3d printing advice

Short answer, no. Common printing material is PLA which won't be happy, other filaments will do better but still aren't suitable.

Thanks!

Bit of discussion in the comments on that link re. temperature resistance but no-one bothered coming back with any results. I’d have thought PETG would be ok - starts to deform at 80 degrees, the outside of the machine won’t get that hot surely?
otherwise a more technical material like Nylon or PC would be fine, you’d need a higher end printer for those though.
Ultimately though yeah, unless you have access to a 3d printer (in which case it’d be a no-brainer to try it, one of the reasons they’re so useful!) £25 delivered for a part guaranteed to work is not terrible.

I doubt anything on the outside of a kitchen appliance will get that hot. It woudn't be very safe. I'd give it a go and see what happens.

If you want to print a test I could do you one and see what happens.

I doubt anything on the outside of a kitchen appliance will get that hot. It woudn’t be very safe. I’d give it a go and see what happens.

If you want to print a test I could do you one and see what happens.

How much load is the latch under? Enough to break the stock part I guess... The problem basically is that while the part won't <melt> until a reasonably high temp, if it's under load then as soon as you get above the glass temp you have a risk of deformation. So it's not just about the heat but also the stress.

ABS is probably better here than PETG- people default to petg for structural parts now and it'svery durable but its heat resistance isn't that much more than pla, typical ABS will get you over 100. Nylon better still and very strong but less people can print it. Also ABS is very workable- if you have a fit issue or roughness or similiar you can trim or sand it easily.

I could have a crack at it but tbh I've not printed in ABS for years so it may not come out brilliantly...

TBF the other question is how much work it is to fit, £25 might be a small price to pay for a one-and-done repair compared to possible timewasting and faff with a print.

the latch is internal and is in direct contact with metal parts

way to drip feed 🙂 yeah that explains then on the link why people were considering cutting it out of metal. No, I doubt ABS or other common 3d print materials will be suitable. Possibly Nylon, probably PC would be ok.

I doubt anything on the outside of a kitchen appliance will get that hot. It woudn’t be very safe. I’d give it a go and see what happens.

If you want to print a test I could do you one and see what happens.

I’ve got a Lazer temp probe, next time I cook a loaf I’ll see if I can get a rough temperature around that area.

Terrmometer shows 135 at the end of baking so I guess thanks for the offer but likely much too hot.

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Resurrecting this thread and still not knowing a whole lot about 3d printing...

I found another bunch of things that I'd like to print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863700

I popped them into a random 3d printing service online.

It came up with a price of £120 (4 in pla 100% infill, 2 in tpu 100% infill). Is this a realistic cost (in which case I think I'll forget about 3d printing for good)?

It's a realistic cost if you are a company employing people and making money. 

It wouldn't cost anywhere near that if you have your own hobby printer. 

Small jobs aren't really worth doing commercially so you often get minimum charges if it is below a certain siz or quantity.

Might have more luck with a hobbyist with a side hustle or get it done in China. jlcpcb are quite good for small jobs. They have lots of manufacturing options.

I'd agree - you are paying for machinery, time, material, expertise & the coffee. Getting stuff you have found and downloaded printed commercially is not a great use of money - getting things you have drawn up yourself printed if you don't have the capacity makes more sense. 

£250 would buy you a simple machine able to do what you want and £40 enough filament to do loads of printing.

Oh, and the strength benefits of going above 40% infill are pretty marginal.

I would offer to look at printing it but there are issues with it going in a car where there are critical components located that could be damaged in a failure, being made with materials that aren't suitable for elevated temperatures and most of all a design that looks to have lacked any actual engineering.  If it fails, what are the consequences?

Don't give up on 3D printing, additive manufacturing is brilliant but have the right scope for the project. 

It's to put a box under the bonnet of an electric car in place of the plastic cover, so I'd not have any qualms about printed parts - no significant heat and no real consequences if it fails.

It's about 50g of TPU and 280g of PLA (but I'd probably go PETG) at 75% infill, 4 walls - I'm assuming one of each STL in the zip (2 of each bracket, four TPU cylinders). So a few quids worth of material. The bits would fit on the bed of a £170 Bambu A1 mini if you wanted to DIY.

If you're not fussed about colour though I can print these up for you in exchange for a donation to the local food bank.

Yeah that's a "don't want to do it" quote imo. I wouldn't want to do this one myself, I'm not good enough at tpu (my printer ought to be fine but I've never used tpu much). The other parts are simple for petg, or abs with an enclosure, wouldn't do them in pla personally. (in fairness, what you're paying for mostly isn't the material or even the printer, it's the million hours the person has invested over the years on fighting bloody 3d printers and learning their untrustworthy ways)

One of the things about tpu is that tpu material varies wildly. It used to be a bit of a willy-waving thing as it was hard to print with, back in the day with crappier printers, so people would sometimes find the hardest tpu they could find and print with it and say "tpu is easy, get good noobs" and then other people wouldn't understand why they couldn't get the same results with a super soft. Which also means you have a bit of a quesiton when you're choosing the material, how soft does this want to be? Not very I think. If you want something properly squishy AND dimensionally accurate AND not looking like crap, that's difficult!