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In Alpkit's recent space maker sale I bought a Katabatic jacket. It's very nice but at £130, I wondered if there was anything else to consider from the likes of Rab, Montane etc.
If you look at "belay jackets" there are several options from climbing gear companies, most are not as form fitting as Katabatic but have good pockets and hood.
Looks very similar to my Montane Prism (which I really like). The Alpkit has a more athletic cut by the looks of it, though.
I also nabbed one in their sale up in Keswich a couple of weeks back.
I bought it more as a winter / cold weather mid layer rather than as a belay jacket. If it was raining hard I'd definetly stick a GTX over it. In fact that's what I've done so far walking in it on the fells in about 5C and wind / rain.
I also have the Arcteryx Nuclei AR belay jacket, which is way more robust and a good emergency layer, which would cope better getting wet - tougher outer layer and 100% windproof (as in really 100%, not just 'very' windproof).
I see the Katabatic as a beefed up Arcteryx Atom LT, very close to the Atom AR. I sold my Atom LT as I didn't like the wind through the side panels, can't remember why I sold the AR. I'm currently selling a Rab Alpha Direct as the pertex shell is too thin for me, on the fell tops the wind just cuts through it so I need a shell over it even if its not windy. Katabatic is more windproof than the Alpha Direct.
I'm a bit of a gear freak, I've also owned the Patagonia DAS, Black diamond Stance belay jackets - both overkill for the UK IMO. I just buy jackets, try them out on the fells once or twice and sell them on if I don't like them.
I bought a Katabatic and an Arcteryx Atom AR to try before a trip to Patagonia and ended up keeping the Arcteryx and sending the Katabatic back because it wasn’t quite as well insulated, but I was impressed by the Katabatic and I’d have been happy to have kept it.
As it turned out I took a fall on the first day of the trip and ripped the Atom to shreds on sharp rocks 🙁
As it turned out I took a fall on the first day of the trip and ripped the Atom to shreds on sharp rocks
A bit 'odd' but I wear my Alpkit stuff way more than my Arcteryx as I don't mind damaging it so much. Arcteryx is so expensive / beautifully made I feel bad using it in case I damage it...
My most worn fleece in an Alpkit one and it looks like the person sewing the cuffs was pissed as a fart when they did them, hence I'm happy to garden / repair bikes wearing it...
Good insight thanks. The Katabatic does seem quite similar to the Montane Prism in terms of price (or at least the price I got it for) and features. The Katabatic has Primaloft Gold Eco instead of Silver. It also has some stretch to it which I like as it means it fits really well.
The Katabatic has highlighted just how rubbish my North Face Thermoball hoodie is in comparison. No stretch and the slightest bit of wind goes through it. It almost always has to be worn under a shell. It seems designed to fit someone with a beer gut too. It packs down well though.
I think I'll keep the Katabatic
The thing about the Katabatic is that it's designed to be used on the move. The fabrics aren't windproof because the Active version of PrimaLoft allows the manufacturer to spec a more breathable fabric without the insulation trying to escape. If you want windproof, you're better off with something using a full-on, standard Pertex-type windproof fabric.
I've got a Katabatic here and like it because it's quite breathable, but harsh wind goes right through it unless you layer it under a shell. In a way it's more of a glorified fleece than a belay jacket. I wear it a lot, but not as a classic on when stopped / off when moving thing. The fabric's not very tough with extended use btw. Mine was a few points where it's starting to wear through.
The reason the Themoball jacket is so lacking in wind-resistance btw, is because to stop the little balls of insulation rolling around, they have to use a quilted-type construction with loads of stitchlines all of which allow air through and don't contain any insulation.