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I've got a Surly Troll and the dropout (piccie from the web, with a Rohloff fitted) looks like this:
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So which Rohloff do I need? I'm guessing TS rather than CC but is it OEM or OEM2?
The [url= http://surlybikes.com/bikes/troll/bike_info ]Surly website[/url] says OEM2 but it looks like the Rohlof in the picture is OEM. Hmmmm....
I'd go with OEM2, I think. There's significantly less meat on the lower half of that track end than a Rohloff-specific dropout. It would [i]probably[/i] take an OEM plate without distortion, but it would be a risk. It would also limit the chain adjustment available before the tab drops out the track end.
You'll need a Monkey Bone to fit an OEM2 plate with a disc brake, of course....
Oh! Hold on! Looking at that photo again, I reckon that's a OEM2 mounting with the plate engaging the bottom bolt. The dark patch in the dropout is just shadow, and only the two upper bolts are holding the calliper. A cunning way of avoiding the Monkey Bone.
Yup, on that dropout it's an OEM2 onto the bottom slot.
And ts is solid axle, cc is qr. personal pref, either will be fine so long as you use a chain tug with a qr version.
Yup, officially you're meant to run solid axle on track dropouts, but as long as you've got a decent chain tug then QR is fine.
(Should I mention that I still seem to be on the premier club discount list, should you be interested in 10% off?)
Nice one! Thanks for that 🙂
I've used a Rohloff with horizontal dropouts and a QR.
Some Qrs wouldn't grip, no matter how tight I did them up, some worked OK.
I can't remember now which were the good ones, but going by [url= http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html ]Sheldon Brown's advice[/url], if you use one with an enclosed cam and steel teeth, I reckon you'll be OK without a chain tug.
Many, many years ago, when there was the worry about disc brakes causing QR wheels to pop out, I did some proper scientific testing of lots of quick releases.
Best was the old-fashioned Shimano ones, with the enclosed cam and steel body. Worst were various types with open cams, alloy levers, and plastic cam spacers - some didn't even past-centre lock, they were just relying on cam friction to hold them closed.