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Those Cottonmouths look really nice, isn't that the reflex/deflex hybrid?
Yes they are, that puts them in HT or barebow for NFAS. The Viper is the AFB
Merlin were selling them off at 40% off
I'm just north of Preston, near Longridge
I work out of an office near there occasionally
, when your groups are normally the size of a £2 coin, a
That's about two arrows if you are using 23/64 woods
23/64 woods
Wait, what madness is this? I've only ever come across folk shooting 5/16 or 11/32, I've never even [i]heard[/i] of 23/64.
You can pack a lot of ACEs into a small space! A lot of the compound archers used Fat Boys, or line-cutters as they were known as they increased the chance of cutting a line and earning a higher score...
I always thought there was something 'not quite cricket' about that kind of thing!
Anyway, ordered all the bits for my arrows yesterday - Easton Legacys, some white wraps and 4" shield feathers, red with a white cock fletch.
Looking forward to annoying my Other Half with the smell of fletching adhesive all weekend!
(they'll look like this but with shields rather than parabolics and a white wrap for visibility when I miss!)
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Ive just placed an order for a CORRECT length string for my bow!
Turns out the guy I got the set from had put a standard 68" string on (64 1/2"). But of course the Hoyt Formula limbs create a longer effective bow for 68" nominal, so I really need a 65 1/4" string.
We worked out why my bracing height was out/and or I had to have no twists in the string when comparing the string with a club mate who also shoots Hoyt F7.
This chap was very helpful sorting it out.
http://www.evansperformancebowstrings.co.uk/shop/index.php
Looking forward to tuning from scratch with the new string, and taking the opportunity to wind the limbs in a bit for a little more oomf on the fingers.
My indoor arrows are Platinum 2016 XX75 - like shooting telegraph poles at the target, but the extra line cutting is worth at least 10 points 🙂
I'll bookmark that link thanks Stoner... I can see a custom Flemish twist winging its way to me before too long!
The Legacies I've ordered are 2117, so will be a bit thicker than the 1916s I've got, but not really linecutters... They're just an XX75 with a wood-effect printed on them - they look lovely!
some white wraps
Wraps?
They're just a thin vinyl "wrap" that goes around the fletched end of your arrow.
They make them far more visible when they've missed the target and snaked under the grass!
This sort of thing...
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They're just a thin vinyl "wrap" that goes around the fletched end of your arrow.
Ah, gotcha. Not something I've come across with my woodies!
Loving the illuminated nocks!
Spot the arrow from today 😉
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2898/33480291661_7dbe55a298_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2898/33480291661_7dbe55a298_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/T1xfgX ]Spot the Arrow, win a prize ;-)[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/58162507@N07/ ]SGMTB[/url], on Flickr
Who needs carbon...
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2921/33568856626_c076b3ddd2_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2921/33568856626_c076b3ddd2_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/T9nay7 ]Great shot :-)[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/58162507@N07/ ]SGMTB[/url], on Flickr
I do...
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3724/32766850094_5dd05663eb_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3724/32766850094_5dd05663eb_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/RVuEXh ]Another one bites the dust, or tree ;-)[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/58162507@N07/ ]SGMTB[/url], on Flickr
New installation 🙂
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3827/33226340210_2c41f03a61_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3827/33226340210_2c41f03a61_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/SC6FmE ]New target installed.[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/58162507@N07/ ]SGMTB[/url], on Flickr
Just been and reminded myself how hard the Border Archery course is, two smashed and two lost arrows. If you ever get the chance to go. Anyone can shoot it for £15 and it's a 100 3Ds. Ask nicely and you get the tour and the sales pitch as well.
Make sure your arrows/bow is tuned and take an arrow take
There's trees, more trees and then trees
Our collection..
My Dads, Mine and Mrs RT's.
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2860/33226667130_c746af0dcb_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2860/33226667130_c746af0dcb_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/SC8mxd ]P1410401[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/58162507@N07/ ]SGMTB[/url], on Flickr
Spot the Arrow, win a prize
Just a smidge North-East of dead centre?
New installation
I hope that's not taken from the shooting point, it's a bit compound-hostile (unless it's just for you and you don't have anyone else shooting compound, ofc).
I hope that's not taken from the shooting point, it's a bit compound-hostile (unless it's just for you and you don't have anyone else shooting compound, ofc).
No compounder's 🙂 and taken from the shooting point.
All part of the fun 🙂
Just a smidge North-East of dead centre?
about right 🙂
I hope that's not taken from the shooting point, it's a bit compound-hostile (unless it's just for you and you don't have anyone else shooting compound, ofc).
The compound crowd would nail that shot.... much harder for the HT crowd.
One with 32lb and can still drop it in through the trees :-)..but then again he is truly instinctive and must think in some sort of matrix type way.
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3955/33482090131_d7ed5e4148_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3955/33482090131_d7ed5e4148_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/T1GsU4 ]P1410579[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/58162507@N07/ ]SGMTB[/url], on Flickr
Well, good news and bad news from the first proper weekend's shooting, the good news being that I can still actually shoot! 35lb seems just about spot-on for my gammy shoulder, and arrows seem to be heading in the general direction I'm sending them. The photo below is at one of my Heath Robinson temporary targets from around 75-80 yards - a slightly down-hill line from one side of the valley to the other.
The bad news is the bow... I heard a rather unpleasant splintering noise at full draw and the outer laminate on the upper limb has developed a series of cracks. So it's going back from whence it came for a full refund! 🙁
So, any recommendations for a huntsman-style one-piece recurve to replace it? The Bearpaw Hopi is top of the shortlist at just short of 200 quid... Can't really spend any more than that as we're expecting our first mini-archer/cyclist in September (that's the other good news!) 😀
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@councilof10. If you haven't already then check out the Ragim range at merlinarchery.co.uk good looking bows around your price range. A longer bow would be better for you if you have a long draw length. I would recommend the timbercreek bows but they have non in stock around your price range and draw weight. The Ragim mountain lion looks a very nice bow at 62inch long. Like the 80 yard to flat target.
check out the Ragim range at merlinarchery.co.uk
It was a Ragim Black Bear that has cracked - to be honest, I wouldn't trust another Ragim bow! My draw length is 29.5, so well within the max draw length for the Black Bear, I'm just glad it happened within 30 days so I can get a full refund rather than a replacement.
I've just ordered the Bear Paw Hopi - there aren't many reviews online but I spoke to the guy at Longbowshop this morning and he said they're unbelievable value for £185.00.
They're made to Bodnik's specifications by a Chinese manufacturer, but by all accounts, the quality of materials and workmanship is on a par with Bodnik's signature bows.
That target is actually on a fairly steep bank, so good visibility... I quite like just being able to chuck a target wherever I fancy! But I will make some proper bosses for in fixed positions...
I think it's safe to say that those cedar arrows shoot a bit stiffer than the aluminiums!
Well that will teach me to not check the bow you had before posting. I really liked the guys at the longbow shop. Very pleasant experience. Must be a horrible feeling when you hear your bow crack like that. I am still in the process of deciding which arrows to order. The wife has told me I can't order any till I have somewhere to shoot. #underthethumb. Lol
The Longbow Shop were very helpful, so much so that rather than having it couriered (when it's ready - it's a custom order so might take a few weeks) I'm going to drive over and pick their brains about setting it up etc.
Finished fletching the new Easton Legacies last night - just waiting for the pile inserts, Merlin thought they were fitted so didn't send any but they've been very helpful sorting it out.
They look AMAZING! I've gone for flat red/white fletchings which look stunning... I'll post a pic when they're finished.
The bow still seems to shoot OK - just as well as the dealer I bought it from is closed until 10th April!! Not particularly impressed with his level of service, but I'll reserve judgment until the matter is resolved.
I suggest a Hoyt 23inch Excel riser and 36lb (making 38lb) ILF medium limbs. Anything after 40lb is just mental for shooting hessian 😉
It's light and adjustable. The only draw back I've found is that the metal riser can be cold in winter 🙁 ... but fabric tape sorted that out.
Job done.
Thanks for the suggestion Red Thunder but it's my love of one-piece hunter-style recurves that brought me back to traditional archery - I have a Hoyt GM and some 36lb Winact limbs that I could shoot off the shelf, but I like lovely wooden 1-piece bows! 🙂
What really want is one of these..... 🙂
I've lusted after Border bows since I first saw one when I was around 7 or 8! In fact I can say with some certainty that it was that bow - a Black Douglas - that sparked my interest in hunter-style bows!
Maybe one day, but I don't think Mrs Councilof10 would be too happy if I dropped a grand on a bow right now!
Tick & Stick” Free Target -- for Tick Awareness 2017
A3 PDF at the link.
http://brokenarrowuk.com/2017/03/27/tick-stick-free-target-broken-arrow-uk/
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Cheers Redthunder! I'll print a few of those out... 😀
Watch out for Black Douglas bows on eBay. They often go cheap.
The new Border mosstrooper seems to have potential. Hex 7.5 technology, handle similar to the harrier royale gives more heft. But with a slit push forward ala the covert hunter. Felt well balanced to me.
Just left the sweet shop 🙂
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Nice chaps at Wales Archery have shorteniled my xx75 to bring them into spine and I've bought myself a set of a/c/c in spine for my new bow. V excited...
Wallet a little light though...
a/c/c?
Aah! Ta.
Nice, I can almost smell that heady mixture of cedar, fletching adhesive and possibly a hint of leather...
I have some ACCs, lovely arrows - I think they're as good as most people need most of the time. ACEs were *slightly* tighter at 100m in crosswinds, but I used the ACCs 90% of the time.
I'm looking forward to spending the evening setting up my nocking point and button and brining the group in. My floppy xx75 s were clipping the riser so my groups have been going for a Burton lately
Cheers Redthunder! I'll print a few of those out...
No worries 🙂
Love to see one Tick & Sticked on your range :-).... Photo would be cool.
@Stoner
Where are you based ? I was over at Wales Archery the other day as well.
Not far from you RT.
Malvern way.
Finished the Easton Legacies, who fancies a bit of arrow porn?
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And here's a pic of the cracked limb on my Ragim Black Bear... 🙁
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@councilof10. Your arrows look great. Am considering getting a jig and having a go at fletching my own arrows. Always thought it was a bit of a dark art but YouTube tells a different story. Shame about the bow. I'm sure your new one will be a whole lot better
Cheers flibrose, making arrows is an absolute doddle and quite satisfying! I have a basic Cartel jig that I've had since I was a kid and it works fine - I was thinking of getting a helical clamp for it, but I can't see it making a huge difference.
It's a nice job to do whilst watching TV... I use Fletch-tite Platinum glue which only requires 5 mins clamping time and 48hrs to fully cure - the only way you can really cock it up is if you remove the clamp too soon and things get a bit messy.
Compared to the cost of ready builts - and having to replace full arrows when you lose a fletching, it's a no-brainer!
fletching your own is a pleasure much like doing a batch of inner tubes in front of the fire with Ed Reardon on the iPlayer app. 🙂
I also use fletch-tite. Works fine, but keep a snot rag handy.
5min clamping time? blimey, that'd take 3hrs to do a set of arrows! I do less than 30s, but then stand the arrow in a vase so the vanes arent touching anything while they set.
flibrose, I have a nearly new one of these going spare if you're interested:
http://www.merlinarchery.co.uk/cartel-fletching-jig.html
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Will probably cost a fiver to post unless you are anywhere near Malvern. So if you ping me a fiver and put another fiver in the air ambulance tin, it's yours.
I ended up with one of these in the bag of kit I bought last year so use it now as it's got "pro" in the name and I'm just that ace!
https://www.clickersarchery.co.uk/products/1117/longshot-pro-fletching-jig/
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Stoner that is very gracious of you. I will email you to get details if that's ok?
Mine is the same as Stoner's first pic. You don't need owt fancy - it just does the job. And if you fancy trying helical fletching, the twisted clamp costs about a tenner I think.
You don't need to worry about clamp times when using plastic vanes or short feathers, but 4/5 inch feathers have a pronounced curve so you need to let them set a bit, otherwise the ends try to return to their original curve.
I can't remember what I used last time I made arrows. Polystyrene cement probably. (-: And a glue gun stick melted on a gas burner for the piles (hush now).
I'm looking forward to spending the evening setting up my nocking point and button and brining the group in.
How are you setting it, incidentally? Sheet of paper / trial and error bow tuning, or some sort of maths? I half remember the advice given as a kid about it being a sixteenth above / below the arrow shelf or some such but I'm buggered if I can remember now, it was half a lifetime ago.
Logic would suggest that it should be above the shelf by whatever the difference is between the bottom of the nock and the bottom of the spine (ie, it's perfectly perpendicular) but I've no idea whether that's the case in practice or not.
but 4/5 inch feathers
well if you will shoot with half a dead chicken on the back end....
top of the bottom nock should be 1/8" above the line of the arrow rest apparently.
The button I set to put the tip of the pile just to the left of the bow string (RH), and the button pressure adjust until the shot is centred, having set the centre shot with the sight in line with the bow/string centre line.
flibrose, feel free to pm at my email.
My Recipe
• POC Shafts at desired spine and cut to length.
• Sanded with 1200grain sand/glass paper.
• 3 coats of Danish oil
• Boning index nocks glued on with Fletchtite
• Pile, brass or steel 100grain screw ons.
• 4 inch left wing sheild or parabolic feathers with a Tollgate jig.Leave each feather on for 15min. Dont forget to line up correctly with the rift of the arrow.
• Crested with lego machine 😉
Go to the woods and break ;-)..not very often.
What's the thinking behind left-wing feathers Red? I've used right wing on those Legacies, simply because I'm using threaded inserts/piles and I'd prefer them not to come lose when hitting the target...
I've been told. There is no diffrenece, as long as you dont mix.
Lego Arrow Cresting Machine 🙂
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3810/33586277622_d5904e14af_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3810/33586277622_d5904e14af_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/TaUsd7 ]P1260422[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/58162507@N07/ ]SGMTB[/url], on Flickr
I've got a video somewhere and I'll try post later.
A few pics of my timbercreek cottonmouth Zebrano wood finish
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All this archery talk has me itching to get back in the field, unfortunately my wrist won't cope. However I may start making some custom leatherwork for the discerning archer.... hmmmmmmmm
Lego Arrow Cresting Machine
Oh that's ace. Looking forward to the video.
All this archery talk has me itching to get back in the field, unfortunately my wrist won't cope.
Would swapping hands help?
No, I've tried shooting left hand and I'm even worse!
@daftvadar a nice back quiver like the ones on www.northmen.com would be very appealing
Oooooo! That's rather lovely.
So I've been having a thinking, as some of you may know I make a few pieces of fossil branded outdoorsy stuff, adding archery gear to the range seems like a good idea.... as a market research type of thing what would people be willing to pay for items similar to those in the link above? (Hand made and custom Bracers, back quivers and the like)
Don't think I'd be willing to pay anything like those sort of prices!!
TBH, my experience of archers in the UK - particularly field/trad archers - is that they're happy to spend silly money on bows but they'll use home-made stuff elsewhere.
I don't think they'll sell many of those quiver/belt/pouch combos for almost 500 quid in the UK!
There's probably more of a market for it in the US... Have a look at this young lady's stuff for some inspiration - she's NZ-based...
[url=
Buchanan on Facebook[/url]
That Timber Creek bow looks REALLY nice! I wish I'd seen those discounted bows as Merlin before they sold out...
Tried the new arrows out last night, far too stiff! Need to try some 125gr piles to see if that softens them up... The slo-mo filming on iPhones is very useful for now tuning!
Yeah I agree. those prices are a bit silly, I guess tho it depends on hours worked on a piece, I reckon no more than 130-150 quid for a back quiver and slightly more for a side quiver with pouch....
And the Kay buchannan stuff is bloody brilliant!
TBH, my experience of archers in the UK - particularly field/trad archers - is that they're happy to spend silly money on bows but they'll use home-made stuff elsewhere.
I agree
However if you do some samples talk to the Longbow Shop i think they have more of the target audience and also bring in stuff from the small makers
That Timber Creek bow looks REALLY nice! I wish I'd seen those discounted bows as Merlin before they sold out...
I have seen a couple and they are OK, not shot one which is the real test.
I'd keep an eye on the border Facebook page as that where they do their sales, from my glance around the other day the massive over stock isn't there yet so it's likely to be a while for the flatbows, and if you are passing and a stock bow fits it is always worth trying to negotiate, I timed it right and have two very nice bargains including a Hawk Hunter GL for less than a cottonmouth
Not a bad idea bigndaft... problem really is that there are loads of people doing this kind of stuff on etsy... needs a usp really...
I'd keep an eye on the border Facebook page as that where they do their sales, from my glance around the other day the massive over stock isn't there yet so it's likely to be a while for the flatbows, and if you are passing and a stock bow fits it is always worth trying to negotiate, I timed it right and have two very nice bargains including a Hawk Hunter GL for less than a cottonmouth
I might just do that, thanks for the tip!
Target archers aren't into leather - they prefer colour-coordinated or branded kit. I very much doubt it's a market that you'd make anything out of - as you say, etsy is full of people that do it for a hobby and aren't looking to make profit.
Back to arrows, how much difference will 25gr make on my points? I've got those Saunders threaded combis in 100gr, would 125s soften a stiff arrow considerably?
Back to arrows, how much difference will 25gr make on my points? I've got those Saunders threaded combis in 100gr, would 125s soften a stiff arrow considerably?
For me about i
An inch in length, ie changing the pile makes up for the stiffer shorter arrow shaft I have after a break
I'm a little frustrated - I spoke to Merlin who advised on length and spine. Then they came back to me saying that Easton had changed the un-cut length to just under an inch shorter than they advised.
But they said with nock/pile fitted, they'd still be long enough for my draw (which they are)...
However, the slightly shorter arrow is too stiff for the bow - bare shaft is hitting the boss at almost 45° at 12 meters. I'll get some 125gr when I go to the Longbow shop and hope for the best... Perhaps the Bear Paw bow might be a little faster than the Ragim too which would help.
I know, I should have bare-shafted one before I built them up, but Merlin forgot to include threaded inserts, so I soldiered on with the fletching and fitted the inserts last. 🙁
ouch.
Im afraid I cant really help on tuning as I learn from my coaches, but the most important advice I get given is to go to the shop with my bowset before buying.
Wales (and I assume Merlin too) have a small shooting range, and a full selection of bare-shaft arrows to test following taking draw and poundage measurements.
Chap at Wales sucked his teeth, plucked out a bare shaft of the right spec and lo and behold, I banged it straight in at 90 degrees. Good guess. Good guess. At £150 for a set, I was loathe to splash on mail order....
Lego Cresting Movie
Found the movie on my external drive, couple more to follow.
My current version, I roll the arrow with my hand.
Sorry about the music (noise) it seemed fun at the time with Dance Ejay 😉
Shooting clays in slo motion.
Panasonic Lumix TZ40 200fps
Shooting Fimbles in Slow Mo
Panasonic Lumix TZ40 200fps
Flu Fly Flying Far Far Away....
Panasonic Lumix TZ40 200fps
My arrows 29.5 inch. About 2.5 inch sticking out the front, 100grain piles.
Fly like magic 🙂
PS I dont look at my arrow, I look at the target 🙂
Lego Cresting Short Version
@fibrose
Nice Cottonmouth. Civilised poundage as well
🙂
I'm a little frustrated -I know, I should have bare-shafted one before I built them up, but Merlin forgot to include threaded inserts, so I soldiered on with the fletching and fitted the inserts last."
Next time 🙂
Get a stock arrow shaft and nock it. Stick a leaf or a bit of card on the end dand draw back to your anchor and this will give a miniumum length. Leave a couple of inches on the shaft for future snaps at the pile end.
If you go wood next time that is. I assume your carbons have all bee cut short 🙁
4 inch feathers, 100grain pile and for 5/16 dia shaft.
The pile and nock gives you an extra inch. Dont worry about arrow sticking out the front,,,,and dont look at it when you shoot.
Use the force,,,,hunting tackle (barebow) vision that is 😉
"Aim Small, Miss Small"
My arrows 29.5 inch. About 2.5 inch sticking out the front
Are you the anti-gibbon? 🙂
31.5" arrows, with 1/2" out the back of the bow.
Me sasquatch.
I'm a little frustrated - I spoke to Merlin who advised on length and spine. Then they came back to me saying that Easton had changed the un-cut length to just under an inch shorter than they advised.But they said with nock/pile fitted, they'd still be long enough for my draw (which they are)...
However, the slightly shorter arrow is too stiff for the bow - bare shaft is hitting the boss at almost 45° at 12 meters. I'll get some 125gr when I go to the Longbow shop and hope for the best... Perhaps the Bear Paw bow might be a little faster than the Ragim too which would help.
Arrow spining is a dark art and I find there is a lot of bollox out there
I shoot 70-75# spined woods full length with 100 grain piles out of my 48# border took 6 sets of arrows to get it right, if I break the end then i put a 125 pile on which compensates just about right
If the eastons are to stiff it's ramp up the pile weight significantly? (150 or 175) or get a faster bow or sell them
Just going up 25 grains isn't going to make enough difference IMHO
Finally tracked down my Portland 2000, which strangely is in better nick than I remember - riser looks brand new. Sadly though I can't seem to find any of the gubbins for it - literally have the bare bow without even a string.
Advice please - when I bung it on eBay, should I (buy a string and) string it for the photos? And what sort of string is considered de rigeur these days? Fastflite still ok?