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I used schrader valves and fatty strippers. It was for dd30 wheels.
How'd it work out Elefant?
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4240/35006981573_caa7eb32c5_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4240/35006981573_caa7eb32c5_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/VkrVZP ]Fatty-2[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/146501625@N06/ ]John Stanley[/url], on Flickr
I've just put it in For Sale. [/worststealthadever]
How'd it work out Elefant?
Still up 18 months later.
I'm find that 28 on the front and 11-42 cassette is leaving me wanting a higher gear on the flats/fire roads.
Currently no 30t direct mount chairing for ethirteen crank..
Anybody know of another manufacturer who does direct mount for ethirteen cranks?
Have a look at absolute black bit pricy though.
Has anyone ridden/got wheels with Alex Blizzerk 90 rims?
Merlin are doing wheelsets for £415 built on Surly hubs, really easy to go tubeless apparently.
That's it! After yet another puncture I finally wrestled with sealant, tubeless valves and Fatty Strippers to get my winter Nates setup tubeless on the standard rims - what a palaver!
First tried without the foam backing rods to build up the rim - flabby as a flabby thing and the compressor wasn't doing anything.
Tyres off, Fatty Strippers off, foam rods installed loose underneath (I remembered a comment somewhere that the Fatty Strippers would hold them in place) - you can't get Nates over the rim without locating the bead towards the centre, which pushes the foam rods to the centre, which means they do f-all, and second try - flabby as a flabby thing, compressor did nothing.
Third try - spray mount the foam rods to build up the edge of the rim, Fatty Strippers back on - again you can't get the Nates over the rim without locating the beads in the centre of the rim, then how do you get the bead over the foam rods to sit against the edge of the rim? I plumped for the blunt end of a chopstick to lift the bead section by section over the foam rod to sit tight against the rim edge, and voila! Worked (third) time, but there must be an easier way....! Trying to keep the Fatty Strippers over the edge of the rim while doing all that heaving around of the bead was an exercise in frustration.
They've held up for three days so far, still leaking slightly yesterday through the cut outs - I think one of the Fatty Strippers must have had a hole in it from all the faffing. Today it's stopped and they're still at pressure, so I'm hoping that's it but going to order some spare Strippers just in case they need (more carefully) re-doing.
I finally wrestled with Fatty Strippers
Each to their own I suppose. 😆
Hey...
Haven't been here for a while. This thread and the many posts re the Dune are what led me to getting one myself 18months ago.
Anyway, sorry to bump the current agenda, but just a quick question for all of you Dune owners, more specifically... those of you who have switched cranks etc. How'd you get those things off. I've munched an extractor trying to remove mine. Any advice would be gratefully received
Just used a normal square taper extractor & they came off easily enough..
Sorry to resurrect a thread, it's taken me about a week to read all 60 pages!! Picking up a new to me Calibre Dune on Tuesday evening so good to do some background reading. Second hand so despite being 5ft 7/8 I've gone for the large because having ridden both in the closest GoOutdoors both felt fine. The medium already had a longer stem on than I like and similarly the large does to so I'll be fitting a 50mm maximum to the new large. Contemplating new carbon bars and stem for the Bronson so I can filter down a set of carbon bars and better stem down to the Dune. Priority for me is going to be setting up tubeless, I might go as far as to pick up some new wheels with fatty strippers to make the job easier for myself. With the cost of the bike I reckon I can just about fork out for some wheels plus other bits but it's just the right price point for novelty factor!
Welcome to the Fat club!
Pity your missing out on global fat bike day this Saturday!
Hi all. Thanks to this thread I bought a Dune!
Unfortunately I'm having some crank issues... lost the crank bolt on my maiden voyage and the DS fell off. Cranks are Raceface Ride. I've replaced the bolt but on fitting it up, i think i may also have lost a crank axle spacer. I've now got 10-15mm too much axle when torqued up!
Anyone have the same cranks and can confirm? It must be a drive side spacer as there looks to be a spacer on the NDS already.
Lastly, where the flip can i source one of these??
Your LBS should be able to help with spacers. I recently got some hope ones (for a new hope chainset), were a couple of quid each I think. May have to order them in.
Edit - check whether you've got a 24 or 30mm axle first and order accordingly!
I see that everyone's favourite Yorkshire based online serial discounters are selling [i]Maxxis Mammoth 120TPI Tubeless Ready[/i] for £35. Are they better than the [i]Kenda Juggernaught Pro[/i] that the Calibre Dune is shod with...?
I wouldn't want to use the Mammoth during the winter but could be a good dry condition tyre.
Very good price though !
I've not looked in months, but try Athleteshop for JJs and other fat tyre deals.
JJ's are not winter tyres but are great otherwise I believe.
The 4.4" and especially the 4.8" JJs have more knob tread depth than the 4" versions, but I think Northwind on here swears by Bud and Lou for winter riding, for better traction at the cost of weight.
Yep Bud & Lou are supposed to be good all year with Nate's being even better in mud.
I've gone with a Minion up front. I haven't fitted the rear one, I'm just about managing with the Ground Control out back.
I would be patient and buy 2nd hand. My Minions were like new, £100 the pair.
And my Ground Controls were also like new and came with a free pair of Hope/BR710's for £350..
Finally taken the plunge on upgrading my Dune, and bought a Bluto fork, a race face chainset and some new shiny XT gears.
I wanted to wait until the 8 speed stuff wore out, but that looks like it'll take ages! the bottom bracket doesn't look too healthy now either - very rusty, but actually works fine. I was bored and any excuse to buy new bits really.
Got a 100mm bluto from amazon for £290! They only had one in stock, but I think its coming from their French warehouse as "next day delivery" has it arriving on Monday. 🙁
I've got a 30t hope N/W chainring at home to use with it. Thinking of sticking a 22t granny on the chainset too, thought it may be fun to see what I can get it up with a 22 x 42 gear! 🙂
Got a link to that bluto grenosteve? Is it new? What model?
Edit, just seen they only had one... well if you fancy selling it on, or swapping it for a white one...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F9KJNF8
Yea, Amazon only had one in stock I'm afraid. No idea why it was £290 when other companies sell on the same advert for £500+, but I jumped at it.
Really enjoyed my Dune. But it remains the only frame thats ever failed on me.
I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the Bluto.
When I "upgraded" my ICT to the Dude I put a Bluto on it straight away, then for some reason struggled to find the motivation to ride it. Not sure why, as I'd loved riding the heavy, rigid ICT the year before, but I ended up spending most of last summer riding my trail bike instead. Then the winter came and I put rigid forks on the Dude (with a 4.8" Bud up front) and I'm loving it again. I'm still planning to put the Bluto back on if Spring ever comes (maybe with a 4.8 Jumbo Jim on the front) but it wasn't the obvious improvement that I'd expected.
"n0b0dy0ftheg0at
The 4.4″ and especially the 4.8″ JJs have more knob tread depth than the 4″ versions, but I think Northwind on here swears by Bud and Lou for winter riding, for better traction at the cost of weight."
Bud and Lou are great but I actually use the Minions. Partly because I think having a 4.8 minion is awesome, but mostly because they're just a bit more <fun>- Bud and Lou are implacable and soak up everything, Minions have more bounce and play to them.
Though, this winter I stuck with FBF front and JJ 4.8 rear, purely because my compressor blew up, and it's worked OK. The 4.0 JJ is ****-all use if it's wet but the 4.8 does better- it's not really any more floaty but it's more toothy.
In a similar vein I stuck with the 4.4 JJ on the back of my Dude this winter, paired with a Bud up front. I preferred that combo to the Bud/Lou I ran last year (anybody looking for a Lou 🙂 ) as it seemed almost as secure with a lot less drag. If I were just riding snow (or sand) I'd go Bud/Lou or Minions (which I've not tried) but even up here it's rare to have snow the whole ride and when we have the Bud/JJ combo seems to have coped fine.
There's some decent upgrade bits at PX at the mo for people with cheaper fatbikes, such as the white RDS carbon fork* for £75 and the odd Knuckleball chewy bars for £40/50.
* You will need an RDS hubbed wheel to fit it, which are very hard to source these days, or take a chance on filing down a milled brake adaptor. Plus the £5 carbon fork bung.
Well the dune is now 1x11, and has a bluto.
I went with a 30 tooth chainring, and the cassette is 11-42. May consider the 46 in the future as I run it with 4.8 minions and it's quite a heavy beast on the longer hills, but 42 is doable. Biggest plus point is from the clutch mech, it's now quiet on rocky stuff instead of the heavy 8 speed chain constantly rattling off the chainstay, which is nice.
The bluto is great, only done a few downhill runs on it so far and you can carry even more speed over stuff as bigger roots and rocks just get eaten up. It feels like it would be super easy to get in trouble now though, I've had a few high speed run-offs through the bushes in the past when I've compressed the tyres too much and they squirm and follow a camber, and now it's even faster so I think I'll have to keep an eye on that.
I've also raised my bars up quite a bit with about 30mm of spacers under the stem, which looks naff, but I like how it rides now.
I actually only put some air in the fork, so I've not played with the slow speed rebound or the other rebound on the bottom of the fork yet.
I've read that the bluto's are flexy, but I couldn't;t feel any, and I'm not sure it would matter anyway when the contact point with the floor has a few inches of inbuilt flex!
It's looking like a right freak of a bike now - It's got Love Mud Confucious bars + bag (fat bike inner tubes are too big and heavy for a saddle pack, and I hate wearing a backpack), PDW fat fender and other mudguards strapped to it, and those 4.8 tyres look massive even for a fat bike!
That sounds great grenosteve.
How do you find the love mud bars? I'm tempted as they are a fair chunk cheaper than the Moloko bars I keep looking at!
On a more general note: anyone know why the UK fat bike forum is down? Any ideas even it'll be back online?
They're ok, bit stiffer than the bars I took off, but as it's a fat bike it's not really an issue. They're also almost flat, so you need to consider that if you have risers on.
The bags a really handy bit of kit though, can get a jacket, fat inner tube, pump, multitool, some snacks and full size puncture kit in there with a bit of room to spare. I've not tried strapping a drybag directly to it, but it works well with an Alpkit harness and drybag, plus you can still use the little confucious bag with the alpkit harness.
Thanks.
I have read reviews that mention the stiffness of the bars.
Currently I have salsa salt flat bars on my Pug.
https://www.merlincycles.com/ritchey-commando-fat-bike-frameset-2017-110841.html
Might tempt some for £180 frameset.
i'm after a dune of a wazoo in a medium in case anyone's selling
mail in profile
Sorry to bump an old post.
Am I right in thinking that one of the Wazoo riders on here had a set of On-One carbon forks on their Wazoo. I seem to recall there was an issue fitting them with regards to the brakes but I'm maybe wrong.
The Pasak Forks I bought have died, so looking at a new front end setup. Been recommended the On-One set by a fellow fatty fiend.
The OO fork may have an issue when mounting a caliper and getting it sitting in the right place on a disc. It's a front disc spacing / rear disc spacing conflict between hub and fork. I can't remember which way round it is.
The cure is to machine or file row caliper adapter / mount by 4 mm. It's easy to do.
Note, it's not filing 4mm off the fork mounts btw.
The On One carbon forks are Rear Disc Spaced, Dahedd, the default Wazoo front wheel hub is Front Disc Spaced (the more modern standard). It won't work.
You either need to...
Source a new front wheel that has an RDS hub
Source an RDS front hub and then rebuild the original wheel rim using it
Delve into the dark art (voodoo? :D) of lathing the brake adaptor and then using a file so that your FDS wheel rotor spins freely inside the caliper, something kayak23 did and bri-72 on here did at least.
I've yet to complete my attempt at the kayak23/bri-72 "hack," after bri-72 sold me his spare lathed adaptor last autumn. I've also got an RDS hub I won on ebay, which I've yet to get around to trying to rebuild a wheel with. Sometimes I miss not being able to a fat front wheel, but fortunately, I got one of the last FatNotFat 29er wheelsets from PX which had an RDS front hub, which I've been using for tyres in the 28-60mm range.
Just a thought, but as far as I can see, PX don't seem to stock the carbon fat fork any more.
No they dont appear to sell them on the PX website anymore but there is someone selling 6 new sets on eBay.
I've not gone through the thread to see if it's already there but just in case anyone else is looking to change the bearings in the original bottom bracket on the Dune, details are as follows.
Bearing code is - 173110-2RS
I found them at Kinetic for £5.50 each.
https://www.kineticbikebearings.com/173110-2rs.html
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/825/28387011378_1f2c52df3b_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/825/28387011378_1f2c52df3b_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/KfsRuE ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/79912681@N06/ ]kayak23[/url], on Flickr
Good news for me as I was teetering on buying new cranks, the lot. Nothing wrong with these Lasco cranks. They actually seem fairly light. The bb is heavy though obvs.
Nice one- I got as far as discovering it had replacable bearings but then I damaged a taper so I just replaced it all, good to know it can be kept alive.
How did you get them out of the bottom bracket shell...?
The Dune.
New bb bearings, new front wheel bearings, new headset and new fatter rubber.
Can't get over the size difference in the new tyres. Looking forward to trying them out. Went up beautifully ghetto tubeless.
Looking steezy. 😎
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/946/40499459560_a78446ca2e_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/946/40499459560_a78446ca2e_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/24GNjm9 ]New fatter rubber on the Dune. May 2018[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/79912681@N06/ ]kayak23[/url], on Flickr
4" Juggernaut on the right, 4.8" JumboJim on the left.
[url= https://farm1.staticflickr.com/877/27437093787_91d483d7ab_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm1.staticflickr.com/877/27437093787_91d483d7ab_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/HNwh6a ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/79912681@N06/ ]kayak23[/url], on Flickr
How did you get them out of the bottom bracket shell…?
I used a workmate, putting the bb between the jaws and tapping the spindle to knock each cup off, then the same with each bearing. Wasn't particularly graceful but it happened.
Looks great pal, I've got to get round to doing similar to mine before long as I'm getting some play in the BB now ,and im still on the original 2x8 .I may just get a race Face crank set though,still undecided about going 1x 10. What gearing are you running?
How do the tyres feel compared to the jugs? Ive never had a problem with grip with the jugs particularly but the self steer on the front does my head in when pressure is below about 9.5 psi.
@kayak23 I hope you are running that combo with a slammed stem and some TT bars to get full aero advantage. 😉
@mm93 - self steer, I find it worst on roads as the tyres have so much grip! The first ride I'd got the pressure too low, particularly on the front, I kept feeling like I was going to high side like a motorbike. I got some more air in ASAP.
I don't have a Dune, I've a Singular Puffin, but I fitted a RaceFace AEffect crank with direct mount chainrings. I actually run an oval 28T (it's the only practical way to get such a small oval ring) with 11-42T Sunrace cassette. The range is fine for what I do on the bike - I've only felt that I've needed a lower gear once and I'm rarely in the 11T - If I want to go fast on easy terrain the fat bike isn't really the bike for it.
I don't know what the chainline is like on the Dune but 4.8" JJ might be a problem with a 2x drivetrain.
Good advice Whitestone thanks.
MM93
Looks great pal, I’ve got to get round to doing similar to mine before long as I’m getting some play in the BB now ,and im still on the original 2×8 .I may just get a race Face crank set though,still undecided about going 1x 10. What gearing are you running?
How do the tyres feel compared to the jugs? Ive never had a problem with grip with the jugs particularly but the self steer on the front does my head in when pressure is below about 9.5 psi.
I'm running a 30T front and a Sunrace 11-46 rear 11 speed. It's bang on really. If that can't get me up any climbs I probably need to have a quiet word with myself.
It does spin out a bit though when I'm chasing roadies who have the audacity to overtake me on road sections 😉
I've literally only got the tyres on last night and just had time for a spin up the street so can't comment on that. I also was totally fine with the Juggernaughts. I think you have to adjust how you ride things is all. I learned this pretty quick after wanging it into slidey surface mud a few times and ending up on my face. Fatbikes have float.
I'm expecting the JJ's to roll slower but I think they'll suit my riding better as they have a much more robust sidewall and general construction than the Jugs.
I don’t know what the chainline is like on the Dune but 4.8″ JJ might be a problem with a 2x drivetrain.
I reckon I'd agree with that. There is about 5mm to spare if that from the chain to the tyre on the 46 tooth ring. I imagine you'd get contact on a granny.
👍 ah thanks,I may copy you LOL.
So I can put an 11 speed cassette on the original wheel okay and would need 11speed specific shifter,mech,chain and chainring? All food for thought thanks.
4.8 JJ's will fit with the original 2x8 gearing on a Dune, just - but will rub the tyre occasionally.They roll far better than the jugs that came with it, maybe as the tubes aren't in there.
Juggernauts are actually bloomin slow, presumably from carcass resistance/hysteresis rather than tread.
I agree, but when they're blown up around 20psi they're pretty quick... Used one on the back at last years Dyfi with about 15 psi in it & a floater on the front, worked pretty well TBH. With the Dyfi's rep for ruining tyres I didn't fancy destroying the JJ's I'd just bought !
Hi, I just read this entire thread. It basically took me my whole holiday Sat by the pool.
During that time, I bought a stock Dune on eBay. I haven't taken delivery yet. My question is this, would I be able to ride the London to Brighton off road on it with my friends on hardtail mtbs, or will I struggle? I'm not Bradley Wiggins.
Yeah, you will. Just run slightly higher pressure tyres than perhaps you might normally.
They roll along ok really.
Just noticed these tastefully coloured frames online...
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FP218/on-one-fatty-trail-frame-prototype---18-inch---neon-green
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FP219/on-one-fatty-trail-frame-prototype---18-inch---baby-blue
i've finally got me a dune. loving it, but definately going to need some blutos and a dropper post, due to terrain, and my knackered shoulders and neck : )
so self-steer question: i'm running the original juggers, will stick with them til they're gubbed due to budget, 2nd biek etc etc. but finding the self steer, or not-steer more like, pretty bad, and am convinved i can feel it from the back as well.
i do have them pretty soft. 0.4 bar = about 6psi in Freedom units. i'm assuming a bit harder will help? but i'm pretty light - 65kg and this seems to be a sweet spot for dealing with loose stoney stuff and not dinging the rims.
also, from a quick skim, seems liek other tyres might suffer less from self steer?
basically the jugs are a bit shit and i should stick some JJs on? that's what i'm expecting to hear : )
i'm only riding dry trails, so mud -type grip not an issue, but i would like a bit more traction. even at 0.4 bar the back wheel spins out surprisingly often. jumbos again then?
i reckon when i get some blutos on this will sort all of this a bit. will be able to run both front harder, and the back probably needs to be a bit harder anyways
Starting point for tyre pressure seems to be about 1psi for each 10kg of body weight so I'd say 6.5psi for the front and a little higher for the back. With fat bike tyres 0.5psi can make a big difference so get an accurate low pressure gauge.
Then just go out and ride and figure out what works for you. If you change tyres then repeat the process as the tyres are so big, deep sidewalls, etc. It's worth going for the higher TPI tyres as well - my wife has the 27TPI Surly Nates and they are way heavier than my 120 TPI 45Nrth Van Helgas.
Through a process of trail and error, I've found 7.5 psi at the front and 8.5 psi at the back to work for me (I'm somewhere between 70 - 74 KG). It's a bit slow on the road, but has enough compliance on the bridleways and byways I normally cycle on. I think I could go a bit lower, but the drag on the road would be too much.
Depending on how you've set-up your tyres (tubeless or not), then defo get a low pressure gauge. The difference in psi between my early morning rides and afternoon rides with the kids can be as much at 1.5 psi, depending on the weather.
and as far as self steer is concerned? you get noticeably less at 7.5 than at 6.5 say?
or is it more about the tyres and their carcass?
and yes, weather makes quite a different. left it in the (hot) sun the other day and the tires gained easily a few psi
I find that self-steer is almost an all or nothing effect so I'll get self-steer at 7.5psi but not at 8psi. That's just with that particular tyre. If I change tyres then the tipping point might be between 8.5psi and 9psi. As stated above, it's a process of trial and error but you don't want to be putting huge pressures in just to be safe as you'll be pinging off everything.
I’ve mentioned this before but the higher the TPI the worse the self steer I’ve experienced.
I can’t see how having a flimsy side wall can benefit accurate steering.
yep, makes sense zippy,
and yes whitestone, i'd rather a little self-steer than getting pinged about.
found 2 part used jumbo jims for 30 € the pair this morning so i reckon i'll give that a go.
just need to find some cheap blutos now!
Hang fire with the Blutos, don't get me wrong they're nice & do improve the ride somewhat, but the real game changer for me was fitting JJ's...…
Quick list of what I class to be the order of importance of things to change first, basically the difference it made to how the bike rode & to cost of changing it.
Brakes & Discs - it was nice being able to stop
H/bars - the stock ones are like a piece of scaffold pipe, actually scaffold pipe would probably have more give in it..
Tyres - Floaters for deepest winter & JJ's for the other 8-9 mths, Tubeless,which is probably more noticeable on a fatty than on any other type of bike - you lose the hefty tubes & the tyres just work better !
Dropper seatpost - This could probably be higher in the list as I find the Dune to be very arse up in the air when riding & it's great to get the saddle out the way.
Drivetrain - swopped to a 1x10 set up 30x11-36, which works fine for me. Get loads of traction on the fatty so if it's proper steep I can usually stand up & stomp it up there, or walk 😉
& then finally, some forks with bounce.
I've stayed with the stock wheels as I've yet to find any cheap ones to replace them with..
TBH I'd have probably bought a more expensive fatty that didn't need so many bits changing to make it a better bike had I given it a bit more thought before buying it !
emac65 thanks for your thoughts, but i need spension. currently thinking 80mm
the stuff i ride around me is too much for my neck and shoulders otherwise and i get serious headaches.
also a few small jumps and drop-offs i like to do, but can't take rigid.
i've already swapped bars and stem, chainrings, and a dropper is on the list. i'll do brakes eventually and tubless is aalready done, mostly because of puntures.
We did look at a Dune (well I did as I happened to be near a Go Outdoors) when my wife was looking for a fat bike. She ended up getting the only XS Surly Wednesday coming in to the country! Comparing her bike with mine (Singular Puffin) there's a definite "heft" to hers. There's 250g difference in the frame so everything else is in the wheels and tyres. (That's generally true of fat bikes - the Puffin frame is just 200g heavier than the Swift for example.)
As I stated earlier she has 27tpi Nates whilst I have 120tpi 45Nrth tyres. The biggest difference is in getting going - I'm up to speed much quicker than she is but once going there's not much in it and the extra momentum of her heavier tyres lets her push through things. I bought my fat bike second hand as a rolling chassis so had summer tyres but for me it's mainly a winter bike (I got it to do the Rovaniemi 150 race) and having suppler tyres is a big plus in snow. Needs a picture 🙂
I am pretty sure I way well have asked this in the past but don't recall the answer and there are a fair few pages to get through!
So, the medium Dune, what sort of lower height range would this suit? I'm thinking for the Mrs who is 5'5".
Thanks
Normal Man, I'm a smidge under 5' 8" and have a medium. The seat post isn't long enough for me, and doesn't quite have enough set back, other than that it fits me pretty well. I was a bit too stretched out on the large. Make of that what you will...
Thanks for the reply.
Can anyone point me to a set of reasonably priced cranks and bottom bracket for my dune please,I would prefer to stay 2x10 I think. I was going to go for the race Face ride but they seem to be out of stock everywhere. There are some SRAM gx 1000 cranks on eBay and ive also seen some SRAM x5 but my mind is blown by all the different sizes and options ,what bottom bracket would I need for these? Thanks
Discovered earlier that JJs have a rotation and the rear was wrong way around on my Wazoo, I've been defying physics for months and have somehow not died! 😮
This looks ok to me for under a grand.What do we think!a good upgrade from a dune?
I think your dune frame & fork will probably be lighter, this is based on my experience of the Kona from a couple of years ago. I'd say the dune has a slightly more trail friendly geometry & the Kona a more long distance bike packing vibe, much like an original fat bike.
Anyone got a set of Calibre Dune or other rigid 150mm forks they would like to sell?
I've had 90% of a bike sat in the shed for 3 years after running out of £££ and the price of Bluto's went from £280 to £500+ in the meantime!
Just finished getting through this mega thread!
New Dune owner here, with the split inner tube method is the inner tube reusable? I used to just taping a rim and wacking some sealant in..
If you are careful. If you can cope with the aesthetics of a baggy trim, it will be easier to re-use.
Absolutely reusable, just a case of lining it up. I used the AV10 tube- lighter than the heavier AV10D usually recommended, and cheaper too- and it's exactly the right size. I cut it right down a seam line, no trimming at all, and it sat perfectly into the rim with just enough to go up the sides. I did have to be a bit careful with fitting but fatbike tyres are so loose anyway that this is no trouble.
Cool, thanks guys.
So a strip of foam slightly narrower than the rim bed, two SV10 inner tubes and a bucket of sealant should see me on my way then?
Just a heads up for you fatty owners, there are a few fat bits in the latest PX sale...
https://www.planetx.co.uk/s?sort=price-asc&q=fat
It includes some fat rims made of cheese 😉 and some front wheels (1x q/r, 9x bolt-thru at time of writing post, doesn't say in typical PX style but I'd guess they are all Front Disc Spaced {so good for Dune/Wazoo default forks plus Bluto, not good for On One Carbon Fatty forks).
The emmenthal rim is literally the same rim as comes on the Dune standard btw.
Thinking of painting my fatty. Show me your non white OOF.