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My KS LEV is back in Germany for it's 2nd warranty repair and, if it goes back again, apparently I'm entitled to a full refund or new replacement.
I really like the zero cable sag but not too confident that it won't fail again as it's not even 10 months old yet.
Just been thinking of possible options should it fail and the only appealing options are the Thomson and Reverb but would be interested in the stealth version.
My frame isn't equipped with internal routing for stealth so would need to drill a hole.
Anyone else done it successfully? Any tips?
Steve
I nearly did and found a few people who had done my frame - Nukeproof Mega 2012.
Then I realised the seat tube opens into one piece extruded yoke and there's a side exit from the tube that allows a really neat routing. Used that and it's great. Love the Stealth, no more kinky cable catching on the linkage or my leg!
Liteville publish instructions for older frames but also then exclude the seat tube from the warranty (which seems fair).
Have a look on their site for a how to.
I *think* brant didn't recommend it on his stuff as the hole is in a relatively highly stressed part of the frame.
If it's an older out of warranty frame you can afford to lose if it cracks/snaps in 6 months time then give it a go?
Is there a seat tube bottle boss?
That looks sensible to me- I started with a single hole and ovalised it but that was a pain in the arse due to the poor access. (you want it oval or elliptical as the cable will probably be going through at an angle) I found a wee cable cover on ebay to stick over the hole so wasn't too worried about the looks.
Worked well so far, I did check in with the manufacturer first who said, basically, "Well it's not insane but don't blame us if it breaks" which was good enough for me 😉
I did check in with the manufacturer first who said, basically, "Well it's not insane but don't blame us if it breaks"
Yeah, Intense said the same thing.
It's a 2009 6.6 frame I bought 2nd hand BTW so no warranty issues to worry about.
I was thinking of making a bracket (like a front mech band) to support the drilled part of the seatpost but, reading the Liteville and PeterVerdone info it doesn't look like it's necessary..
I do like Americans and their choice of measuring systems;
[i]The slot will have to be about 15mm long (ctc) and about 5.8mm wide.
Use a small drill. 1/16-1/8? is fine.
Here, I drilled up to 15/64? (0.234?)[/i]
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It's like the British with weight and volume.
I drilled my codeine.Initially Brant said it was a no brainer (the seat tube is about 2ft thick) but I think the voices from above downgraded the advice.I hav'nt died (yet).
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I've had my carbon fibre frame drilled for stealth on the downtube near the headtube and then ring-reinforced and epoxied.
I'd show you a photo except my car blew up on the way to pick it up.
next week sometime...
no point starting a new thread. I just wondered how the hell you do the internal routing, drilled or otherwise? does the remote simply screw off? does this not cause a liquid leakage? do you need one of them little router screw things or can you manage without? or do you unscrew from the bottom of the post?? thanks
jaffejoffer - the remote just screws off. The manual says you'll need to bleed it after. I didn't.
I used a piece of 2.5mm electrical cable fed through the stealth hole to pull the hose through. This fit nicely inside the hose, helping to avoid any fluid leakage!
Cheers stevo
Pretty much the same here- IIRC I dropped a string through the frame, poked a random old hose barb slightly into the hose then tied the string to that and pulled it through. Something very like that anyway.
Aside- I pretty much wish I hadn't bothered, not impressed with my Reverb- should have just bought a Lev and stuck with external cabling. But hey ho.
I drilled my Bandit 26
As above, I've drilled my Spesh Enduro at the bottom of the down tube before it meets the bb.
Very tidy, ovalised hole then silicone sealant to keep it in place.
Quited tempted to do the same to my C456 and replace my LEV with a Reverb...
Hi James - about to do the same to a mates stumpjumper - any tips?
If you email me on james@ then the url in my profile I can send you over some pictures if that helps?
It's quite straightforward and looks really tidy when complete.
I drilled my morewood. Hose routes down seat tube, around the BB (between shell and bb spacer tunnel), onto down tub and then exits just before the head tube. I drilled the hole at an angle approx the same as I wanted the hose to exit at and did a lot of filing with a tiny file to remove any burs. Been ok for 1.5 years so far.
Cheers James - email sent. Was thinking of drilling out one of the hose guide holes - easier than making a new hole I guess. Is this what you did?
Anyone done a (pre '13) alpine 160?