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Whats the score with climbing guides these days, books, apps or website? Or all 3?
It depends where you're going and what you want to do. I think most people still like a paper book but the rockfax app has good coverage of some areas.
Cheers, guess I'll look for solutions to the "local spots" and work out as needed from there.
Anyway, in the spirit of daydreaming about stuff you might possibly at some point maybe so. If you was to pick your first multi pitch route, what would yo go for?
Having just watched the BMCs Sou'Wester Slabs video my imagination has been triggered about the possibilities. Which frankly, also seem very far away as a possibility.
I'm looking forward to this thread being updated over the Easter holidays with lots of photos
Does anyone have anything exciting planned?
If you was to pick your first multi pitch route, what would yo go for?
Having just watched the BMCs Sou’Wester Slabs video my imagination has been triggered about the possibilities. Which frankly, also seem very far away as a possibility.
Sou'Wester Slabs has straightforward climbing, especially of you skip the 3 Tier Chimney. It does make for quite a long day though. I think it was my second multi-pitch route after Caliban's Creep the day before. It's also very good. If you want something easier on Arran Boundary Ridge in Coire Daingean is worthwhile.
If you want to do something shorter, with a shorter walk in there are plenty of options on the Cobbler or in Glen Coe.
Does anyone have anything exciting planned?
We're in Yorkshire for a week. Mostly climbing but might run a few hills.
You?
@spin - poor you, all those lovely mountains near home !
We're heading up to Teesdale for some relaxing walking and maybe some hybrid/gravel cafe routes. There will be cake (hopefully local Fat Rascals)
poor you, all those lovely mountains near home !
Ha ha, 😂
I've got amazing stuff on my doorstep but I love Yorkshire and I've spent a lot of time there over the years.
👍
Recently pretty muched finished the Anglesey coastal path, at least the bits that actually visit the coast.
It's a fantastic way to enjoy days when Snowdonia is clagged in.
Highlights for me were Newborough to Abermenai Point, out along the beach and back through the Warren.
Then Newborough to RAF Valley, my word, it's just magnificent.
The east coast from Beaumaris all the way up to Amlwch is equally inspiring, but a little muddy in winter. Some good coastal scrambling if you're that way inclined.
Amlwch to Hollyhead is wild, but worth it. Go to Parys Mountain, it might take a day to really explore the place but it's worth it.
The only bit we've not done is the North East. Next time.
Done most of the Lynn path as well, but a different story.
Damn everyone that got out yesterday, I ended up in bed for the whole day with headaches, sore throat/coughing, fatigue.
Didnt even get to climb Thursday either.
Whats even worse is that we dont automatically get bank holidays off, so I actually used time in lieu from working last weekend* for that. It at least seems to be improving at a fair pace.
On the plus side, I bought some trad gear (effectively the start of a rack), nothing exciting, just stuff for practising belay set ups (slings and biners). And am chatting with an MIC I know through work about a couple of days out.
Might manage a short walk and servicing the bikes but thatll be about all for today.
*Which is probably where ive picked this up from. Barstads.
I wouldnt complain piemonster after yesterday I feel like ive been hit by a car .. my knees are killing me
On Arran this weekend and went up Caisteal Abhail, absolutely stunning views, couple of golden eagles too
https://www.flickr.com/photos/92930588@N07/52802785290/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/92930588@N07/52802836853/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/92930588@N07/52801823017/in/dateposted-public/
/\/\ You can GTF with those pictures 🙃
Closest im getting is buying a guidebook.
Is that Sinister Gully or a more interesting Tryfan line?
Tryfan is a belter of a hill, no matter which direction you approach it from and the route you took is right up there as one of my favourite hill days.
Yep sinister gully up Bristly and across the pinnacle gap ..that let's say is exposed enough to make me have a wobble.
@matt_outandabout where is that first photo? Beautiful view with the Loch and the snowy tops
Matt is on the Drumochter hills with a view across to the very remote Beinn Alder.
Guidebook wise the new Scottish Rock Climbs from the SMC Wired range has really inspirational photos in it but it is a big tome and quite expensive. You could always take pics of the relevent pages. I did notice that the photo diagram of Dunkeld Cave Crag had the route I put the photo up for marked in the wrong place. Guidebooks always have mistakes, hopefully this one doesn't have too many more.
Thats actually the book arriving today (according to the tracking)
At this point Im really after an inspiration reference guide rather than a detailed pocket sized topo guide. And im sure I saw it weighs best part of a kilo!?
Anyway, still ill today, so everyone thats got out this weekend '**** you 😝'
a detailed pocket sized topo guide
That's what your phone is for! Either with the Rockfax app or a photo of the route.
Anyway, still ill today, so everyone thats got out this weekend ‘**** you
If it's any consolation it's pissing it down in Inverness right now. Did have a nice day soloing some easy routes at Reiff yesterday though! 🙂
As youre in the Highlands @Spin, how do you find the coverage with Rockfax?
I don't use the Rockfax app much in Scotland as I have all the relevant paper guides. As yet Rockfax coverage is pretty patchy in Scotland. Gary Latter's 2 volume guide to Scotland is a pretty good compromise between cost and coverage. Unless you're climbing pretty extensively in one area most people will not need more comprehensive guides.
@fazzini - beaten to it by Chickenman.
Not the most exciting of walking, but stunning views to the north. And a belter of a day.
*adds Afterthought Arete to the list
Ardverikie Wall at the back of Loch Laggan is possibly the best route of the grade in the country. A lot easier to get to than Arran plus you can cycle in most of the way. I'm not sure how easy it is to find gear and set up belays, I've not done it with a rope on so can't comment on it's suitability for a first multipitch route, but it's certainly less intimidating than some of the Glencoe routes at a similar grade.
Ardverickie Wall has been talked about (as a second).
UKC Logbook suggests some gear placement issues at times, which if you miss create a risk of ground fall.
Did Moelwyn Mawr above Blaenau at the weekend - really good. Looked like a nice road climb to the dam as well, a lot out doing it.
Did you park up for Tryfan @stevedoc or get the shuttle bus? Fancied the Glyders but didn't fancy the Alpine start necessary to park your car (seems like loads of argy bargy on that road with some new double yellows recently laid down).
We parked directly under Tryfan at 8am and we were lucky . Last time I went was a random Saturday in May and loads of spaces .I think a lot was caused by the fact is was the nicest day of the year so far and a bank holiday.
3 nice walks in the Peaks over Easter weekend, aside from walking up to Mam Tor to look at the Paragliders some smart timing and route choice meant crowds were minimised.
Looked like a nice road climb to the dam as well, a lot out doing it.
The famed Stwlan Dam climb.
First outdoor climb after work, first abseil too for a bonus point.
Felt pretty confident I could have lead the route too.
adds Afterthought Arete to the list
I must have done this 20+ times and it never fails to please. It can be combined with Final Selection to make an excellent day out. Probably best to abseil down to the bottom of Final Selection.
Yeh I was reading that would work as a follow up route, steep gully access from the plateau can be a bit exciting for Final Selection.
Afterthought Arete on paper makes a lot of sense, good rock, well protected, superb setting, some exposure but on relatively easy ground so I can focus more on experimenting the exposure without really at much risk of a fall.
Experimenting = experiencing
steep gully access from the plateau can be a bit exciting for Final Selection.
If you're not used to that sort of terrain it could be pretty scary. Very easy to ab in from the Afterthought Arete side of the gully then pick up the sling afterwards.
Would you have done Pygmy Ridge by any chance?
That's another route in the area I have my eyes on.
And for final selection, is the finish the corner on the inside of the second platform being used as a belay stance here?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=369277
Would you have done Pygmy Ridge by any chance?
I have. To be honest, most of the easier routes in that corrie aren't great. They are vegetated, often greasy and have quite a bit of loose rock. The approach to PR is up fairly unpleasant ground too.
And for final selection, is the finish the corner on the inside of the second platform being used as a belay stance here?
I think so, yes. There's one of me soloing it on UKC: https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=203908
It's not as steep as it looks and the holds are huge. Another one to look at in the Gorms is Crystal Ridge on Macdui
Ill park the Pgymy in that case.
Yeh, some of the top down photos of Final Selection show the gradient well from the climbers body positions, looks like a slab with plenty of big foot holds which is an ideal looking introductory type of route.
Is the protection making heavy use of Cams?
Is the protection making heavy use of Cams?
No idea, I've only ever soloed it!
It's pretty heavily featured so passive pro should be fine.
Ooh, finally I get to put a proper contribution onto this thread. Took a sneaky day off work yesterday to head into Wales for a walk up Y Garn and the hills to the north of there. It was blowing a cold wind from the east so was a little chilly on the tops, but wall to wall sunshine all day made up for it.
^ Llyn Clyd in the cwm immediately below Y Garn
^ The path that contours below Foel Goch, heading for Mynydd Perfedd
^ Elidir Fawr, and the sun picking out the Pillar of Elidir on the north face
I've romped around that area plenty in the past, but my quads clearly aren't what they used to be, and walking downstairs this morning is rather more challenging than what it ought to be.
Not hill walking but shows hills, we walked quite a bit and there are plenty of climbers on here so I reckon it's legit!
A fantastic day soloing at Reiff.
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Some phone photos from the Uldale Fells last Sunday
Anyone got a good weekend in the hills planned?
Probably running somewhere between Caithness and Skye on Sunday but not sure where. If the forecast improves on Monday I should get a half day on the Cuillin.
Did the round of Coire Lair last Saturday which was great as always. No photos though!
we'll be with family in Shropshire so no big days on the hills
Think we'll tick Sca Fell at the weekend - can anyone advise on a route? Fancy Lord's rake up and then perhaps down to Foxes Tarn and back around?
Coming down the massive flank of it towards Burnmoor tarn doesn't look that interesting but is prob the simple option if the weather isn't great (forecast looks pretty mid).
I reckon the Lakes will be packed at the weekend. I’m sneaking over to the North York moors instead.
@Garry_Lager - assuming you're starting in Wasdale. I think Piers Gill - Lingmell Col - Broad Stand - Foxes Tarn would be a quieter way up.
If you're in the Keswick area and you want a decent hill and a relatively quiet route Skiddaw via Ullock Pike is a good day out and less busy than Scafell area. Lot of descent options back to the car from the top
Thanks @ElShalimo - think we will do Wasdale start, some options to think about there.
We did Skiddaw and Ullock not long ago but on a cloudy day, so one to revisit (for me, my kids complain if I suggest doing stuff they're already been up).
There's a few big drops off the path into Piers Gill, so be careful with the kids if they're youngish
It's nowt dangerous but does require common sense and maybe some hand holding - no running with hand in pockets or whilst carrying scissors sort of stuff
Have fun!!!
Scafell was pretty good this weekend past - very misty so wasn't too encouraging for views when we set out. Busy up to Hollow stones but then empty once on the right hand fork. Lord's rake really made the walk, kids loved it, and then once up top the weather cleared and it was a beautiful descent in late afternoon sun to Wasdale.
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Near disaster on the summit, though - my boot un-soled! They're 17 years old and I've just been taking them for granted, hadn't really clocked that they were on their last legs. Daughter's hair bobble round the foot kept it together and it was no prob walking down.
Pair of Meindls and I think I'd buy the same again tbh - been really comfy.
I was definitely in the right place at the right time yesterday. An afternoon
and evening Cuillin.
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Great photos!
Was that Bruach na Frithe (sp?) and Am Basteir?
Was that Bruach na Frithe (sp?) and Am Basteir?
Pretty much. I did a bit of a figure of eight loop, up Pinnacle Ridge on Gillean, cut across and up The Spur on Sgurr an Fheadain (just above the Fairy Pools) then back across Bidean Druim nan Ramh to Bruach na Frithe and down off it to Sligachan.
Looks like you had a fantastic day out !
Sadly I've not been up on the ridge for about 6/7 years.
We scored a perfect day on Nevis on Saturday, a birthday gift from my mum and sister booking a guide for Tower Ridge (I don't get out on the hills much at the moment, it's a real treat having someone else do all the thinking and route finding! 😂).
Descended by Ledge Route. An absolutely classic day out 😎
Looks like a great day, who guided you?
Dave at Lochaber Guides, think he was on his fifty-somethingth ascent of Tower Ridge! Good guy, lots of chat, kept things simple and efficient, made sure we got the most out of the day. He does fairly regular Cuillin traverses also 👍
Fantastic 4FM, looks awesome!.
Not been on here for over a year now, specifically popped back on to have a look and see if my thread was still going, glad to see it is. I was over on the usual at the weekend, Arran, pretty much perfect day on A'Chir ridge, amazing place.
Went as part of the Arran Mountain Festival, really wanted a look at it, I'll go do it unroped next time.
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@Nobeeninthefridge - pics no worky.
I love A'chir ridge. In fact all Arran hills are ace.
Fixed Matt!
Correction - pics now worky.
pretty much perfect day on A’Chir ridge, amazing place.
What way did you go? Going up the 'Mauvais Pas' is much easier than going down.
Went down it, although the mountain festival risk assessment meant we were roped, sadly. I'll go back and do it N to S sans hardware next time. 😁
Dreish & Mayar from Glen Clova.
Totally got away with the weather.
Great photos. Did that walk a long time ago. It's lovely
We were walking in the Forest of Bowland at the weekend. I'd forgotten how tough the terrain can be. My legs are feeling it today
Same here - I used to ache the day after, but it seems to take longer now and it is two days after my legs can feel it!
A lovely part of the world, although the tops are rather barren and 'managed grouse moor for decades'...
Abseiling down to Final Selection, although i do not think you do it, do you have any idea of what the set up for that would be? I dont think theres any tat.
There are plenty of blocks to choose from on the opposite side of the gully from FS. There's no tat because you can pick up the sling after doing the route. Ab in directly opposite FS so that all you need to do is cross the gully.
Nice cheers Spin
Torridon yesterday. It was alright if you like that sort of thing. Surely I wasn't the only one on here to get out in that nice weather?
Polney Crag for some beginners multi pitch, nae fotos, got too immersed to even think about it.
Polney Crag for some beginners multi pitch,
What did you do? And more importantly, when are you doing the Afterthought Arête/Final Selection combo?
Anon, Holly Tree Groove and Kestrel Crack and some Abseil learning, its was a "dope on a rope" day with an aspirant MCI, so more learning than mileage.
AA and hopefully FS are hopefully last weekend of this month. Technically, should be all fine and dandy, just need to see how I cope with the additional exposure.
Much of the aircraft left up there now?
Quite a bit but it's well scattered. Still need to climb over a wheel and propeller in Fuselage Gully.
Spin, is that one of the routes on the Far East Buttress, Sumo or something?
Yesterday’s early morning jaunt up Ben More and great panoramic views across the isles and mountains
A day out on the southern Cuillin munros. Mrs Chickenman, a friend of ours and a stray we picked up at Coire Ghrunnda did the two summits of Sgurr nan Eag and Sgurr Dubh Mor. Often thought to be amongst the easier group of munro summits on the ridge it was interesting to do those hills with folk who've done the obvious hard ticks on the ridge but are not really happy at all on rough terrain, this pair of hills even if not too technically hard are just remorselessly rough and hard going. we needed a rope to downclimb the scrambling on Sgurr Dubh Mor. It was a very, very long day!
Just glad it wasn't us they were looking for!
Extraordinary house sized piece of peridotite.
