[Closed] Would you buy a (new) fatbike for ~£1k?

Que?

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/manitou-mastodon-1039416-2.html

Manitou Mastodon Fatty forks coming soon.

It's good to see that they wheels are back in stock at PX as they were out a few weeks ago & judging by the email I was sent they had little intention of putting more up for sale.

Saw that last week...went hunting for the illusive images but drew a blank. Thanks for posting the link, good to see there are finally some pics of the mastodon fork..just need a price next.

Recommendations for new rims please. I've got some Hope Hubs on the way for my Dune so I'm in the market for rims.
I'll be running 4" or 4.8's. Mulefats for their tubeless qualities or DT Swiss for weight? Anything else I should consider at a similar price?

Gold Digger,Im looking at alternatives to Blutos so im rather interested in the Mastodon.

RST also do their Renegade fork which seems to get good reviews from the States. I contacted RST Europe on FB lastnight to ask abut a UK supplier, they messaged me back to say to try Scott at Resurrection Cycles.

Ill let you know how I get on with that as well. Ill be interested in a price. Though im in the position of pondering if its worth spending £400+ for forks on a £500 bike.

edit... Resurrection Cycles don't seem to exist judging by their web page. Oh well, nvm all the more reason to hang on for the Manitou.

Im looking at alternatives to Blutos so im rather interested in the Mastodon.

wren Forks FTW
[img] [/img]

Ive commented on your pics a few times on FB, loving the Wrens, overkill perhaps on a £500 budget fattie lol.

I have seen a budget Wren copy on the go though, DNM suspension I think it was. Half the price of the Wrens and Blutos.

After months of prevarication, I finally pulled the trigger on a set of Blutos a few weeks back. So I think I can take some credit for Manitou releasing this new wonder fork now 🙂

I can't really find much wrong with the Blutos though, which is strange as reading some of the comments online you'd think they were the worst forks ever made. Maybe I just don't push them hard enough to notice the shortcomings, or maybe I'm just not skilled enough to spot the problems.

I've got a (29er) Pike (130mm) on one bike and a (26") Float 32 (140mm) on another. According to the internet, one is great and the other is a pile of poo, but as far as I can tell they both do the job just fine. That's the job of soaking up some of the bumps and saving my wrists from too much abuse. Same for the Bluto really, but I'll still watch the release of the Mastadon with interest. If nothing else, it's a great name.

have seen a budget Wren copy on the go though, DNM suspension I think it was. Half the price of the Wrens and Blutos.

If I were going front sus it probably try a set of Fox or Xfusion boost forks and squeeze in a 4" tyre as it's rare I go bigger (little snow and sand near me). But this means another new front wheel so it gets more expensive again.

+ I like the challenge of riding rigid and keeping up with my full sus mates...

I rode my Spearfish yesterday and I'd have to say my Fatty with a sus post was plusher on the rear.
The only place it was noticeably better was riding up a set of steps.
Back on the fatty today.

Zippykona, can I be nosey ask which seat post you use?

Use. It's the 80 mm one with the single bolt head.
Edit think it's a vybe.

Turns out im completely skint. Anyone want to buy a mint set of Bluto's?
Going to list in the classifieds.

rOcKeTdOg
What's the specs on your fatty? What does it weigh?
Did you manage to get your DT rims tubeless?

Specs? Smokestone henderson frame, wren forks, hope fatsnos, 2250/710s stx gears, cheapo RF chainset 1x11 (30x11/42) gravity dropper, renthal bars.
Weighs about 36lb.

DT rims went tubeless easily, couple of runs of rim tape, tube to seat one side first, strap around tyre, flash charger & they've stayed up about 2.5 months now

PX have the fat wheel sets at ~£130, my guess is the link listing 135/197 hubs is Rear Disc Space, while the separate link listing 135/170 hubs is Front Disc Spaced (so would fit the FDS Wazoo fork).

I finally have my On One carbon fork fitted, thanks to the local Giant store that used to be Cycleworld, who fitted a nice shiny Hope integral headset and split crown race for me. Feels great so far! 8)

Yet to try my fat wheelset since the fork was fitted, it does mean I need to transfer the SV13F tube and JJ tyre from the FDS Wazoo front wheel to the RDS Fatty v1 front wheel.

So Planet X sell wheels that don't fit their own Carbon forks? Seems a tad pointless.

really want to buy a dune but can't decide on size I'm 5'9 and normally ride a Med 650b HT - none in stock to try at local store and don't want to order the wrong size - reading through the thread 5'9 could be too tall for the M but slightly short for the L, can anyone help me get some clarity? Thx 🙂

From what I've read, the medium should fit you, the only thing you may have a problem with is the stock seatpost. IIRC, if your cycling inseam is ~31" or less, the stock post will work.

My Wazoo is the 18" frame, I'm ~179cm tall with relatively short ~81cm cycling inseam. Initially, on first 30min+ ride, I found the non-riser bar a bit too low for my weak back. I solved this by fitting a 100mm 35 degree stem, before buying a 35mm Corto stem with the chewy Knuckleball riser bars. With the carbon Fatty fork finally fitted for the last few weeks, I left the longer steerer uncut, to give me plenty of options for how high I want the front end.

Unless you are desperate to upgrade a Dune to a Bluto fork, I think the £400 before BC discount price of the Wazoo is hard to ignore.
You could buy...
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FOOOCFATDP/on-one-carbon-fatty-fork
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FSPXFCENT/planet-x-carbon-fork-bung-(team-alu-carbon-fatty-fork)

And presumeably this front wheel is Rear Disc Spaced like the carbon fork (although I would definitely recommend getting conformation from them)...
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WBFOOEELF/on-one-emmental-rim-with-el-guapo-pro-hub-front-fat-bike-wheel

Thanks n0b0dy0ftheg0at - I like the Dune as it gives the option to Bluto later if I want too, I also have some spares knocking around that I can use to upgrade the brakes and eventually 10 x 1. - I've looked at the Wazoo and was close to getting one @£400 its a steal but think the Dune may be better partner long term. Unfortunately the Dune sizing is very vague and I seem to be right in the middle (5'9 31 inseam) reading the thread I'm guessing I could go Med and put a 400mm seatpost on it or alternately go Lg and get a shorter rech stem... Not sure if there is any difference in the crank length between them. So frustrating that i cant even sit on one at the shop as Oxford Go Outdoors dont stock bikes they only do delivery to store.... :-/

I am leaving the office, right now, to go and pick up my new Wazoo. 🙂

radonrob - Member

really want to buy a dune but can't decide on size I'm 5'9 and normally ride a Med 650b HT - none in stock to try at local store and don't want to order the wrong size - reading through the thread 5'9 could be too tall for the M but slightly short for the L, can anyone help me get some clarity?

I'm 5'10 and I ride the original medium Dune. My main bike is a large Remedy. On the numbers, I'd definitely say the Dune's too small for me, if I'd had a choice I'd have got the large and still considered it short frankly.

Buuuut, I got the medium because that's all there was at the time, and I wouldn't change it now. I even put a shorter stem on it. It doesn't feel too small just to sit on, and it feels great to ride. Usually shortness has downsides in stability etc, I suppose that goes out the window when you've got 5kg of wheels.

But what I'm working up to here is saying that assumptions and knowledge from normal bikes, might not apply too well to stupid bikes, and that's totally unhelpful for you. Sorry!

I am now one of you, my chunky wheeled brethren!

Three different people commented on the bike in the 40 feet between the door of Halfords and the car when I picked it up. 🙂

Congrats! Now go replace those awful Mission Commands! 😆

Congrats! Now go replace those awful Mission Commands

Green Floaters? 😉

Thanks Northwind, so would you say that if i got a large and it was a little too long on reach I could put a shorter stem on and it would be ok? seems sensible to go large and pull the bars back as I can't add length to a M frame (if that makes sense) the frame looks low so guessing standover on a Large would not be an issue....

I'm 5'9" with a 30" inside leg and my medium dune is the nicest fitting bike I've got, but I have got a slightly dodgy back and don't really like a stretched out riding position.
That's probably not massively helpful, but if you're anywhere near Leicester you are welcome to try mine for size.

radonrob - Member

Thanks Northwind, so would you say that if i got a large and it was a little too long on reach I could put a shorter stem on and it would be ok?

Yeah I reckon so, I can't remember what length the standard one is but I have a 50mm stem and 780mm bars on it, #enduro as ****. I've done that for the steering not for reach but it works. THe riding position's fairly upright but that suits the demeanour of the thing as well as the shape. All a total fluke but thinking about it, it's the size/control/setup package I'm most happy with of any bike I've owned, I've nothing else that feels as good doing a 7 hour xc race or an enduro race. (obviously it's bad at those jobs, but it feels good)

Thanks Northwind, so would you say that if i got a large and it was a little too long on reach I could put a shorter stem on and it would be ok? seems sensible to go large and pull the bars back as I can't add length to a M frame (if that makes sense) the frame looks low so guessing standover on a Large would not be an issue....?

Thanks MikeG / Northwind - not near leicester I'm afraid or I'd take you upI'm not into being too laid out either / It has a 70mm stem so I could extend that a little on the Med if need be and have a 400mm post in the garage to think its going to be a Med...

Not sure how easy travel is for you but last time I was in the Swindon GO they had both sizes of Dune in.

Still thinking re the Dune and been looking at the effective top tube length on the medium and if it is 585 it will be fine with a longer seatpost although that does sound very long and i wonder if its from the bars or centre of the head tube... just to confuse the issue further just seen this. for 699 frame is Bluto ready has 2 x 10, hydraulic stoppers 4.8 tyre and external BB bearings but it also has an odd size 135 QR front hub (not bluto ready) and weighs a lot! any good? Any thoughts? Any experience with this SE Bike? would be apreciated too! http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se-bikes-f-r-26-hardtail-bike-2017/rp-prod150673

West Sussex Dune in Large available for testing if local to you.

radonrob - Member

Still thinking re the Dune and been looking at the effective top tube length on the medium and if it is 585 it will be fine with a longer seatpost although that does sound very long and i wonder if its from the bars or centre of the head tube...

ETT's measured from the imaginary line where the head tube bisects the top tube, back to the middle of the seatpost. But it's not a very useful measurement because of seat tube angles, head tube lengths... Reach is more useful generally

That SE looks pretty interesting but I think it's more like a nicer Voodoo than a Dune alternative- ie it's a reasonable working spec to ride as is but not a great platform for upgrades, where the Dune is a barely-does-the-job basic spec to make it cheap but ripe for upgrades.

The QRs and 135 fork are a bummer. I'm not sure if the spec is right- the pic seems to have drilled rims but it says they're Weinmann HL102s, they're double walled (and weigh 1300g). But the drivetrain and brakes crap on the Dune's.

I'd still say Dune. You can bring the brakes and gears up to spec easily and for not much more than the price difference, and then you've got better wheels and more useful standards in the frame and fork. bluto compatibility's a bigger advantage when the wheel's bluto compatible too. The important, more permanent parts in the DUne are better.

Thanks for your thoughts, the rims are 102's but drilled which must be special order KHS and a few other brands also have them even with the holes they probably still weigh a ton. Looks like I'll have to drive over to GO in Swindon to size one up, so frustrating the only store that does not stock bikes happens to be my local one in Oxford...

The drivetrain is cheap on the Dune, but it lasts aggggeeeessss ! Decided not to replace mine until it wore out - 7 months of wet & muddy miles & it's still hanging on in there ! The brakes are completely useless on it though, they've gone.

Just put a dropper on it as at 6'1" on the large, the front is low & my ar5e is high !It now rides even better than it did before 😀

Boost forks. Talk to me. Max tyre size 4"? What size hub would I need?

Would something like the 29er version of the Manitou Machette work ? 140mm travel

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/manitou-machette-forks-15mm-boost-2017/rp-prod149016

Next step of upgrading my Wazoo completed. For my birthday I treated myself to an RSP 125mm external dropper & a 29er Mudhugger fitted to the back end.

Is it me or do Fatbikes fly down hills?
Without pedalling down a hill mine excellerates faster than other bikes with normal size tyres on.
Drifts around tight twisty loose trails but never let's go...so far.
Great fun 8)

Still undecided if dropping the 22/36 at the front for a 28 single and a 11-46 XT cassette is a good move. The jump from 37-46t on the XT cassette seems far to broad.

Can't help think I'll be spinning out to quickly.

now running 26T up front, and loving the new range

I ran a 28T with an 11-42 cassette on my Smuggler and even on the road I was never really bothered by the lack of a taller top gear. If anything I would have liked a lower bottom gear. Even more so with a fatbike where the extra grip lets you climb cliffs. I think my ideal fatbike gearing may be a 26T with 10-42 cassette, but it's all personal preference of course.

26x42?? What are you guys riding up? So that's basically granny ring at all times. I run a 30t up front on a 10/42 cassette and that feels crazy low in first gear. There is only one climb I can think of in the Quantocks which is crazy steep where for the first few 10s of yards I have used first gear. Other than that's it's too low for anything else. I would have thought any lower a gear is so painfully slow as to be counter productive?

John

I assume you weigh approximately 8 stones?
26/42 is perfect for the huge wheels (they may be 26" rims, but the tyres add up to a huge diameter) plus winching my lard ass up anything resembling a hill.

It's also worth bearing in mind that 26/10 is basically equivalent to 32/12 (OK, 32/12.31 if you want to be pedantic), so you are only losing about one gear from the top. I think a lot of people are put off using a 26T by this idea that it's basically a granny ring, but forget that dropping from an 11 to a 10 tooth sprocket is a big difference.

It's all just personal preference at the end of the day though and depends on how you ride, where you ride and to some extent, what you ride. For example, I'm looking at going 1x on my Orange Five. I'd like to stick with a 32T chainring on that as the bike was basically designed around that size chainring. The Five is also for short blasts in the woods. The fatbike, on the other hand, is for bigger days out, winching myself up mountains (with 30-60 minute sustained climbs) then coasting back down. It has huge amounts of traction and no rear suspension to worry about. So 26T with a 10-42 would make sense. A bottom gear of 26/42 is certainly low, but appreciated when you are 30 minutes into a climb, breathing through your ears and faced with a steep ramp covered in loose rocks (a surprisingly familiar scenario up here). A 28T with 11-46 would also do the job, but would just be heavier with no real benefit.

Did anyone else buy one of those On One Fatty v1 wheels that were supposed to be Rear Disc Spaced, to fit the RDS carbon Fatty fork?

My FatNotFat 29er front wheel has been fine since installing the fork ~6 weeks ago, but I went to switch to my fat wheel setup yesterday and the front rotor is right up against the mounts and won't spin, as if it is Front Disc Spaced or something in-between (~2mm extra clearance would do it, while the FDS to RDS difference is ~4.8mm)!

I'm a bit pissed to say the least, I purposely bought that Fatty v1 wheel last summer because it was RDS and the default Wazoo front wheel is FDS.

Any ideas?

Finally went tubeless today on the DT Swiss BR2250 wheelset.
Fattystrippers! Couldn't be easier to fit..tyres went up no problem.
Dude now weighs 12.4kg. All the weight I've shaved off I can undo by fitting a dropper!

Anybody know what headset bearings I need to order for my Dune?

Just pulled the trigger on a large dune. Should be here in a few days.

Looking forward to my first ride on a fat bike. 🙂

n0b0dy0ftheg0at - Member

Any ideas?

Burn On One to the ground?

Got my large Dune yesterday - god I was excited! Taking it out of the box was worth the £500, what a silly and awesome chunk of tyres and yellow! 🙂

[img] https://40c9oa.bn1303.livefilestore.com/y4mO-173nCv2QiK2ncE5AzqQnGNKoGcmz8sP4PBgs1jEHx6coMt_vL8xZhq_Q_3zBNQgEdN-cudSiepvvx3MYqhNXnCvHP-injA28PHs-WZNpT2mK_MiafZqfuKKTHtCKLnGPgtG_12v5uXzxF3iHJc0heq6GHUmIeaPrjXa50TlJrrS-dCw69RQuwEG61yS4Akjlggfpqcy96KEE8ktbWT-w? [/img]

I had some cheap avids laying around, so didn't bother with the cable discs at all, straight onto the hydros. I was pleasantly surprised it had a 180mm rotor on the front. I did have to re-tap the top disk mount, wasn't very smooth at all and I was worried about it stripping.

The seatpost is still a bit short at the max mark, but just ok. I'm 5-10 ish.

I was very surprised to feel how light the wheels where. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but they aren't as heavy as imagined.

I'm happy with the 8 speed kit, I run 8 speed on my commuter and although it feels clunky, it lasts forever.

I went for a short blast, and so far think it's too early to draw too many conclusions, other than WEIRD and interesting!

I had 10 psi front and 12 psi rear (measured with a motorbike pressure gauge), and any breaking down steep trails seemed to make it stand-up, or veer, or just wobble. I need a bit more time to feel/understand what's happening with it and adjust when I'm doing I think - but not sure lower pressure would make this better?

Mashing the pedals makes it go in all sorts of directions but where you want. 😀 Guess that wide q-factor has a big impact.

It made muddy sections extremely easy - which for someone who struggles with mud, is great. Rode through a bottom bracket deep long puddle and it hardly slowed down.

Tyres seem ok, though I gather you can get much gripier tyres for mud. Shame the rims are drilled for car valves IMO.

I really enjoyed bouncing it down drop-offs, then trying to get it to slow down and turn for upcoming tight corners! Again, breaking hard seems to make it veer.

It's much harder work on the climbs than a rigid 29er (Surly KM), which is good because I wanted it mainly for getting in quick and tough 1 hour rides. By the time I get fast on this I'll be flying on the KM!

All in all I'm liking it, the fun factor is there and I'm itching to go and see what it can handle and learn how to ride it. I think the only issue I have is adjusting my riding to suit it, but for £500 I can see that it will be a load of fun, especially when winter rolls around.

This weekends job, tubeless. 😯

Then I've got a whole week off work to ride it! happy days! Will post some photos of my adventures.

How heavy are you? The veering sounds like self-steering which ime usually happens if your tyres are too hard.

I never got to take mine out of the box- but I did get to ride it through the shop and out the door 😆

97kg, so not light!

See, I'm leaning stuff here, I'd have sworn that tyres being too soft would fold about and self-steer...

Guess 8 psi would be next to try?

Edit - Just to add, after doing the chubclub this year, the Dune was my treat for getting under 15.5 st. 😀

I'm happy with the 8 speed kit, I run 8 speed on my commuter and although it feels clunky, it lasts forever

You're not wrong - Got my Dune last October & after a winter of riding up to now(probably 3000mls-ish), a Dyfi enduro, several long days in the saddle, it's still going strong & shifting well on the cheapo drivetrain.... Only real issue I have with the drivetrain is the jump from 1st to 2nd is a bit too much, but I'll stick with it until when it finally wears out....

I changed ;
- H/bars to some comfier carbon ones with some ergo grips
- Bel Air saddle, comfiest saddle going IMHO
- Dropper seat post, as at 6'1" it was very high at the back on the descents, best thing I've done to it TBH.
- Brakes that will actually stop it
- The tyres, had Floaters on it which were a vast improvement on the Juggers, just swopped to 4.8 JJ's(bit tight at the back, but fits...just !) which seem nice & quick

Northwind, good advice.

lowered the pressure and it started to behave much better. Not sure what I've lowered it to, just kept going until it rode better. Seems to roll better too..

Also figured out you have to really exaggerate the action of turning with your hips - if you don't point your torso where you want to go, the bike will go where it wants!

Once you get through the travel of the tyres and hit bigger bumps, you really realise how stiff the fork and frame are. On similar trails my steel KM is much smoother. I bet the ICT is a brilliant mix of the two, but maybe not worth the extra £1800. 🙂

After a long Wharncliffe session this January I treat mine to a Bluto, worth every penny.

Welcome to the Dune Club, the most expensive cheap fat bike you can buy. Despite the fact that it rides just fine as stock you can't help upgrading! Just the frame left as stock on mine once I get my wheels built up...

grenosteve - Member

I bet the ICT is a brilliant mix of the two, but maybe not worth the extra £1800.

If you chat to Roverpig from this parish he may part with his ICT frame and forks 8)

I was checking out a Dune a couple of weeks back. On top of the reduction to £499 they were doing an extra 15% off that too! I was sorely tempted to get one except I already have a fatbike, a Cube Nutrail.

What I will say is the Dune is a lot lighter than I was expecting, lighter than mine and I still think it would be even if you fitted Blutos. Gotta love that colour scheme as well.

Well, tubeless failed! I've done lots of wheels and tyres using my track pump and trusty 2l bottle. Fat tyres aren't having it though, think I need a compressor.

Decided to just put sealant in the tubes for now, but the cores aren't removable! 😡 well maybe they are and they're just tight, but I'm not willing to put anymore pressure on them. Its not like Fat tubes are easy to find in local shops!

97kg, so not light!

See, I'm leaning stuff here, I'd have sworn that tyres being too soft would fold about and self-steer...

Guess 8 psi would be next to try?

the starting point rule of thumb that gets quoted a lot (and mixes units in best British style) is 1psi for every 10kg of body weight. At 97kg I'd not drop from 12 to 8, that's a 33% reduction in one go.

grenosteve - Member

Well, tubeless failed! I've done lots of wheels and tyres using my track pump and trusty 2l bottle. Fat tyres aren't having it though, think I need a compressor.

It's a bit of a bollocks on the standard Dune wheels. Can be done but I got nowhere near until I started adding packing foam.

Dune wheels are pretty easy to ghetto tubeless with a split tube, On One were doing 24" fat tubes for £2 when I did mine.... If the tyres are a bit "baggy" on the wheel(like JJ's) use a few loops of insulation tape around the edge each side..I've always found that once ghetto is set up right it's just as good if not better than the proper tubeless way of doing. I've never burped a tyre with it, even had to cut some tyres off, the seal between the split tube & tyre has been that good !

One things for sure though, fat tyres are loads better without tubes in them. Dumping all that rotational weight & added thickness of the tube certainly helps.

Will give tubeless another go, but really seems like its pointless with just a track pump... Will have to borrow a mates compressor.

Was out again for over 3 hours this morning, really liking the fat bike. Did some trail centre stuff, downhill tracks, rocky narrow natural trails, XC loops, bogs, and just riding through the undergrowth between paths!

Got a PB by a long way on some DH tracks! The dune with the saddle down feels like an off-road BMX. 🙂 I like that you can brake as hard as you like almost anywhere without sliding.

Its slips liked any other bike on large wet rocks, but I'm OK with that, it helps with my nemesis, deep mud!

Really starting to get fast on it now, I can see why so many people have them as their only MTB.

Got some nice blisters and calluses developing on my hands, think the stock bars and grips need to go!

Split tube makes it a lot easier, I kept banging away at it til I had it working with just foam and tape. For some reason everyone used to recommend the schwalbe AV10D (or SV10D, I can never remember which one is presta and which is schrader) but the AV10/SV10 is much lighter, cheaper and is exactly the right width for an 80mm tyre- no need to cut it down.

Don't know about the on one options, I wanted as light as I could get while I was split-tubing but eventually moved on to tape only to save all the tube weight.

On One's 24" split tubes don't weigh too much TBH, you cut most of them off anyway, & anything is lighter than the tubes they come with as standard !

As for the bars & grips, I did one ride with them & binned them for carbon bars & ergo grips, much better. It's he most comfortable bike I own & after spending 8hrs riding it off road the other week I can certainly see why people use them for epic distances..

Fatty strippers are like split tubes without the weight. Don't cost much more than a tube either.

out of interest I'd heard 20 inch tubes are better for split 26" set ups ...was i misinformed ? hope not as i've ordered some superlight schwalbe 20 inch schraders from sjsc !
Also... fattystrippers ...need to buy 2 x valves on top + not reusable they say?
The tubes I ordered are
[url= https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/inner-tubes/schwalbe-av7c-xlight-schrader-tube-20-tyres-40406-to-60406/ ]these ones[/url]

Yes, you need valves (you can just cut some out of old tubes). You can reuse them if you don't trim them, but that looks crap, so mine are trimmed. And I don't change tyres anyway.

Out of interest are the Dunes big enough for tall guys ? I'm only 1.88 but tend to ride XL frames with a fair amount of post out as have long legs . I also Like a VTT around 60 to 63 cm .

I'm 6'1" & a large is perfect for me, but then I generally always ride large bikes in all brands I've tried Giant, Spesh Kona, Trek, On One, Cube, GT etc

Was chatting to a Go outdoors staff member the other day. He said they are looking to release an updated Dune later this year. He said it will be the same frame but with a Bluto fork, with better speced components and running 1x11 . He said that they are hoping to price it around the £1000 mark. Took it with a pinch of salt but would be interesting to see considering how they have released an updated version of the Bossnut.

If you chat to Roverpig from this parish he may part with his ICT frame and forks

Thanks NM, but it looks as though I might have to take the radical step of actually listing these for sale if I want to sell them. Which probably means they'll be sitting in my shed for a good while yet 🙂

RP..what sort of price are we talking for the whole bike?Might be tempted if cheap enough!It is a large no?

I'm using fatty strippers on BR2250 wheels. Setup couldn't be easier.
Apparently you can reuse them, but you need to carefully part the tyre from the fatty stripper as they get stuck together with the sealant.
I trimmed mine, but I'd say still reusable as the fatty stripper should still fit in the bead of the rim refitted.
Just need to lube them up to get the tyre bead to slide into place.
I used Stan's valves, just cut some old inner tube circles, think I used 3 on each valve.
Poke a small hole in the middle and put into the valve.
Hold the wheel horizontal, push the valve against something like a tabletop while pushing your bodyweight against the wheel.
Then screw up the locknut as tight as you can on the valve.

As most fatty rims are single wall, there isn't enough thread to get the lock nut tight enough on the valve to stop air leaking.
That's why I used the circles cut from an inner tube or even a fat rubber washer. For good measure I used two lock nuts on the valve.

Not sure if I'd want a Bluto on mine TBH -Part of the reason I bought it was to have a maintenance free bike that could be ridden all year, washed when I felt like it that just needed a spot of lube on the chain now & again.....Apart from a few upgrades & greasing the headset a couple of times it has been exactly that. Now I'm running 4.8 JJ's on it I don't feel the need for a bouncy fork, got other bikes for that...

RP..what sort of price are we talking for the whole bike?Might be tempted if cheap enough!It is a large no?

It is indeed a large although a "whole bike" could be a problem as it's currently in bits 🙂 I think I'm only a brake adaptor and a set of cables away from having all the bits to build it back up again, but finding the time to actually do that is another matter.

I'm not at the stage of giving it away, but happy to let it go to a good home for a "fair price". So, if you fancy a fatbike in kit form feel free to message me 🙂

Calibre Dune owners, I've just changed my wheels so now have the original wheels set up tubeless with On One Floaters that are surpluses to requirements. They've done October to March so not a lot of use.
Anybody interested as a winter wheel set up to save you swapping tyres?
I've no real idea of value but I imagine postage will be costly. email in profile.
I'm near Huddersfield if that helps.

...and I could hook you up with some alost new 4.8 jumbo jims to go with it!

John

My dude has been on a diet..
Hope fatsno hubs with XM551 27.5 rims..the grass hasn't been on a diet!

Yes the logos don't match up, but the tyres were so tight on the rim I couldn't be bothered to wrestle them round.
Have to take them off anyway as the gorrila tape supplied isn't holding them up tubeless, will try some 30mm tubeless tape I have.
Maybe I need two runs overlapping?
Diameter wise the ranger 3.0 are roughly 725mm, the 4.0 Jumbo Jim's measured 735mm.
If we take into account the higher pressure run on the rangers and less tyre sag, I've probably not changed the bottom bracket height.
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Had a quick spin round the block, and it feels very flickable and nimble

emac65 - Member 
Not sure if I'd want a Bluto on mine TBH....blah blah blah

Posted 3 days ago #

Ahem..... Well, that was before some git posted a PSA that On one were doing them for £299............. 😳

They're up to £350 now, still a bargain but I'd have to get a new front wheel/hub as well for my Wazoo so that adds a pile on too unfortunately

Anyone tried Schrader tubeless valves, especially with Fatty Strippers?

I'm just wondering whether Schrader would fit the valve cutout better in my Dune wheels, less faffing with old inner tube packing/spacers, and no need to take the valve cores out to get air in a hurry?

Or am there just as well off using valves cut out of old inner tubes packed out to fit?