Advice on timber fr...
 

Advice on timber frame house construction.

10 Posts
8 Users
0 Reactions
614 Views
Posts: 427
Full Member
Topic starter
 

We’ve had the results back on a house survey we’ve been accepted on and the construction is noted as timber framed brick skin. This hadn’t even entered my head and I wrongly assumed it would be conventional brick cavity being a 1987 build year bungalow. 

Is there anything specific I should be aware of? I was planning on adding solar panels and cavity wall insulation, but obviously not that now. I guess the frame itself can’t be inspected for any problem. 

Would it be a dealbreaker for some? Am I worrying unnecessarily?  What’s the pro’s/cons?  

 

 
Posted : 01/08/2025 6:54 pm
Posts: 4286
Full Member
 

Our house is Timber framed. No brick skin. Recent barn conversion. Some insurance companies won't cover it but it didn't take long to find a reputable company to use that also included bike cover. 

Other thing to note is sound insulation is much less than a brick house so could be an issue if other houses or roads are very close. 

 
Posted : 01/08/2025 9:18 pm
Posts: 39347
Free Member
 

Guessing this isn't Scotland where this has been the norm for 30+ years ?

 
Posted : 01/08/2025 10:03 pm
Posts: 3228
Free Member
 

Old house was mid 80s timber framed and block construction. As trail rat above, it's in Scotland and pretty normal construction for here.

Cavity wall insulation wasn't possible. I did make improvements to the existing meagre wall insulation via stripping out internally but they were largely replacing poorly installed or slumped material. It made a noticeable difference and the house was very warm at the end of the work.

Quite messy/disruptive but it was a small single story bungalow so possible. Linings were all plasterboard. 

Has it got suspended floors? Mine had crawl space underneath sufficient to install underfloor insulation. Roof space was sufficient for significant depth of insulation 

No problems insuring or mortgaging.

 

 

 

 
Posted : 01/08/2025 10:31 pm
Posts: 2563
Free Member
 

Timber frame it is just a passing fad and as for Scottish housebuilding they have the audacity to put 19mm thick sarking boards or whatever they're called under a slate roof, they put the windows and doors to the back of the outside cavity wall and that canny be right and use 7nm dense concrete blocks that are the equivalent of 6 bricks tight gits them Scots

 
Posted : 01/08/2025 10:35 pm
Posts: 6174
Full Member
 

I was planning on adding solar panels and cavity wall insulation, but obviously not that now.

Why not? I've just built a timber frame/stone "skin" house in our garden. It's got plenty of insulation in the timber frame - enough to meet current energy efficiency regs - and I've just had folk round to quote for solar panels.

 
Posted : 02/08/2025 12:01 am
Posts: 43
Full Member
 

Timber framed houses are excellent if built correctly. 
check for any signs of damp internally, signs of mould around windows and doors. If you’re looking to upgrade insulation it’s disruptive but can be more thorough than filling brick cavities as you can see what your filling with insulation. 
timber framed houses are generally more thermally efficient.

Solar panels are a great option and in my experience worth the investment. 
I have just completed a new build which is timber framed,well insulated with solar on the roof with zero heating bills, it putting £90 pcm back to the grid at the mo. 
Happy to offer advise re insulation if it helps. 

 
Posted : 02/08/2025 7:42 am
Posts: 1629
Full Member
 

Cavity wall insulation wasn't possible. I did make improvements to the existing meagre wall insulation via stripping out internally but they were largely replacing poorly installed or slumped material. It made a noticeable difference and the house was very warm at the end of the work.

Quite messy/disruptive but it was a small single story bungalow so possible. Linings were all plasterboard.

 Any tips for doing this? We have an extension on ours that’s a fair age now where the rooms are noticeably colder in winter with a bit of mould when it’s not properly aired. Suspect the insulation has slumped and was probably not great anyway. 

Thinking that taking out coving/skirting then removing plasterboard panels, fitting new insulation, then new panels would be worthwhile but never done something like that before.

 
Posted : 02/08/2025 8:32 am
Posts: 1629
Full Member
 

Cavity wall insulation wasn't possible. I did make improvements to the existing meagre wall insulation via stripping out internally but they were largely replacing poorly installed or slumped material. It made a noticeable difference and the house was very warm at the end of the work.

Quite messy/disruptive but it was a small single story bungalow so possible. Linings were all plasterboard.

 Any tips for doing this? We have an extension on ours that’s a fair age now where the rooms are noticeably colder in winter than the rest of the house, with a bit of mould when it’s not properly aired. Suspect the insulation has slumped and was probably not great anyway. 

Thinking that taking out coving/skirting then removing plasterboard panels, fitting new insulation, then new panels would be worthwhile but never done something like that before.

 
Posted : 02/08/2025 8:33 am
Posts: 3228
Free Member
 

Yep I removed skirting etc then the plasterboard linings. I cut the plasterboard 6 inches beneath the joint with the ceiling and tucked the new insulation up behind the remaining plasterboard. It avoided having to deal with damage to the corner/ceiling interface. I taped and skimmed the new join, it's invisible.  I did a similar thing around a window opening. I'm sure if you had the skills you might do it differently but I dont

While I was in there I fixed up the shocking bodges that had been done too! Lots of tears in membrane, smashed timber and botched dwangs. 

You could decide to lose room space to increase insulation, I didn't as the house was already pretty small

 
Posted : 02/08/2025 11:12 am