What should you upgrade on your mountain bike?

The rider...

so brakes, suspension, cockpit, dropper, gearing, tyres and wheels ?

@weeksy then frame 😛

I disagree with this biggest rotor you can fit business..i think you should only do this if you find the limits of what you already have.. at 80kg i still find the control of a 180/160 rotor and shimano 4 pot spot on. I've never tried running larger mind but i fear that wont give me the finer control

first things first, innertube chainstay wrap.

My first upgrade is almost always an XT shifter. Long press for multiple shifts is ace, and riding anything with Deore or *spit* Sram feels insanely annoying afterwards.

Wheels are the one and only place that it is worth saving weight on

would argue that cassettes these days potentially are sources of weight savings given the size of modern 12 spd mountain ones.

probably not worth it for the sake of it, but when its time for a drivetrain replacement, the higher end versions can save hundreds of grams off the unsprung mass (on a full suss bike) compared to the base model.

A saddle that fits.

Swap the saddle for a comfy one and then whatever wears out of breaks first.

I am usually so broke after a new (to me) bike that I have to wear out the crappy parts and replace when worn...

Shed or garage security?

If I bought a Bossnut then I might have to put a smaller chainring on for my old legs here on the edge of the Peak District, other than that I’d wait until things wore out and scour the Merlin double page, very small print, advert in MBUK and give them a ring….

Definitely wheels as the number one upgrade for me, followed by my preferred saddle, bar, and grips.

Brands that spec decent wheelsets are few and far between.

Lets be honest though, I havent bought a full bike since 2016. Even when I get tempted and look at the big discounts these days I see them as a collection of parts bundled with the frame I want, start working out what bits I want/need, whats being transfered from the old bike, whats staying as a spare and what needs to be sold.

Not sure we are the target of the article.

first things first, innertube chainstay wrap.

Mastic tape FTW

I used to upgrade because I was young and had cash for such things. Now I wear things out and replace where possible from the parts bin, and in extremis scour the merlin double page spread in mbuk and crack on with lx or some such good value mid spec parts.

(wheelsonfire1  - ah, the heady days of double page spread ordering. I don't think I could read that small print now!)

 disagree with this biggest rotor you can fit business

My five started with a 203mm front and rear. Had to take the rear down a size.

With the 203, as soon as you looked at the rear brake, the wheel had locked up and the suspension folded under brake jack.

My five also came with appalling OEM Rubber Queens, which were utter crap. Moving over to proper aftermarket tyres made a world of difference. Tyres first, always.

I kinda went the other way and looked at what I could downgrade, to simplify stuff. Never been a happier rider. One of my bikes recntly went from SS to 10s Deore and it's amazing what gears can do. Ignorance is bliss.

Wheels are the one and only place that it is worth saving weight on

Isn't it worth 2.5x the weight saved on the frame? : )

alan1977
Free Member

I disagree with this biggest rotor you can fit business..i think you should only do this if you find the limits of what you already have.. at 80kg i still find the control of a 180/160 rotor and shimano 4 pot spot on. I’ve never tried running larger mind but i fear that wont give me the finer control

I think everyone should <try> it at least. It might be better, it might not but it's quick and cheap enough to experiment for sure.

For a suspension upgrade (if you're not happy with its current performance) try fitting a TruTune insert rather than a whole new fork - you might be pleasantly surprised 🙂

+1 on TruTune

Not quite as good as a coil fork, but good enough that I've stopped thinking about getting a coil conversion for my Zeb.

Wheels and tires for the weight saving.
Saddle, grips and pedals for comfort and enjoyment.
The best shifter you can afford.

so brakes, suspension, cockpit, dropper, gearing, tyres and wheels ?

I think they just said service the forks and and add a smaller chain ring

Coaching for the soft bit on the top

Sell it, and buy a rigid singlespeed bike, and with the money left over you can buy plenty beer.

Furthermore you can now take up racing in singlespeed events, and you will be amazed at how your athletic ability has improved so much that you come in 4th equal despite your recently acquired beer belly. 🙂

Also it will keep you fit and toned into your late 70s...