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Okay, so I need to build a partition wall in the house. On a budget as always so doing it myself.
So far I have bought timber - 75mm x 50mm. Which isn't even 75 x 50?!? I have no idea why? But I'm not a joiner...
I have also bought 12mm plasterboard.
Any tips on how to put it all together?
I'm planning on putting in a head plate, then sole plate then all the bits in between and remembering to leave a space for a door.
I haven't yet figured out how to make the frame for the door but hey, what's the worst that can happen right?
Any advice much appreciated. Such as for the size of timber I have bought what size screws should I use to fix it together?
Cheers
Your timber will be ex 75x50 ie. was 75x50 before being sawn/planed.
As you say, Soleplate, head plate, uprights (ideally spaced to fit the boards you've bought), cross members to stiffen centres and take board edges. Upright either side of door way opening (don't forget to allow for door casing) these don't have to be perfectly plumb as you can pack the casing to suit your door, and a head plate for door casing.
I'd nail it as I have a 1st fix nailer or use 5 or 6x100's although they take some driving if you've not got an impact driver.
Many thanks 🙂
I'll be making a start on Friday as I'm off then. Gives me the weekend to try and get it done.
When I measure the timber for cutting should it be mm perfect? For example, the uprights - should they be squeezed in nice and tight between head and sole plate?
Cheers
Timber is sold in the basic dimensions off the sawmill.
75x50 is smaller once plained.
I see i was beaten to it.
every day's a learning day 🙂
Cheers
Sound insulation and think about doubling up the plasterboard if sound is an issue.
Yeah, I'd cut it as tight as you can and knock it into place with a hammer as it'll hold itself whist you screw it together that way, if time is not an issue you could pilot drill before screwing to make driving the screws easier.
You'll generally find an easy way once you've started, cut the ends of the timber as square as you can though.
(don't forget to allow for door casing)
Just get yourself one of these pre-made (search Wickes and the likes for "door-liner/ing") and construct your stud-wall to accommodate one. As Blazin Saddles says, the uprights don't need to be plumb, but use a long level all the same and get them as good as you can.
When I measure the timber for cutting should it be mm perfect? For example, the uprights - should they be squeezed in nice and tight between head and sole plate?
I'd go "snug" rather than "tight". 🙂 Snug will fit nicely. Tight and you'll struggle to get them in as you hold them at any kind of angle when offering them in.
A bag of mixed packers might be handy.
You could make the frame on the floor and lift it into position. This makes nailing and fitting easier. Just make the frame 20mm smaller than the ceiling height and pack it to fit.
Any electrical socketswire going in?
I would also get the door and make the door frame before the partition.
Think about the centres for the plasterboard - make sure the joining stud is plumb.
Good luck.
p.s. hammering in nails isn't that hard - and use ring nails!
On the floor as above then rear up. Take the sole plate right through even past the door opening then cut out afterwards. 400 centres for verticals. Allow the extra 25 mm on your first centres to allow for the board to lap right up to the existing wall. Ping a chalk line at halfway up then stagger nogs either side of this allowing a better and easier fixing. Fit the board horizontally.
Brilliant! Thanks all!
I had originally thought about going for 600 centres but I'm guessing 400 will make it all a bit beefier.
I'm also going to insulate it, I was thinking this would also insulate for sound as well as heat?
Also, I was going to screw it together rather than nail it. Is this a pointless exercise?
Cheers
Sound insulation is also good for insulating against heat but many heat insulators are very poor for sound. Use a specific sound insulator for best results.
you may need to find the joists top and bottom to fix the head and sole plates to.
if you make the frame on the floor it has to be smaller than the height of the room or you will have no chance of etting it upright, fix a second sole plate to the floor and lift the frame onto it.
if you cut all the uprights very tight you may end up lifting the celing/putting a bow in the floor and the previously tight upright will become looser each time 😉
if you do not have a 6' level handy you can use a plumb line to fit the door framing and the lining, measure an even gap from the line to avoid the need to shoot the door to a bowing lining.
if you cut a spacer to the appropriate length all your studs centres will be great and it stops them drifting whil you fix them in place
a big g clamp is great for twisting bent studs as well
As edukator says be wary of the insulation. And screwing is fine. Just make sure you drive the heads in well.
when you plasterboard the walls only do one side then let the electrician fit his cables for extra sockets before you plasterboard the other side, he will love you for that.
magic! Cheers.
I hadn't even thought about a door liner! A bit of googling and it looks like they can be had for about 20 quid, sorted.
And thanks for the heads up on insulation, again, I didn't know any of that.
There's no sockets going in on this wall so that makes it a little more easy. Unfortunately I don't have the space to make up the frame on the floor and lift into place so I'll just need to wing it haha!
On the plus side my family will be well impressed if I manage to make this haha!
Pilot your screw holes on the verts then as your going to have to tush them in on the diagonal. Quick tip is cut a nog to push your vertical timber up to as you screw it, this will stop it slipping across as you fix it.
Pictures pre plasterboard for the lads 😉
It's amazing how many of the above hints and tips you forget you do on autopilot, these sort of jobs are much easier to do than explain how to do!
for screwing the timbers together would 70mm screws be okay? or should I use longer or shorter?
Cheers again
70 would just about be ok, 80mm better. I use Reisser r2 cutters but they're expensive. Turbo golds from screw fix are a good bet too and easily available.
Some videos I found helpful here:
https://www.youtube.com/user/tommystradesecrets/search?query=stud+wall
Useful to see things being done even if you later realise you'd prefer to do things slightly differently to suit your situation.
If you like those videos there are others on the channel for different tasks worth watching also.
@ OP - these are all great tips. TBH, I'm pretty backhanded when it comes to woodworking, and even my father in law and I managed to build a wall and hang a door in it a couple of Christmases ago.
My only advice (other than measure twice, cut once) is that if your ability to say in a straight line is as bad as mine, you might consider buying yourself a mitre saw.
Smashing! Thanks very much everyone. I feel I am now far better prepared for tomorrow.
STW At it finest as always, cheers everyone
😀
Thanks to everyone again, progress has been made but is on stop at the moment as I've knackered my back at work. Can anyone send me a new back?
Cheers