[Closed] Why do people like steel bikes?

Why don't you try one and find out?

If done properly then the ride quality is excellent.

By properly I mean traditional 1-1/8 steerer head tube, narrow 27.2mm seat tube, stays as thin as pencils etc etc....when done like that there is an inherent flex/spring from the frame that is a joy to ride.

Unfortunately the prevalence of massive head tubes to take tapered forks, large diameter seat tubes to take dropper posts and chunky stays mean that modern steel frames are often as harsh as their fat tubed aluminium cousins.

I should imagine a steel road bike with impossibly thin tubing rides great, I will own one at some point.

It's a good question, because they can be pretty heavy! I used to think that a steel frame was essential for a comfortable ride, but I've tried some really comfy aluminium bikes so I'm not sure if that is still the case.
I am pretty certain that a steel frame will last longer though, and I also really like the way they look! You can't get those skinny tubes with any other material apart from titanium, which is too expensive for me.

I like the flex on my fixed wheel bike. I like the tube profiles on my TT bike and I like the rear dropouts on my mtb.

Skinny tubes do look good, especially profiled Columbus Aero.

for me personally,i started with steel bikes (my first mountain bike was a 1988 dawes ascent 501 reynolds tubed steel behemoth 🙂

i currently have a charge duster steel ht (tange prestige skinny tubing goodness)

a well made steel bike feels very nice to ride (it does absorb some of the shock of bumps e.t.c on the trail). steel is easily repairable,reasonably cheap to buy,and also not heavy either (my duster at a guess weighs about 25-26 lbs).

like any material there are good and bad points,but it comes down to personal preference.

Well I'm looking at this for work and back but would a giant defy be better??

http://m.evanscycles.com/products/norco/search-s1-2015-adventure-road-bike-ec072575

I've a steel hardtail (Orange Pure 7) and can echo the sentiments above. It does have a nicely dampened, springy feel to it. It's certainly "different" in a good way to aluminium hardtails I've owned and ridden in the past.

because in 20 years time it will still work and it can be fixed bay anyone with a welder

as for ride feel its fine
There is a weight penalty but not but I am not trying to build a race bike rather one that will last for ever.

Cross bike/tourer and a SS in steel

I buy bikes if I like the way they ride. My summer road bike is carbon and lighter than my singlespeed steel commuter but the commuter is still a beautiful bike to ride - very comfortable, just rolls along. I wouldn't want a fast bike for commuting anyway - riding steadily is safer in traffic

I ride nothing but steel these days and I've been through a lot of stuff before coming back to it. Including carbon road bikes, which were lovely and light and stuff and fast... but also slightly dead feeling and they look tatty really quickly. Like JY says, steel will take tones of abuse and can be resprayed and fixed easy enough if there a wee bit of damage. They do look lovely too. Mostly, for me though, it's about the superb ride quality and longevity of a well made steel frame. My current list includes:

Shand Stoater
Genesis Equilibrium
Enigma Ethos
Singular Swift
Ritchey P29er

Cheapy, badly built steel frames though can be horribly heavy and ride like a dead dog. But, as the genesis listed above proves, you don't need boutique steel to get something that rides lovely and will stand the test of time.... as well as turn a few heads.

I've got a steel mtb, fully rigid. It's heavy and feels neutral, until you top about 30mph on a rough stony trail. It feels great then 🙂

Stooo thanks for that! Can I have your thoughts on what I'm thinking of buying then please?

http://m.evanscycles.com/products/norco/search-s1-2015-adventure-road-bike-ec072575
/p>

Kind regards

Cos of the zim zam and the bibbity bobbaty

I just really like the look of thin, round steel tubes compared to chunky hydro-formed aluminium or carbon. I think it just looks right, and the ride is nice too (not that you can't get that with other materials). As such I have a Bfe, an Inbred and a 531 framed road bike.

Any excuse..

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They can look nice, that's all.

I have a soul. There is something aesthetically pleasing about the skinny tubing yes but also when I change gear the frame sort of zings, it sounds different that my old alu bike and I love it.

So since all the steel bikes now seem to be messed up with tapered head tubes and seat tubes for dropper posts, also BB30 bottom brackets. What 29er frame to buy?

My old soul has a 27.2 dropper and a 1' 1/8" headtube with 2014 130mm revelations 780 bars and a 50mm stem. Advantages of modern developments with the benefits of old fashioned skinny. It's rad.

So as a works commute most of you think that I will love a steel (Reynolds 520) Bike.

Old fashioned skinny Inbred here in 29 flavour. The rear triangle definitely gives some flex and on flowing trail, it's a joy to ride. I couple it with a very flexy X-Fusion Slide fork. Worlds apart from my Pike equipped solid FS. LBS questioned why I'm still riding old tech. They would, wouldn't they?

Ritchey Logic 2.0 here. Noice.

Mmm... steel...

+1 on the any excuse, er, excuse-

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

and the Exalt I had last year-

[IMG] [/IMG]

I wish I still had that DMR!

I just like how steel frames look.

I like the way steel frames look but don't like what they weigh. Ti is the perfect frame for me as has similar look in tubes to steel but almost as light as Alu.

Never bought the comfort thing (not on MTB anyway) as pretty sure my 2.2 high volume tyres are making any flexibility in the frame unnoticeable.

The Cotic Solaris I've recently sold was OK but nothing special, the carbon frame that replaced it is noticeably nicer to ride. Faster, lighter and more compliant.

I've had plently of steel road bikes made from all sorts of tubing. The best by far is Columbus SLX, it has a feel quite distinct from any other tubeset, almost "floaty" on the road. The only steel road frame I've got now is Columbus EL OS, I really should get it out of the loft, build it and ride it.

My current 456 Evo2 is the best hardtail I've ever owned, and I've had everything from silly expensive Ti frames, alloy frames, other steel such as different Inbred's etc.

The only thing I haven't had is a carbon frame, but given how good the 456 is that's unlikely to happen.

A work bike will have to take a few knocks and scratches, and all the steel bikes I've owned have rusted with winter use, so I prefer a non corroding frame for commuting duty (for practical, not aesthetic reasons).

[i] I prefer a non corroding frame for commuting duty[/i]

Carbon's always felt a bit vulnerable when parked up in a cycle rack for me to consider it as day to day transport.

To start with they tend to look nice.
I am not even thinking about MTB's here. Skinny tubes look good, whopping fat carbon ones look just like other whopping big things 😆
Weight? Come on. Maybe at TdF level but for the rest of us. Eat no pies for a week.
Good ones ride nicely. Sadly many new ones are not much more than the famous gas pipe. My Cotic X falls nicely into that category. Good steel is great but so many companies have jumped on the resurrected bandwagon and have come out with clunkers.

Geometry first, material properties second, weight third, actual material distant fourth...

A work bike will have to take a few knocks and scratches, and all the steel bikes I've owned have rusted with winter use, so I prefer a non corroding frame for commuting duty (for practical, not aesthetic reasons).

I've got a shedfull of steel bikes, some rustier than others but I'd disagree with you on a few points;

1)The steel frames resit knocks and dents much better, importantt for a commuter which is going to get locked up against a steel stand, not rested carefully against a garage wall.

2) The aluminium finishing kit bits corrode before the steel frames, I've got a steel frame form the 50's, but I think corrosion will do for my aluminium CAAD before anything else, it's bubbling horribly around the headtube.

3) Good steel frames don't rust particularly quickly. I've worn through the paint on plenty of frames but the surface coatings do a good job of preventing rust.

If there's a steel option available I'll usually look at it first, it just shrugs off the abuse of mountain biking and daily commuting better than softer materials.

A work bike will have to take a few knocks and scratches, and all the steel bikes I've owned have rusted with winter use, so I prefer a non corroding frame for commuting duty (for practical, not aesthetic reasons).

Whereabouts did you find the rust kcr? I'm commuting on a steel frame and I want it to last! Is there somewhere where should I be looking? 🙂

jacob46 - Member
So as a works commute most of you think that I will love a steel (Reynolds 520) Bike.

I don't thiNK ANYONE HAS SAID THAT. ITS PERSONAL, give some a test ride, we can't make your mind up for you. Damn cl.

For me its about aesthetics, ride quality and theoretical ease of repair.

That said, and as above, you shouldn't go off because its steel it will be a nice ride.

The ride quality of a material, in my mind, is in the design and not necessarily the material.

I've owned Ti frames that have had the aesthetics of a steel frame but have been too flexy in use and iMHO would have benefitted from larger diameter tubes and conversely hugely overbuilt carbon frames that has been super smooth.

I didn't like my Solaris but love my Fortitude.

I guess, again IMHO, the only way to know if its right is to test ride.

I like skinny tubes and neat welds. I appear to have 6 steel framed bikes at the moment!

[url= https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5072/5882371616_0f0ecdafae_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5072/5882371616_0f0ecdafae_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/9XNG9h ]15th Anniversary Ride[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/simondbarnes/ ]Simon Barnes[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4132/5223949200_83e9bb7bd8_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4132/5223949200_83e9bb7bd8_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/8XC76E ]New Drivetrain[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/simondbarnes/ ]Simon Barnes[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3843/15185950160_ca45987b56_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3843/15185950160_ca45987b56_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/p8VXUU ]Genesis Equilibrium 853[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/simondbarnes/ ]Simon Barnes[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7701/17368253512_a45151c0a5_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7701/17368253512_a45151c0a5_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/ssLQEL ]Bank Holiday spin[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/simondbarnes/ ]Simon Barnes[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2897/14708708811_8b8d867469_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2897/14708708811_8b8d867469_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/opKYFM ]Genesis High Latitude in the Welsh hills.[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/simondbarnes/ ]Simon Barnes[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8698/17344081432_5421d75052_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8698/17344081432_5421d75052_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/sqCX9L ]Just add racks & panniers for adventure[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/simondbarnes/ ]Simon Barnes[/url], on Flickr

Deviant is spot on. The latest soul frinstance is way stiffer than the mk1, due to the reasons he states.

TBH steel is just a material, like any material you can build bikes that suit their application better or worse using some form or another of steel...

One way or another I seem to have always own at least one steel framed bike at any given time over the last decade or two and I've no particular fetish for skinny tubes or the supposed ride quality.

Basically it will come down to a balancing of Cost, weight, durability and "Ride" and that is true of any frame material IMO, Steel generally scores well on Cost and Durability IMO, and the other criteria can vary massively around that. There is no real definitive answer, only people's strongly held opinions...

For a bike to ride to work OP the Norco Search you linked looks pretty good to me, notably it includes 28mm tyres, a carbon fork/seatpost which all seem like nods towards comfort, along with what look like slightly curved seat stays... my only real question would be, can it take guards and racks? (assuming you might want them) boring I know, but as much of a practical consideration as the frame material...

So as a works commute most of you think that I will love a steel (Reynolds 520) Bike.

You will provided it's not too heavy. My steel Kona has monocoque carbon forks with full SKS mudguards, carbon seatpost, handmade wheels a single fixed sprocket and generally light parts. It is eight kilos. A road bike this light, with good geometry and some flex in the frame will always feel great on a commute.

A twelve kilo steel lump with touring geometry, heavy wheels and cheap finishing kit will feel like a drag.

I own a variety of bikes. I own steel, aluminium and carbon bikes of various guises and each has its own benefits in terms of ride properties.

My race bikes have always focused on weight so are normally aluminium or carbon since it is cheaper to get a light stiff frame.

However, utility bikes (SS mountain bikes, commuting bikes) are often steel. I like the look of skinny steel tubes. A well built tough steel frame will go on and on - it also has the advantage that once it gets a bit tatty it is a relatively inexpensive process to get it blasted and powder coated - harder with aluminium and carbon. These ar bikes built to be reliable not performance - I need my commuter day after day and it needs to work without being fettled constantly.

At some point in my future I think I'll get an audax/tourer as it is something I want to do but am currently too focused on racing. Probably be steel just because they look nice and can be more versatile in terms of muduards and racks.

Just look at the sexy curves of those stays:

[img] [/img]

Good looking steel adventure/road bike you say

Have you looked at the Cotic Escapade or road rat?

[url= http://https://www.cotic.co.uk/product/escapade#gallery ]linky[/url]

Definitely comfort for me. Mk3 Soul replaced an Orange 5 and just as comfy on all but fast trail centre and big rocky days. Similarly CDF30 for touring and gentle off road, although on a long road ride it's no more comfy that carbon Defy

Love my Genesis Flyer commute 125km a week on it and it never feels like a chore even with London traffic.

[img] https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xlZbil_4VrU/VW1pz-7SNSI/AAAAAAAAFWs/UTntHiKfdWU/s1280-no/2015%2B-%2B1 [/img]

I can see little reason to get a steel frame unless you are going custom. The supposed comfier ride is just old wives tales with nothing to back it up.

Oh and Reynolds 520 is dire stuff, proper bottom of the range tubing.

Reynolds 520 is dire stuff, proper bottom of the range tubing.

Steel tends to get a more emotive reaction that I guess comes from the durability, it's more likely to make a bike that's seen as a keeper that you get attached to. It's simple and reliable as well as having a classic element. It's no more comfy than Al is harsh though, all depends on the design.

CaptJon, I have a Soloist 853 which is
a) beautiful to look at
b) rides very nicely
c) pretty light.
I also have a 1992 Marin Eldridge made of Tange Prestige which is only one and a half of the above.

I love my aluminium kona jake that still lives after years of abuse.
But I mainly ride
Steel marin
Indy Fab steel
Merckx steel
Ti456
Steel fixxee for work
Spesh cross bike – ally – looks nice but not getting used
Not sure I would ever consider a steel FS – maybe because of the shock a billy I saw once.
Steel bikes just look nice and ride a bit softer, which is good as all my steel bikes are rigid.

Because people don't post photos on here of cracked welds. They just take the frame to somewhere like Argos in Brizzle. The bike lives on.

Ti for life didn't seem to last.

Because with brazing or welding, you can get frames made to measure.

Just look at the sexy curves of those stays:

I had one of those, fantastic frame, wish they'd bring it uptodate with a 29er.

Reynolds 520 is dire stuff, proper bottom of the range tubing.

520 is 525 made under licence in Taiwan, and can be the same as 4130 which is a type of Cr-Mo. But one 520 bike can be different to another because there will be more than one 525 tubeset (roadie, mountainbike, oversized, 29er versions etc). And even then it's not uncommon on MTB's at least to spec different chainstays as the Reynolds range is quite limited.

You can even get 520 tubing suitable to build into car chassis!

Steel tends to get a more emotive reaction that I guess comes from the durability, it's more likely to make a bike that's seen as a keeper that you get attached to.

Might be some truth in this, I'm a serial frame swapper, but I realised the other day that my 'new' steel frame is now 3 years old. If it was a new-ish FS bike it'd have the wrong axle standard, too few gears, not be dropper compatible and other things, but Steel frames tend to be more timeless by virtue of being simpler so they never get outdated.

You can even get 520 tubing suitable to build into car chassis!

Yes but it's material tech from the 1930's. I'm sorry I just don't rate 520 at all, it tends to build heavy, lifeless frames. Oh and you pay more for it because it's got Reynolds sticker rather than it just being listed as plain 4130 (which it is).

I've had a few steel frames and to be honest, didn't 'get' the comfy/compliant/feel etc thing vs other frames. They rode nice (Cotic Soul and mk1 Inbred SS especially) but never felt special. A couple of years down the line I build a Dialled Love/Hate and fell on the side of Hate - felt like it was made of girders (admittedly not helped by the On-One forks on it at the time). Replaced that with one of the cheapo Curtis S1s which CRC were knocking out and everything clicked into place. You just need to look at the frame to see why - the seat and chainstays are about as wide as my little finger and the top and down tubes aren't much bigger. Coupled with some nice forks (Salsa Cromotos) the ride is everything I imagined a steel frame should be after reading all the guff in the mags.

[quote="thisisnotaspoon"]Might be some truth in this, I'm a serial frame swapper, but I realised the other day that my 'new' steel frame is now 3 years old. If it was a new-ish FS bike it'd have the wrong axle standard, too few gears, not be dropper compatible and other things, but Steel frames tend to be more timeless by virtue of being simpler so they never get outdated.
Yeah, mine's 4 years old (but I've only owned it about a year) and I can't see me wanting to swap it any time soon, mainly because I'm tight/poor, but also because it's such a lovely frame and there's nothing else out there except maybe a Chromag Stylus (older one without the hoopty swoopty top tube) that ticks my box. There's a certain 'thing' about having a chromoly frame for those of a certain age who had BMXs- 100% 4130 (or whatever) was a cool sticker to have on your frame BITD 😀

By properly I mean traditional 1-1/8 steerer head tube, narrow 27.2mm seat tube, stays as thin as pencils etc etc....when done like that there is an inherent flex/spring from the frame that is a joy to ride.

Unfortunately the prevalence of massive head tubes to take tapered forks, large diameter seat tubes to take dropper posts and chunky stays mean that modern steel frames are often as harsh as their fat tubed aluminium cousins.

Yes but it's material tech from the 1930's. I'm sorry I just don't rate 520 at all, it tends to build heavy, lifeless frames.

A lot of steel tech hasn't moved on that much it's true - that's why it's so well proven and reliable, it's a good thing.

Oh and you pay more for it because it's got Reynolds sticker rather than it just being listed as plain 4130 (which it is).

Blame the CEN / ISO tests also, to be fair

I'm firmly in the camp of ride feel being dictated by the design, not the material.

You can make a frame stiff and harsh out of any material
You can make a frame noodly and compliant out of any material
You can make a frame with a mix of the above too

Some materials may lend themselves to one aspect a bit better than others for certain parts of the the frame, some may be cheaper or easier to achieve your desired result from, and some may have a weight penalty, but ultimately it's not the material that dictates the ride feel, it plays a part in the overall picture, but it's not the defining factor.

FWIW, I have Alu, Carbon, Steel (posh and boggo), and have had Ti as well, I like them all for different reasons.

Steel for me is about longevity, resilience, reliability and repairability more than anything else.

I've got a MK soul, so not the holy grail MK1, but it's straight steerer, 27.2mm post.

Had a genesis core (alu) before, and may mate has it now. They're similar bikes really, but I do find the soul more comfortable, fun, ever so slightly more flexy, I just love riding it, it feels ace, I don't notice the miles clocking up, nor have I ever thought it's heavy. I don't think I'll ever sell that frame. The hard bit will be getting forks when I need some.

Just building a genesis io (520, not the 853 version sadly) into a rigid SS hack. I just love the simplicity, clean lines and general aesthetic of a nice thin tubed steel frame.

I also have a scandal 29er (all alu - there's a theme here of me not having the 'best' version of frames, isn't there) it's fast, stiff, light, and ace at what I use it for, but I'd pick the soul over it for comfort and fun any day.

Hmm, the weight thing, the frame on my Solaris is quoted as being 2.22Kg while a carbon 29er frame (On-One) is quoted as 1550g so just under 700g difference. No doubt you could find lighter carbon frames.

My bike as built is 12.7Kg so with the same components I'd get a 5.5% weight saving by having a carbon frame. Would it be as nice to ride? Who knows, not me - I don't care as I love the Solaris.

Yup, steel frames rust out overnight...

[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8642/15938231445_f436f2917d_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8642/15938231445_f436f2917d_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]

So this bike's disintegration is overdue by 80 years or so.

I wondered how long it would take to post up a Sanderson. 😉

TINAS. Sanderson have updated to a 29er. The Town Crier:

[IMG] [/IMG]

Steel frames are not all made equally. With the right tubes and the right geometry they can be special life time bikes. Get them wrong and they can be bloody awful. I've had some absolute dogs, I won't name names, but also some some gems. The Kona Paddy Wagon was good, the Genesis Day One was really good.

My Sanderson Soloist is a keeper. It needs a fresh coat of paint, but I'll have a new dropout welded in with a mech hanger so I can run gears if I want to. How many carbon or aluminium frames can I do that with?

Those Sandersons look good, where are they based? Their website seems borked in that respect.

[s]Steel [/s]frames are not all made equally

As others have said, there can be a world of difference between bikes. My other steel bike is an On-One Pompetamine and it might be politely described as "sturdy". There's no life in the frame but a lively frame wasn't what I was after when I bought it: I wanted a bike that was solid, reliable and non-twitchy for commuting.

Two bikes, both steel but I know which one puts a smile on my face 🙂

Or, why do people like Aluminium bikes?

i'm contemplating replacing my cdf frame with an Arkrose frame - mostly for the increased mud clearance.

the (approx) 500g weight-saving sounds nice, but the downside is a frame that is so soft it can be killed with a few hours cable-rub. Or (as i've seen at work) a frame that's severely buggered after being rattled against the bike-stands by the wind.

i had a steel Dh bike for a while. Shuttle-rash held no fear for me.

I've got my dad's old Dawes impulse. it's at least 25 years old, it's still a lovely thing.

People like steel bikes cos it's like way cheeper than buying one.

i'm contemplating replacing my cdf frame with an Arkrose frame - mostly for the increased mud clearance.

This is 853, the so called wonder steel. According to folk lore, it should ride like a leaf spring, however. Its rock solid.

[IMG] [/IMG]

A bike's character is a function of its design, which includes geometry and decisions on tube material and thickness.

It's only been broken down into something more simplistic for the proles.

Wonder what Sandersons ride like now post-CEN? They were ace before.

True- any frame in any material doesn't ride the same as others of the same material. I remember a ti airborne feeling like it was alive/brilliant yet still stiff. Then another make that felt flexy by comparison.

I can't remember off hand where Sanderson are based. They are available from [url= http://www.independent100.com/catalog/24 ]Independent 100[/url].

iainc - Member

could always get a new CDF, they now have loads of clearance

the frame's £500, and i don't like the colour...

i'm not opposed to aluminium frames, i own a few, i just try and accept that each frame has different characteristics beyond ride quality.

the main criticism of steel frames is the weight penalty, which is usually around 600g - whoop de doo.

Wonder what Sandersons ride like now post-CEN? They were ace before.

You loved yours so much you kept it for a whole fortnight, if I remember rightly. 😆

I'm a big fan of steel frames. Mind you ... the last alloy hardtails I had were a Chameleon, and then a Pace RC305, both of which left you feeling like a bad night in the showers at Wormwood scrubs. Anything feels compliant, bouncy and positively Tigger-esque after those!

And as many have pointed out, skinny tubed steel frames just look 'right'

[img] [/img]

I have a steel framed mountain bike, I like it very much and that's enough for me.

When you took that pic binners, crouched/adjusting...you must have felt self-concious? I always do when I take a pic of my bike in public.. like I'm being a frickin geek.

hora - Member

...
If the Rocket can accommodate 650b I'd say its easy worth £700. This answers the OP's question IMO (as well as including some arguing within his veiled for sale topic). you know the unwritten rule- you post a 'whats it worth' thread and its open-season

My frame will depreciate? True- but its being used and I know I can use both wheel sizes in it.

wrong thread you berk! 🙂

Got an iOID made out of Reynolds 520 (shock horror!) and I love it. Its handling turns a dull ride into something fun and exciting. Great to jump and bombproof. A tad weighty but the Alfine is a heavy unit.

It's done five years of hard work and other than a little surface rust on a few stone chips feels as good as the day I bought it.

Might even do a few laps on it at MM24 this year.

TINAS. Sanderson have updated to a 29er. The Town Crier:

[img] [/img]

[Edit] 69° HA, thats really quite slack? I liked the old-skool XC feel of the life 🙁

My steel 29er, despite being rigid and having lightweight kit apart from the wheels, weighs 26lbs. This is pretty lardy considering I have a FS 26er that weighs 21lbs!

molgrips, bet those wheels (with tyres etc) weigh something like 4lbs more than the equivalent on the 26er.

TINAS.

My Soloist is the same geometry as the Life, but I have 120mm Revs on it. Measured a few times and it comes out at 67°. It's not slack in any shape or form, still feels very XC. They are recommended for a 100mm fork, but what does a bike designer known. 😉

molgrips, bet those wheels (with tyres etc) weigh something like 4lbs more than the equivalent on the 26er.

The wheels are about 1800g ish, at least the more modern versions are claimed to be that. They are Bonty Rythmn Elite and appear to be an older version since they are a different colour to th eones on the website. The tyre sare pretty light race xxx lite things. The 26er otoh has ZTR Olympics on XTR with Sapim Laser spokes so something like 1350g, and the tyres are Racing Ralph evo 2.0. So probably more like 2lbs difference.