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I've got it on but when it's put into the biggest sprocket/lowest gear the teeth on the sprocket rubs on the jockey wheels and actually get stuck in there so i can't change down again.
It's fine up and down in all the higher sprockets, it's a 34t cassette and the stops are set properely, the b tension screw doesn't seem to do much about it either???
any tips???
ta
How much chain have you got on?
11-34 or 11-32?
I am using 11-32 and its just missing it fine
Are you sure it's fitted correctly?
It's possible that the B screw is no pushing against the the flat part of the hanger, therefore not doing much
The info you need is near the [url= http://www.exchangecycletours.org/rdadjustment.htm ]bottom[/url]
A pic would help to confirm that the mech is actually fitted correctly, as the Shadow mech has a hinged B pivot. It really sounds as if the b-tension is not adjusted properly, particularly as you are running a 34t cassette, so the 34t cog will be closer to the guide pulley than normal.
I'd try refitting the mech, making sure that the b-tension screw when wound up, actually contacts the flat section on the rear of the mech hanger.
Kona TC - those instructions are very comprehensive !
I agree, it should be the 'b tension' screw. It may be possible that the chain is too long, but unlikely.
thanks guys, sorry for delay, i posted then went sledging
anyway, i'm pretty sure it's fitted ok and you're right, i have readjusted the b screw so it doesn't rub, the problem now is that the mech is quite far away from the cassette when in the highest gear. I haven't been out to test it but it seems a less than ideal compromise???
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It looks OK to me. I fitted a shadow recently and thought the same - it didn't stay close to all the sprockets on the cassette, especially the small ones, even with the correct adjusment at the largest. Deffinately different to my conventional mech set ups.
Mines running OK, but I probably don't use the smallest 2 sprockets very often.
Real testing is the only thing, and as you found, you've got to have it adjusted to the largest sprocket or else there are problems.
Something else that can affect this, but not often recognised, is the length of the outer cable feeding the mech. If it's too short it can limit how far the mech can pivot forward.This usually stops the B tension adjuster moving the wheels closer rather than further out, but may still be worth checking out.
I threw my shadow mech in the bin. It only worked properly for about three rides then it started shadow shifting. Then it got itself bent a little bit and was never the same after that. So I went back to med. cage rapid rise which I reckon is 400 million times better. feels like I've got my bike back too.
coatsey - that's a very good point, I've learnt something there, thank you.
keva - not sure what the point of your post is, but the author of this thread was asking for assistance in setting up his rear mech, not opinions on them.
thanks folks, yeh the only real test will be out on the trail, i'll check the outer length as i did shorten it but i may of shortened it too much.
IIRC, SRAM recommend a gap of 6mm between the top of the guide pulley and the largest cog. Shimano say something like one complete chain link (ie an inner and outer link) between the two. I can't really see much in that pic - I appear to have mislaid my magnifying glass 😉