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Recently had my house reinstated after floods boxing day 2015 which included new electrics downstairs, new consumer unit, all signed off to current standards.
I've not moved back in yet, but have been using the new induction hob for boiling water for cups of tea whilst I prepare the house to move back into, all seemed ok.
Went to use it last friday, put a pan of water on, pressed some controls and BANG! Blows the RCD and MCB. I've tried it a couple of times since, switching on at the isolation switch in the kitchen, same result but as soon as I flick the isolation switch this time BANG! RCD and MCB
Induction hob is a brand new Samsung. As I say, it did appear to be working ok and I've been using it on turbo boost for boiling water for drinks. I can't really get the building co back yet because I bought and supplied the induction hob, so unless it's the electrics or badly installed, it's kind of not their problem.
Should I just assume it's a duff appliance or could it be electrics? Should I get an electrician in for 2nd opinion on the electrics before calling out Samsung? Not sure what to do.
If no works have been done since the last time it worked, you've got to assume the hob is faulty?
Has it got an instruction manual?
Turn off the MCB. Turn off the isolator. Take out the hob.
Visually check the connections to see if you can see any loose/exposed connections. If it's ok disconnect the cable. Ensure the conductors of the cable are not touching each other or anything. Ideally insulate the cables with choc. blocks or tape temporarily. Turn on the mcb. Turn on the isolator. Does it go bang? (the cables will be live so DON'T TOUCH!).
If so, I would turn off the mcb and check inside the isolator. The fixing screw may have penetrated a cable inside the box.
If it doesn't go bang, reconnect the hob taking care to make the connections correctly.
Try again. Bang = faulty hob.
Rich.
Blows the RCD and MCB.
Blowing both quickly suggests a short to earth somewhere....
Could be a lose wire in the socket where the hob is wired in, or a fault in the hob itself.
Yes to instruction manual. Heating engineers been in installing rads but all the electrics had been done for the boiler so he won't have been messing in the consumer unit. I did wonder if he's drilled into a cable when mounting the rads, but I don't think so.
Does this happen when you turn on the hob, or a specific ring?
Does this happen when you turn on the hob, or a specific ring?
First time it happened hob was on, in terms of all the controls were lit up but nothing was 'on'. However I had a pan on one ring but nothing was happening so I pressed to activate another control with the intention of moving the pan over, when it went BANG. Since then, it goes BANG as soon as I flick the isolation switch on the wall (previously, when you flicked the isolation switch on, the hob did spring to life briefly, lit up, played a little jingle and went off)
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It sounds very much like there is a fault with the hob or the connection. although it wold be unusual for the connection to be faulty if it was previously okay.
So before you call an engineer make sure it has been installed properly. There are some finer details with an induction hob that some fitters miss because they presume it is the same as an electric hob and don't read the instructions.
It differs with brands but here are some of the things to look for and check if the fitting instructions say do not.
Is it over and oven?
Is it over a cutlery drawer(interferes with the magnetics, unlikely)
Is it over a drawer with tea towels in it? which can cause the cooling fans to be blocked and hob to over heat.
has the top rail been taken out of the unit below? This should be the case to create a sufficient airflow.
Are you competent enough to take it out? The hob
My money is on a short in the local isolator, a wire has popped out of terminal . Done it myself.
Or,the hob is duff.
I've had a look at the manual and it does have to have the top rail of the unit below, i.e. there should be a gap between the work surface and the top of the door or oven below. Also if over a drawer nothing that will obstruct the airflow.
If this is wrong get the fitter to correct it, be nice about it but let them know it is important. While there they can check your electrical connection. While the hob is out take a note of the numbers on the plate as you will need these if you need an engineer.
Hi, there is a good size gap at the front between worktop and oven where you can clearly see the front of the hob and it's front grill for air circulation , so I don't believe that will be an issue. There's also plenty of space between the oven and underside of hob.
Enough people are suggesting electrics as a possible cause, for me to get an independent sparky in to look at the electrics. I'm not going to get the buildings co back because they'll not admit to a cock up and might even try to cover up an error. Once I've got the electrics checked then I guess it's AO.com and/or Samsung
I just wasn't sure if the symptoms I described people might say it definitely was / wasn't one thing or the other (electrics or appliance).
Cool at least you have checked for proper installation so if an engineer calls he won't say the waranty is invalid. Why don't you get the fitter back to check the electrical connection? Were they a pain in the neck?
I've checked the wiring and found the earth wires were wired into the socket (back of oven) but the screw hadn't been tightened so the earth wires were effectively loose. So I guess the probability is due to not being earthed properly. I tightened the screw put it all back together but the MCB is still tripping, does this mean the hob is now trashed?
Why don't you get the fitter back to check the electrical connection? Were they a pain in the neck?
Yes, but I basically think their electrician wouldn't admit that he f'd up and bust a £600 hob. More likely to mask his blunder and claim innocent, call me cynical.