Working on bike wit...
 

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[Closed] Working on bike with a dropper post

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I now run a dropper post all the time. I've just swapped by brakes from Avid to Shimano Deore and found myself reduced to propping the bike against the bench or inverting it on the handlebars and seat to work on it rather than using my workstand as I don't want to clamp the Reverb.

What do other people do?


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 2:42 pm
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Clamp the top tube?


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 2:47 pm
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I just clamp the collar but let the stand rotate and settle before locking the rotation in place. Hopefully this prevents any twisting etc but you do and up with the front of the bike a bit low.


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 2:47 pm
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Rag round reverb and clamp it. Don't be shy.


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 2:47 pm
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I've clamped my Gravity Dropper loads of times. Never been a problem.


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 2:48 pm
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Ms AD has a Heckler with a dropper - virtually no place that I can clamp it in my current workstand.


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 2:48 pm
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If it doesn't require lots of wrenching (bad option for pedal/bb changes) just hang the nose of the saddle over the horizontal bar on the stand, near the clamp? Bike is suspended and no clamping required. Simple?


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 2:51 pm
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[quote=andypandy85 ]Clamp the top tube?
That.

Just don't be a klutz when tightening it. The clamp only has to be tight enough to hold the bike in place - and most jobs can actually be done with the clamp barely done up at all.

Another option is to use an old seatpost of the same diameter and pop it in whenever you need to.


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 2:51 pm
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Raise the dropper enough to get the clamp around the main body is the RS approved method


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 2:51 pm
 chip
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I drop the post to free up enough cable/hose then undo seat post clamp and raise the entire post enough to clamp the solid ( non moving ) section of the post in the workstand.


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 2:56 pm
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Raise the dropper enough to get the clamp around the main body is the RS approved method

This. Although beware of the hose - it tends to get tangled and always seems to want to get crushed in the clamp. I've never done it but it seems a very real danger.


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 3:01 pm
 JoeG
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I use on of these on mine.

[img] [/img]

[url= http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/products/carriers-and-racks/bike-carriers/bike-carrier-accessories/thule-frame-adapter-982xt-_-982xt999 ]http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/products/carriers-and-racks/bike-carriers/bike-carrier-accessories/thule-frame-adapter-982xt-_-982xt999[/url]


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 6:15 pm
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Another for clamping the dropper (if you're short on hose, with a Reverb, drop the seat first)


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 6:16 pm
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Just stick an old seat post in? You can then attach the reverb to the stand or the frame with some laggy bands if it is cable routed on your bike.

A bit of a faff, but not the worst thing in the world.


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 6:19 pm
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What about a stealth post, is it easy enough to raise it or is there not enough slack in the hose?


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 7:37 pm
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Just clamp the Reverb as you would a normal post. The post can take it! Your workstand jaws are hardly going to clamp it tighter than the frame clamp bolt?!


 
Posted : 05/01/2014 7:48 pm
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Workshop practice would be to stick a old seatpost in and clamp that.


 
Posted : 06/01/2014 7:55 pm
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Thanks all. I'm too ham fisted to clamp anywhere near the hose so will go for the old post next time.


 
Posted : 06/01/2014 8:30 pm
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Use the top tube. You don't need to clamp that hard. If you're really worried about damaging the tubing then put some pipe lagging on the TT and clamp that.


 
Posted : 06/01/2014 8:45 pm
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Have to say I go for the top tube option too - just rest it on there and for all bar the most enthusiastic wrenching it works fine.


 
Posted : 06/01/2014 8:49 pm
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Drop the seat, undo the seatclamp, pull out enough Reverb to clamp it, do up seatclamp, make sure hose isn't pinched, clamp in stand.


 
Posted : 06/01/2014 8:55 pm
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I also clamp using the top-tube, it's only ever nipped up, no need to clamp real tight. Just ensure the reverb hose isn't in the clamp jaws, but that goes without saying.


 
Posted : 06/01/2014 9:02 pm
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Top tube, seat tube (on some frames), hang it from the seat nose, or just clamp the post. Use a bit of imagination and logic.

Are reverbs really that delicate?


 
Posted : 06/01/2014 9:46 pm
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Clamp on top tube, makes bike higher which (I find) is better


 
Posted : 07/01/2014 7:07 am
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I regularily clamp my bike from it's extended reverb and after a year it's still working perfectly so they seem fairly robust.


 
Posted : 07/01/2014 7:41 am
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I've switched to one of these after having the same issue with a dropper post and fat/funny shaped tubes;

[img] [/img]

only issue I've had is that the bar isn;t long enough with my slack angled bike to get the fork dropouts clamped in so I end up resting the fork brace on a bit of pipe lagging on the bar and strapping it on. Which is a slight pain but as effective.


 
Posted : 07/01/2014 7:46 am
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Top tube for me. Seems to work well enough.


 
Posted : 07/01/2014 7:47 am
 JCL
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Are reverbs really that delicate?

Not remotely as delicate as a top tube.


 
Posted : 07/01/2014 7:56 am
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Won't putting an old seat post in leave a reverb/saddle swinging around while you're working? How annoying!

Clamp the reverb, it's made of metal!


 
Posted : 07/01/2014 8:17 am

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