[Closed] Would you buy a (new) fatbike for ~£1k?

Cycleworks in Haslemere have a Spesh Fatboy in blue, Med/17.5 for half price £750 from £1500. 4.8 tyres? definitely on the larger side.

NICE! That a great price for someone.

I finally fitted my Bluto, took me a bit of faffing to drop the lowers and install a longer air shaft but the whole process was straightforward and rewarding.
First impressions, well, aesthetically I was a bit gutted as I had just got the bike set up in all its yellow glory, with orange trim, but without the big yellow fork it's lost a little of its charm IMO

However, as part of my air shaft swap I took someones advice of switching to Slick Honey fork grease, and by George does the Bluto feel good first ride out! Plusshhhhhh.
Once im over the man flu ill take it for a proper ride and get a true feel for my new found boing.

That is a good price... Especially when I was just looking at the on one fatty trail with Bluto 120mm RL and reverb for £600.

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/ZX121FATTY/on-one-fatty-trail-frame,-fork--and-seatpost-bundle?utm_source=The+Planet+X+and+On-One+Mailing+List&utm_campaign=eec56aba25-100117&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_561486488b-eec56aba25-271317897&mc_cid=eec56aba25&mc_eid=e7dd893310

Those frame/dropper/fork bundles, including the Fatty Trail/ Reverb/ Blut,o have all dropped at least £100 since the e-mail I got ~2.5 hours ago and posted about earlier! 😆

At £500, it's a very good deal.

Fit the fork and dropper to your current fatbike and keep the Trail frame as a spare, or build it up as a singlespeed; rigid etc.

I'm tempted to buy one and build up a fatbike.. but how much is a decent set of wheels? And are the hub sizes needed for the on one standard and can be swapped to another frame in general? Or are they some odd ball that is useless on most other fatbike frames?

It's 170QR rear, which IMO is almost certainly going to be one of the losing standards. But it's not [i]oddball[/i], exactly, it's just that fat standards still aren't settled. As long as you get a hub that'll swap for 177 bolt-through you're reasonably safe, there's a lot of 177 rear frames out there. And it's not like there's anything wrong with teh Fatty Trail frame anyway.

(I think 197 is going to be the overall winner tbh, there's little drawback to it, but it's the bike industry so who knows? Maybe 189.5 will replace all the standards)

TBH wheels are always tricky- wheels and tyres do so much to define how a fatbike rides. On One sell a 3kg set for £300 which use the same OE spec rims as you get on a Dune, pretty cheap heavy stuff for a £300 wheelset but it'll do the job well enough. Halo Tundra might be better, not sure (same rim again but with different cutouts)... Or maybe you could find a used set...

It's not ideal but I have the wheels from my Dune. The front'd fit, the rear wouldn't, it'd need a new hub. But they'd be cheap 😉

Yeah I see what you mean about standards for hub sizes on the fat bike..googled a few fatbike to check the specs:
Trek Farley 9 150/197
Specalized Fatboy 135/190
Scott Big Ed 150/197
Surly ICT 150/197

Seems 150/197 is the norm..
So the on one with 170 rear isn't going to lend itself to much use if you decide to swap the frame for something else..

Agreed. IMO, it's why they're pretty much giving the frames away now.
Hope have also stopped producing the 170 hubs.

I wonder if we'll see a Fatty V3 this side of 2018?

Hope have stopped producing 170/177 hubs???? Still listed as current on their pro4 section of their website. The 170 hub shell is the same as the 177, which is still current for many 4" fattys such as:
Salsa bsargrease
Mukluk
Surely Wednesday
Smokestone Henderson
On one trail

Plus more, the truth is 197 isn't needed for 4" fat bikes and the fact that some fattys with 177 and 100bb fat bikes can run upto the minion sized fatty rubber on br710's, I'm still not sure why anyone would want a wider rear end. I can't see the benefit (personally). As I see it now their are two fat bike standard which are hear to stay 177 for 4.0 and 197 for 5.0. I can't see either disappearing soon

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBOOFATCFNX/on-one-fatty-sram-nx1-fat-bike £800 with carbon fork

I doubt we'll see another rear-hub standard for fatbikes for a while because there are few 190/197mm rear frames that'll take the biggest currently tyre available, Snowshoe 2XLs. The original 2XL prototypes were actually bigger at 5.6" but production were smaller. 2XLs aren't really needed except for deep snow - I'm running one up front on mine as I'm off to the arctic next month. Likewise, 150mm is now the defacto front hub standard and fatbike cranks have settled on 120mm spindles. Whilst an even bigger tyre would give more float, it's actually quite difficult to ride deep snow because the conditions change - you fall off (a lot) and even getting the bike upright and remounting is tricky when you're up to your knees in snow - you just end up pushing anyway.

Got to say, having rode my Fatty Trail hard on some pretty rough singletrack - I have no problem with the 170mm QR. The bike is just as stable as the Chief and Bird were (both bolt thru rear maxles) and is loooaaads more fun. Happy Chappy.

It's not like we really needed bolt thru axles on any standard - they just became/are becoming the norm.

I don't think I can even tell the difference in riding, I just quite like the aesthetic and simplicity of the design. I find fitting the rear wheel easier too.

There's definitely nothing wrong with QR 170 in use, but that wasn't the question.

£500 for that's an amazing deal. Shame I'd get shot for buying it. Nvm

Anotherstan just listed a set of halo tundra wheels in for sale that'd perfect for one of those OOFT frame-and-fork kits. They're not posh (same rims as the Emmenthals) but they're a great buy assuming they're in good nick. He's got X5 cranks for it too.

Just sayin.

I got some br710's on hope hubs for sale as well which would be perfect!

I left a message on your For Sale thread Russy - im probably not your best customer though, as I need a 190 rear hub - and i'm a tight ar$e

Slimjim calling Northwind - Am thinking of purchasing a pair of BR710's and building up on (probably) Hope Fatsno's - how did you find the spoke calculators when configuring your fat wheel build?
Also, anything 'odd' i need to consider regarding sourcing hubs and spacing on the Dune?
Have heard a 3 cross pattern is best for heavyweight fat builds - do you concur?
Finally, did you go tubeless on your 710's using the OE rim strips?

Can't help with the spoke lengths, so I'll leave that to Northwind, but I set up my BR710 rims tubeless just using duct tape of the right width. If I did it again I'd look for a less absorbent tape, but they were easy to set up and have been running just fine since May (with Jumbo Jim, Bud and Lou tyres at various times).

On the back of my Fatbike only MTB thread I'm just looking at the Dunes v Fatty v Fatty trail.

Is the Fatty trail worth the extra over the dune? Is the regular Fatty £250 better? I'd have thought that the trail would be worth extra just for the bluto, the extra reach is just a bonus.

I see there's a large Dune too now, hmmmm.

I got my BR710s tubeless using this PVC tape: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+%26+Sealants/d180/Tapes/sd2420/Polythene+Jointing+Tape/p69026

I also trimmed a couple of mm from each side of the original rim strip to give more rim area for the tape to stick to. After fitting the tape, inflated with a tube to 20psi, left overnight, removed the bead from one side, removed tube, fitted tubeless valve, lay wheel on bucket (unseated bead face down) then ghetto compressor @ 60psi to seat it again. Whacked in the sealant - job's a good 'un.

slimjim78 - Member

Slimjim calling Northwind - Am thinking of purchasing a pair of BR710's and building up on (probably) Hope Fatsno's - how did you find the spoke calculators when configuring your fat wheel build?
Also, anything 'odd' i need to consider regarding sourcing hubs and spacing on the Dune?
Have heard a 3 cross pattern is best for heavyweight fat builds - do you concur?
Finally, did you go tubeless on your 710's using the OE rim strips?

I used DT Big Ride hubs but it's all the same really. Watch the offset, is the only trick. I rashly assumed that DT's own calculator with all their parts would give the right answer but even after choosing the parts which autofills all the settings, you have to manually change some of the autofilled settings in the calculator. Dicks. I did 3 cross but I'm no expert, it just seems to be the default. They were the first wheels I'd ever built but it all went pretty smoothly once Bencooper shortened all the spokes for me.

Tubeless... The BR rim strip is just a cloth strip, no good for tubeless. Apparently there was supposed to be a DT tubeless kit but they never made it. The rims are weird for that, they're not that easy to inflate a tyre on but they have a proper tubeless ready locking bead, so it's a mix of pain in the arse to set up, but perfect once up. Kind of half ghetto.

I sealed mine with PVC tape- and I think a little gorilla tape to improve the fit, the huge cutouts mean there's really not much metal left to tape to. So I had a narrower "rim strip" which is the bit you see, which is PVC tape sticky side up. And then a slightly wider band of the same over that to seal it. TBH it was a pain in the cock. Fatty Strippers might be the better option! But I'm really pleased with it, it's light and reliable and I wanted the yellow

All in all they're not perfect but they're still bloody good rims. I was tempted towards chupacabras for the tubelessness but they're heavier... And I couldn't find a carbon one that seemed to have as good balance, I didn't want to go narrower. So I'd buy them again if I had to.

Slightly different 'build kit'. But I've a Large Fatty Trail (new), On-one wheelset (used), X5 cranks (used, with new-ish gusset BB), floaters (lightly used). Basically a bluto short of everything you'd need to build a fat bike from the contents of your spares box (brakes, finishing kit, etc).

Bought with the intention of building a bluto'd fat bike, but redundancy kaiboshed that plan. £300 if anyone's interested (£250 collected from Reading).

Thanks for the feedback NW. TBH, I thought that I recalled your set up going swimmingly so its deflating to hear that tubeless set up is also a bollock-ache on the 710s.

I think you're right on the fattystripper front though - in fact, the best results I've had on my Dune wheelset is to 'copy' a fattystripper rim tape of sorts by glueing an extra wide exercise band into a loop using standard puncture repair glue (a nice thin smear over a good 3" square surface area - once cured it creates a nice sealed loop much like the fatty stripper version (god knows where they source their loops, I assume they glue them in-house).
In the end though, I've simply ordered a pair of fattystrippers for when I next need to set up tubeless.

Have been offered a pair of new 710's for £210 - so am very tempted to go ahead at this price. If there was an obvious better choice for my riding id be tempted (clown shoes? chinese carbon?), but the weight savings and DT quality swing it 710s direction currently.
Having said that, I noticed a rider weight limit on them which I would be pushing slightly past.. whats the worst that could happen right?

In other news, im yet to hear my Floaters 'ping' onto the Dune rims - in fact when set up at around 11psi I can still effectively push the tyre off the sidewall with my fingertips and hear air escape. I have inflated them to 40psi and awaited expectantly for the snap (or explosion) to take place, but nothing. I note above that one chap inflated to 60psi - dare i try this?

I note above that one chap inflated to 60psi - dare i try this?

No, mine exploded at 20psi (although On-One to their credit replaced it FOC so they may/may not have strengthened them since then). If it's on the rim evenly then it's seated as well as it's going to.

Ah, ok. Yes, it's nice and even. I had better crank down the pressure then (gulp)

Just noticed I can import a pair of BR710's from .DE for around £180. Looks a way better deal than I've been offered.
With around 10-20% off Hope Fatsno's at CRC at the moment, it looks like a reasonable price can be had for a nice wheelset (around £440 all in pending spoke price) if willing to build yourself.

I never had the tyres ping on the Dune rims either, from memory. It's just one of those things, not all rims ping, depends on the bead shelf and the pressures involved.

slimjim78 - Member

Thanks for the feedback NW. TBH, I thought that I recalled your set up going swimmingly so its deflating to hear that tubeless set up is also a bollock-ache on the 710s.

It's a totally different level of bollock-ache compared to the Dune rims tbh. With one, you're basically doing tubeless from scratch, with the other the rim is probably halfway there already. Not ideal but not the same thing

Also, to be fair I probably made it harder for myself with my yellow rim tape obsession 😆

10%off at gooutdoors until next Tuesday , if anyone fancies a dune for £540.
Code 10JAN17

/\ dont forget topcashback!

Anyone put a Bluto on a Dune yet? Might swap the still not sorted bossnut for a Dune depending on how my ride on friday goes. Tempted by the lack of maintenance at the moment but might want to put a fork on when the cash allows, but the seat tube is pretty slack already.

Half tempted but a fatty trail, but put off by the narrower hub spacing, it also means finding a bit more cash which I'm loathe to do as a certified cheapskate and pauper.

yeah I fitted a Bluto a couple of weeks ago - I bought one of the cheap 80mm versions at CTBM and sourced a 90mm air shaft for about £15 which I fitted myself (learnt a shed load about the fork in the process). Seems about spot on at this length, may be tempted by a 100mm air shaft at some point but not sure i'd go any longer.

I haven't been out on it much since but that will change this week, the limited mileage i've done so far has proven very favourable - it just feels like a sorted hardtail now.

If given the choice of Fatty Trail or Bluto'd Dune again - i'd personally pick the Dune every time.
Also, I still have the rigid fork of course, which means if I ever need to remove the Bluto for any length of time I can still ride. But in all honesty, once you've had one of these solo air Rock Shox apart you'll appreciate how easy they are to maintain and replace parts as required. Just invest in some basics from the start (seals/fork grease/suspension oil/circlip pliers) and you'll be good to go for years.

Will add some pics soon. Also picked up a bargain Mulefut SL wheelset this week so really looking forward to a painless tubeless set-up

For anyone just wanting to try a simple & quick set up for tubeless - I bought some cheap 24" fat tubes off On One & ghetto-ed them. Kept the original rim strip & applied plenty of soap on the floaters, blew them up to about 20-25 psi & then left them hanging over a hot radiator for a few hours. With the air expanding & the rubber becoming more supple with the heat, they seated nicely...

Bluto'd Dune

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Looks good that.

I'm off for the definitive test ride on Friday morning, so should have decided what to do in the afternoon. Today I'm veering towards sticking with the normal bike, I'd love a fatty, but as an only MTB I'm not sure. We'll see

Does look the biz with a Bluto tho.

It's now my only MTB - as other Fatsters will attest, once you've ridden fat for a while and then try riding a 'normal' bike it just feels plain wrong!
I just love the grip levels available.

After 20 miles round Wharncliffe on Monday my wrists say they want a Bluto!
But once again, the Dune acquitted itself well, from Steel City to Wharncouver's berms it took the lot in its stride. And it excelled in the rootier trails and slower techy rock sections.

Ooh, like the Blutoed Dune. It's on my to-do list fo sho.

Very nice slimjim.

Looks good. Did you change the tyre pressures at all with the Bluto? I'm toying with adding a Bluto in the summer, but I keep reading about folk increasing tyre pressures "to make the fork work", which kind of defeats the purpose of the big fat tyres I would have thought. But I've not tried it, so it's all just speculation.

Looks great.

How heavy is it with the Bluto fitted?

Did a lap around Cannock this morning on the borrowed rigid fatty, I'd need a bluto if I was buying buying one, which I might, but I'm not sure.

FFS It was meant to help me make my mind up today.

The self steer that some have mentioned, is that the feeling that the bike is pulling to the side? In a couple of places, I had hairy moments where the bike tried to ride up the side of little gullies, is that a tyre pressure thing? Floater on the front tubeless if it makes any difference.

Athleteshop have some decent looking prices on Schwalbe fat tyres in their sale, under 50 squids.

Personally I'm quite happy to keep the fatty rigid, maybe if it was my only bike I'd consider a Bluto .. Certainly don't feel the need for one around Cannock though....

Athleteshop have some decent looking prices on Schwalbe fat tyres

You're not kidding!

What version do I want for running tubeless? litskin/tubeless easy/snakeskin? (Im lead to believe the best option isnt as obvious as whats printed on them)

Planning to grab a couple 4.8 inchers

Braking bumps really beat me up, I was riding it like I'd ride any other bike though, son of chainslapper down the werewolf drop was particularly uncomfortable. My neck is killing me now a couple of hours later.

The aches wear off after a couple of weeks on the rigid - I felt like my arms/hands got stronger as a result too.

Did you change the tyre pressures at all with the Bluto?

First impressions on the Bluto though (at close to my 'normal' pressure), were that it was immediately obvious that I had a suspension fork fitted - which is a relief.
More comfort straight out of the box, yet to take it down any descents though.

@slimjim78 Snakeskin version should make tubeless a sure thing, not that I could tell you either way, as I'm yet to try any tyres tubeless including my JJ snakes! From what I've read, the tread on 4.8" JJs is far better than that on 4.0" for off-road, presumably 4.4"s are somewhere in the middle.

With all this Brexit price hiking going on, part of me thinks go wild in the virtual isles at Athleteshop, as I reckon we could easily be paying £70+ for JJs in the near future.

But then I want to know what price Vee Apache fatty Slicks are going to be available at from anywhere for UK delivery. Not to mention I've no idea if a 4.4" JJ or a 4.6" Fatty Slick would fit the Wazoo rear, even if the Carbon Fatty Fork supposedly has clearance for a 4.8" front tyre.

There are some other very good prices for non-fat stuff there too, such as 29x2.25 Ice Spiker Pros, which all this recent icy weather has made me think more seriously about spiked tyres than ever. But then Charlie has some 45Nrth Gravdals at a promo price, which besides being cheaper, may wear an awful lot better on the roads.

As ever, I see some interesting things at nice prices and I'm confused.com! 😳

Braking bumps really beat me up, I was riding it like I'd ride any other bike though, son of chainslapper down the werewolf drop was particularly uncomfortable. My neck is killing me now a couple of hours later.

As already stated, it takes time to get used to riding rigid & letting your arms & legs be firm but loose. If your neck's sore then I'm guessing your grip was overly tight & your arms too stiff... After 3-4 rides it starts to get easier..

You're more than likely right, I was panicking a bit because I was struggling to brake with all the pinballing going on. It was certainly an enjoyable experience, but I don't think I'll be able to give up the full suss yet.

I've had a look through the Strava times and despite me not really riding my mountain bike since September(!) I wasn't really any slower on the fatty, I even got a PR on Zig Zak and it's fastest of the day, which is nice.

I haven't given up (& never would) on the FS either, was out on it today around the Chase 🙂

I have to stop reading this thread!! I went from 29er to 29er plus then 27.5 plus in the form of a genesis tarn .... but I still have the yearning for a fatty ...it's probably one of the few bikes I have never tried. I spend a lot of time over the Chase as my folks still live over there and it's where I grew up and see the fat bike boys smiling like kids - I often feel like asking to have a quick try but never do because I know where it will lead 😉 I have been looking at the Caribou for a while (because I can get a good deal on one) but not sure what to do - sell the tarn and go full fat for Chase duties (I have a 29er tarn built up for other times)?

If anyone is about over the Chase this weekend and wants to let me play on their fat bike let me know - the wife will love you ! 🙂

Lee

Prawny,I live on the chase,if I was only going to ride the dog/monkey -like I used to do,I would have a 29er hard tail or shortish travel full sus,however there is far more to the chase than them and the off piste stuff makes much more sense on a fatty in my opinion.

@mm93 I agree, my mates have all got fattys now (good ones with Blutos) but I don't do half as much MTBing as them so generally stick to the main trails and better known off piste stuff and hammer it for an hour or two. If I was doing 3-4 hour group rides I think a fatty would be the most sensible bike in a way.

As I have only got room for the one bike I'll keep the full susser and nick the wife's 29er if the weather is crap 😆

When I got mine I thought I'd get a bluto- even if just to have a choice. But tbh now I don't think I will. A bigger front tyre does help, for sure- but I've solo'd a 7 hour xc race and an enduro race on it rigid, ridden dh tracks and stuff we built for the enduro world series... And tbh being rigid adds to the whole joyous stupidity of the thing. I'll chuck it down fort william this year, that may well destroy my arms but it'll be funny...

(my incredibly bendy bars help, to be fair!)

Late delivery from Santa..
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It's now official, my Dune is the cycling equivalent of Triggers broom.

NW - I recall you squeezing a 4.8 JJ in rear of your Dune - but iirc, you had to run lower pressures to keep from fouling against seat stay arch? As I intend to run 11psi minimum on rear would I be best sourcing one of the 4.4 JJs in your opinion?

NW - I recall you squeezing a 4.8 JJ in rear of your Dune - but iirc, you had to run lower pressures to keep from fouling against seat stay arch? As I intend to run 11psi minimum on rear would I be best sourcing one of the 4.4 JJs in your opinion?

Ehhhh. Not actually sure but I don't think so. The Bud did foul at higher pressures but it was pretty high, I maybe posted it in the thread but i can't remember. Tubeless fitting pressures not sensible riding pressires.

I'm not 100% but I'm pretty sure the JJ would be fine at 11psi.

AH, I missed a bit off. Basically Bud is a very stretchy tyre so it grows a lot with pressure. The minions and jjs I have do grow a little but nothing like as much. And the JJ is a little smaller too. I might be able to mock this up but I'm not sure when I'll have time

Anyone here know if a 4.4" (or 4.8") Jumbo Jim will clear ok on the rear of a Voodoo Wazoo?

How about a 4.8" JJ clearing fine using an On One Carbon Fatty Fork?

Athleteshop have some good prices, especially on the 4.8"s (~£42)...
https://www.athleteshop.co.uk/schwalbe-tyre-26-schwalbe-jumbo-jim-tubeless-easy-snakeskin-fatbike-120-559-folding-tyre-black
https://www.athleteshop.co.uk/schwalbe-tyre-26-schwalbe-jumbo-jim-liteskin-fatbike-100-559-folding-tyre-black
https://www.athleteshop.co.uk/schwalbe-tyre-26-schwalbe-jumbo-jim-tubeless-easy-snakeskin-fatbike-100-559-folding-tyre-black
https://www.athleteshop.co.uk/schwalbe-jumbo-jim-folding-tyre-110-599-26x4-40
https://www.athleteshop.co.uk/schwalbe-jumbo-jim-wire-daek-110-599-26x4-40
https://www.athleteshop.co.uk/schwalbe-tyre-26-schwalbe-jumbo-jim-liteskin-fatbike-120-559-folding-tyre-black

Decent looking price for the SKS Grand DAD front guard too.
https://www.athleteshop.co.uk/sks-grand-d-a-d-extra-wide-dirtboard

Sign up to newsletter on site for £4.88 discount code and use Topcashback (there was a £5 bonus last night for a single purchase anywhere over £10), so two JJs cost me ~£80 plus postage. 8)

Just ordered some of those cheap JJs for my Fatty Trail. Also have some BR710s in the shed waiting to be laced onto JRA Snow Pig hubs. Should make quite a difference.

Did you guys order the Tubeless version or liteskin?

Some of Athleteshop's descriptions are a mess, I ordered the "wired" 4.4" because its weight (1230g IIRC) matched the snakeskin weight at https://www.schwalbe.com/en/offroad-reader/jumbo-jim.html , while the 4.0" was listed as tubless easy and so must be the snakeskin version.

Fingers crossed the wired version doesn't turn up then

4.4 JJs only come as liteskin or snakeskin, unless the official Schwalbe site is out of date and doesn't show a wired variant. 😉

I wanted to order a set of 29x2.35 G-One Speeds because of the incredible price, but the site page was very conflicting! It has info for the 60-622 and 30-622 variants and there is only a 30-622 tubular variant, all other sizes are clinchers. Sent a message asking for conformation on Friday, still waiting for answer.

Just took the plunge on a pair of tubeless ready 4.8s, works out £25 cheaper than the liteskins for a 200g weight penalty (total), but should also hold up better on local flint trails.

I went for 4.8 Liteskin front, 4.4 Snakeskin rear.
I hope.

Not quite in budget, but DAMN good value: https://www.canyon.com/en-be/factory-outlet/#category=mtb-bikes&sort=price&order=1&id=20880

Meanwhile my Dune is on the way back from the welder (to fix my chain-stay) and has been painted in the mean-time (price for strip of frame and forks, shot-blast, repair and powder-coat: £90 including VAT.

The colour is emerald green, i will show you when it arrives.

Bits to put on: suntour 11-46 cassette, slx shifter and mech. hyro breaks. can't wait to get it back on the road. board with my old 26er.

Looking forward to seeing it reborn

hey guys,bought my fatty dune last week after retiring from xc type mtb-ing last summer, but Ive always been fat curious.ive swapped out the cable brakes for a pair of shimanos,fitted renthal bars and saint pedals (all out of the spares box) Im about to convert it to 1x10 using a mix of zee/xt and slx ht cranks.id be obliged if someone can tell me which bottom bracket to use,i believe saint bb's are an option but not sure which one.i`ve read through most of this really long thread,honest,but just hoping someone will help out.

tia guys.

ah,just realised slx cranks are no good on a 100mm bb shell 😳
the spares bin isn`t coming up trumps after all.

If it's a ht 2 job, then it's standard stuff, the only difference is the plastic spacer between the bearings and there are a few diy solutions using a film container and some glue

lowcogger - Member

ah,just realised slx cranks are no good on a 100mm bb shell

Well that depends- can you weld?

Aeffect is a good option for a fatbike. Reasonably priced, reasonably light, uses raceface's nice cinch single rings, and fits in a standard ht2 bb.

So after a couple of weeks on my new (to me )Fatty Trail full ridged riding around the chase, I have to say I love it ride with a mate who has a new one and to be honest I we have never grinned so much while riding or after. Surprised to read these comments on here with you chase guys as we never seem to see anyone else riding fat ones used to see loads when I was riding my full suss haha

I'm there 2-3 times/week but I haven't used the fatty much this year. I inadvertently got the HT completely dialled last year and I have to say it's much better than my fat bike in the winter mush. Still the see the occasional fatbike I believe there's a gathering on Wednesday nights but plus bikes and ebikes seem to have really taken off

It's now my only MTB - as other Fatsters will attest, once you've ridden fat for a while and then try riding a 'normal' bike it just feels plain wrong!
I just love the grip levels available

Once you go fat you'll never go back 😀

Once you go fat you'll never go back

This is what I'm finding - don't miss my now sold Chief and Zero one bit, which says a lot. I'm fattyriders mate and live on the Chase too.
We are already planning a trip to Degla this Spring on the fattys - can't wait!

Someone asked about pressures on a Bluto equipped fatty? well, running JJ's tubed (for now) and Sunday dropped it to 8 front 9 rear and it felt really good, so will probably stick at that for now and go a bit lower once tubeless. 14 stone+ something rider.

rickmeister : they`re slx ht2 that have come off the son in laws santa cruz but I was under the impression that the spindle will be too short?

northwind : nope on the welding,only tried it once many years ago and it looked like pidgeon shit when Id done. can I use any 100mm race face cranks? spotted a couple of sets on ebay as Im trying to cheap the expense down.

The axel on SLX cranks will be too short - Shimano don't make any fat bike cranks. The bb however will fit without the 'protective' internal sleave.

100mm race face cranks will fit but you'll need the specific one for your rear hub width IE 170/77 or 190/97mm as they come with different Qwidths which effect the chain alignment on your cassette.

rickmeister was mixing up the BB and the cranks I think.

The raceface crank sizing is kinda weird. Like, I got 100mm Aeffects but there's a 177mm rear and a 197mm rear version. DUne obviously has a 197 rear but the 177mm version fits beautifully and the 197mm was way wider than it had to be. So you need to figure out what's going to work.