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Apologies if this has been asked somewhere else but I couldn't see anything recent.
I'm using an old Stumpjumper hardtail on the trainer, its pretty much a dedicated trainer bike I doubt if it will see the outdoors again. Is it worth fitting a set of drops to it. Taped bars that let me use different hand positions seems like a good idea for longer sessions? Presumably i'd want a shorter stem too?
I barely if ever ride on the drops on the turbo, and I'm a fairly dedicated roadie who does BC races and TTs when I'm outdoors.
However, I do spend a lot of time on the hoods. You could emulate that position by putting some old school XC barends inboard of your grips.
As @finbar suggests. No point in drops really, but a range of positions helps on longer sessions. I actually have a set of tri-bars on my indoor setup at the moment.
I use an old CX bike and find the drops good to change position - spend majority of time on the hoods though.
Rich, i have a Wattbike, and i spend most of my time on the hoods and the rest on the tri-bars, very rarely do I use the drops. Bar ends could be handy to give you some more variety on hand position ?
I use ALL the bars on the turbo, but I seem to struggle more with long easy sessions than some, even 90 minutes Z2 indoors has me constantly fidgeting around and changing positions (although on the plus side I'm REALLY dialling in my saddle position). I've got aero clip-ons fitted too now.
I guess try it and see, there's probably some mental/physical toughness to be gained from staying in one position that could be transferred to long days outdoors...
It might help if you're having hand problems as the hoods is a more natural position for my wrists but otherwise I'd not bother. An easier compromise that wouldn't involve new shifters would be some butterfly bars off a touring bike.
Drop bars only exist because they are aero, which obviously isn't an issue on a trainer. On the drops you actually generate less power due to the biomechanics, but on the road this is offset by the increase in aerodynamic efficiency. I think you are better off with flat bars and bar ends, as long as you're not talking about ridiculous 800mm wide ones. If you want to fit something, go for 700mm ish I reckon, you could try those wide ergo grips with the built-in bar-ends, this gives you a nice platform and since you don't have to worry about braking or your hands slipping off you can just rest your palms on.
I think I gained a few watts when I started using my wife's hybrid, which on the road would be a fairly slow bike. Now she's taken it back I'm back on my road bike and I use the flat tops most of the time, sometimes going to the corners - I barely use the hoods at all.
Also use track mitts.
Drop bars only exist because they are aero, which obviously isn’t an issue on a trainer. On the drops you actually generate less power due to the biomechanics, but on the road this is offset by the increase in aerodynamic efficiency.
That's true to an extent, but partially it's because you train yourself to ride in a certain position.
If you tilt your saddle forwards and train yourself to ride in the drops for a few hours a week, you'll get better at riding in the drops. If you ride in an MTB position then you'll get better at riding in an MTB position.
I spent a fair few hours early last summer at the Velodrome on a track bike (i.e on a bike with only one position, there are no hoods and riding on the tops gets you shouted at because it's dangerous) and noticed I was definitely riding more efficiently on the road the rest of the summer because I'd gone from tolerating the drops if I had to do a turn and / or into headwinds to them becoming the default position except on steep climbs.
I'm now back to being lazy again but it does work (and I'll be back at the track next month to work on it again).
Also use track mitts.
What? Why?
i have a Wattbike, and i spend most of my time on the hoods and the rest on the tri-bars, very rarely do I use the drops
I fitted the tri bar pads to my watt bike when I was in a cast (and was using it with sort reach) but as soon as I could ride normally again I found they stopped me riding on the hoods - the edge of the pad support would be rubbing my wrist. and couldn't really ride with hands on the straight bit of the bar either. So have just removed them again. They don't seem to have any adjustment options - am I doing something wrong?
never even thought about getting on the drops on the turbo, probably use them the majority of the time on the road IRL though! Agree that bar-ends could be a good compromise.
Ergon bar ends +/- tri bars would be my suggestion
I fitted the tri bar pads to my watt bike when I was in a cast (and was using it with sort reach) but as soon as I could ride normally again I found they stopped me riding on the hoods – the edge of the pad support would be rubbing my wrist. and couldn’t really ride with hands on the straight bit of the bar either. So have just removed them again. They don’t seem to have any adjustment options – am I doing something wrong?
i guess it may just be your body shape/shoulders ? I am pretty average size and shape and don't find the edge of the pad support to be an obstruction at all. I find the pads good obviously when in the tribars, and I also use them if I'm having a rest and sit up and just put the palms of my hands on the pads.
My indoor set-up initially had a set of flat XC handlebars with ergonomic bar-ends on them. I would quickly get uncomfortable and the grips/ends would become a sweaty, slippery mess. I changed to drop-bars and MUCH prefer them. Loads of hand positions and the tape does a good job of absorbing the moisture.
Also use track mitts.
Cheap track mitts, because they will end up minging.
Also, if you are going to put drop bars on, you'll need something to catch the sweat, as sweat-corroded bars under the bar tape are foul
I was thinking of swapping to a flat bar bike on my rollers but after seeing Spoon's comments, maybe I should be training myself to use the drops more instead of riding the hoods everywhere.
I find it easier to stay at higher cadence that zwift sometimes specifies in workouts for longer on the drops
Taped Butterfly bars seem like the best balance of a bit more comfort, multiple hand position and not worrying about where the MTB shifter goes
I thought about getting a pair of drop bar extensions for my hybrid on the turbo, to fit my Zwift Play controllers properly.
But I could do with putting my road bike on the turbo, to get used to the hoods/drops position ahead of the outddor season (my arms and shoulders got sore very quickly last spring after barely using my road bike in '23) and fit the Zwift Play.
It then means I can have my hybrid ready for short outdoor rides before spring, because realistically, the odds of popping out on the road bike during winter are pretty low.
I should be training myself to use the drops more instead of riding the hoods everywhere.
Maybe not actually. How often do you see pros in the drops now? (clue: not as much as you used to). The "aero hoods" position is proven faster. It's just as awkward/tough on your arms as riding in the drops (more so for me) so definitely worth working on!
UCI road bike position aerodynamics
FWIW I don't use any sort of glove/mitt on the trainer. I also have carbon bars fitted (I've seen what happens to aluminium).
As regards "getting used to the drops", that's very much an individual thing but the best tip I can suggest is to do a lot of core work over the winter so you can handle dropped bars without so much pain. Also - learn (even indoors) not to ride with locked out elbows. That will improve core strength and comfort.
The “aero hoods” position is proven faster. It’s just as awkward/tough on your arms as riding in the drops (more so for me) so definitely worth working on!
True! I actually use drops almost just as 'second best' aero when I want a break from aero hoods.
It helps if it matches your normal riding setup if you are training as some of the training is ability to hit power numbers in position. Common for testers (TT) to train in the aero position for this reason. Given I switch bikes all the time (commute, gravel, road, mtb) it has never really bothered me. Some people it matters.
I'd look at what is cost effective. drop bars means the shifter might not fit. I'd have though bar ends or drop bar ends would be the immediate obvious choice. Other weird shaped bars are an option. You can probably tape whatever you put on there if you prefer that to bar end grips.
I use the drops for sprinting on the trainer. I'm unsure if it helps or hinders my power, but it feels more comfortable.
FWIW I don’t use any sort of glove/mitt on the trainer. I also have carbon bars fitted (I’ve seen what happens to aluminium).
IIRC... Carbon is worse than aluminium. Something about the carbon and steel (lever clamp?) being at opposite ends of some spectrum; one becomes an annode, the other a cathode, add in some sweat and you have a battery. This then eats away the carbon (annode?). I remember it being explained but chemistry is far from my strongest subject!!
Edit...
Here we go
I sold my road bike in the summer, and put my old hybrid on the turbo didn’t like the hand position so decided to put drops on, then bought some sora shifters now I appear to have a gravel bike and it’s amazing.
If I’d got an old mtb I’d be converting that to a monster cross bike, it’s cost me less than £100 (I had some cable disc callipers in a box) so far anyway, chainset is next to go.
I’d definitely recommend a budget stupid bike.
I use the varying hand positions on drop bars when I’m pretending to be different pros during a workout. Being MvdP got me through a tough VO2max session this week