[Closed] XT / 30t - No chain guide fits?

Stinger?

I have a 28t NSB chainring fitted to my M8000 cranks. Admittedly this is slightly different to the Shimano chainrings, and mounts to the granny ring bolt holes, but it works perfectly with the OneUp Components guide.

For reference it is this ring:

https://northshorebillet.com/collections/chainrings/products/1x-96-bcd-variable-tooth-chainrings-for-xt-m8000?variant=11447178433

And this guide:

https://int.oneupcomponents.com/products/bashguide-iscg05

The problem is that the tabs for the chainrings extend to almost half the thickness of the chain - do I need to sack it and go for 32t or a new crank?

There's an Xtr chain guide, can't remember if Xtr cranks have a similar difficulty with fitting stuff but might be worth a look.

To backup what edd says above:  https://www.pinkbike.com/news/north-shore-billet-shimano-xt-chainrings-2016.html - looks like you can get a smaller ring and mount just as he says, so it should allow you to run a chainguide. I run a 32t oval on my cranks and it looks like chainguide should fit ok, but since they're on my hardtail I don't bother with one.

NW 30t RF ring and XT clutch. Still dropping chains on long fast rocky descents.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Shorter chain and more tension in the clutch?

Also look here:  https://www.blackspire.com/product/snaggletooth-shimano-slx-m7000xt-m8000/

Looks like they use tabs to inset the chainring slightly so a chainguide should still work ok

It's a 10 speed XT Crank.

So as below. In fact I also have the RF ring in the same size. So apart from some heel rub that's exactly my situation.

Xt m8000 with 30 tooth and Mrp fits fine on my bike.

Could it be your chain guide tabs?

I thought the minimum recommended chain ring size on the 10 speed cranks were 32, at least without resorting to spacers or grinding the back of the tabs - it's why I swapped my old style SLX for the newer asymmetric pattern ones - can now run 32t oval or 30t with no problems.

Nice direct mount chainring / cranks would be a nice solution here, money no object.

From the picture it looks like you’re limited as to how close you can run the chainguide due to the crank spider arms. Although thinking about my OneUp one you should be able to run a top guide pretty close anyway and would be surprised the chain could still jump out.

I've got nw 10 speed and nw 11 speed, neither has a guide, haven't dropped a chain in forever, is there something else wrong here?

Neither had I until I started riding more natural terrain like the lakes and trying to ride it fast. I'd never dropped on a trail centre before, for example.

If I took a link out I'd have a load of drag in the 40t, and my clutch is recently serviced and tightened.

I've used One Up and MRP guides with shimano cranks. I find you can force the chain off in the shed, but that it's fine when actually riding. Both guides work better than a couple of others I've tried.

I always use a chain device, even with narrow wide rings. Partly because the chain never comes off until you really don't want it to (and then it always does) and partly because I really like having a bash guard. The damage to the guard suggests I'm clumsy enough to need one.

What size seat tube is it? You can get simple guides like the ones on Genesis Tarns. Hardly bombproof, but a little extra security?

dremmel the topguide