double socket.?

Is the cable coming up from below the floorboards? Can you not take the socket box out, choccy block and tape the cable and push the end back down below the boards?

Not a sparky by the way, as you can probably tell...

I am sorry this probably doesn't help massively but our wood burner is going in next week and we had the same issue. The way we dealt with it was to get the sparkys in and move the socket further along the wall. We need the socket. We have a big sub floor space and it was a pretty quick job for somebody who knows what they are doing, not me obviously, to cut a new hole in the wall and install the new socket further along, sending the 'boy' down to move the wiring. That not an option? We didn't need to touch our cheapy laminate flooring.

Is there access to the sub-floor from elsewhere in the the house? Or, can access be achieved.

You [u]must[/u] to remove the conductors from the wall if you are going to remove any visible sign that there are cables running there. A blanking plate would do, but probably not for the stove. Unmarked buried cables are very dangerous.

If a SS blanking plate is OK, crimping or Chocblocks would be OK, but, if it is a ring, the continuity of each of the 3 conductors should be confirmed to ensure that the integrity of the ring is maintained.

Also consider that the current carrying capacity of the circuit will be reduced, possibly significantly subject to the heating that the cable will be subjected to.

You can get maintenance free connector blocks that you simply push the stripped back cables into. Think they are called wago's. Quick and easy to use. Join cables with these and put a steel blank plate over the box.
How close is it to the stove? Unless its right behind the stove I'd imagine it would be ok. If you can get under the floor you should be able to pull the cables back under the floor and join them in a joint box under there.

How close to where the stove will be is the socket?

Could you not push it along the wall a bit and replace it with a single socket?

Can't you put one of these in it?

[img] [/img]

(Sorry)

thanks for the comments so far, I have thought about the wagos and blanking plate, the socket will be to one side of the stove about 300mm away, I'm struggling to think why it needs to be moved consdering the heat is deflected away from the socket out into the room, but the engineer wants it gone anyway.
absolutely no access under the floor so looks like wagos and blanking plate fix then.

cheers all.

49er_Jerry - Member
Is there access to the sub-floor from elsewhere in the the house? Or, can access be achieved.
You must to remove the conductors from the wall if you are going to remove any visible sign that there are cables running there. A blanking plate would do, but probably not for the stove. Unmarked buried cables are very dangerous.
If a SS blanking plate is OK, crimping or Chocblocks would be OK, but, if it is a ring, the continuity of each of the 3 conductors should be confirmed to ensure that the integrity of the ring is maintained.
Also consider that the current carrying capacity of the circuit will be reduced, possibly significantly subject to the heating that the cable will be subjected to.
POSTED 8 HOURS AGO #

+ 1

just seen a thread on an electrical forum regarding this and it seems that blanking plates are a no no too...but i have no 'easy' access to the sub floor so what can i do..?

There is no problem with blanking plates, if your not sure the best thing to do is to contact a registered electrician to sort it for you

no problem with the blanking plate per se but its to do with the dissipated heat..through the walls into the cable.
i'm happy with doing the work and the connections (as an ex sparky albeit marine)just want it correct and to regs. can't find distances or similar online..
if it were you how would you determine how far away the blanking plate should be as to my mind there is little difference between a blanking plate with cables behind and a socket with cables behind when it comes to protecting the cables from heat..? makes no sense.

Has the wood burner fitter given you a valid reason for it being moved? Personally I would but a banking plate on it, let him do his stuff once it's all signed off refit the socket if you think it won't be affected by the heat.

I'll check my regs book next time I'm in my van. Don't recall anything about min distance from stoves. Just join it and blank it, it'll be fine. If you're worried then fit a 20a mcb to de-rate the circuit and allow for warmer cable s. Doubt your 32a ring would ever see more than 13a tops anyway.

thanks chaps for your input, i'll fit the blanking plate tomorrow and see what he says on monday..

There is another option, and I have made a couple of assumptions here:-

1. The socket outlet in question is part of a ring final circuit
2. The ring final circuit does not have a high load. (Generally, socket circuits outside a kitchen / utility room have a low load in a domestic environment).
3. The 2 legs of the ring circuit come directly from other outlet points, without underfloor junction boxes or spurs.

You could convert the existing ring circuit into 2 radial circuits. Identify the supply cables to the socket by the stove where they exit other sockets. Terminate the two cables and connect them to the earth cable leading back to the Main Earthing Terminal (MET) at your consumer unit. This must be done for both legs of the supply to the socket that needs to be disconnected. You [u][b]MUST[/b][/u] change the MCB to a B20, from a B32 because the a 2.5mm cable cannot carry a load of 32Amps. You must also test the 2 new circuits to ensure that the Zs is correct. [i]If[/i] you are a [i]competent person[/i] you are allowed to do this yourself, providing you are not in a special location. If you are not a competent person and/or do not have there instrumentation to check the earth fault loop, get a spark to do it for you.

If you've done the disconnetion work or located the cables for him, it will be a very quick job for the spark.

Don't take risks or cut corners with anything.

Any buried cables that are left in the wall must be DEAD, and connected to the MET.