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[img][url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/37161362955_7f53d6e745_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/37161362955_7f53d6e745_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/YBPGwp ]Bikes[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/paris-steve/ ]--ex Paris (now London) Steve--[/url], on Flickr[/img]
Now with Pike 140mm goodness and the short but matching stem.... still with the rear Whyte/WTB wheel with the supplied front tyre on the back... and still with the short hoses I need to think about changing t route internally at some point...
Almost new (a few rides at FOD but not really pedalling) Nano-X pedal failed already... after a max 2-3 miles of actual pedalling!!! Pulled it apart last night and the inside was dirty .. not really bad but the grease was going black... so not sure if the seal was fitted badly or the end cap wasn't fully fitted and let in water/mud ... but I pulled the axle it and cleaned it and put it back together.... I might strip it again before riding and take the seal and give it a proper clean and redo.
Thanks for advise on the wheels. For now i am going to stick with the heavy wheels and maybe look to upgrade a few bits for next summer to lighten the load. I will be taking a trip to Dalby Forest for the first time next weekend, i imagine it is going to be a wet one. What tyres would you suggest for Dalby and for use over the winter months please?
I don't know Dalby but it doesn't seem specifically sharp rocks ...
Rear tyres are if anything more contentious than front... in that its the compromise between fast rolling and grip ... and even how much grip .. some people like the back to slide more ...
That said I can say I'm actually pretty happy with the front Trail Boss 2.25 as supplied on the back... except it does feel a bit heavy... and the Hans Dampf on the front which is an OK general tyre... (not astounding at anything but pretty good at most)
This is a pretty cheap way to try ... you only need buy one tyre... and you can always switch back the rear tyre if it feels too draggy on long rides...
Most of that will be what you ride.... how fast you want to ride it etc.
Personally I'll ride a bit slower overall if it means more grip on places I'm likey to break something
(We just did 3 days uplift at FOD and ideally I'd have stuck a really big tyre on and put the Hans Dampf on the back ... that said I'd ordered some big (2.5) tyres for Jnr ... that didn't arrive in time and he ended up on his Rocket Rons which were OK) but we rode swinley yesterday and he wasn't even for trying the DH tyres 😀 (smart move I'd say)
For now i am going to stick with the heavy wheels and maybe look to upgrade a few bits for next summer to lighten the load.
I'd try and stick the money away so you can pounce on any deals....
My Superstar Rims/Hubs are way better than the supplied wheels... and I paid the same as a couple of tyres for them... (£100 New Year Sale)
[u]Retrospectively[/u] what I should have done was pay about the extra £40 or £50 they were doing on the Stans on the New Years deal... but hey we live and learn....but either way there often seems to be good deals on upper-mid-range wheels from various places and you just need to have decided what you are keeping an eye out for... I reckon with the current resurge of 29ers there could be a few stock adjustments and hence bargains on 27.5 ...
oakesy2001uk - interested to hear any more thoughts on the STX compared to the Monarch. Also, how do you find the climb switch? I think I read it locks out the HSC rather than LSC for some reason on the Ohlins which sounds counter intuitive to me!
Im really impressed with the stx, way better than the monarch in every way. Very composed without losing the playful feel.
Small adjustment range - all setting you can actually use, the middle is the reccomendation for weight and rising style ( anpretty much spot on).
I dont feel the need for a climb switch with it, its still nicely plush witha but of lsc dialled in.
I believe the climb switch controlls the hsc threshhold, but also moves the lsc. It feels plenty firm anyway. Not a lock out - like the ccdb but without the slow rebound I'd say.
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Had another great ride on mine at the weekend on the super steep trails at the Wrekin. Still such a fun bike and capable on pretty much any terrain.
Oakesy - I like the lockout/climb switch not to stop pedal bob, but to prop the back end up on steep climbs. Makes it more comfortable and keeps the front end down a bit. I guess I run the rear shock quite soft so you get a lot of sag from weight transfer when it goes up steep. The CCDB and Monarch both seem to prop up quite well, sounds like the Ohlins does similar?
Just back from a big weekend in the Lakes on the T130..
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Nan Bield on Friday in torrential rain and 40mph winds
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Helvellyn on Saturday (up Dollywagon and down Sticks) in thick cloud and high winds
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A bit more of a gentle one over Boredale Hause Pass on the Sunday morning.
Happy to report the T130 was brilliant throughout. For a short travel, capable climber it absolutely blasts down the rocky descents with massive confidence and was great fun everywhere!
Just a quick one Guys, while I was cleaning my T130 c-rs 2018 model I turned it upside down and noticed that the plastic cable guide that holds the brake and rear mech cable was causing some nasty cable rub.
I've only ridden it three times so its gone quite quickly. Took the guide off and cable tied it.
Worth checking.
pantsman - Member
ChapsThere seems to be a lot of you swapping the stock wheels.
MrsbeanZ RS came with sram roam 30s , changed them DT xm421 on pro4 hubs its the first upgrade shes actually noticed and comment on without prompting .
cogglepin - do you mean rubbing through the cable outers or the frame? Can't see any obvious wear on my frame as the cables are held quite far away from it.
Watching a large T130s on ebay with interest! Don't see many coming up for sale and do love the T130s!
jayx2a - MemberWatching a large T130s on ebay with interest! Don't see many coming up for sale and do love the T130s!
There's one or two on the Whyte Facebook group up for sale - the last I saw was stoke-on-trent.
I don't know the seller/no affiliation etc but if you want me to put you in touch just let me know.
Just a quick one Guys, while I was cleaning my T130 c-rs 2018 model I turned it upside down and noticed that the plastic cable guide that holds the brake and rear mech cable was causing some nasty cable rub.
I've only ridden it three times so its gone quite quickly. Took the guide off and cable tied it.
Worth checking.
Mine was rubbing through the outer pretty badly, so i taped it up with electrical tape.
Mintman - is it a public Facebook group? Will have a search!
It's a closed group "Whyte Bikes Owners" but the admin seemed quick enough to accept requests. The post that I was looking at was someone called Ken Beech from 1626 on Sunday. Good luck in your hunt for a bike!
Bacondoublechee, as Weeksey says it was my cables that were wearing through.
How are people finding the t130 with fox suspension? There is a nice looking bike on pinkbike but the MBR review on YouTube seemed pretty unimpressed with the fox over rockshox.
Hopes front and rear, newgrips, new pedals. All in KTM orange of course
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[url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/37096048970/ ]2017-09-27_03-14-57[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url] - [url= https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dariogf.flickr2BBcode_lite ]Flickr2BBcode LITE[/url]
How are people getting on with the WTB tyres?
Managed to put holes in the sidewall of my rear Trailboss in the Lakes this weekend - looking to change it anyway as not sure it'll be much good doing the winter months. Strange position to get a puncture as right next to the rim - bunged an anchovy in but not holding up too well, then found air coming out of other side of tyre (not directly opposite) - was descending on slate at time. What have you changed to if you're not running these tyres anymore?
Best get that front QR pointing back or up...
No problem with them.
I've got maxxis crossmark ii on my other wheels for summery xc speed.
Ok fellow T130ers...a few questions:
Have you swapped out your Whyte stem and if so what did you go for?
Mudguards (rear) - Mudhuggers seem to be the popular choice amongst bikers in general. Anyone fitted one to a T130? All good and worth it?
Fitting bottle to frame...can only get a small bottle in, then someone I ride with suggested getting a side entry cage/holder....anyone done this and can you run a full 750ml bottle ok?
Cheers.
PS Still absolutely loving the RS 🙂
1. Yes.... Generic Raceface one from CRC £25
2. No.
3. Yes. I run a 500ml in standard, my mate runs a 950ml in side mount fine.
Yep, running a 50mm Chromag Ranger stem because its nice and matches the bars.
Mudguards? MTFU. A front is acceptable, a rear is just wrong. Buy Waterproof clothing.
Running a side entry Syncros Carbon cage on my Large T130C RS and can easily run a 750ml Camelback bottle.
Interesting comment about the mudguard. I don't like them either but they do stop crap getting everywhere...back of top, all over Camelbak, all Reverb.
Can get a nice Thomson stem at a good price but no NEED to change it...it's just very nice and i think I can live with the fact it isn't the same brand as the RF Atlas bars 😉
Ohhhh no. No. And No. Bars and stem must be from the same brand! Heathen!!
Had my 2015 T130 for 3 year now and it's covered nearly 5000 miles.
It's had the bars, grips and stem changed and pikes extended to 140mm but other than that it still in standard form.
I run a mudhugger, front all year and a rear during the winter.Looks crap but keeps me dry.
Cracking bike.
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Quick update.... I found an almost unused ML3 tune and stuck it on... (took the aircan off to clean before I mounted and it was spotless inside) ... its no lockout but doesn't seem to suffer and small bump sensitivity is better.
I'm planning on perhaps trying a couple of volume reducers though I was doing some fairly big (for me) jumps yesterday (@UK Bike Skills) and didn't quite bottom out ...
I did however find my bearings need changing and the main pivot came loose. Got a weekend @FOD with uplift booked so I'll get that out of the way 1st...
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My 2018, So far change the wheels and tires for something a bit lighter and faster rolling.
Will put a bigger set on the original wheels once I make my mind up.
T130 RS 2017 here...and I'm on my third seat (moving on the rails) anyone else had same issue or do I need to go on a diet?
So any second owners changed the suspension bearings themselves?
I got a new set pretty cheap (as Swinley had spares) and have yet to pull things apart but struggling to find something to use as a bearing press to fit the KP5AX.
I did my bearings last night for the first time, i'm amazed they've lasted almost 2 years!
I just used a mix of appropriately sized sockets and a bolt through the middle to press the old bearings out, and sockets and a vice the press the new ones in. Same as any other frame really. I did pop the seals and fill the new bearings with xhp222 before fitting.
Cheers Bacon ....
I've never replaced linkage bearings before so its a bit of a unknown as to how easy/hard to get out... less worried about out as if you don't mind wrecking the bearings one way or another they come out 😀
I'd imagined using some washers/sockets as an improvised press and being able to get away without completely dismantling the rear triangle... ??
(The ML3 is very nice.... btw)
How are folks who have upgraded to 140mm forks finding the ride? I'm toying with the idea as I've always had bikes with mismatched travel and find I'm lacking confidence in the front end of the T130, thinking an extra 10mm of cush might be the way forward!
Must admit I like 130mm but i'm not great on technical down hills, I've got lots of muscle scaring from a back op and have a fear of going over the bars and knackering my back.
I tend to increase the compression on the technical downs to give the fork a bit more support, you might also gain 10mm back if you increased the fork pressure reducing sag a little.
I've got the new Revalation fork so I could replace the spring if required.
How are folks who have upgraded to 140mm forks finding the ride? I'm toying with the idea as I've always had bikes with mismatched travel and find I'm lacking confidence in the front end of the T130, thinking an extra 10mm of cush might be the way forward!
I'm loving it!
At £30 its something you can just try ... presuming you do your own lower leg services and don't have to buy oil specially... and have some good circlip pliers (mine were rubbish and getting the ciclip on/off was 90% of the time) and if its not suited then put the old shaft back.
May be of interest...
There's a guy on FB Whyte Owners Group selling a 2016 never-ridden large T130 carbon works.
Bought new at Edinburgh bike shop - injured hence not used.
He wants £2500 for it...was £4500. A mate of mine has that bike...it's bloody lovely.
A bargain beckons for someone.
It's a closed group but I can pass on details if you're not on there.
Been through a right service/warranty journey with my Monarch RT3 off the T130, but hopefully the end is in sight after 4 weeks without a bike and I'll have a shiny new Monarch Plus in ML tune in hands later today. How have folks who've changed to this shock been finding it? Presuming it's a bit more supple than the standard Monarch? I am bit concerned it'll affect climbing performance, has anyone noticed an increase in pedal bob when they changed over?
I run a Monarch Plus on mine, they also swapped my broken OEM RT3 for a Plus RC3 (SRAM said they aren't making the RT3 in 216x63 anymore hence all swaps will get a new Plus RC3).
You might find the ML tune a bit over damped on compression still, the T130 as standard uses an ML3 tune, i.e. medium rebound, low-3 compression tune (around 25% less compression damping compared to a low tune from what I can tell). I bought an ML3 tune assembly (main piston with the correct shim stack attached) for about £20 and swapped it out myself.
I really like the Monarch Plus overall though, very supple and the 3 position lever is great, not a complete lockout but very useable on off-road climbs. Middle position can give you a bit more platform on smoother trails too.
Awesome looking bikes
Hi,
If anyone is interested I have a one ride old T130S for sale.
Size Large.
Intended to use it this year and unfortunately circumstances have changed and need to raise some money.
RRP is 2750 but looking for 2200 or nearest offer.
It is a 2018 model,GX Eagle,Revelations etc.
Will be fully serviced before sale.
I work in the trade so have a fully equipped workshop.
Photos available on email below:
singlespeedtothemax1@hotmail.co.uk
Sorry if i messed up the thread!
Thanks,
Max
I have a 2017rs and find the fork can be a bit spikey on fast choppy descents. Anyone else experienced this? Just wondered whether a service will solve the problem, any views?
@bacondoublechee, where did you get the ML3 tune from? Will try the ML tune but already tempted to go for the ML3 tune or just say blow it and go down the Vorsprung Tractive Valve route!
SRAM part number is 11.4118.023.055, if you google that you should get some results, e.g. https://www.hibike.com/rock-shox-shock-spare-part-damping-p333fee60b3db20ccd96874b7e8e63bcc
There is a second shim stack in the reservoir too, from my experimenting and understanding, it only affects the two "non-open" lever positions, so you can add or remove shims to make the lever more or less firm. I pulled out a big shim once and it definitely felt softer on the firm lever setting, but didn't seem to affect the open setting (looks like the oil can bypass that shim stack when the lever is open).
If I am correct, the Vorsprung tractive thing is basically just a more granular off the shelf tune matched to your frames compression ratio and rider weight, whereby Vorsprung have a database of shim stacks offering more fine tuning than RockShox's four factory options.
If anyone else thinks the chainline on their bike is a bit rubbish when winching up steep hills in the big sprocket, you can run a non boost (6mm offset) SRAM direct mount chainring. It is pretty close to the chainstay but has around 3mm clearance and the chain runs much smoother in the 42t sprocket. Tested it out yesterday with 4000ft of vertical in 12 miles!
Jeeezus..where were you... in the foothills of Everest ?
Never had any noise issues with Eagle, the XT 11-speed on my old Mondraker however and other bikes I’ve ridden with it have sounded horrendous. To be fair I’m not a fan of any 11-speed gear, all the Shimano I’ve ridden has sounded awful and not been particularly slick and 11-speed SRAM just feels cheap and nasty and that’s before the narrow/wide upper jockey wheel goes out sync!!
Just got a new Eagle oval ring to try out and a Hope BB as the GXP one is goosed, just waiting on stickers for the Monarch Plus and mine will be back up and running!
Warranty replacement Monarch Plus and matching decals installed, also got some Maxxis Forekaster 2.35's to try and speed and lighten it up a bit, the DHF/HR II combo was probably grippier than I need and sooooo draggy. Gone back a Flux saddle as well as the Fabric I had before creaked like nothing else and isn't as comfy. The lever's on the guide rs brakes are getting a bit sticky too so will be splashing out on some Hope Race E4's come pay day. Still absolutely loving this bike, it does everything so well and is a real blast to ride!
Went to lube chain. My cranks don't move lol. Not a problem, bottom bracket dead. 2 min swap.
Oh. My tool doesn't fit! The swingarm is in the way on one side!*
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Impatience got the better of me, I thought the tool is likely to be delayed by the 5,000,000 tonnes of snow.
So it was just a question of whipping out the lower swingarm pivot bolt and that then gives access to the other side of the bottom bracket. Not really sure why I didn't think of that plan on Friday night in all honesty. I think I sort of did, but dismissed it.
As it was, it gave me a good chance to clean it all up and check the bearings too. Which happily, are as smooth as silk.
New BB installed and my cranks spin sweetly once again. Not that I will be riding it at the moment, but I can't stand it when things are not ready to roll.
So an update on the Whyte.... Here it is in it's full glory so far. we have upgrades consisting of:
Ccdb inline coil, Stans flow mk3 on blue Hope pro4 hubs, Vee rubber, DMR Axe cranks, DMR Wingbar mk3, DMR Deathgrips in orange, DMR Vault mag pedals, Sram GX Eagle with 34t chainring up front and an MRP Ramp control cartridge in the fork.
I'm currently looking at a pair of 2018 Xfusion Sweep HLR roughcut forks with 150mm of travel to beef up the front end a bit, should slightly extend the wheelbase and slacken it off to 66 degrees which isn't mega but it should be a hell of a lot more capable in the really rough stuff.
really enjoying the bike after over a year of riding it and its brought my riding on so much as im super comfortable on it and it just inspires me to push harder when im out riding it. The fact that i've beefed it up also means i'm not so worried about smashing it around and things breaking which is a bonus 😀
I noticed even on the small increase to 140mm front end (admittedly also with a longer axle>crown length too) you can really notice a difference in how it rides on trails, not necessarily in a good way... it gets a bit slower to turn, less flicky and fun... Sure you can hit more things, but there's a trade-off too.
I've even decided to use my T-130 outdoors on road rides now 🙂 It's even great for that. Although as time passes i wonder if i should have gone with the Large instead... I keep looking out for a large frame now, but part of me is tempted to purchase a large from Winstanleys and swap all my bits over to the frame and then flog mine with all the new parts but the old frame (it's pretty immaculate).
Eeeeek. They've lowered the price.. that's VERY tempting now lol.
I noticed even on the small increase to 140mm front end (admittedly also with a longer axle>crown length too) you can really notice a difference in how it rides on trails, not necessarily in a good way… it gets a bit slower to turn, less flicky and fun… Sure you can hit more things, but there’s a trade-off too.
I’ve even decided to use my T-130 outdoors on road rides now It’s even great for that. Although as time passes i wonder if i should have gone with the Large instead… I keep looking out for a large frame now, but part of me is tempted to purchase a large from Winstanleys and swap all my bits over to the frame and then flog mine with all the new parts but the old frame (it’s pretty immaculate).
really? tbh the whyte is the steepest and shortest travel bike i've had in a while, had an ellsworth moment with a slackset and 160mm forks (65.6 ha) and a dmr bolt l with 150mm forks which was the same @ 67 degrees. i might drop the bars a few mm and get a 35mm stem which should help. most of my riding is gravity oriented trail riding so im not fussed about how it climbs so much, as long as i can get to the top to tear down then im happy, i climb faster than most of my riding buddies as it is. i did wonder about getting a large but i was right on the limit with a 150mm dropper, the m is still longer than a lot of other medium bikes out there
me and my oppo have matching bikes... both same model, same size, everything... Except mine had clunky forks so i swapped them for the Xfusion 140s... We went to Afan shortly after and 1/2 way round swapped bikes, you could notice instantly the difference.
I asked him to jump on mine but never mentioned before hand why or what i was thnking. He commented straight away that the front end felt sluggish on mine...
me and my oppo have matching bikes… both same model, same size, everything… Except mine had clunky forks so i swapped them for the Xfusion 140s… We went to Afan shortly after and 1/2 way round swapped bikes, you could notice instantly the difference.
I asked him to jump on mine but never mentioned before hand why or what i was thnking. He commented straight away that the front end felt sluggish on mine…
if i do find it a problem i can adjust the travel on the sweep hlr down to 130 easy enough as it's done internally. the roughcut damper is phenomenal and highly regarded as one of the best on the market at the moment so it would still be an upgrade over the stock yari
Don't get me wrong, i still love the bike... I still use the bike and it's still brilliant.
It's just 'different' to how it was and how his is 🙂
weeksy, that's an older model of the T130, it has a front mech for a start, not sure if the geometry is the same. If the G150's were anything to go by, I would avoid Whytes without the wider single ring specific main pivot.
1. Yes, it's a 15, fairly different to 16/17s.
2. Doesn't now but came with a direct mount yes.
3. Why avoid?
The '15 varient was much shorter in the TT, which arguably is what makes the newer bike so good. I haven't ridden an older T130 but on paper I wouldn't want to go any shorter in the TT than my '17 T130C, a 50mm stem is the longest I'd want to run and that would mean I'd need an XL in the shorter frame, but then the seat tube is too long to run a 150mm dropper.
The pre-SCR bikes also had wiggly back ends, I rode a T129 with the older, narrower design and it was pretty flexy at the back end, even though the chainstays are only 5mm longer than the T130. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying the '15 T130 is a bad bike, but I would wager the newer ones with SCR back ends and longer TT's are better. Both are great, if someone offered me a '15 T130 I wouldn't say no, but personally I'd rather pay a bit more and get the in theory "better" & more "up to date" geometry.
At that price though it is a proper bargain, and if you ever had any warranty issues with the frame, you'd get the new one anyway!
Got the Hope Race E4's fitted yesterday, look ace and feel amazing! In combination with the tyres the bike's down to a smidge under 30lbs, 29lbs 14oz so only just there! My guess is the frame must be a bit porky as my old Mondraker was just under 28lbs with pedals, even taking the superlight Next SL cranks out of the equation the rest of the kit is comparable, so the frame must be a good lb or heavier, perhaps in part due to the alloy back end. Even so, I'm chuffed with how it's riding at the minute, am yet to try the brakes in anger and the Monarch Plus still needs a bit of fettling, but overall it's hard to fault!
would hate to think what mine weighs, is probably around the 33-34lb mark with the coils shock in there. need to get it on a set of scales haha
50km of mostly road on mine this morning. It did have a bit of a clunky/click in the latter half of the ride on hills. Given it a strip down, grease and check, but not exactly sure where it was from. It's still great though, even as a road bike.
Ive had my 2017 T130 for 18 months now, its been great so far. One problem now tho, the chain keeps falling off when things get bumpy. I have tried shortening the chain but that didn't work. I would like to fit a chain guide but cant see any way of being able to fit one to the bike. Has anyone had this problem with their T130? Has anyone managed to fit a chain guide?
Clutch on mech ok? Chain or chainring worn?
You really shouldn't need to put a chain device on but if you do I'm selling a BlackSpire Stinger in classifieds 😉
@ afanmark - I've had to fit a One-up chain device that sits behind the bearing cup (like an old school Stinger et al).
An alternative approach might be one of the new knobbled chainstay protectors on the 2019 Stumpjumper. The guys at my LBS - who have just taken in a load of 2019 Stumjumpers - claim that Specialized were reserching why on sustained rough trails the chain can whip or resonate to such an extent that it can overcome the clutch tension and then come off the chainring. Their thinking behind the knobbled protector is that it will dampen the whipping chain at different frequencies and thus prevent a derailment. The Stumpy also has an ISG mount, but the rubber protector is a mch more elegant solution if it actually works.
Interesting theory and it correlates with my experience of the specific times when my T130 threw a chain before I stuck on the One-Up.
Hope that helps
In answer to a couple of points in posts above.
For context 2017 T130RS.
Me too on third seat, and issue was seat moving on rails.
Me too chain coming off at times on fast bumpy descents. No issues with clutch mech, chain or chaining. Going to try a bb chain device.
Do love the bike, very confidence inspiring.
Interesting stuff about the difference in lenght from 2015 and 16 onwards. I have a 2015 SCR and prefer it' length to my Bird Zero. Both size small. But then I'm only 5ft5.
I use a one-up BB mounted chain device on my T130, to be honest you shouldn't need it unless your narrow-wide chainring is wearing out though. I get about 9 months out of a chainring before it starts dropping the chain everywhere (obviously not since I put the chain device on).
Thanks for replies. Clutch is fine but yeah the chainring is a bit worn, i am hoping to make it last a bit longer tho with the chain guide and save money in the long run. The mech system is working really well apart from the chain dropping off! I will look into the One Up bb mounted guide.
Dropped a chain on mine once, but that was down to a crazy amount of mud packed around the ring, pretty common on narrow/wide rings but overly purely rough terrain alone I've yet to ship one. Running a 34t Eagle oval chainring.
This is the little fella. Nicely made and easy to adjust
Hi all,
I'm looking for a new bike. My riding consists of (in order of regularity):
Local Essex jumpy trail spots (I live in East London)
Jumpy stuff (Chicksands etc)
Surrey Hills
North Wales DH and XC trails (parents live up there)
Bike parks (BPW etc)
Alps (hopefully a week this summer)
I think ideally I'd like something 150mm front/140mm rear. I'm also tempted by the T130 - it sounds like it pedals reasonably well (I am really keen for a nimble chuck-able bike), and descends well for a 130mm bike. I would like to hear people's thoughts on it's toughness - will it stand up to a few big jumps (and likely a few big cases), will it be OK in the Alps etc? I know it won't be as smooth as an enduro/DH bike, but will it fall apart?
FWIW, I'd be open to extending the fork to 140mm if possible.
Thanks!
Duane.
I can't see you breaking one in a hurry, they aren't built light! Mine (carbon model) has done BPW a couple of times (including enter the dragon etc) and has been to Finale without missing a beat.
Picked up some bargain Truvativ Stylo carbon cranks from work recently as they were on clearance, nothing wrong with my X1 cranks other than them being scuffed to hell but for the price it would've been rude not too! Look ace and while they're only 50 or so grams lighter every little helps! Bike has been pretty faultless recently during the crazy nice weather we've had in North Wales recently so been making the most of it (though it is now pissing it down!) Genuinely can't think of anything I'd change on it at the minute, it's just riding so bloody well!
Hi,
A bit of a resurection of a thread.
What is real life experience with wide-ish rear tyre on that bike? Something like real 2.5-2.6 inch?
Is that going to fit?
Cheers!
I.
Mine (2017 T130c-works) seems to be falling to bits at the moment, upper headset bearing failed, replaced both with Hope.
Maxle seized in front wheel, ended up chopping it out with junior hacksaw and replacing with new style one and now the front brake has the seized master cylinder piston issue, just awaiting replacement piston, sounds like I don't maintain the bike very well but that's really not the case, good job I'm lucky enough to have a DH bike to play on too!
Worried about this post ^
Was going to ask .. thinking one a T-130 or an s150 ....
General trail riding and being kinder on my back that the current hadtail ...
Also in the picture was a Canyon Spectral, or a Cotic FlareMax...
Or is it now worth to see what comes out in '19?
I've got the 2015 T130s and been up grading as I go along. 1x11, hubs, stem etc.
What's the max rear tyre clearance? Only asking because I know 2016 onwards they increased it.
I've got 2.25 Nobby nics on the back but would like 2.35 for winter.
Mrmoofo, I still think it's a great bike and up til now hasn't missed a beat, just seem to have everything happen at once!
Spent yesterday at the Alps in morzine and Les Gets on my t130.
Bike was just superb here. Did everything with easy, even the trickier stuff. But just flew down everything with ease. It's possible if I'd been pushing harder it may have got out of its depth but I'm not convinced that's true.
Apart from the forks being changed for 140s and none knocky / rattly ones, Ive not touched the bike. It's done several thousand miles, uplifts, xc racing, roads, Ridgeway, all of them brilliantly.
I'm in a minor dilemma in some ways now as Mrs weeksy was envious of our bonding time yesterday as me and my 10 year old had an ace day, so it's very possible the t130 may become hers. If that's the case I'll be getting an s150 to replace it I think. But that remains to be seen.