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Considering changing my Genesis Datum which I have mainly used as my winter road bike for the last 5 winters with fixed mudguards.
Looking for something that will take 32mm tyres + and have mudguard mounts, discs and threaded BB. Bike will be used for club cycling and winter miles, potentially some bike packing and light gravel.
Unsure about going 1x as most riding will be winter road club miles - will the jump between gears be to much on a 10-50 cassette with a 42 chainring . 2x probably a better option
Would ideally like something slightly lighter, more aggressive. Under 10kg a must.
Very tempted with a Fairlight Strael and Secan but not sure I could get a build down to sub 10kg.
Same for some of the Mason bikes.
Giant revolt is another option I’ve looked at but doesn’t excite me as much as the Fairlight / Mason.
Would ideally come in under 4k for a full bike with electronic shifting. Closer to 3.5k would be a bonus.
Any thoughts guys ? Any recommendations?
Reilly Spectre?
I use my Freeranger gravel bike for winter roads - and about half the spend and under 9kg.
It'll take mudguards (which I don't bother with as use a WinWin on the rear) and up to 700 x 50c tyres.
Gearing-wise the only issue is top end rather than gaps, but it'll take a 2x.
It’s a gravel bike but I’ve built mine up as a road bike. Frame is about 1150-1200g without fork I think - so not super light top end carbon road bike - but about the same as a Cannondale caad12 - so still respectable and a chunk lighter than a datum. Feels nice and light and stuff out on the road - I’m running 1550g hunt wheels and 30c contingp5000s on mine. Haven’t weighed it but feels pretty decent with Ultegra di2 on it. I’d guess it’s around 8.5kgs. The frame will obviously take wide gravel tyres so clearance for 32c with full mudguards is spacious. Loads of mounts in the frame for racks / bags etc.
It is pressfit but I’ve not a heard a peep out of mine so far. Just gone with Ultegra 24mm cranks with a standard cheap Shimano pressfit bb for now - but when that needs replacing I might pop in a screw together wheels manufacturing bb arrangement.
Below build is 2x12 Shimano 105 di2 for £2699
https://www.dolan-bikes.com/dolan-gxc-carbon-disc-gravel-bike-shimano-12s-105-r7170-di2/
My new Strael is 9.9kg in a size 61 - that's with Ultegra mechanical, PDW guards and includes pedals, cages and mounts.
Would ideally come in under 4k for a full bike with electronic shifting. Closer to 3.5k would be a bonus.
I bought a Cannondale Topstone with SRAM AXS Rival groupset for under £3k from Evans...
That Dolan looks like a Carbonda696/Freeranger clone, as does my Ridley Kanzo C which was half price at Chiggle at the start of their fire sale. You can definitely get a build under your target weight and budget.
As I understand it the Dolan is the same as the Carbonda 696 frame. I think the freeranger has a bsa screw in bb but other than that is essentially the same frame - but most of those builds are 1x and in a dodgy colour.
The Bombtrack hook might be the same frame too.
I reckon you could get the Dolan in under 8kg for that budget with some careful shopping. Even just buying the £2699 build and spending circa £800 on some carbon wheels that weigh 13300-1400g and then replacing the alloy seat post and handlebar with carbon would take a chunk off. Dolan let you make some tweeks in the build section - can get 1500g carbon wheels there but I think you could get lighter with Hunt or Silt probably.
Chiggle have some decent discounted carbon bars at the moment and I’m sure you could get a carbon post for decent money in one of the sales at the moment.
Strael 100% ticks your boxes. Awesome bike
I built up a kinesis RTD with mechanical ultegra that comes in under 9kg. Not sure about budget as I had quite a lot of the bits already.
I’ve got 30mm tyres on there that measure ~32. I had to mod the mudguards slightly but reckon the bigger frames would have no problem - I’m on the 51 cm frame.
Mason resolution, 32mm tyres, full length guards.
Not light, but who cares, you aren't racing are you, and going slow gives you more time to see how nice it looks.
I'm on 1x mechanical, I like it, but I am slow and club rides / chain gangs are not my thing. Probably upgrade to 1x wireless just to annoy people.
where are you and what are the hills like? I manage 1x on a 38T with an 11-28. Could go to 11-30 or maybe a 32. I don’t spin out on medium paced club rides in 38x11. A 38T is the smallest ring you can fit on a carbon SRAM red crank. Ever the weight weenie. Gaps will feel huge on a 50T cassette and you probably won’t need it. Go smaller on the front would be my advice.
titanium, dura ace hubs, mini-Vs and ass saver as it has no mounting points. But 7.8 kg 😎
Would ideally like something slightly lighter, more aggressive. Under 10kg a must.
Very tempted with a Fairlight Strael and Secan but not sure I could get a build down to sub 10kg.
Would suggest that either can be built light enough if you throw enough money at them...
That said, starting with an aluminium frame is likely to give you a 500g+ head start before a single component is bolted to it though...
Mason Definition, Condor Italia Disc, Kinesis RTD, all high end alloy frames that will give very little to steel in terms of ride feel but save 1lb+ of weight immediately, as well as costing a bit less than their steel counterparts too...
That said, if you want steel, I wouldn't let the small matter of 1/2 a kilo get in the way myself...
I dunno what is winter specific about road bikes but my Cube Attain gets used all year round. 32c tyres, bolt on mudguards, carbon and it's 8kg.
Aluminium is the last frame material I'd pick given how it gets corroded by salt.
Given that your last bike his still going strong after 5 years, you are clearly not a serial bike swapper.
With this in mind, I would highly recommend going for a Fairlight. It will hold its value and looks well and is something of a classic. The ride is amazing. It has full eyelets for full length mudguards. Fairlight’s support is brilliant. Their wide range of sizes means that you should find a pretty good fit for you rather than having to compromise.
Steel bikes aren’t the lightest, but this if for winter and the weight penalty of maybe 0.5kg as a % of combined bike and rider weight is really inconsequential. The ride quality will offset that and you will never notice it.
In particular it sounds like the Strael would suit you well. I had a Secan and it is a versatile bike, but since you want a specific winter road bike, the versatility is not necessary and the more road focused geometry of the Strael would work better and it will be slightly livelier and lighter. Having said that, if you are gravel-curious, the Secan would be great but you would probably want a totally different set of gears and whilst 1x works well on the gravel, it is less suited to the road. I have a 1x road bike, and it is great for solo rides where I dictate the pace, but not the best on group club runs where I never seem to be in the right gear for the prevailing speed.
In you position, I wouldn’t hesitate. The Mason is also a great bike but might challenge your budget more.
where are you and what are the hills like? I manage 1x on a 38T with an 11-28.
That is then key question for 1x. I ran 1x with a 45t front and an 11-27 rear. Gaps, what gaps, the cassette went up in 1 tooth increments for most of the time. 45/27 gave me a 44 inch gear which as a 20 year fixed gear rider on around 66 inches felt like cheating on the hills.
Pedalon have some good sale prices on Defy’s, they’d suit the brief perfectly - 32, endurance shape, guards capable and can be aggressive.
If I was spending 3.5 - 4k, I would buy a new summer bike, and downgrade my old one to winter use...
For a winter bike at that kind of money I'd be looking at carbon, and getting a Domane or a new Defy I reckon. I can't stand heavy bikes in summer or winter. Winter riding is rubbish enough, without riding a dull heavy bike.
Had a Kinesis 4S a couple of years back that was nice, but heavy, and corroded after a couple of winters.
I think I would actually buy this, and stick some carbon wheels on it... sorely tempted myself
For a winter bike at that kind of money I’d be looking at carbon, and getting a Domane or a new Defy I reckon
I’ve got a Domane as my only road bike, but I think it makes an excellent winter bike: has 32mm tyres with room to go wider, happy to take mudguards and the carbon frame isospeed system is at least as good as my old Roubaix.
I came in to some money and got a Laverack Jack, with dynamo lighting and PDW fenders. Many cheaper options are available but a perfect winter/audax set up.
From feedback from clubmates, 1x on road bikes can make it hard to find the right gear/cadence on club rides, especially in shitty winter weather.
In my experience the gaps on 1x are a pita on group rides. Not ride ruining, but certainly noticeable unless you’re happy with a limited range.
Personally I like plenty of low gears on my winter bike so I can cruise up hills without getting too hot in all my winter clothes.
Aluminium is the last frame material I’d pick given how it gets corroded by salt.
My Mason Definition is over eight years old and ridden in all weathers. Aluminium can be problematic for spoke nipples, but a frame should be just fine.
Oh, and a Definition would be a great choice for the OP. Love mine.
In my experience the gaps on 1x are a pita on group rides
thats because you’re doing it wrong. You need a much smaller front chainring. Then the gaps are SMALLER than on a normal 2x setup, but you are missing range. So 38T not 52T will give you much smaller increases for any choice of rear cassette. A tight 11 speed like 11-28 gives very close gears, with spacings about 36% closer than a 52. A large chainring and a very wide set of sprockets will give big gaps. You can’t have it all with 1x, but gaps need not be the issue if you forgo range
38x11 will keep up with a medium paced club ride (20-22 mph average). You might be coasting on some hills. And spinning is what you do in winter. It’s one up from classic fixed wheel winter riding.
My Mason Definition is over eight years old and ridden in all weathers.
My mate's alu bike went after a couple of winters. Like I say you might be fine, but you are relying on paint etc to stop it corroding, when you could be riding something that doesn't corrode to begin with.
I guess it depends how much you ride but I’ve had 3 alloy road bikes that I’ve commuted on in all weathers with no obvious corrosion anywhere. Old Giant OCR, Caad 9 and a Caad 12 disc. Surely with steel you have the same thing - relying on paint to stop corrosion?
My Mason Def2 has some corrosion around the mudguard mounts etc. from winter salts getting in the nooks and crannies and me not cleaning properly one year (also turned my hubs furry). Still rides brilliantly though.
My 61T Fairlight Strael comes in at 9.2kg without mudguards, so weight goal is easily achievable. I also have a Secan as well, which is obviously much better suited to gravel riding, and less rewarding on the road. Given y0ur requirements a Strael seems a good choice and gets fantastic reviews from everyone, although I'm sure others would be good as well.
For a winter bike at that kind of money I’d be looking at carbon, and getting a Domane or a new Defy I reckon. I can’t stand heavy bikes in summer or winter. Winter riding is rubbish enough, without riding a dull heavy bike
I'm sure it's just confirmation bias, but i owned a Defy Advanced Pro before the Strael I have now and the Fairlight feels a better place to be all day long. Admittedly I prioritise comfort over speed these days but the Strael is a wonderful bike.
My Defy didn't really suit mudguards either. Don't know if the newer ones have mounts? I managed to rub a hole in the seat stays using clip ons. Got PDW full metal fenders on my Strael and winter riding doesn't get much more clean or silent.
Surely with steel you have the same thing – relying on paint to stop corrosion?
If there's enough chromium in the CroMo it won't rust beyond cosmetic. Some types do, some don't.
You might well have an alu seatpost though which will eventually cause problems if you don't look after it. However with a carbon frame you can use a carbon post and it won't corrode be ause it's the same material. And carbon won't corrode with salt either.
To be fair, there aren’t many bike components you could use and abuse throughout successive winters without some sort of preventative maintenance. Every material has its pros and cons. A steel bike treated internally, seatpost greased and plenty of GT85 will last many years. Same for aluminium. Carbon sounds great but most carbon frames have some metal inserts which can also be vulnerable.
Hard to look past the Boardman ADV 8.9 for £840 less 8% British Cycling discount at Halfords, as a winter/gravel bike.
I've had a Secan now for a few years and absolutely love it. Currently set up with 32mm tyres on Parcours Strade wheels, mudguards, mechanical ultegra and not massively fancy finishing kit but still under 10kg. Have also got a pair of hunt gravel x wides with a wider cassette and 42mm WTB resolutes. Just had a look on the website and they've got a Secan full build with 2x GRX di2 for just under £4k
Went where
Corrosion under the paint all over the place. Pinarello told him to get lost because how dare he ride his bike in the winter.
This was a while ago. But aluminium is susceptible to corrosion from salty roads. Doesn't mean everyone's bike will be affected but I'm sure you understand probability and statistics.
I’m sure you understand probability and statistics.
I do, not sure about you though given your advice.
Doesn’t mean everyone’s bike will be affected but I’m sure you understand probability and statistics.
Yes, I understand that alu and steel will be just fine unless they weren't manufactured correctly.
My steel road bike did admittedly need a respray this year, at 27 years old.
My treat to myself last year was a Titanium Planet X Hurricane, lovely thing and enjoyable to ride. Would something like that fit your brief?
I’ve a Mason Bokeh that I use for gravel and winter road riding - single GRX.
its okay and suits the purpose, but if buying again I’d prob have gone for a carbon model.
However with a carbon frame you can use a carbon post and it won’t corrode be ause it’s the same material. And carbon won’t corrode with salt either.
Not worked in a bike shop have you!!!
The abuse a bike is subjected to is far more important than the materials it is made out of for surviving UK winters...
I have had to destroy a carbon post, removing it from a carbon frame, for a customer who rode their bike thousands of miles each year come rain or shine, with zero maintenance other than to the drivetrain as and when components were completely worn out. It was absolutely seized in there... Worse than almost any corroded alloy post I have seen inside any metal frame in the past.
The lacquer on the bare carbon frame was looking patchy at best too, and I can honestly say it looked more worn out than many painted alloy frames that I have seen subjected to similar use too...
Buy and ride what you like (I've ridden a carbon bike through winter before, I didn't kill it, nor have I steel, alloy or Titanium!)... Just look after it basically, and it'll serve you well!
OP, have you considered a Cervelo Caledonia? I love mine, built up a frameset with a GRX 810 1x groupset with 44t chainring, Hunt Carbon 50 wheels Summer / DT Swiss Dicut alu PR1600 wheels for Winter duties. Mines around 7.7kg with weightweenie 140g carbon post, 130g carbon saddle etc, its an ace bike.
34mm tyre clearance, integrated mudguard mounts. It does have the BBright BB sizing not threaded BB but I fit a Wheels Mfg screw together BB to mine and its been good.
Cervelo aren't the best VFM but plenty of big reductions on them at the moment, i.e. 2023 Caledonia Ultegra 12sp Di2 reduced by 33% from £5500 to £3700.
I was contemplating a Mason bokeh what’s the thinking behind having a carbon bike instead?
also the new definition is due out this month - interested to see what changed .
Interesting that you have to be under 10kg
My thoughts on winter riding is that the roads are greasy, full mud guards are essential, my riding kit is heavier/more bulky
So dont worry so much about the weight / speed. Take the benefit in the spring when going back to a nice light summer bike 🙂
Struggling with the same dilemma.
My road bike is 20 years old this year. I'd like something winter proof, but I don't want a "winter" and "summer" bike. Currently narrowed it down to
Equilibrium 725, there's nothing wrong with it, it's just not a Fairlight Strael.
Fairllight Strael, looks amazing, ticks every box, apart from the 44mm headtube looks off. And for a £1400 frameset "looking off" matters as it's way over budget.
Kinesis R2, objectively the best choice, but I just don't look at it and want to ride it.
Ribble CGR 725, less roadie, but the Endurance 725 lacks tire clearance.
Anything from a big brands would require HR to change C2W schemes and go with someone other than Halfords.
Interesting that you have to be under 10kg
My thoughts on winter riding is that the roads are greasy, full mud guards are essential, my riding kit is heavier/more bulky
So dont worry so much about the weight / speed. Take the benefit in the spring when going back to a nice light summer bike 🙂
Depends how you measure the weight.
10kg as it leaves the shop is a realistic figure for a durable road bike with disk brakes and big tire clearance.
It's probably not achievable ready for a (winter) ride with guards, puncture resistant tires, saddle bag, bottle cages, thick bar tape, frame pump, etc. At least not without £££ and/or comprimises.
Worse than almost any corroded alloy post I have seen inside any metal frame in the past.
I don't bother with cleaning seatposts much, and whilst I have had many alu posts sieze (in fact, I consider it inevitable without frequent cleaning) I haven't had a carbon post do this in a carbon frame. Tbh, given that they are made of plastic, this is more likely to be due to applying grease than anything else, causing the resin to swell.
Cheeky sideways comment: You could save a shed load of money and buy my Whyte Wessex from me?! Sub 9kg, perfect for winter riding, and summer, fully mudguarded with 32mm tyres. Fast and comfy and infinitely upgradeable. It's on the STW classifieds.
Some interesting thoughts. Thanks all . <br />leaning towards a Mason or Fairlight .
A giant Revolt makes a lot of sense but for some unknown reason does get me excited. same for the new Defy .<br /><br />I’ll keep looking
Ribble have a sale on. They seem popular in my club.
My Ritchey Logic is undet 10kg (about 9kg) and that's a nice steel frame with a full carbon fork. If I added full guards and bigger all season tyres I think it would be over 10kg. Not sure you'd get a modern steel framed, disc braked road bike c/w guards for under 10kg, not without spending big money.
over budget and maybe little heavy for your needs but Enigma Etape? I bought ultegra spec from Epic this year and intended to not use in winter, but ability to run wide TL and even be "light gravel" with disc brakes and full mudguards make it an excellent winter bike so I am running it through the winter. Its handling capabilities make it feel very comfortable and confident on the pretty crap conditions we have at the moment.
Ribble have a sale on
The blue Ribble alloy was THE go to winter road bike for years. Cheap, light, mudguards. Plenty about but my club seem to prefer light carbon and no mudguards, even in winter.
Apologies for slight hijack, but, @footflaps - how is the Topstone? I've just been looking at that very deal on Evans and it seems excellent. I'm looking for a new gravel bike.
The blue Ribble alloy was THE go to winter road bike for years.
Obviously no one told all these people they would rust! Thank god we now have stw forum advice!