[Closed] Why get a winter road bike?

If you come off in ice or snow then you will have trashed your good bike.

Gritting and salting tend to degrade bikes.

I'd generally use a good bike in winter if it was dry and comparatively warm. Once it gets cold and wet....out comes the hack bike.

Plus, you will appreciate your 'good' bike more when the spring comes.

At the end of the day it is up to you.

'good bikes' tend not to have clearance for slightly fatter tyres or proper 'guards, either.

Ah yes, I hadn't considered the falling off possibility!

If you come off in ice or snow then you [s]will[/s] [i]may[/i] have [s]trashed[/s] [i]scratched[/i] your good bike.

I didn't have a winter bike for many years as I couldn't afford one and didn't have the space for it.

Now that's not the case, it's a fantastic feeling riding the non-winter road bike as it's not used all that much and bikes that aren't used in crap weather just feel that much smoother.

FWIW, my winter road bike is a carbon disc CX bike (with road tyres for road riding) so hardly slumming it.

If you use it a lot all winter, you will require new chainrings, chain and sprockets as a minimum, and the mechs and cables may be in a bit of a state too.

You also might not have space to put mudguards on as stated above, and even the parts that don't wear out will get tarnished by the rain and salty spray.

So it's up to you, but it might actually be the more economical solution if you have top end parts on your good bike, and it'll certainly give you the opportunity to put proper mudguards on.

A winter bike will have also have clearance and mounts for proper mudguards. Depends where you ride, but if I rode my race bike regularly through winter the weather would wreck it.
I have 13 year old front and rear gear mechs on the race bike which are still working perfectly. I've been through quite a few mechs on the commuting/winter bike in that time.

you will require new chainrings, chain and sprockets as a minimum, and the mechs and cables may be in a bit of a state too.

Nah, you'll get a couple of years on the road IME but that is wearing it to the point of starting to slip. Cables I find actually wear out much faster than the drivetrain.

It's about wearing out cheaper stuff, having proper mudguards.

If I had a penny for every noobie roadie bringing in a high end bike in spring that's been trashed by winter salt...

You don't have to get a winter bike but by the time you've bought those wheels, brake pads and possibly a new Cassette/rings/chain at the end of summer you're probably not far short of the price of a "Triban 3" or "Carrera TDF" and riding a "crap" bike all winter will make you're summer bike seem utterly awesome when you get back on it...

Personally I'm having a few second thoughts about flogging off all the parts from my old road bike (now I've gone and taken it apart), but winter commuting duties will fall to my fixie (guards are now on) and I've sort of decided said my [url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/my-diy-carbon-frame-repair ]"New"[/url] Carbon bike will be an all seasons bike as it's not cost me much to build so far, I'll just find some appropriate clip on guards and it can have new wheels come summer...

TBH if I was you OP I'd maybe look at a CX bike rather than a winter roadie covers more "bases" and should deal with poor weather better...

My winter bike, when compared to my summer bike, has:

Stronger wheels so I'm less worried about pot holes.
Disk brakes as they are better in the wet.
Wider tyres for more grip in the rain.
Full mud guards.
Mounts for a full size frame pump.
Lots of ugly looking reflective stuff on it.
Cheap group set which I don't mind getting covered in rain, wet lube and salt from the roads.

It's heavy and ugly (much like its owner) but it does it's job perfectly. And it means when I get on my best bike in the spring I feel like I gain about 5mph (I don't, but it feels like it!). Mine's a PX Kaffenback BTW.

and of course, your 'summer' bike can get a full strip-down+rebuild over winter.

(and your winter bike gets the same treatment in summer)

it means you can REALLY keep on top of maintenance, which helps things last longer.

.

Why not?

I've a cheap Ribble with 105, full mudguards, wider tyres, that I'll happily ride through anything..

I don't mind about it getting trashed etc, whereas my summer bike, I'm a bit more protective over..

It's great to have a bike permanently set up with mud guards all year round. In Englandshire it occasionally rains during the summer - handy to have an alternative.

(Having said that I was on my winter bike for the 1st time on Saturday - like riding a farm gate compared with my good bike). Roll on next summer.

Depends how far your commuting and how often doesn't it

I used to commute 8 miles every day - in this case fatter tyres, mudguards, and cheaper, heavier kit might make sense. I say might as I used to do this on my normal racer without too much bother but each to there own.

These days I do a 22 mile commute twice a week. I can choose the best riding days to avoid the worst of the weather.... and no way would I do this distance on anything other than a fast bike.

It's great to have a bike permanently set up with mud guards all year round. In Englandshire it occasionally rains during the summer - handy to have an alternative.

Exactly this, but maybe it depends how committed you are to road riding anyway. If you don't think it makes sense for you, it probably doesn't!

And the black ice thing on cold days in winter.

Winter bike = Commuting bike, light, fixed, nice to ride, full mudguards.
Nice bike = Summer and dry winter day rides, SKS Raceblade Long mudguards.
Race bike = Race bike all year round (Imperial Winter Series starts Dec 8th)

I have an extra set of wheels for winter for the Nice/Race bikes. And I do commute on the Nice and Race bikes when I'm riding them after work (club and race nights).

What TiRed said. But if I only had two it'd be a training bike that'd be used all year round (maybe with a change of wheels for summer) and a race bike.

I've used my Madone over a few winters when I've not had winter bikes, I think it's sustained more 'damage' (and it's mainly superficial - light batteries rubbing, mud guard stays scuffing etc) in 2 winters than in 10 years of summer riding.

It's not died though, the aluminium chainrings are original, chain and cassette wear hasn't been all that much work. My Allez, which is now my winter bike, has cheaper parts on but they need replacing more. It's had 3 sets of brake calipers, whilst the Dura Ace ones on the Madone remain fine (although the nuts are rather seized).

I understand the salt and the fact that winter is not kind on your bike but I don't understand people saying it has stronger wheels for potholes.

Do the council come round and fix all the potholes in spring and then chip out the tarmac in autumn?

Do the council come round and fix all the potholes in spring and then chip out the tarmac in autumn?

It may just me being a crap rider but I certainly hit a lot more of them in the winter than the summer.

I have a Titanium Sabbath September for sale racks and mudguards included £950
[url= https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7438/12440870333_dae07fbde7_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7438/12440870333_dae07fbde7_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/jXmHjn ]20140210_120452[1][/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/people/22534490@N00/ ]Richard Munro[/url], on Flickr

What lunge said.

A Pair of CXP22s with lots of spokes paired with fat tyres or fatter tyres, make a lot of sense for the winter commute. As I don't have a commute any more it is largely academic for me. I usually try to run tyres with more volume anyway. Winter roads are a lot rougher plus, where I live, the rain tends to wash flints and stones into the road. This in turn calls for bigger tyres albeit ones with some puncture protection.

I only have one bike (carbon), about £1,800 worth. 7 years later it's still going same as always. Groupset hasn't exploded, it's lasting far better than MTB stuff as you'd expect. I really can't see a reason to get another one! I can't fit anything other than 23s but this hasn't been an issue. It doesn't have race wheels, since it was built as a general purpose bike.

I have a hybrid for commuting purposes which is battered around and covered in racks and guards and stuff. The roadie takes clip-on guards nicely enough. I don't wash it much, I've only given it 3-4 cassettes, and it's not showing any signs of corrosion. Unless you count the loss of sheen on crank arms etc.

I think summer bikes are for roadies who are precious about their pimpy clean Italian bling.

My winter bike is for commuting and shit weather. It has full length guards and lights fitted. It also cost less to build than replacing the chain, chain rings and cassette on the fast bike. I do around a thousand miles per month give or take and a winter at that mileage will eat a bike alive. On a wet day it's nice to pick up the winter bike and roll it out the door without worrying too much about it eating expensive parts. I also ride in a group so mudguards are good manners.

I really can't see a reason to get another one!

It's another bike. More bikes = good.

I don’t commute every day but it’s a 65 mile round trip so I’d need something reasonably quick.

Seems that the general opinion is that winter really ****s a road bike!

I’m trying to not spend too much as I sold my Roubaix to part fund this purchase, so I’ll be gutted if I have to re-spend that sort of money when I could have kept the Roubaix for winter duties.

A slightly cheaper option would be to put 1” tyres on my singlespeed mtb and run it something like 50/16, but I can’t imagine that it would feel right.

I think summer bikes are for roadies who are precious about their pimpy clean Italian bling.

Me me me! 🙂

I love having a road bike that is spotless and kept for best.

Every other bike is filthy which just makes it all the better.

It's the wheels as well. That scraping noise of pads on wet gritty rims hurts me when it happens to a £500 pair of Mavics. If it's my R500's that are being worn away then I don't give a toss.

Just like MTB's, if you get caught in the wrong conditons with the wrong chain lube you can trash a road bikes drivechain in a single ride too.

The finish on my road bike's been knackered by salt.

Idealy I'd keep it for sumemr use, but it's not really nice enough, and seeing as a winter bike would need a full strip in Spring anyway, it's not anymore effort to do it to my one and only bike.

But as others said, it'd be nice to have a bike ready set up with 28c tyres, guards, disks, wet lubed chain etc as well as just saving the nice bike. Drasticaly reduced the number of days where you have to think "mehhhh, not today".

It's the wheels as well. That scraping noise of pads on wet gritty rims hurts

Damn right, a crappy winter of commuting and wet club runs can trash a pair of rims.

would much rather replace a pair of Open sports at @25 per end each time rather than posh wheels where rims are often very difficult to get hold of and cost a fortune.

TBH if I was you OP I'd maybe look at a CX bike rather than a winter roadie covers more "bases" and should deal with poor weather better...

Or he could buy my guard-shod winter Defy to allow me to do that ^ 😀

I think it's sustained more 'damage' (and it's mainly superficial - light batteries rubbing, mud guard stays scuffing etc) in 2 winters than in 10 years of summer riding.

I'd cry if that happened to my carbon Bianchi

It's great to have a bike permanently set up with mud guards all year round. In Englandshire it occasionally rains during the summer - handy to have an alternative.

...and my winter bike sits on the turbo trainer when not in use for winter duties, using cheap £11 Luganos rather than even bothering swapping for a turbo specific tyre.

To be honest I've just bought a winter/ crap weather bike, a Genesis Equlibrium, full Sora 9 speed and 32 spoke wheels, the guards will be going on soon.

The main driver behind it is that my Giant TCR is way too nice to ride in crappy weather and the new wheels on it were about half the price of the genesis, also tyre clearance is crap for the cow poo paved country / rough Tarmac roads we have round here from now until about March

My main reason for not having a summer road bike is that I'd never ride it. It can rain and be crappy any time of year, and often does 🙂

My nice road bike is used all year round with a swap to a cheaper wheelset / gp4seasons and a ass saver was fine both winters - in fact I managed the Rapha festive 500 on it in some pretty horrible weather last winter.

All it's needed is a new chain. Cleaning the salt off is a bit of a pain but I think the extra wear winter causes is over egged.

That said, I'm in the market for a winter bike - probably a disk equipped CX mainly because its time for n+1 rather than I need it.

I think summer bikes are for roadies who are precious about their pimpy clean [s]Italian[/s] Taiwanese bling.

FTFY. If the weather looks like rain and wet lube would be needed, The pimpy clean Taiwanese Bling stays in the garage. If it looks dry and crisp, it comes out. Racing is on closed unsalted circuits, so the race bike is used all year around.

And then there's that feeling of swinging your leg over your best bike after months of riding the heavy one. It's soooooo nice. Whoosh.!

...and my winter bike sits on the turbo trainer when not in use for winter duties, using cheap £11 Luganos rather than even bothering swapping for a turbo specific tyre.

I'd probably do the opposite, nice clean expensive summer bike in the house, winter bike covered in crud in the shed!

'spoon - this piece is crucial:

"when not in use for winter duties"

I do clean down even the winter roadie after a ride, but sweat is quite corrosive don't you know, I'd still rather the posh bike isn't subjected to the pool of salt laden excretion from my body during a turbo session...

Or to flip this around the other way, if you have a practical road bike that can stand a bit of grit and doesn't cost a fortune to replace consumable parts then why have the "dry" weather bike that no doubt costs several times as much and is ridden a fraction of the time? Far too sensible 😀 Even more so when most people taking the winter bike approach don't race or have any real need for the MOAR performance you get out of the dry bike.... and if you aaarrree racing then the sensible folk will take heed of "don't race what you can't replace". A crash will very often do more damage than Wintery salt and grit. One well specced, robust bike (CAAD 10 or Chinese carbon w/ Ultegra perhaps), maybe with 2 sets of wheels... wouldn't that make more sense for most people?

It's all n+1 at the end of the day however you try and justfy it 😉 People are far too precious about bikes- they are tools to do a job at the end of the day

I do clean down even the winter roadie after a ride, but sweat is quite corrosive don't you know, I'd still rather the posh bike isn't subjected to the pool of salt laden excretion from my body during a turbo session...

One well specced, robust bike (CAAD 10 or Chinese carbon w/ Ultegra perhaps), maybe with 2 sets of wheels... wouldn't that make more sense for most people?

Same way as a lot of racers I've known had a minimum of 3 bikes.

Winter (28c tyres, guards, tripple etc)
Race (something cheap, 105, alumnium etc)
Summer (bling, DA, carbon, etc)
And a TT, track, Cross, turbo bikes, and duplicates of the summer bike in Ti, Steel, Carbon, Aluminium.

The logic being that you don't want to ride your race bike before the race and break something, so you do most of your training on the nice summer club run bike, then race on something with matching geometry that's reliable and you don't mind so much it being broken in the race.

I've got sweat corrosion on the toptube of my XC race bike which has never been on a turbo 🙂

the winter bike isn't meant to be racey, it needs full length guards, big tyres, etc, not just a race bike you don't mind trashing.

But why put up with a crap ride all winter?

Surely the whole winter bike aim is just to use an old crappy bike you moved on from? Either that or get a cheap Ribble. If you aren't commuting, just doing club runs and the like I don't think riding in the winter does all that much damage TBH, provided bike is put away cleaned. Sure a new chain and cassette and tyres, but not much else. You can get mudguards that will fit almost all bikes now.

I think the OP has a point that it probably is just cheaper to replace a few bits at the end of winter, rather than buy a whole new bike. (Assuming its not running Campag Super Record or some other hideously expensive bling groupset.)

On the other hand commuting trashes bikes so get something specific for the job.

But why put up with a crap ride all winter?

My thoughts exactly.

Road bikes have a pretty simple job. It isn't hard to snap on some mudguards or even survive without them so it all seems a bit daft to have a bike for every weather forecast. Wide tyres are nice but not at all necessary.

It seems a false economy for most people like the OP to buy several cheaper bikes and maybe not all that helpful to your aspirations of being fast in Summer as these extra bikes most likely have small differences in fit to your "best" bike.. etc... etc. Just n+1.

When I observe the guys I ride with, I think the motivation for the Winter bike more comes from the fact they've been suckered in to paying well over the odds for a "Summer" bike. When their bikes cost the same as a house deposit then I can understand the desire to not use it any more than is strictly necessary 😀

I'll be getting a wet weather bike this winter, it won't be crap it'll just have full guards and discs. There's something incredibly frustrating for me about constantly faffing with mudguards taking 'em on and off. I've missed club runs before 'cos I've got the forecast wrong and had to put Cruds on in the morning. (I could get up earlier but that besides the point...) Race bike will be getting some love then only rolled out on dry summer days and races.

My winter roadie is much like my winter mtb - steel & singlespeed 🙂

it all seems a bit daft to have a bike for every weather forecast.

One for good weather, one for bad weather. It's not rocket science.

🙄

Coming off in winter due to poor conditions is a fair comment, but I think the wear and tear thing is over stated. I rode my only road bike all winter without any significant wear. But then I do keep it clean so grit and salt never had a chance to really trash the drive train.

+1 for the cheap option. I bought a £600 Sora Giant Defy from Pedalon and with thier podium points system got defy specific guards, overshoes and a few other bits thrown in. As mentioned when not being uised on the road it sits on the turbo - guards an' all.

There's something incredibly frustrating for me about constantly faffing with mudguards taking 'em on and off.

...is the only thing stopping me from selling the above Defy and buying a Kinesis Crosslight (well, that ans an annual plan which excludes 'cross atm).

But why put up with a crap ride all winter?

Doesn't 4lbs bother you?

Q) why get a road bike?

A1) see posts above.
A2) see posts above.
A3) see posts above.

etc.

if you don't agree with those answers, then the solution is really simple, don't get a winter bike.

Carry on as you are, good for you.

No mol', it doesn't bother me that my winter bike is 8, yes EIGHT, pounds heavier than my nice bike. most of that weight is in the cheap wheels*, marathon (plus) tyres, mudguards.

but guess what, my winter shoes are heavier than my summer shoes. my winter gloves are heavier than my summer gloves, more clothes weighs more than less clothes.

i'm a bit slower in winter, and it doesn't bother me.

(*deore hubs that just won't die)

Doesn't 4lbs bother you?

it's for riding a lot, rather than frotting over

That's what my carbon bike is for. In fact, that's what all my bikes are for!

Nice bike is 7.2 kilos, winter bike is 9.2 kilos. Of course there is a four pound (two water bottles and tools) weight difference, but the absence of gears and freewheel is a bigger difference. That and the rather nice flexy steel frame. I love riding the winter bike, but for different reasons to the nice bike, hence I don't feel the compromises others might.

Of course I'd rather like to save a kilo and go titanium custom, but I'm kidding myself it would improve what is already a very nice ride.

To me, the point is to have a bike better suited to riding conditions in winter. As a few people have said, it doesn't have to be old or low spec necessarily, but it is a shame to ruin good gear if you aren't one for keeping on top of the washing routine in winter. It doesn't have to be inherently worse spec. Just different.

So that means mudguards, fatter tyres, possibly disc brakes, possibly dynamo lights. All elements that you probably wouldn't want permanently fixed to your summer bike, and that are a hassle to swap frequently (there are after all days in the winter that take you by surprise when you can ride your 'nice bike' for a treat if the roads are dry). It is about a bike that protects the rider better from the elements thrown up by the road, one that can handle worse road conditions more comfortably and is more resistant to corrosion. It might even have a different geometry to feel better when you are wrapped up like the Michelin Man and can't flex as much!

In some respects higher end kit is actually better suited to winter riding. The more you pay, the better the bearings should be. The better sealed the cables should be, the less prone to contamination related shifting issues you will have. And ultimately, electronic changing is even less prone to dirt. And also, better components should have more resilient finishes.

Keep it clean, and there is no need to sacrifice riding pleasure with an overweight, worse performing bike. Life's too short.

There isn't a single answer as to why get a winter bike. But on the whole if you can get away with it (space, cost, marriage etc), why not have something that keeps you drier, warmer and more comfortable in a season when it is already pretty hard to motivate yourself to get out of the door?

Here's mine, and it fits most of the above. Discs, carbon, titanium and electronic shifting make ideal wet weather gear. The titanium frame which is extremely corrosion resistant, can be brushed up as good as new every spring.

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Less salt on the roads in Hong Kong than here in Cumbria, though, I expect!?

But a lot more shit (literally!).

About to move to Singapore (trying to convince myself that I am somehow making my way back towards home!).

Average 'winter' temperature of 30 deg C, but it rains a lot and it is so hot that the riding takes place after dark, so the mudguards and lights will still be relevant, but just for different reasons. Plus, we have just heard that we are expecting our first child, so my riding will have to be in stolen moments regardless of weather and light.

What I wouldn't give for a ride in the Dales or Lakes tomorrow, even in the middle of winter.......

You can get mudguards that will fit almost all bikes now.

It isn't hard to snap on some mudguards or even survive without them

You've either not experienced the utter missery of riding on a cold day after a shower and getting soaked with water from below, or don't ride in a group.

You can convert a race bike for winter riding, but it's just not as nice as something more specific. When your enthusiasm for getting out the door on a drizzly sunday morning in Febuary is already low, at least having the propper kit tips the ballance back the other way a little. Disks/canti's, bigger tyres, more padding on the saddle, full guards, IME all just as important as nice gloves, balaclavas, windstoppers/gillets, overshoes and roubaix tights.

Speaking of which .... What tyres for winter guys ?

but it is a shame to ruin good gear if you aren't one for keeping on top of the washing routine in winter

What gear gets ruined?

weeksy - Member
Speaking of which .... What tyres for winter guys ?

Ignore all the fancy bollocks and get some Michelin Lythion 2 folders for £15 each. Excellent winter tyres.

What gear gets ruined?

All the Aldi stuff init 😉

What gear gets ruined?

Anything to do with drive (chain, cassette, derailleurs, chainrings) will wear down with the abrasive paste that builds up if you don't keep on top of the cleaning. Untreated bolts will rust. Cables can seize. Wheel rim brake tracks unless you use discs. Saddles and shorts/tights wear faster once wet and gritty. Frames and forks are more prone to internal and external corrosion.

Generally, winter is harder on gear. It's just an unfortunate downside of riding throughout the winter months.

What gear gets ruined?

My ultegra chain and cassete went from perfect to 'two shifts up then one shift down borked' in 40 biblicaly wet miles. They were getting on a bit anyway, but for dry use they'd have done another summer. I thought there might be a shower, but I went out anyway, the dry lube lasted a matter of minutes!

A winter bike wouldn't have avoided that, but it would be nice to have a drivechain for those days that I knew would always be a bit worn, and one for nice days. And those days are nearly always simoultaneous with wanting mudguards, and bigger tyres are nice in winter as the roads break up, and stronger brakes in the wet, etc.

If you ride with a club your clubmates will hate you if you have a bike without guards. Dangerous for them as well as mucky - spray in their eyes is not safe.
The clip-on guards aren't as long as full guards so they don't stop this happening.
I ride 25mm tyres in winter - wetter and icier roads need more grip. I didn't quite get this when I first got a winter bike and have a scar on my chin and got a broken finger for my ignorance...
IME it only takes one winter for a newly-converted road rider to go off to the shop with credit card in hand for a winter bike when they see how wrecked their £2k+ summer bike has got...

My ultegra chain and cassete went from perfect to 'two shifts up then one shift down borked' in 40 biblicaly wet miles.

Well in all my years of biking I've never had a worn chain and cassette do that. Gunked up cables do that all the time.... Also I've ridden in enough pouring rain to know that rain doesn't wear out my cassette. As I said, had my road bike seven years, it must've had 4 or maybe 5 cassettes.

You can get mudguards that will fit almost all bikes now.

And they're rubbish. Proper SKS fitted guards FTW.

Its an interesting debate I'd say

But are we really saying summer bike and winter bike or Wet bike and dry bike

Because it can rain in the summer and often does

I'm quite entertained by the idea that one needs to spend the winter on a rubbsh bike to appreciate you nice

You really don't need another bike and if you look after it, a derailleur-geared road bike will last perfectly well in rubbish weather. I'd strongly recommend full length mudguards as they protect you and the bike from lots of road muck. Forget about having a pristine drivetrain, just keep it nice and oily and black with regular applications of gloopy wet weather lube and give it the odd rinse if it's been salty. You might want wider tyres but equally, lowering the pressure a bit gives you more grip and comfort.

And they're rubbish. Proper SKS fitted guards FTW.

I do clean and lube it though - which is more than can be said for the owner.

My ultegra chain and cassete went from perfect to 'two shifts up then one shift down borked' in 40 biblicaly wet miles.

The speed with which dry lube is removed can be astonishing, though.

Water in the cables. Annoying and if left, can do damage, but can be remedied by undoing the pinch bolt and sliding off the outer.

This is why my winter bike now has Di2 🙂 Perfect shifts all winter.

You'll be crying when you scratch that RD on the ice though. At least my shiny silver 6600 polishes out 😈

It is for precisely that reason that I've been considering Di2. Took a lot of cleaning to restore the shifting after the Ride London gritty jetwash.

http://www.pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-174.html

http://www.boeing.com/commercial/aeromagazine/aero_07/corrosn.html

Really want some of those Mavic anniversary wheels at the moment(yes I know theres better value out there) if I do get them Im not going to run them through the winter on salty gritty roads.

Sunny sunday best only!

If you're worried about corrosion then surely carbon fibre is an ideal frame material?

I can appreciate different wheels for racing and training, that's fair enough.

Not sure its the frame material thats an issue, my winter frame is alu, summer carbon but the alu is 8 speed and sealed BB inexpensive wheels, headset, saddle, bars etc nothing that can't be replaced for t30 quid or a bit more for the wheels.

TBh my only reservation about using a winter bike is that is makes it obvious how little extra I get from spending on shiny stuff but still think its a good idea to get the best lifespan out of that expensive gear.

Winter bike has a 5700 groupset. Summer bike a mix of 6600 and 5700 so similar.

Winter bikes has handbuilt wheels (dura ace 7900 / open pro)*, Summer bike has factory wheels (Mavic Ksyrium Elite). Makes rim swaps a hell of a lot cheaper on the bike where I'm likely to wear rims out.

Winter bike has full mudguards and 25mm tyres. Summer bike has no guard clearance and 23mm tyres

Winter bike is steel (Genesis Equilibrium 853), Summer bike is carbon (Spesh Tarmac) - both lovely to ride.

Cost - pretty damn similar. I don't want a cheap bike for winter, just a suitable one. My commute is 28 miles each way, I'd have to be nuts to do that on a bike I don't love riding 🙂

*have just fitted a dynamo front wheel (SP / Open Pro)

The "winter bike" label is prob a bit misleading.

I think "wet weather bike" suits better.
Summer or winter, if it's wet, the "wet weather bike" takes over duties.

Had quite a few falls the last few winters because of wet & Ivey roads. The Alu frame shows the scars, if it was a carbon frame I think I would be a little concerned how safe the frame was.

My winter bike is more than just a winter bike. It's also my bike with mudguards for summer rain. My bike with lower gears for particularly hilly rides (it has a triple rather than a compact and a bigger cassette too). My bike with spds for days when I want to ride somewhere and walk around. I'm less bothered about locking it up to do that too. My reserve commuter when my main commute bike has a mechanical. My reserve road bike when my good bike has a mechanical.

I use them both, and it justified a new bike 😉