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For bikes that are meant to spend their lives in mud why do they not run slx/xt etc drive trains? 105 etc is road orientated so why bathe it in mud?
I don't think it can be weight as the difference must be negligible when there is a pound of mud stuck to your tyres/frames.
Because cx comes from the road and predates mtb. What mtb groupsets work with drop bars?
Build your own specific bike like I did. 10 speed XT cassette and 9 speed rear mech with 10 speed 105's shifters, works great and perfect for the really steep stuff. Lots of riders choose this as an option especially when doing stuff like the three peaks etc. I use this option a lot instead of riding my rigid mountain bike.
Road stuff is not fragile you know, until clutch mechs and 10 speed DH bikes were often fitted with road rear mechs due to the super short cages and worked better with close ratio cassettes.
aP - MemberBecause cx comes from the road and predates mtb. What mtb groupsets work with drop bars?
Mine had 10-speed 105 with an XT rear mech and SLX cassette on it.
That's nice, mine has Campagnolo Chorus shifters and derailleurs.
Sram rival here, works spot on unless I chuck it in the scenery in a big style.
Because cyclo cross bikes do not need a huge range of gears or low ones either. CX courses are generally lacking in mountains and the short steep bits are run.
Of course maybe the use of cyclo cross is incorrect here. Non racing isn't cyclo cross. :lol:.
If the question as why don't rough stuff type bikes have MTB stuff there might be a different answer.
Because mountain bike gears are for jessies with weak legs.
That's why.
On a similar front, why do hybrids not have MTB gear ratios?
For a lot of people who ride hybrids, I would have thought that top end speed wouldn't be a priority, but getting up hills might be.
I know several people who use their bike to ride quiet country roads in a relaxed manner, and a granny ring of 26 or 28 just isn't low enough for them. One friend has changed to an MTB chainset specifically for this purpose.
Trying to buy a bike in this configuration is nigh on impossible and just putting slicks onto an MTB usually results in a less upright riding position.
It might just be me and my friends, though.
I've got a Bianchi hybrid that has an MTB triple, with 28, 38 and 48 tooth rings. Coupled with a 32 tooth cassette I have never found myself running out of gears, and the roads here aren't exactly flat.
The big ring and top gear is quick enough for commuting and general road riding, and the gearing seems sensible. Hybrids cover a wide spectrum, there's usually one to suit your needs if you look hard enough.
Non racing isn't cyclo cross
^^ This.
Cyclocross bikes are designed for racing round muddy fields. For race bikes, double-chainsets are generally 38/48t or 36/46t with a 9 or 10sp road block on the back.
You don't get up to road speeds so don't need a BIG big road chainring, and any steep and muddy banks are quicker to run up, not twiddle up in a granny ring.
You just don't need a wide spread of gears for CX racing.
I have been looking at a new CX bike to replace my Jake the snake, for light off road use, summer touring and winter riding. Seems there is an increasing number of bikes aiming at this non race market, with 34/50 chain set and 12/30 cassettes, which gives more useful gear ranges.
short cage
Mines got 50/34 and 11-32 out back on SRAM Apex. Works fine for me, though I don't race.
My version of cross, is riding it on the road, bridleways, trails and up big hills like at the weekend in the lakes.
And then touring bikes, ridden mainly if not exclusively on the road, often have MTB group sets!
Mines got 50/34 and 11-32 out back on SRAM Apex. Works fine for me, though I don't race.
Ditto here: 50/34 x 11-32 with SRAM Force groupset on WiFLi deral (as specced by me when I bought it).
My version of "cross" is basically just having a road(ish) bike that is fast on the tarmac but can survive being bashed about on muddy bridleways.