[Closed] Would you buy a (new) fatbike for ~£1k?

As you say, 150mm on the Dune, for Bluto compatibility and fatter tyres, so the wheel won't fit any of the on one forks. There's still not many cheap 150mm carbon options, as far as I could tell- it's the newer standard and more commonly found on higher end bikes i suppose so it's a different target market, if you're making a cheap fat fork you probably target the biggest pool of old bikes, that're more likely to want low price upgrades

@Kayak23 I forgot about the front hub size, so that's another obstacle! 😆

So to use the OO carbon fork, you need...
A new headset for the Dune, so it installs a straight streerer
A front hub that is 135mm, QR and RDS such as http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-pro-2-evo-fatsno-front-hub-qr/rp-prod136921

Or simply fit a Bluto to the Dune, allowing you to use the Dune's default front wheel and headset.

By the time you've bought a new headset and front wheel for the Dune to fit the OO carbon fork, you should save ~£200 over a Bluto... Unless you come across a bargain like those ones that were at Amazon a while back, or buy second-hand.

So...i finally got my bike set up and had a go on it! Here are my obervations:

- it's much nicer, and better quality, than i was expecting. I find it pretty amazing for the price. The frame in particular is fantastic, and i like the colour much more than i expected. The gears are better than i expected, the cogs, the cranks etc. FSA headset. All not bad really. Like Northwind has said many times on this thread, it really is totally useable straight out of the box with no upgrades at all. I didn't even think the brakes were too bad. Perfectly useable (and i generally hate mechanical disc brakes (i have BB7s on my kona unit - can't stand them because i cannot set them up without huge amounts of play))

- the pedals are awful though, as I expected.

- it is a very reasonable weight, and surprises most people when they lift it up. With all the heavy parts supplied with the bike it is still well below 14kg.

- For my size (6" with shorter than average legs for my height) with the large frame, the seat post is too short, (i need it about 1 inch above the minimum mark to be comfortable) the handlebars are too short and I think the stem could do with another inch as it is a bit cramped for me. All easily sortable though. I don't think i will worry about the seatpost - i'll just run it a bit outside it's recommended setting as there is still a fair mount left. I have a longer bar on my wife's mtb....

- The ride was fantastic. My first time, and it really is a totally different thing altogether! It is not a mtb with downsides, which is sort of what I expected, it is another beast which serves a different function. Fine on the hills, although a little draggy, but still pretty spritely, and nothing to worry about. Fantastic once it gets going, really unstoppable and easy to keep at speed. The best thing was just the fact i could really go off-road like i never have before. I just went everywhere with a big smile on my face, through the forest, across the fields etc. Brilliant!! i have been commuting through the same forest for years and whenever i try to go through the forest floor i get bogged down, but now it's like everywhere is a path. I'll be moving to the countryside in France two years and I think this will be simply great for heading off into the middle of nowhere.

- riding the bike, I was happy with the gears. I quite like the 2x8 set up and was surprised at the smoothness of the rear derailleur. The front got caught up a few time changing up, but I think I can sort that our easily with the top adjusting screw. The brakes were good too, able to lock up the back wheel. I'll be changing them for hydraulic, but I wouldn't worry too much if I didn't have that option.

- there was some self-steer which didn't bother me, but I will need to work out what pressure to have the tyres. I don't have a decent gauge, so I will have to do it by eye/feel. Any tips for that would be welcome. How much side wall deformation do you have when you have when sitting on the bike your tyres at the right pressure?

- anyway, I'm really very happy with it. The cheapest bike I have bought in many years, and so much better than I expected. It's the price of a supermarket bike almost, but really well put together in my view.

Here's a phont of my commute today!

[url= https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5485/29519571763_89c40f9ee4_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5485/29519571763_89c40f9ee4_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/LYxweR ]IMAG1682[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/earwigs/ ]Babble[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8418/30113384086_7e94e79732_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8418/30113384086_7e94e79732_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/MT1XXm ]IMAG1675[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/earwigs/ ]Babble[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5537/30113383876_8da802ec4c_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5537/30113383876_8da802ec4c_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/MT1XTJ ]IMAG1677[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/earwigs/ ]Babble[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5579/29519571833_5c7943c1e8_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5579/29519571833_5c7943c1e8_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/LYxwg4 ]IMAG1681[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/earwigs/ ]Babble[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5206/30148345125_84060328f1_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5206/30148345125_84060328f1_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/MW79DT ]IMAG1678[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/earwigs/ ]Babble[/url], on Flickr

Looks fantastic. I thought the large bikes were green though?

I will need to work out what pressure to have the tyres. I don't have a decent gauge, so I will have to do it by eye/feel. Any tips for that would be welcome.

I'd recommend getting a gauge when you can. Helps to be consistent.

http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/tyre-pressure-gauge-for-fat-bike

The guide I was recommended was to use 1psi for every 10kg I am kitted up. It worked as a good base point for me.

There's still not many cheap 150mm carbon options, as far as I could tell

There's [url= https://www.amazon.co.uk/ICAN-Carbon-Rigid-Fatbike-150mm/dp/B00WNUK4II ]this one on Amazon,[/url]
but quality-wise is anyone's guess.

no, they are all the same colour - glow in the dark yellow.

Ican are a pretty respected brand. TBH it's definitely something I'd consider- the Dune's forks are pretty light but they're harsh. But I don't want to ruin the colourscheme Wonder what axle you use with those Icans?

@Rover, the green is the not-yet-will-it-ever-be-launched upgraded Dune. Or maybe just a random green frame they had that they used to mule the parts for the same. Or maybe even just a random green frame owned by one of Calibre's designers or something. I don't think we really know. It's not lumi yellow though so it can **** off.

Some may be ecstatic to learn that the Jobsworth pannier racks (that fit fatbikes) are back in stock at DFS, except they are no longer £13, now £30 before TCB.

Or perhaps not! 😆

I've had a bike of some sort all my life, for ~40 years, but never done the panniers thing ever. Contemplating it now, having seen the much cheaper light at Aldi/Lidl, compared to our much closer to home Sainsburys.

Looking good Babble

@Rover, the green is the not-yet-will-it-ever-be-launched upgraded Dune.

Ah yes, I forgot about all the upgrades. Just remembered the colour!

Hypothetical question here , If you could change the colour of your dune what colour would you like it.? The reason I ask is Im thinking of respraying mine next month as the neon lemon is fairly hideous In my opinion. Im thinking either Kawasaki green , A shiny purple or powder blue like the trek farley.

hahaha what a laugh i just had coming home!! different route, some longer lumpy downhills - just fantastic fun! 😀 It eats cobbles like nothing else (and there are a lot of those in Belgium. love it. can't stop grinning.

i love the colour, but if i were to respray i would go for matt burnt orange i think.

in other news - i have 180mm front rotors, which i was not expecting.

(i'm still smiling - that thing really rolls!)

So then,most people seem to be quite pleased with their dunes,i am about to pull the trigger on one but as I am monumentally tight when it comes to parting with money I want to be 100%!
Does anyone regret buying one?I would be using it mainly around Cannock chase through the winter while I replace all the worn out bits on my anthem which I will then use through the dryer months next year.Does that seem like a good plan?

I took mine to cannock a couple of weeks ago and had a great time, it felt slower in places but an easy lap of follow the dog was only a couple of mins slower than my average on an Anthem and much more fun, in fact I've not ridden my anthem since getting the dune.

Definitely no regrets here 🙂

All this budget fatbike talk is nonsense. What people need is a brand new ICT XL for around £1500. If only there were someone selling one.........

firestarter sold his after not-too-long, so you might ask him about it?

Mm93 as long as you factor in the quality of some components.
Can you afford/will you want to fix or change things while you rebuild your Athem

frame: great
gears: fine
brakes: poor
other bits: fine
price: great

Going downhill: great
going uphill: fine
going off road: great
looking like a berk on a florescent fatbike: brilliant

Is there any way the top cash back deal can be used when buying in-store ?
I get a 15% discount for being a Scout Leader, but have to buy in-store. 😕

no, and topcashback doesn't actually work anyway. Go Outdoors don't seem interested in giving them the money.

mm93 - I've made my Dune my only MTB since purchasing it. I love its geometry and impossible levels of grip - I have spent several hundred upgrading it but it still turns out a cheap easily maintainable bike.

I don't think you can go wrong, it's a small outlay for such a fun bike, and if you find it languishing in your garage for whatever reason you can just knock it out cheap to another buyer who will snap it up.

Main negative I can think of is draggy tyres on hard surfaces (roads/hardpack). I just avoid roads if possible, or ride a bit slower and take in the sights.

It climbs, corners (takes a bit more leverage to turn) and descends way better than you'd expect. It's worth noting how comfortable it is, and it's a demon for pulling wheelies.

I bought a Calibre Dune a week ago to go with my Charge Grater 0 and Mondraker Foxy. I fancied something different and simple and the Dune is that.
Quality seems good, I'm happy with it.

Seems to be a good comfortable ride. No issues going up or down hills aside from the awful cable brakes which scared the c$%p out of me! I changed those sharpish with cheap Clarks M2 hydraulics.

Just make sure you give the bike a once over before riding it, the GoOutdoors 'mechanics' missed the fact the headset was completely loose, the brakes weren't adjusted correctly and the tyres were inflated to 25psi. Not safe to ride out of the store.

and the tyres were inflated to 25psi. Not safe to ride out of the store.

The Juggernaut Pro tyres are rated up to 30PSI aren't they?

I ride my Jumbo Jims at ~27/30PSI on the road for less rolling resistence.

Mm93 I did indeed sell my dune. For pittance too really 🙁 but I know have a plus bike that I find more usable tbh.

The dune was a great bike once I swapped tyres and brakes but I found it more of a fun bike than an everyday bike and I needed an everyday bike

The plus isn't as good as fat sometimes and sometimes it's better, for me anyway

I do regret selling somewhat as I only got 285 with spare tyres and deore brakes but I much prefer the plus bike overall and I just didn't have the space to store more bikes.

Thanks for the replies,i think I'm gonna go for it.

On the plus side the bright yellow is very vr46 😉

Firestarter, which plus bike did you get? And can you summarise the trade offs between fat and plus?

Similar to mm93 I have been considering the Dune, but am not sure if full or semi fat suits my needs best.

I currently have a 26" 100mm xc hardtail, that I am considering replacing. The Dune and Charge Cooker midi 1 are on my list. Both are rigid ALU frames and forks and tapered steerer.

Dune has full fat with less than ideal brakes and gears but more modern geometry and wider hub spacing.

Cooker has 2.8 plus tyres with standard hub spacing but better gears and brakes.

I know that the weaknesses on the Dune can be upgraded, whereas the Cooker is better specced but the hub width can't be changed. I am not sure which would be the best all rounder, if any?

Those that have experience with either or both, which would you go for, and why?

Well you can fit 27.5+ or 29+ wheels on the dune if you so desired. Enough said. Buy one.

Well you can fit 27.5+ or 29+ wheels on the dune if you so desired. Enough said. Buy one.

That's true. I am giving it some serious consideration.

check these out! a whole host of 29+ fatbike conversions:

http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/lets-see-your-fatbike-29-plus-conversions-955584.html

Cheers babble, some of those look pretty nice.

I'm not sure I would suit 29+ as I am a short arse at 5'5", and have never ridden a 29er MTB. I've only ridden BMX, 26ers and road/gravel/hybrid bikes which granted are the same wheel size, but with much smaller tyres.

I'll give it some thought though.

you could put 27,5+ wheels/tyres on the dune. the point is the dune is adaptable/upgradable. fatter 4,8 tyres, 29+ or 27,5+ if you want. good frame, good spacing, through axels, cheap as chips. what's not to like? (well, my wife hates the colour...)

this is quite useful if you haven't got your tyre pressure gauge yet:

It would appear my cashback was not approved as i did click and collect and therefore paid instore
Still arguing over it

Does the Dune have a 31.6 seatpost? I may be able to use my spare Reverb as a reason to buy one...

Yes

Holyzeus - Member
It would appear my cashback was not approved as i did click and collect and therefore paid instore
Still arguing over it

I've never been in your situation, but my understanding is TCB works on the basis of getting you to part with cash online after being "recommended" by TCB.

Now if you had been a scout leader, you would be better off paying in-store rather then using TCB, because in-store I've read you get 10% off.

I do sympathise with you though, that ~£40 TCB would help buy some hydraulic brakes (with TCB from elsewhere) and/or a nice tyre upgrade. Good luck in your quest!

Well I couldn't resist,picked up a large this afternoon and put it together myself,i was impressed by the niceness of the frame and paint finish.Only had a ride around the estate on it so far ,gears work well,brakes ok,theyll do for now,steering feels weird.I put 8psi in both tyres,will take it over the chase tomorrow.Thanks for the advice.
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I found on tarmac the inertia of that huge wheel/tyre is magnified hugely

Nobody- just annoyed that it isn't made clear that you can't click and collect, i'd have purchased differently.

1x10d my Dune recently and it's still as good with the most smiles per £ out of any of my bikes, the comfort of a softail, the capability to roll over/up anything and the confidence inducing grip/stability means out of choice it's my go to bike.

Drove all the way from the Midlands to deepest Kent today to pick up my bargain dune. Tested it in Surrey on the way back.

[img] [/img]

Haha. That's a great picture. I'm heading out tomorrow to find a bigger tree....

Holyzeus - Member

I found on tarmac the inertia of that huge wheel/tyre is magnified hugely

How I feel it, is that up to a certain speed, fatbikes aren't really that much effort. But it ramps up as the speed goes up. My made up science explanation is that it's hysteresis at work- tyre lag basically, once you get up to a certain speed you're pushing constantly against the tyre's deformation, essentially outrunning your own bow wave.

How many of you have had the [i]'Cor!, where'd you get them tyres mate?'[/i] questioning?? 😀

^^^ Constantly.
It'll be a shame when everyone has fatbikes and this stops.

Thank you.

Did about 22 miles on mine today which is a big ride by my standards,mainly off piste at Cannock.Loved it,the steering still feels strange when on hard,smooth surfaces,but I intend to stay away from them as much as possible ,and will use it for more natural stuff.I love the way it rolls over the big stones and roots and the grip on loose surfaces is great.No problems with it at all,very pleased with it.One thing I would say though,i am 5'10 and got the large and I still ended up with the seat post at max so be aware ,I was going to get the medium originally which would have been way too small I feel.
[URL= http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg199/lexinoo/Mountain%20bikes/IMG_20161009_103936.jp g" target="_blank">http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg199/lexinoo/Mountain%20bikes/IMG_20161009_103936.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
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good stuff mm! congrats on the new bike.

mm93 - Member

One thing I would say though,i am 5'10 and got the large and I still ended up with the seat post at max so be aware ,I was going to get the medium originally which would have been way too small I feel.

The stock seatpost's fairly wee- I'm 5'10 and using a 400mm post and it works perfectly.

Having purposely avoided this thread since it start, I really shouldn't have decided to finally read it last Friday, the day before my birthday..................... It arrives tomorrow ! !

haha. this thread must be personally responsible for the majority of october's Dune sales!

How many of you have had the 'Cor!, where'd you get them tyres mate?' questioning??

I had something similar in Glossop with my plus sized tyres - "Big tyres mate. Do you ride on mountains?"

Have any of you done the ghetto tubeless split tube thing with the juggernaut tyres?if so is it
A-easy?
B-worth it?
Oh, and what tubes did you use,20" or 24"?

So i've been lucky enough to nab a used Lou for the rear, looks in ok nick still
Whats the opinion for the front 4.8/5.0 but not silly money, a FBF?

How many of you have had the 'Cor!, where'd you get them tyres mate?' questioning??

"If we had tyres like that we'd be OK"
"I need some of those"
"You got an engine in that?"
"It looks like it should be slow but it obviously isn't!"
"**** me I must be really unfit"
"Let this bloke come past he's got more grip than we have"
"There must be a battery in it somewhere"
"Richard! RIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIICHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARD! LOOK BEHIND YOU!"

etc

"Here y'aremate, how did you get your tyres so big" said the local youth.

"I just pumped them up and kept pumping", I replied.

I hope he doesn't try it on his BMX.

I'm keen to convert to tubeless now, but I can't be arsed to read back through the thread to find out what the best solution was.

I think I was initially put off by the suggestion of shoving foam strips inside the rim to help the tyre bead seat (I think).

That, and what does one do if a flat causes tyre to come off rim out on the trail - and you don't have enough PSI to hand to reseat it.

Still, I hate tubes. Want them gone.

I went with [url= http://fattystripper.com/ ]Fatty Strippers[/url] as it actually saves weight.

That, and what does one do if a flat causes tyre to come off rim out on the trail - and you don't have enough PSI to hand to reseat it.

Sigh - they weigh so bloody much though. I swear it weighs me down like an anchor in my camelback.

Did you import the FattyStripper kit from the US? How did that work out price wise?
I have a couple of tubeless valves laying around and am tempted to go a bit Heath on sourcing rim tape a la Northwind. Would be good to source some of those 26" foam rings though.

Just carry a normal sized tube.

Is that wise as a temporary fix then?

Did you import the FattyStripper kit from the US? How did that work out price wise?

I have a couple of tubeless valves laying around and am tempted to go a bit Heath on sourcing rim tape a la Northwind. Would be good to source some of those 26" foam rings though.

I drilled my rims and cut schrader valves out of old motorcycle inner tubes for mine.

So let me get this right:

1) stick tubeless valve in rim
2) cover rim holes with a length of something sticky and colourful - 3m/gaffer tape style
3) place backer rods either side of inner rim faces(approx 1cm from rim edge)and carefully cover/stick in place with more gaffer tape
4) fit tyre within the 'wall' of rim and backer rod and inflate to seat tyre
5) bung in about a pint of stan's fulid
6) stand back and marvel at your accomplishment. aren't you a clever boy?

i'm interested in this tubeless conversion too, indeed having spent a week with my new fatbike I can safely say i am utterly smitten and have developed a much stronger than anticipated desire to do some upgrades....

The question is, would I have been better off having just bought a more expensive fat bike in the first place! Some maths:

Dune fatty (delivered to Belgium): €550 (thanks Brexit)
Deore hydro Brakes: €90
Scram NX crank: €99 ( https://www.bike24.com/p2129224.html)
Full 1x11 NX kit: €139 ( https://www.bike-components.de/de/SRAM/NX-1x11-fach-Upgrade-Kit-p48765/)

Total: €878

Not too bad I think, for what i will end up with. The only other consideration is that you might need a new seatpost if you are over 5"10 even on the large. (I also needed a slightly longer stem to get the reach right - 90mm - feels great now.) As Northwind has said a few times, if you want a Bluto, the best value fatbike out there is probably the On-one, but otherwise i think this is a pretty good deal, and an excellent frame.

so, my question: would that 1X11 sram cassette fit directly on as a replacement? (i'm fairly sure the answer to that is, yes) Secondly, would that NX 100MM fatbike crank fit, and/or would i need to do some spacing work?? It's says: Bolt Circle (mm): 94mm, 4-arm

Thanks everyone!!

Stay fat.

hmmm, from Northwind's pervious post on the matter in need to look for a 100/170 setup (whatever that refers to? The 100 is the BBwidth and the 170 the total distance between the pedals?) - i think i'll have to get in touch with the online bike folk and ask, because it's not clear to me from the spec on the site...

this is supposed to explain it, ( http://www.fat-bike.de/fatbike-cranks-part-1-en/) but now i am even more confused.

any advice on what i am supposed to actually ask for for the Dune would be much appreciated!

actually, the answer is somewhere on page 44 of this document!

the trouble is, i'm not sure what the question is! (reminds me of hitch-hikers guide to the galaxy)

The 170 refers to rear hub spacing. The Dune runs a 197 rear hub but actually works better with cranks designed for 170 hubs. Main benefit being a narrower Q factor (better for your knees).

Thanks, but i can't seem to find the hub spacing that this Sram NX fatbike crank is designed for. What i think i need to do is look at the crank CL (i.e. the distance form the center of the BB to the crank) of the crankset you and Northwind have used, and compare it to this one. It has a CL of 66.8mm apparently...

so i think i found the race face affect crank specs, and the 170mm one seems to have about the same CL and q-factor as the Sram NX i linked to! I think it would work. (bottom of page one here:

I think you have the XCF100 (167.25)..?)

Race face Aeffect – Cinch, XCF100 (167.25)
CL: 67-68 or 73.5-74.5 (with Flipped Ring)
Q-factor: 205

Sram NX GX-1000/X1-1000 - Fat bike
CL: 66.5 (Bottom Bracket Type(s): GXP® : BB30™ : PF30™ : PFGXP™)
Q factor: 203

May i ask, without meaning to be rude, if you flipped your ring?

Yes I flipped my ring. Chainline is all good, don't fret about a mm or two. Chain rings are also being produced with offset these days to cater for fatso's

thanks slimjim. Would it have worked without flipping your ring, or was that essential? I suppose at some point I should just do this the old fashioned way and go and have a look! (and measure it with a ruler)

The question is, if I go for the NX crank, which is nice and cheap, but has a non flippable ring and a chainline of 66.5, will that we wide enough? (perhaps is it for 4" tyres, but not for 5"...)

it's true that replacement offset rings are avaliable, but they are about half the price of the whole NX crankset, so I would rather avoid having to change later.

Truth is I spent hours devouringe the chainline info myself and it was nigh on impossible to settle on a definitive answer - in the end I followed advice that 'near as damn it' will work.

IIRC - the flipped ring on my set up put me close to 'optimal' chainline, so I fitted it that way, and it works. I havent gone wider than 4" tyre so cant guarantee it'll clear a 5" on largest sprocket, having said that im pretty sure NW has run 5" on his and we share the same set-up.

You may need to buy an aftermarket ring, you may not. I too wanted the cheapest set up, I even penny pinched a 1x10 set up when I couldv gone 1x11 for just a few £ more, but in the end I splashed the cash on the Aeffects as 1) they look great 2) they fit great 3) the Dune deserves pampering

Much the same here, fatbike chainline and q factor are really pretty confusing, I got it wrong the first time. Even within Raceface's range alone there's loads of variation, you'd think all the 197 rear cranks'd be the same but no.

I think I'd say 2 things. First is that teh stock cranks are actually fine- they're heavy and you can't fit a little chainring easily, but they work. I had to replace mine because I wrecked the taper but that was my fault. So you could stick a 30T on it for now like the NX has. The bearings aren't great but it'll let you get into it without buying cranks immediately.

The other is- aeffect are really good, and great value. They're a wee bit more expensive than the NX but they're much lighter, and they take a Shimano-style BB. Whereas with NX you're stuck with SRAM-compatibles. SRAM BBs are terrible, most quality alterantives are expensive.

So basically I would go direct to Aeffect with the ring of your choice if you can. And if you can't, then stick a cheap ring on the standard cranks and use those til you can. You're going to spend almost as much to get a real entry level unit with some big drawbacks.

(flipped ring on 10-speed shifting and a 4.8 rear, works a charm for me with the 170 Aeffect. The chain clearance to the tyre is a little tighter than is maybe ideal but it's more than good enough, and the chainline is close enough (I reckon biasing the chainline to the left isn't a bad idea on a fatbike, I spend way more time in the low gearst than the high!)

great advice guys, thanks! I'm going to do exactly as Northwind suggests.

apart from the bit where he lambasts coloured chain rings..

Green N/W 30T FTW!

haha. yes, apart from that bit of terrible advice.

so, i'm thinking about this:

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/SLX-1x11-speed-Upgrade-Kit-2017-Model-p50818/

€159 for an SLX 1x11 11-42 conversion kit with cassette, rear mech, chain, cables and gear-chainging thing. (vs €139 for the equivalent NX kit)

Both fit to a standard shimano freehub apparently.

Then in can pick up a 30 tooth 104 to use with my Lasco for about €15.

good plan?

A set of Aeffect cranks has just landed on my desk, very nice looking they are too. Just waiting for the Absolute Black 28T oval direct mount (black) chainring to arrive and that's that bit of the build sorted.