[Closed] Would you buy a (new) fatbike for ~£1k?

Great little spot re the inner tubes...thanks just ordered a couple for my Dune replacement (the son in law now has the Dune). I've only gone and bought a new Specialized Fatboy (the one with carbon forks). To be fair comparing it to the Dune, it rides like it cost 3x the price and I can't recommend it highly enough if your budget stretches to Specilaized prices. The great thing is the son in law is already buying stuff to carry on riding the fatty in all weathers too.

Racebiek! At the Elliot Campbell Mountain Timetrial, which is a sort of XC race for the mental, or enduro race for people who don't like being able to breathe- a single 22km lap using an assortment of red route, pushup paths, swamps, downhill trails, enduro trails, and swamps.

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Muddy death today at innerleithen, had a totally predictable otb purely because a mud hole I tried to ride through, was too thick and sticky and it just grabbed the tyre 😆 Really not fatbike territory but I had a good laugh and wasn't last. Remains to be seen by how much I was not last, I'm going to guess I was in the bottom 20% 😆

I know bar width is a personal thing, just interested to see what most people are using.
Might be that numbers are all over the place.
I've got 780mm bars on mine, which are definitely to wide. Wondering how narrow I can go without the steering feeling odd..740mm?

780s on mine, and perfect for me but we're all different shapes. The golden rule is, cut em down, and eventually you'll reach the point where you've definitely cut off 20mm too much.

The fatty I borrowed had narrower bars than I'm used to and it felt like Ike it was steering itself at times. I'd move the your grips in and try it narrower before cutting.

Anyone able to confirm if a 4.8 JJ grips any better in muddy conditions than a 4.0 Floater?

Not really, but if it does the the floater mush be pretty awful 🙂 Certainly comparing a Bud/Lou combo with 4.8 JJs is chalk and cheese (and pretty slimy cheese at that).

Poops coop picture was taken at Poly Joke.

I read that the 4.8 JJs run much better than the 4.0s

@slimjim78 I'm finding Nates working really well in South Downs slime, much better than the original JJs - upon which I did lose the front end, put my hand out and sliced my glove and palm neatly in two on a flint....

The Nates are great, almost too grippy in thicker/deeper mud so you need to keep driving through to stop them bogging down, and draggy on firmer surfaces, but no slidey dramas like the JJs used to have.

I've not tried 4.8s mind, and I know Northwind rates the 4.8 JJ over the 4.0.

Yep, but it's all relative, the 4.8 is still bad in mud, it just slides a bit nicer and deals better with "mud on hard" like say a wet trail centre trail

Out of curiosity what is the minimum size of inner tube I need to carry as back up in the event of a puncture & my fatty stripper tubeless setup failing? Running 4inch Floaters.

Would I get away with a 26x3 ?

zippykona - Member
Poops coop picture was taken at Poly Joke.

Ah yes! Can see the sign better on the pc.
Happy times hiking round to there from Crantock not so many years ago.

Cheers bud, brought back songs great memories.

Fantastic place to ride a fat bike I bet!

I can confirm after tonight's ride that Floaters go mostly sideways heading downhill on mud but grippy climbing on mud. Everywhere else great fun (not, not fun on mud but definitely wild..)

This winter has been relatively mud free till February, is a Nate up front the equivalent of a Shorty?

I've ordered one of the Planet X pannier racks, I'll fit it at the weekend and let people know how it performs.

After a lot of thought, nearly spending £1500 on a bike without even riding one, coming back to reality and settling for a Dune, i've bought a second hand thing for a very reasonable amount. (Low)

Going shortly to collect it and just hope it's as straight and good as I'm led to believe.

Pics shortly 🙂

What gives O-o?? Mamoths ordered Sunday, arrived tuesday while i was at dialysis - by Yodel too! (I figured they couldn't kill rubber!) Way to go 😀

Here's my new toy.

Medium fatty with carbon forks, 1x10 with new chain and cassette and as originally sold components.

Got it for under £400 with the original 2x Sram components and a spare rear tyre thrown in. Very happy with the deal and a even had a good chat about biking when I picked it up.

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Not sure whether to put it back to 2x10 with the big cassette for a silly low gear, or just go to a 28 or 30t front and keep it 1x10 ?

As I bought it with the intention of having a laugh climbing up things, I'm thinking of reverting to 2x but, would appreciate other thoughts.

If I go to a 28t front and leave it single ring - do these fit onto the smaller 64pcd (iirc) of the granny ring and how do people find them?

Already thinking of a dropper and going tubeless.

So after a year of being fat curious I now have to wait a whole 8 days till be fat fixation comes to pass and although not technically under £1k Id still like to join the party ,especially after spending the last 2 hours reading this page about tyres.

Long and short Lives in the Peak district ,always muddy and wet , Jumbo Jims not all that clever , used to a Mary up front, looks like im going to have to get a set of Minions or 45nrths

Hurry up Canyon !

If I go to a 28t front and leave it single ring - do these fit onto the smaller 64pcd (iirc) of the granny ring and how do people find them?

I've stuck with 2x10 on my fatbike for now, as I like climbing cliffs, but I've got a 28T on my 1x10 Smuggler. It's mounted on the granny position of a double chainset (with a bash ring in the outer position, mainly for looks) and seems to work well. It moves the chainline in a bit, of course, but that suits me fine as I spend most of my time up that end of the cassette anyway.

Twonks, go for 2x10. This gives you access to the fatty's bestest party trick: the ability to climb just about anything. A fatty without is a fatty wasted, in my humble opinion. Then, at the oher end of the scale, you still have the option of a 36t ring pushing 11 for any steep track or road scariness.
If you have only 1x10, you'll have both fair gaps in the range, plus neither a truly low nor truly high gear available. That's lose-lose-lose in my book.

Thanks and you make a case that is difficult to argue against. Other than aesthetics and a slight weight reduction (which are not really valid), going back to 2x is the way to go.

Will sort it in the morning and go for a ride round the back end of Cannock. There is a particular hill I always struggle with and run out of grip on the regular bikes.

Should be interesting with loads of grip and super low gears 🙂

Which tubeless valves so I need for br2250 wheels? Sure I read somewhere that the normal Stan's ones don't work with these rims..

Dune owners, I've bought a second hand FSA Comet fat crank and BB. The non driveside cup bottoms out before it should, with a spacer added it feels ok. Any idea why?
Has anybody else had any issues?

The BB is a 100mm DH.

Maybe because of the mech mounting plate normally on the driveside, if you've gone 1x something?

Yep, its 1 x 10.

On closer inspection the threaded part of each cup is twice as long as a standard Hope BB. I think its just run out of thread inside the frame.
It works with a spacer on each cup but the instructions say to only fit a spacer to one side.

I've tightened it all up and while it turns ok there is definitely more resistance than normal. I might try it with a standard Hope non driveside cup and no spacer.

The reason I haven't used the Hope BB is that the fit of the crank is very tight on the Hope bearings and pulled the bearing out of the drive side cup on removal.

Mine is now 2x10 with a 24 and 36 at the front and 12 to 42 at the rear.

Works fine in the car park and now off for a proper ride to see how it feels.

The Sram X5 kit feels better than XT on my HT. Always been a die hard shimano fan but this may change my mind - will see how it fairs after a bit of sand, mud and rain 😉

Taped my rims up yesterday using gorilla clear repair tape.. Pumped like a madman only to then examine why my jumbo Jim's weren't going up.. There the non tubeless ones!

Anyone used the Maxiss mamouths? Are they as crap as they say in the wet? £30 from on one can't be sniffed at..

Success at last, Gpx cup on the drive side with one spacer, Hope on the non driveside. As I suspected, not enough threads for the longer GPX cup.

Goldigger, put some sealant in it!

Goldigger - like lightman says, you gotta lube those babies up - you weren't attempting a dry run were you?

Goldigger - Member

Which tubeless valves so I need for br2250 wheels? Sure I read somewhere that the normal Stan's ones don't work with these rims..

It's a wee bit fiddly becase they're singlewall rims- I use the alu superstar ones but they need a little finagling to work right because the taper sticks right through the rim and stops the lockring threading down. Various ways you can tackle that, I put cup washers from avid brakes (or cantis, same thing) on mine, perfect. There might be a better way though.

Guilty as charged, I was trying a dry run. All my wheels have gone up dry, might just be lucky there.

I did put a rubber washer on the valve to try and seal it up better.

Might have to borrow the neighbors compressor

Even on TL tyres, without sealant you'll lose pressure in the event of a puncture

Thanks for pointing out the obvious...

I inflate my tyres get them seated on the rim, remove the valve stem and add sealant...

Just seemed weird that you complained of a tubeless tyre deflating is all. Just trying to help

Not complaining of a deflating tyre, they need to have air in to do that.
I've not even got to the adding sealant part.
I didn't get passed stage 3 below..couldnt get the tyre to hold any air.
1.Tape rim.
2.Mount tyre.
3.Pump up like mad to seat the bead.
4.Let the air out.
5.Remove valve stem.
6.Add sealant.
7.Put valve stem back in.
8.Pump up.
9.Shake rim to distribute sealant.
10.Check for leaks.

Is it stock Dune rims? HAev you got the tyre to go onto the bead? (ie step 3?). I found that basically impossible without foam padding, even with a big compressor, the rim is just a bad shape for tubeless.

There DT Swiss BR2250 wheels..
Which don't really have a good profile for tubeless in my opinion
[img] [/img]

I'd agree with NW. I have the On-One Emmental (I think the same rims as the Dune). No luck at all getting the tyre seated (using a 'Ghetto' Airshot made from a 2l pop bottle). Just isn't happening

By the way, Goldigger, I wouldn't put the valve stem back in (Step 7). You'll get air in the tyre faster without it. Can then remove pump (or air supply), finger over valve and quickly screw the core back in. Obviously you'll lose a few psi but the tyre should stay seated

Goldigger - Member

There DT Swiss BR2250 wheels..
Which don't really have a good profile for tubeless in my opinion

No, they do not. Good beads but bad profile. There's more about this in the thread but there was supposed to be a tubeless kit for them, DT canned it, so they're like half a tubeless rim. Good news is once the tyre's on they're great. I found putting cable ties right round the tyre then gradually tightening them did the job (reusables, I'm not a savage) but I wouldn't fancy doing them with just a pump tbh.

I did try two leather belts linked together around the tyre, yanked them up nice and tight but still didn't get the tyre to go up...

i used an old 26" tube around the outside of the tyre on my 2250s after seating one side with a tube, went up fine with a flash charger

Look similar to the marge lites I've got. Nothing happens with just rim tape, even with a compressor. the tyre just sits there, not a glimmer of a suggestion of inflation.

You just need a strip of closed cell foam to fill the gap. weighs bugger all, just secure it with parcel tape or something, it's done its job as soon as the tyre's up, so it doesn't matter if it comes loose later.

I've had to admit defeat with tubeless on my Wazoo as well. Even with a fatty stripper over the rim it just won't take.

Not sure if its the wheel or the tyre (4" Floaters)causing the issue but it won't even go close to sealing. I think the tyres warped tbh (that or both wheels are buckled) even seems to fit oddly once back on with a tube. Was going to buy new wheels from On-One but none in stock just now (they have also officially withdrawn the fat not fat wheel set, no intention of sell in it again)

So out of curiosity what Would be the smallest size inner tubes I can pop into the wheel?

All my floaters have tubless(ed) fine

Goldigger - Member

I did try two leather belts linked together around the tyre, yanked them up nice and tight but still didn't get the tyre to go up...

I think the advantage of cableties is it tightens more evenly, you can cinch them up individually. But still, some tubeless feels like it's going to happen and it's just a matter of effort, other tubeless feels like it might or it might not and they're the latter I think. I was pretty close to adding foam (just for mounting, not for the bead) but I've always got it to work so far.

So out of curiosity what Would be the smallest size inner tubes I can pop into the wheel?

The SV13Js are quite a bit heavier but work fine. Fit/forget

Not complaining of a deflating tyre

This gave the impression that you were:

Pumped like a madman only to then examine why my jumbo Jim's weren't going up.. There the non tubeless ones!

And this:

I wouldn't put the valve stem back in (Step 7). You'll get air in the tyre faster without it.

Always easier to inflate, or at least, seat the rims on the bead (your initial goal) with core removed. Some soapy water around edge of rim helps to pop the bead up, on troublesome tyres I somtimes add a little sealant to the tyre before adding air, helps to create a seal on the first desperate tyre dance/shake off.

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TYSCJJLS/schwalbe-jumbo-jim-liteskin-fat-bike-tyre from £53, going on photo they are 4.8", but in typical PX fashion there is a quality description of product. 😆

All JJs are 127 tpi I guess 100/120 refers to the width in mm (4.0"/4.8")

steveojo69 - Member
I've ordered one of the Planet X pannier racks, I'll fit it at the weekend and let people know how it performs.

Has the rack turned up yet? Did you buy panniers at the same time and if so, do they look they will die if you look at them in the wrong tone of voice? 😯

With regard to setting the BR2250 wheels up tubeless: maybe I'm just lucky, but I've just taken the Bud/Lou off and put the 4.8" JJs back on. So, that's three sets of tyres I've put on these rims now and they've all gone on just fine with an airshot, which was a pleasant surprise given the volume of a 4.8" tyre.

I set the rims up with a few wraps of Gorilla tape. So nothing special there. I did run the tape tight to each side of the rim (so it goes over the bead). Maybe that helps. I also use a tube to seat the bead on one side, before hitting it with the airshot to seat the other side.

As Northwind says, once they are on they are pretty secure. I've run as low as 3psi over rock hard frozen mud with no problems.

rocketman - Member
All JJs are 127 tpi I guess 100/120 refers to the width in mm (4.0"/4.8")

now also avaliable in 4.4

now also avaliable in 4.4

Has anybody tried these? I love my 4.8s but keep wondering about something a bit narrower for the summer (lighter and lower the BB). But by all accounts the 4.0 don't work as well as the 4.8, so I wonder about 4.4.

I bought a 4.4 during the Athleteshop JJ bargains ~6 weeks ago, but it is still in the box being shielded from UV, still masses of rubber to wear on my 4.0 set from last Easter.

Visually, the tread looks no deeper than on the 4.0s (~3/5/10mm centre to outer edge), whereas I'm led to believe the thread is much deeper on 4.8s.

Visually, the tread looks no deeper than on the 4.0s (~3/5/10mm centre to outer edge), whereas I'm led to believe the thread is much deeper on 4.8s.

Is that right? I didn't know that. I've never measured the height of the tread on my 4.8" JJs, but it's not very aggressive.

[img] [/img]

Mind you, my only other fatbike (front) tyre reference is a Bud !

[img] [/img]

n0b0dy0ftheg0at - Member
steveojo69 - Member
I've ordered one of the Planet X pannier racks, I'll fit it at the weekend and let people know how it performs.

Has the rack turned up yet? Did you buy panniers at the same time and if so, do they look they will die if you look at them in the wrong tone of voice?

Rack is a little flimsy but should be ok for light duties. My Altura panniers don't fit very well so I am looking for a cheap pair that fit.

It doesn't sit horizontal either.

[img] [/img]

Jumbo Jim 4.4's came standard on my cube nutrail. I like them but haven't tried anything else. Only place they can be hard work is deep mud, otherwise they are great.

Thanks. The 4.8" JJs are crap in the mud too if that's any consolation. Hence the Bud/Lou combo in the winter. It's great to be back on the JJs though. Almost feels like cheating 🙂

Got the Dr br2250 and jumbo Jim's to inflate.
Put the tube back in and rode it since I taped them up.
Deflated, pop one side of the tyre off and removed the tube.
Pulled the tyre back on to the bead as best I could, inflated and went straight up.

Only problem being leaking air around the valve, even with a oring either side of the rim..
Maybe sealant will close the holes.

Got the valve sealed but air was leaking through the cutouts, even with 3 layers of tape. 2 to the rim bead over lapping in the middle then one over the middle.
I pressed out every air bubble I could in the tape.

Pulled it all out and put the tube back in.

Fatty stripper next.

Like others have said, depends on how much use and where you're going to use it, if you're buying it to use as an all-round MTB bike including something that feels alive on the trails, yes you would but second hand, buying new, I'd put a bit more to it than a grand.

You'll only end up spending that extra on upgrades (which is fine, some prefer to do that as and when needed and when they can afford to)but if you can scout out something new that's been reduced, with blutos and a half decent spec for that bit extra then it will be worth it trust me.

Not read through all the replies, hope you get sorted, you won't regret it!

https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/bmx-bikes-c3/retro-bmx-c28/fat-ripper-26-bmx-bike-2016-p15166

Bit weighty though and cable brakes.

PK Rippers & Quadangles, what I wouldn't have given for either..

@letitreign: I love that you came in to page 57 of the thread and still answered the original question 🙂

@Goldigger: For my DT Swiss rims I just used two layers of 50mm wide Duct Tape back-to-back to make the rim strip then two wraps of 75mm wide Duct tape (one wrap pushed tight to each side). It's been holding fine for around 9 months now (including a couple of tyre changes). It does seem to be a bit of a lottery though.

Cheers Roverpig, I might just do a split tube..i really don't want to be fixing a puncture on a tube.. Half an hour of pumping.!

On another note I'm interested to see how many people have gone 1x10/11 from the stock 2x10.
Did you get a decent range and low enough gear for the fatty?

I've got a lot mounted on the bars. Brakes, gear shifters, rockshox lockout and soon a dropper remote. Would like to loose the left shifter at least and change the right shifter for a ispec so I can attach to the brake lever.

Then there's the e-thirteen yes cranset, it has a removable spider so I could mount one of their direct mount 28t/30t chainrings. But looking about there is a fatbike chainring, how's this different to a normal chainring? Offset for chain line?

I bought one of those cheap phaart pumps from on one. Was surprised how quickly it inflated the tyre considering how small it is.

The raceface options are really good- I put an aeffect for 170mm rear on mine, perfect fit and good weight. And I think a 28T chainring. That'd be too low for a normal bike but I really don't miss it on the dune. A few others have pretty much the same, it's a good balance of price and performance I think.

Something like a truflo 2-stage makes a lot of sense for a fatbike- low pressure, high volume. Bit bigger than a pocket pump but inflating a fatbike tyre with a pocket pump is just horrible.

Cheers Northwind,
I noticed Canyon put a 28t on the single Crankset dude.
But the 11-46 cassette they also put on having the 37-46 jump seems a bit pants. Of course there's the sram option which has been talked about enough on here 🙂

Regarding pumping tyres up, I was looking at the 12g refillable Co2 cartridges, not sure if that's enough for a fat tyre 4.0 upwards?

I run Co2 on my fish tank so filling them up isn't a problem, would just need to source or put together an adaptor.

I have an 11-42 on mine, works for me- old style expanded 10 speed.

I found the gearing a wee bit unituitive tbh. I worried that 28-42 wasn't low enough, but what i found is that at crawler speed, a fatbike's not so different from a normal bike on grippy tyres. It's only when you want it to go faster that the drag really kicks in- all about hysteresis, you're pushing against the tyre's lag in deformation, so the faster you go the more you have to push.

Or that's how I explain it, anyway. Important thing was, when I want to really crawl- a long steep grind, or the last climb of the day, that's a low enough gear

Anyone interested in a 30T Cinch oval chain ring for their fatbike? Its an Absolute Black one (albeit, green) thats covered no more than 25 miles.

I've gone smaller, most of my uphill rides are against the wind so I need all the help I can get!

Does anyone know if the On-One Fatty Trail frame will ride ok with the On-One steel Fatty Fork? I'm planning on a cheap build and a trail frame looks to be cheaper second hand than the non trail frame.

Since this thread has bumped anyway just a note for anyone fat curious that i'll be selling a blue XL Surly Ice Cream Truck very shortly. Just needs a wash and will be in the classifieds but drop me a mail if interested. Its had very little use.

I'd be tempted to buy one of these ku bikes 16" fatbikes if they get past the prototype..depending on price.
Our 5 year old would love one.
[img] [/img]

20" starts at €795
[img] [/img]

Does anyone know if the On-One Fatty Trail frame will ride ok with the On-One steel Fatty Fork?

Someone fitted the carbon fork to a Fatty Trail on UK Fatbikes forum and then used a 4.4" (or was it 4.8"?) tyre up front, with a 4.0" at the rear, to try and correct the 120mm suspension geometry of the frame.

I'll have an 18" fatty on the classifieds later too for way less than 1k. Just waiting for the rain to stop so I can wash and photograph it.

PX now have El Guapo fat wheels in 135/170mm Q/R flavour with post mount spacing (FDS?) for £199.

States they don't fit the On One forks, which incidentally, I hope to finally have installed in the coming days by LBS.

........

Tooh fa'zund!