[Closed] Would you buy a (new) fatbike for ~£1k?

For me it was basically upgradability/potential... the Dune's better at the core, the "fat bike specific" bits are better. The Fatty is better out of the box probably but doesn't have the same potential- the fat bike bits aren't as good and it's all a bit less "current".

2 reasonable approaches tbh, the Dune cuts corners on easily replaced bits but has the heart of a much better bike if you put in a little effort, the Fatty covers all the bases but that means it can't cover some of the important ones as well. Or, that's what made me choose what I did anyway.

Re the tyres, yep the JJs are pretty seasonal but they're also high quality and worth good money if you don't like em. You could almost get a pair of Floaters for what you'll get selling one JJ! Or, buy something else. So point to the Dune there I think

thenorthwind,the Dune is 2x8, not 2x10.

So it is. Bit of a strange choice.

Drivetrain and finishing kit is better on the fatty

Can't really argue with that. An upgrade to 2x10 notwithstanding, I'm not sure there's anything I'd immediately change on the Dune that I wouldn't on the Fatty. I guess that's personal preference.

So the upgradability and lower price (even with the 25% discount on the Fatty) wins it for me at the moment.

To be hoenst, if i was buying again now i would of gone for the Dune. Sadly it wasnt available at he time. I have upgraded nearly everything on my OOF. I am now waiting for Smokestone to release their frame which should be released in April. Luckily all my parts will swap over just the rear hub which will require new end caps.

thenorthwind - Member

Bit of a strange choice.

Very very cheap, and functional. You'd rather have 2x10 but what other bits of the spec do you want to drop to do that?

The ali fork, overall weight difference (3.5kg on paper), tapered headset, bolt-thru dropouts and marginally less offensive colour are pushing me towards the Dune.
What am I missing?

3.5kg between OOF and Dune? Wasn't an steel forked OOF quoted at 16.7 and a Dune actually about 14.6, so more like 2.1 reducing to 1.5 with the carbon fork?

Very very cheap, and functional. You'd rather have 2x10 but what other bits of the spec do you want to drop to do that?

I realise it's all about cost.

I would have thought the small price premium would have been worth it, but I guess it's a case of (if I can be a bit snobbish) it being marketed at people who just want a fun bike that goes rather than your, shall we say, more discerning STW set.

So thought i would post some updated pics of my OOF now, i have spent more than a grand on her, but happy with how she now sits and rides. As my above post waiting for The new Smokestone frames to be launched which will save a bit of weight, support my LBS and are shaping up to be a great option. I have recently fitted the Aeffect cranks and a Absolute black Oval ring, with 11 speed XT. Tiny 26t chainring means The thing could climb a wall, but i do run out of gears on long flat fire roads, which is fine by me. Disapointed that the cranks have after 3 rides started to show significant heal rub! But what can you do!

Wheels are BR710's on hope Fatsno Pro 2's tubeless with Surley Nates 120tpi front and rear. Everyone raves on about the nate, but i find them very draggy so tempted to try something slightly faster rolling on the rear. Maybe once this current sloppy waether system passes and things harden up a little.

[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]

If you had time, then I would advise buying a nice frame and just building it up to the spec that you want.
The only reason to buy a complete bike is if you want to ride it ASAP.

I bought a Fatty Trail frame for half price and I plan to build that up as a race bike with the spec I want, within my limited budget though, so it may take a month or two before its finished.

I paid 497 for my dune with a discount code. I added a 63 pair of deore brakes from merlin And a pair of used but near new floaters for 40 delivered.so all in bang on 600 and I've a great lightweight pair of tyres for the summer. A much better deal than the on one I think.

If I swapped to xt m8000 1x11 and a superstar ring it's still less than 800 all in for a fully sorted bike.

I've seen the stock jumbo jims sold on for 80 a pair so that would even it out even more. But I want mine for the summer as they fly on hardpack

3.5kg between OOF and Dune? Wasn't an steel forked OOF quoted at 16.7 and a Dune actually about 14.6, so more like 2.1 reducing to 1.5 with the carbon fork?

Knock off the daft On-One tubes (another 700g saved), and the fact the Jumbo Jims are useless apart from in the summer, so you'll need some, errrr, floaters? And you're pretty much level. I suspect the carbon forks probably offset the added O-O frame weight (and you can lose weight drilling the fatty rims, making it lighter still). OTOH, 8 speed cassette, taper BB and cranks can't be light, and you can buy the O-O fork separately. On the whole I think the weight of either is probably comparable.

Front hubs, mehhh. If a £400 bluto was an option, then a £30 hub and £10 of spokes is neither hear nor there. Rear hubs, 170mm is designed to run with 100mm BB's, 190mm with 120mm and 4"/5" tyres respectively. Now for me the advantage is with 170mm as it allows the narrower Q-factor as I've no real desire to build a bike for specifically riding on fresh snow, I'd like a Lou for winter, but it's a compromise I can live with. I doubt 170mm hubs will disappear so that's not a worry.

The brakes are undeniable though, despite their old reputation they've been faultless for me (and I've killed 2 previous sets of Avids and a pair of Shimano XT's, and the fat bike give the brakes one heck of a beating with all that grip), the DB5's are as powerfull as any other brake and reliable. And we're comparing to no-name mechanicals.

They're both stonkingly good value by the looks of it. If the Dune fits, and maybe you have a spare set of finishing kit and gears, and budget for some wintery tyres then there's a fag packet between them. The Dune might even please some people with an axe to grind against O-O pr P-X, although you're buying from a shop that's (as noted on a previous page when someone went to pick theirs up) unlikely to know which way round the forks go so.........

If you're not 'small' then TBH I don't know why you'd buy the Dune over a choice of Fatty sizes. Yes I could probably squeeze onto a small frame at 6ft, but once wound upto speed the long wheelbase of the Fatty regularly comes into it's own.

Russy that's one of the nicest On one fatty's I've, I do like that.

The 2x8 on my Dune I've found really works much better than I expected, If I didn't get such a good deal on some 1x10 stuff I'd have happily kept it until it wore out.
The brakes really are pants though, but the ability to fit a bluto straight away tipped me towards the Dune as I couldn't justify buying the Fatty Trail.

The classic fatty only comes in boring white, much prefer my neon chubby 🙂

Nice, russyh! I thought the Fatty wasn't Bluto-compatible (straight headtube, tapered steer I assumed) or was that the earlier Fatty frame?

If you had time, then I would advise buying a nice frame and just building it up to the spec that you want.
The only reason to buy a complete bike is if you want to ride it ASAP.

I'd like to do that (mainly as I like building bikes) but if I'd did that I'd still put fairly basic parts to keep the cost down, and it would still work out more expensive. I'd rather have a whole bike, and upgrade stuff when it breaks/gets annoying/comes up cheap second hand. Much the approach firestarter has taken by the sound of it.

I like the look of the Fatty trail frame though.

Jumbo Jims are useless apart from in the summer

ime it takes appreciably longer for them to let go compared to thin tyres and it can be quite entertaining to provoke a long-drawn out slide

As you were.

Thanks Nick, I dont mind the white. It has a nice pearlescent flip to it. But wouldn't be my first or even second choice. Hence why i went custom decal's. Like i say when Smokestone launch the Henderson I will be placing an order. I have seen it through the development process and Slamman knows fatty's! Plus it has some descent features like stealth reverb routing. Have to be honest its taken me longer than others to really like the fatbike. After upgrading to Bluto i really felt i had lost the initial charm, but as i get more miles under my belt I am really pleased with how the bike now rides. I still need to develop my technique as on tight switch backs or fast corners i dont carry enough speed so find the bike slow compared to my other normal bike. But appreciate thats me, needing to learn the specifics of riding a fatty. As per usual for me what started out as a cheap winter play thing has escalated quickly into an upgrade fest. But I do like having something unique to me and when riding with other fatty's they are great fun.

Nice, russyh! I thought the Fatty wasn't Bluto-compatible (straight headtube, tapered steer I assumed) or was that the earlier Fatty frame?

Nope always been tapered i believe. My firs V1 Fatty frame was tapered but cracked. My V2 (this bike) is all but the same other than the new Seat tube and different brake mount. Slam69 do loads of custom OOF, in custom paint jobs to. CHeck out his facebook page.

I did mine myself, i couldn't afford to BUild on all at once straight from the bat, so just upgraded over a few months. That way i could enjoy the bike and understand what i wanted to change.

Jumbo Jims are useless apart from in the summer

They work quite well on ice with gravel in it
ime it takes appreciably longer for them to let go compared to thin tyres and it can be quite entertaining to provoke a long-drawn out slide

As you were.

I don't mind the JJ's I've gone with a floater on the front and kept the JJ on the back. JJ gripped a lot better than some of the comments had be believing.

Nice, russyh! I thought the Fatty wasn't Bluto-compatible (straight headtube, tapered steer I assumed) or was that the earlier Fatty frame?

Fatty forks are straight steerer, the frame is tapered.

To allow them to fit the other fat bikes that were around at the same time, same logic with the 135mm hub, it's what everyone used until the bluto appeared.

thisisnotaspoon - Member

If you're not 'small' then TBH I don't know why you'd buy the Dune over a choice of Fatty sizes. Yes I could probably squeeze onto a small frame at 6ft, but once wound upto speed the long wheelbase of the Fatty regularly comes into it's own.

The Dune's the same length as a medium Fatty- the large is only 15mm longer because of weird on one geometry increments. Neither is a long bike really. The only dimension on the Dune that's really "small" is the seat tube so I think that gives the wrong impression.

But for sure, the choice of sizes is a big advantage.

Ordered three lightweight tubes... stupidly ordered presta. Do I need to return them or will they be okay for rims drilled for Schraeder. I don't want to take them out of their boxes if I have to return them...

The ali fork, overall weight difference (3.5kg on paper), tapered headset, bolt-thru dropouts and marginally less offensive colour are pushing me towards the Dune.
What am I missing?

3.5kg between OOF and Dune? Wasn't an steel forked OOF quoted at 16.7 and a Dune actually about 14.6, so more like 2.1 reducing to 1.5 with the carbon fork?

If you're worried about weight and only looking at a £1k budget maybe fat biking isn't for you.

Don't worry about the weight because if you get hooked on fat biking then you will need deep pockets for upgrades of a new bike.

Here's my 3rd fat bike since 2010
[img] [/img]

If you're worried about weight and only looking at a £1k budget maybe fat biking isn't for you.

To be fair John, I was comparing the weight of a £575-10% Dune with a £899-25% Fatty (£775 with carbon fork), both substantially less than £1000 and many enjoy their fat biking that way I am sure.

I was just making the point that the overall weight difference was less than the 3.5 kg stated by the poster I quoted, and 1.5 kg less with a saving of £200 might be worth knowing!

Can anybody tell me the exact spec of the Dune's bb please?

Thanks

Alex I've the same tubes in the same rims the little metal screw on retainer pops in the Valve hole to secure it. You can't even tell

Hey Alex, I've bought these schrader to presta valve hole shim/convertor/reducer for bike/cycle wheel/rim http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381525094073 and then will use the normal locking ring.

Ta both!

My OO Fatty with carbon fork came in at 15.24kg when it arrived.
I think I managed to drop over 2kg by drilling rims, swapping tubes, bars, stem, seat post, saddle and other wee bits and pieces.
I'd probably lose another 1kg if I put JJ's on, so quite easy to make it pretty light with just basic cheap mods.

I am in the process of building up a Fatty Trail to be a race bike, so I'll be quite interested to see how light I can get that using the standard Fatty wheels.

On the subject of fatty's....

Trying to find a front fender/mudguard for a Specialized Fatboy Pro. Has the Bluto fitted and got the muddy nutz fat face fender, but does'nt fit with the bluto and 4.6 inch tyres. Guys at LeisureLakes said that one of them had it fitted, but with the carbon fork. Did'nt think there was one that fitted with the Bluto

Any recommendations?

I've put a shockboard in mine just now- it's a crown mounted guard so tyres usualyl won't make a difference, unless it bottoms out into the guards. It's pretty narrow though, for the job- it catches the worst spray and most water spray but it probably only stops half the thrown mud. Not ideal, but cheap, and I reckon probably better than the fat face (I made my own along those lines, it was sort of alright but it doesn't have the length, 1 ride in snowmelt and it got relegated to summer)

lightman - Member

Northwind, I linked to the exact post.
This one -

Ah, sorry Lightman, I missed this post. When I clicked on your original link it doesn't take me to the post with that pic, weird. Does that take up space in the rim? The Dune rim is pretty deep in the middle so there's a massive air gap without foam, the shrinkwrap looks like it'd have the same issue but I'd be well pleased if it works...

Thats the good thing with the packing/shrink wrap, it doesn't matter how deep your rim is, you pull it tight when you put it on and it just stretches across the rim and wont sink into the rim until you put the tyre on and start pumping it up, and then it will get pushed down and seal the whole rim.

I have now done both my OO Fatty wheels, Clownshoe and just did my Rolling Darrly a few days ago.
All of them went on and up without any problems at all.

I have loads of packing wrap and Im in Porty, you're welcome to come down and I'll show you how its done 🙂

Ah that's very cool, need to try this... I've got some packing wrap which I think is more or less the same stuff. What's the purpose of the foam, in this? The DUne rims have a pretty good bead fit (they need foam in the middle but none at the edge) so I'm not too sure about adding extra stuff there...

Oh- does it [i]keep[/i] working? The big practical drawback of the foam (apart from weight obviously compared to this) is that the foam compresses so what works on day one, then needs redone with more foam after a while to fit another tyre. I get the impression that the shrinkwrap will end up permanently blown out? Or, does it pop back out so it'll mount the next tyre?

(if it needs redone, no big deal but if it doesn't then **** inner tubes man 😆 )

Oh and a minor Dune News update- the Minion FBF is [i]way[/i] nicer looking than the Bud, it really is a humungous Minion (with an extra row of intermediate knobs). But is about 50g heavier and might work out slightly narrower, because obviously it was measured with Maxxis's rubber ruler. (also, it doesn't seem to be as stretchy- Bud expands a lot with pressure) Testride at the weekend.

@Northwind are these the new Maxxis fat tyres where did you buy it from?
I didn't think they where readily available over here yet.

Going through a warranty return process on my Dune at the moment, left hand crank arm kept coming lose. Took it back to the shop gave me a loaner crank so I can carry on riding but I'm now on week number two!
Store has been great and they recon it's cause there is so little stock of the bike they're having to recall a bike from a shop to steal the crank arms!

Also for anyone out there with a VooDoo Wazoo or thinking of getting one, my mate bought one and took it back for a refund within two rides. The fork had creased on both sides and wasn't far off folding forward completely. Might have been a one off or something to look for on anyone else's bike.

Got mine from amazon in the states- ended up costing a wee bit less than a new Bud would have here even after tax, I just wanted to be FURST!!1!. I think the german stores get stock next month.

haha guessing there is plenty of clearance on the front for the 4.8"?
you plan on running that just for winter?

I've still got the JJ on the back at the moment with a Floater on the front, may consider the Maxxis n move the floater on the back

Yeah, tons of space- back's a little tighter but I've got a 4.8 JJ in there (bigger'n either the Bud or Minion) with a wee bit of room to spare. (and 1x10, not sure it'd work with a granny- I [i]think[/i] it'd all fit but with very little clearance) Pretty obvious the bike was designed with big tyres in mind tbh, it's not like squeezing 4.8s into an older frame.

Not really sure what I'll end up doing, if the minion's as good as I hope then it'll probably be in the front and bud rear- bud's pretty good though. We'll see eh.

I trust you'll be reporting back after a proper test ride 😀

Nah, I only like talking things up with no useful information, facts are boring 😆

Northwind - Member
Ah that's very cool, need to try this... I've got some packing wrap which I think is more or less the same stuff. What's the purpose of the foam, in this? The DUne rims have a pretty good bead fit (they need foam in the middle but none at the edge) so I'm not too sure about adding extra stuff there...

Oh- does it keep working? The big practical drawback of the foam (apart from weight obviously compared to this) is that the foam compresses so what works on day one, then needs redone with more foam after a while to fit another tyre. I get the impression that the shrinkwrap will end up permanently blown out? Or, does it pop back out so it'll mount the next tyre?

(if it needs redone, no big deal but if it doesn't then **** inner tubes man )

I really don't know why he used the foam because in my experience, it is not needed at all.
You don't need to build up the middle as when you apply the wrap tightly, it automatically raises the middle giving it a good seal against the tyre when you first put it on, and that makes it 100% inflatable with just a normal pump.

Unfortunately, you will have to re-wrap it if you change tyres, but it is very cheap and only takes minutes to do.
Its just like the split tube method without the extra weight and expense of buying new inner tubes to cut up.

To me, its the best of the lot.
If you do want to have the rim sealed all the time, then you'd have to use the Gorilla tape method, but even then, you'd still have to build up the centre of the rim (usually with foam, that would get squashed and need replaced every time anyway!) unless you got yourself a compressor and can pop the tyre on that way.

new fat hugger from mudhugger available in 2 weeks
[img] [/img]

Probably best not to Google fat hugger.

Has the fathugger been tried with bigger tires or is it 4" max, as there is very little room in a bluto with a Bud.

Is there a rear fat hugger also

'full length' rear would 'save' our washing machine 🙂

i run a 29er rear mud hugger on my O-O fatty

Here's how to

Definitely on my to buy list as soon as they're released.

A wee update- bottom bracket. Maybe this's been commented on but it's actually servicable, and very simple, you basically just knock the axle out. Still heavy, of course, but this is a really nice detail I reckon- fatbike BBs are a significant expense. My DS bearing is a little gritty, which isn't massively impressive but not intolerably awful either considering how wet it's been (and it's been fully immersed and stuff).

Minion FBF- is really bloody good. Better or worse than a Bud, I do not know- they're too different to compare. Minion has a much lighter feel (despite being heavier), livelier and with much more feedback. Also, on the downside, much more bounce, it took some getting used to while chattering through fast rough stuff. The grip's a bit more balanced, I think it has less in most mud etc but it's better over roots, rocks etc. But mostly that extra feel makes it easier to use the grip you have.

Bud OTOH is more damped, which is good and bad- good when you're battering over rocks etc, bad in terms of feedback. I've had some nasty moments with the Bud, where it lets go hard and fast without any real warning. If you were negative about it you'd call this numb, if you were positive you'd call it damped, or something.

Minions look like they land in europe this month, the front at least is a great option and personalyl I prefer it to the Bud just because it's given the bike back some waggy tailedness. I'll give up a little ability for that, if I must, but it doesn't seem to be much.

Less cheerfully, I finally fitted my aeffects (die to a 2 month wait for an "in stock" chainring because AbsoluteBlack are [i]dicks[/i]) and the chainline's pretty crap. Seems like the 190 fitment crank isn't the best for the job if you want single ring, Alex's setup with the 170 and a flipped ring is probably the one to do. Dang it.

On the bright side, it seems you can flip an oval ring, which The Internet claims is impossible with cinch- you need to change the fitment a little but even my tiny 28T seems to clear the arms. Not 100% on this one though!

I think Wolf-Tooth are now doing a Cinch Oval that is 'bulged' out so you can run it the right way round. I'll wait for mine to wear out first. Flipping has worked fine.

Anyone managed to get a spare hanger yet?

Yeah, lots of people think that the design of the cinch makes flipping an oval not work (because they think it'll end up clocked wrong). But it seems to just not be true tbh.

If wolftooth are making one that's good, means there's no reason for anyone to ever deal with absoluteblack again 😆 I think I was the UK distributor's first customer and they're already doing their nut.

Well, I couldn't wait for more stock and another 10% sale any longer, so picked up a 2nd hand Dune, paid £416 (after a £50 paypal freebie) but it has Clarks hydraulics on it which saved me £40 and a job. I may have been a silly boy, it's not perfect with a bit of cable rub and a gouge near the rear calliper, but I'm hoping this will allay my 'shineeeeee' ocd cleaning genie.....

It's supposed to be my winter fitness bike for dealing with South Downs clay/chalk sliminess - narrow tyres may cut though mud but my 2.1" Ground Control's skate all over slime just the same, only to grip 4" this way or that with a snap! I'm thinking wide tyres may find grip on the less slimy bits either side, we'll see! Hopefully I can get some fitness back in time for summer when I'm hoping to do the SouthDowns Way in one hit. Harder pedalling can't hurt on the exercise front, and also means I won't race off when out with the family on paved/hardback trails.

Now I've taken the plunge, expect massive discounts and the new large Dune in store any day now, and plus model with carbon forks, SLX, hidden seat post motor....!

I've got a Deore x10 shifters, brakes and clutch rear mech sat around to go 1x, but I'm going to give the 2x8 a whirl first to see how it fares ratios wise, and will try my Crudcatcher belly and rear guards initially (there's a front Marshguard too) - they're not wide enough, but does that much come off the sides of the tyres and go straight on?

Tyres are at 10psi at the mo with the stock Jumbo Jims with inners - will go tubeless once I've settled on tyre choice, but again thought I should try the 'Jims in local conditions before looking - anything mud spikey apparently just reduces slime contact and is even worse?

I'll search back through the thread for some tubeless tips, inner tube guide (I just need a spare to wish the otherwise inevitable puncture away), and 1x setups, but any other tips, let me know. Cheers!

Anyone the make model of the Dune rear hub? My freehub seems to be slipping as the pawls don't seem to "spring back" so looking for a replacement.

My spare superstar one doesn't fit 🙁

Good news. The large Dune will be available any minute now.

Well, sods law would dictate at least. I gave up waiting and bought a Felt DD30 instead (cyclelane has them on offer for £1049).

Snow forecast in the NWALPS tonight! *excited*

the large Dune Geo is now listed on the website

And lo, many wallets cried out in despair

nickgti - Member
the large Dune Geo is now listed on the website

Oh jeez - I really wish I hadn't opened this thread...

Haha Imagine it will be coming some time soon, still happy with mine though quite enjoying chucking the small size around

Here's a question. Anyone know if it's possible to buy a large Dune frame, or is it just complete bike...?

35% off the On One Fatty with Carbon forks, doesn't really make the Dune worth looking at in my eyes at that price

jeff1155:

summer when I'm hoping to do the SouthDowns Way in one hit.

On the Dune?

FYI On One Floaters are also in the 35% sale too, so about £33 a pair?

I said:

South Downs Way in one hit

nedrapier said:

On the Dune?

Hmmm, sounds like a challenge, comfy bum at least!

35% off the On One Fatty with Carbon forks, doesn't really make the Dune worth looking at in my eyes at that price

Comes in at £650 with the discount - just pulled the trigger...

I know, I convinced a couple of people who e-mailed about mine for sale but wanted a medium into buying new ones. I should be on commission the number of people I lend it to who buy one or I talk into it!

My large trail frame is on the Yodel lorry, whoopp WHOOPPPPP!!!!!!!

New set of floaters (because they were on offer and I'm a tart).

120mm Bluto on Payday to celebrate being in the black all month for the first time since moving house last summer.

And new wheelset depending on how quickly my Original Fatty sells either:
Poverty - new 150mm hub
Cheapest - Emmentals, TBH they're cheaper than fatsno hubs so maybe a good option even if just to get me rolling and upgrade the rims if needed.
Maybe - Fatsno's and BR710
More money than sense - Fatsno's and carbon.

Cranks:
Maybe some more X5's, I've had no insurmountable issues with them, and they are a bargain, but they are maybe a bit heavy. Keeping an eye out on ebay for any 2nd hand options.

Everything else:
Need to pick out a 40mm stem, but other than that I'll be raiding the spares box for a 1x10 SLX drivechain, reverb, carbon bars, and the rest of the finishing kit.

Hey jeff1155,

I live right on the South Downs and have used the Dune a lot over the last few months. It has become my go to bike over my susser or ti hardtail. The Standard Jumbo Jims are very grippy. They cope with the chalk wet or dry, very well and unless the mud is very deep, they are great tyres. Give them another try, but I would suggest a lower psi. I'm 80kg and run at 7-8. They are now more draggy on the road at that psi but grip a lot better. The 8 speed is ok, but I'm thinking about sticking and old 10 spd setup on the rear and leaving the front alone. Supposedly that works???

Anybody know where you can source a rear mech hanger, another person was trying to track one down but has had no luck so far including go outdoors.

Will try in store in Gloucester this weekend for a Mech hanger. Tried calling a few times - useless.

Dune has it's first non Forest of Dean outing yesterday in the Malverns. Added a few PSI as it's rocky and I didn't want multiple punctures. Probably a mistake as the bumpy bits were VERY bumpy! Brilliant as ever rolling over stuff, awesome on some fresh cut very steep and loamy trails where the grip was phenomenal and fun blasting over the smaller rocky trails.

On the steep, steppy stuff tho, unsurprisingly harsh. I'll let some air out and go again but it won't be my first choice up there. Never expected it to be really. After a month of not riding it, took me a while to get my head into 'fat mode' but once i did, the big grin returned. And everyone - and that includes walkers on the Malverns who are notoriously bike angry - pointed, laughed or asked about it.

[url= https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1552/24587021164_3f58e07564_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1552/24587021164_3f58e07564_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/DsEUN1 ]Malverns Skive Ride :)[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexleigh/ ]Alex Leigh[/url], on Flickr

Not a bad day for a ride. Here's a non bumpy trail we rode

[url= https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1714/25124325371_4da42924aa_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1714/25124325371_4da42924aa_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Eh9JBD ]Malverns Skive Ride :)[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexleigh/ ]Alex Leigh[/url], on Flickr

Sick front tyre Alex
[img] [/img]

Bought on the advice of Graham at SLAM69 bikes. Sadly it's apparently very hit and miss to go tubeless. Brilliant tyre tho, had the JJ on before and the difference in grip is - well- the difference between going round corners and into trees!

I've had a little play with the DD (with 4" JJs). It feels fast on steep climbs, rocky stuff, mud, bogs and grassy moorland. I wouldn't have even attempted the moor climb on one of my normal bikes in the current conditions. You can even go off what little trail there is into long grass and rushes and not really notice the difference.

Strava backed up my impressions. I was above my average (in much worse conditions) and I should be at my least fit now compared to old times.

It was remarkable on rocky track descents too. One small step that I'm always aware of on the 125mm FS just didn't register. I actually thought it was still to come until I realised I'd already ridden it.

Slow on the normally fast effortless pedally stuff though. Very slow.

[img] [/img]

Do you find the Nate draggy Alex?

the large Dune Geo is now listed on the website

Where?

On the mobile site it's under the info tab (next to features). Haven't looked on the desktop version.

Anyone investigated a possible pannier rack for the dune?

Yes I know it's not bang on trend!

Anyone investigated a possible pannier rack for the dune?

Yes I know it's not bang on trend!

I don't know of anything specific, most people seem to do OK on some fat bikes bending out a 29er rack, but I don't know if you'll get upto 190mm though.

On the mobile site it's under the info tab (next to features). Haven't looked on the desktop version.

Ah, so it is. Thanks.

Any idea why seat angles tend to be so slack on fatbikes. Trailbikes have been getting steeper, with 74 degrees now common but even trail-oriented fatbikes like the Dune are down around 69 degrees.

Not that I'm interested in fatbikes. Oh no. Well probably not interested enough to face the four-hour round trip to my nearest go-outdoors shop anyway 🙂

Fatty trail is 72, which seems about right if you run a reverb.

Having said that that's just what the table says, it might be slacker steeper depending how they measure it as there's a big kink in the seatube. And having said that i'll have to check my reverb fits, didn't think of that!

there are some specific fatbike pannier racks - try Salsa and Surly I think I've seen one by Thule as well?

Fatty trail is 72, which seems about right if you run a reverb.

Not far off, but if I compare the fatty trail with my Smuggler. Both have a 67.5 degree head angle and wheels that are similar(ish) in diameter. The large smuggler has a reach of 457mm with a 619mm effective top tube (74.9 degree SA). On the fatty the ETT is 642mm but the reach is only 440mm (72 degree SA).

Going by ETT (which is how I used to choose bikes back in the day) I'd be on a medium (at 6') rather than a large, but even the large is shorter reach than my Smuggler.

Do you find the Nate draggy Alex?

It's noticeably dragger than the JJ (as is the V-Billie on the back) but I'd happily trade that for not barking myself up every tree in the forest. Looking forward to getting the JJs back on and going tubeless.... need it to dry out a bit first!