Need to take the cassette off my GFs bike so I can sort some play in the hub, but I don't have the tool and I can't find anything that looks the part on SJS cycles site. It's kind of old school, guessing 80s, the wheel is a 27 1/4".
The lock ring next to the 14t smallest cog is 46mm diameter, although not sure that will actually give me access to the cones, think I may need to remove the inner ring with the two little pits in it - guess this is a screw on freehub?
Thanks!
Yes it's a screw-on block. Sometimes a whack with a fine chisel into one of the holes works. As it's bearings you're doing you should be able to tighten up the cone on the other side and do it without removing the block.
* Disclaimer - it’s pushing 28 years since I last used one, but it looks like an old Suntour freewheel fitting - they used a 2 pin tool to remove.
*Possibly* like this one
This to take the freewheel off - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185321563908
Yup,lightman has it, you can just make out the internal splines on the freewheel body.
@lightman is correct, its a Shimano freewheel (freehub & cassette combined) the tool used is a slim version of a current cassette removal tool. You don’t need a chain whip, just a vice or a wrench on the end of it. Oh yes, sometimes you need to give it some beans! Grease the threads when replacing! Hope this helps.
A local bike shop will do it for you…
Sorry, I was talking absolute bollocks - of course, it’s a standard freewheel tool (slightly longer than a cassette one but very similar in appearance)
Take it to a shop. It’s a freewheel and they are a pain without the right tool. They are a pain with the right tool too.
If all else fails, bang the indent with a screwdriver and hammer to remove the ring cover, remove the body and stick in a vice. I rebuilt one with more grease and new ball bearings once (whilst still mounted on the wheel). Ran beautifully, but a job you do once. Pawls need to be closed with a ring of thread when you replace the body.
@wheelsonfire you need the whip to remove but not to replace. We have some of these still on our hire fleet and they are ok to remove but the axle lock nut needs removing to get the tool on.
Tool Lightman links to + spanner + extension tube or two from a Henry vacuum cleaner. I've never needed to remove an axle locknut, the tool fits right in but the freewheel will be on there tight.
Correct tool from ebay. You may have to drop the axle if it isn't thin walled enough or those lock nuts are too big in anyway. Bit of grease as you do that and the bearings may stay in.No big deal if they don't. If the freewheel is stuffed the bearings will need some grease.
Stuff a big spanner. The tool is clamped in a vice and you turn the wheel. Anti clockwise!
Of course if it is only coming of because of the play which will be bearings just take the left lock nut and cone off and push the axle through the freewheel. The lock nut and cone is always done up solid on the right before fitting anyway.
Urggghhh, I had forgotten about freewheels…
Last time I did this I had to have someone sit on the tyre and grip it as hard as the could. Then I stood and bounced repeatedly on the 14” wrench for it to come undone. Definite 50:50 chance of bending the wheel force level.
Is it a solid axel or quick release?
The Shimano spline tool has a hole in the middle you can put the skewer in done up finger tight to prevent it camming out unexpectedly if brute force tactics are needed.
If you have a vice and the standard freewheel removal tool it's the easiest job in the world.
Tool in vice, put wheel on top of it, turn the wheel anticlockwise and it just spins off.
You DO NOT need a chainwhip.
I did about 5 of these a day when I was a bike mechanic.
Tool in vice, put wheel on top of it, turn the wheel anticlockwise and it just spins off.
I call that "the bus driver"
Thanks for advice, will see if I can sort it by just undoing the non drive side and slipping the axle out. Quite a lot of play in it so thought I might have needed to adjust both sides.
I have that tool and a massive spanner.
If you are anywhere the Tweed Valley you are welcome to pop round and have a go with them, pm me
You don't have to adjust both sides unless the right hand lock not is loose against the cone. Just back off or remove the left vside and push the axle out. You can almost certainly get some freshh grease into the right bearings with the free wheel still fitted. If not, tool in vice and spin the wheel. Those right hand cone/lcoksnut should be set before fitting dieally unless you are messing about with wheel spacing.
Vice on sturdy bench and correct freewheel tool, easy peasy
however as said the drive side cone and locknuts should be extra tight from the factory by design
so you should be able o undo the non driveside locknut and unscrew cone to get the axle out