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I agree, but how far.
To me i would go Madone, if anything does go wrong i know i will have backup from a decent warranty.
Maybe this is me, but for racing buy a tool, a cheap Chinese frame reasonable kit and if it gets crashed, scratched so be it. If i am buying a bike to enjoy i would spend as much as possible on the frame, get some decent wheels and cut corners for most of the group set.
But as it would be building it myself, why have Super Record brakes/Front mechs etc when Cheaper will do the job as well?
He still calls a seatpost a "saddle stem
Sure your dad isn't a secret Frenchman?
You can get a full ultegra build for around £1100, so for £2500 I'd expect DA or ultegra di2. So seeing that you didn't know that, should you not be allowed to spend £2.5k on a bike? Although you did know a little, perhaps more then the op, so maybe you should be allowed to spend £2.5k, but not £3k? I'm not entirely sure how this system works.
I'd like to see that. Obviously the requirements are that it's a major brand, purchased in the UK, and is a fairly new bike (11/12), else that isn't really inkeeping with what the OP wants. So let's see this full ultegra pre-built for £1100.
To me i would go Madone, if anything does go wrong i know i will have backup from a decent warranty.
But Cube are still sold in bricks in mortar shops. I'm not sure I'd pay £4000 premium for a Trek, you could buy 2 Cubes, and still have £1500 left!
[url= http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bikebuilder.asp?action=GenerateConstructor&part=BB12RIB7005RACE&sub=conf_BBRA&bike=1 ]Not sure if this will work, but ribble Alu frame with Ultegra for £1100ish[/url]
Not that i would ever buy a cheap Alu frame and a relatively expensive group set because it makes no sense.
But Cube are still sold in bricks in mortar shops. I'm not sure I'd pay £4000 premium for a Trek, you could buy 2 Cubes, and still have £1500 left!
And if truth be told i wouldn't buy either. Cube because of the local shop support and Trek, because i am not taken by the bike
And is comparing a Cube to the top Madone fair? would it not be more realistic to look at the tiawanese Madones? a 4.7 is c£2200
I'm agreeing with Crikey here. Having 2 expensive MTB's in the shed, I have been quibbling about changing my Trek 1.5.
The decision is not helped by the foul weather meaning my rides are 90% (if not more) road. I've spent about a month now "researching" and asking questions on STW. I know what I want - 105 minimum, carbon frame, decent wheels (Fulcrum 5, Mavic Equipe, Ultegra, DT R1800 or above. I also want all of that for £1500 max.
a) What Crikey says, I wouldn't have been able to tell you that a month ago
b) I went out on my first club ride. The mix of bikes (low to high end) was amazing, but I rode with the top 1/4 no problem on my humble bike which I paid £600 2nd hand for.
Do I NEED to spend £1500 for the amount of riding I do? No. Do I want to? Yes. Will it make sod all difference to my riding, probably marginally if the wind is blowing in the right direction.
£2500 is a LOT of money to spend on a bike, as in the first para I have more than double that sitting in the shed being unused at the moment. Personally, I wouldn't spend it without knowing what I want, or whether I'll ride it more than one a week. Both my MTB's were bought / built to the spec I wanted with my 13 years of MTB knowledge / to suit the riding I wanted to achieve with either of them.
Its not about the bike, and you'd get an excellent bike for around half of £2500 in the sales.
And is comparing a Cube to the top Madone fair? would it not be more realistic to look at the tiawanese Madones? a 4.7 is c£2200
That doesn't have Di2 like the equivalent Cube though. But yes I agree, but that's rather my point. Is the difference between a 4-series Madone and a 7-series one worth £4000?
Given free reign I think I'd rather have a good frame with top spec (Cube, Canyon etc), than I would have a great frame with mediocre components (Trek, Spesh, Giant).
Its not about the bike, and you'd get an excellent bike for around half of £2500 in the sales.
But you'll get a better one for £2500. And you don't need to know anything about bikes to appreciate that. Whether that's worth it only the buyer can decide.
It's all rather elitist this 'if you can't recite Shimano groupset numbers you're not worthy' bollocks! If the OP won the lottery and wanted to spend £10,000 on a road bike that's his call!
Edit: and where are you folks on all the 'what car for £6k threads'? That must make your head explode, how can people spend that on a car without knowing? They should be restricted to a mk1 Escort until they've proven worthy 🙄
Given free reign I think I'd rather have a good frame with top spec (Cube, Canyon etc), than I would have a great frame with mediocre components (Trek, Spesh, Giant).
I suppose it also depends on who long you intend to keep the bike, if your buying for one or two years and then selling then maybe it makes sense to spend a bit more on components that will work for you whole ownership period. I tend to run bikes into the ground so would rather start with the better frame and replace with better parts as and when.
I'd like to see that. Obviously the requirements are that it's a major brand, purchased in the UK, and is a fairly new bike (11/12), else that isn't really inkeeping with what the OP wants. So let's see this full ultegra pre-built for £1100.
[img] 
[/img]
It came with RS10s, and I've also upgraded the pedals to ultegra (which cost like £30). So for a carbon frame, full ultegra, dura ace rims, ultegra hubs, ultegra pedals, it cost me about £1400. Not the best frame in the world, but it does what I want it to do very well.
since when is £1400 roughly £1100?
Since when you exclude the wheels that rrp at £450.
Canyon and Rose both offer bikes with full Ultegra for £1100. And you can purchase them here in the UK.
They just get sent to you in a box from Germany. Not really much different from buying a bike online from Ribble or any other UK online retailer.
Kind of is though, for someone who isn't confident with what they want, they are unlikely to want to deal with a foreign retailer with any issues that may arise (warranty etc.?)
Cannondale 105 Supersix and keep the saved £500 for nice new shoes and pedals and other stuff?
Triton are doing 10% of stuff free as well:
http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/m14b0s6p9248/CANNONDALE_SuperSix_105_2012
[img] 
[/img] non liquigas colours available as well
Since when you exclude the wheels that rrp at £450.
If you use the ribble bike builder the cheapest they offer a bike with Ultegra is £1100 that i can find
I had initially assumed it was the Carbon frame as it does say sportive racing on it. which makes the price from ribble £1400?
If you get a really cheap frame then you can get it down to £1100, but then the question is why waste your money tarting up a cheap frame?
Can I ask a silly question? Surely your first step is deciding what frame material you want?
Wimmins logic innit. 🙂
Just spent 2 minutes on ribble and found a bike with full ultegra for £1200, so whilst ribbles prices have changed, I'm betting there is still an £1100 bike out that with ultegra.
Well look at what's been posted above, that cannondale from tritoncycles. £2000 gets you 105 and tektro brakes. Or over at canyon for £2400 you get dura ace or ultegra di2 and much much better wheels.
Now the supersix is a very nice frame. But is it nicer then the canyon offerings? They all get used in pro tours.
Also being cheap doesn't make it bad, loads of ribble frames are the same as williers and de rosas and such I believe.
No, surely the first real decision is what colour?
There is only one colour - stealth black. 8)
Just spent 2 minutes on ribble and found a bike with full ultegra for £1200, so whilst ribbles prices have changed, I'm betting there is still an £1100 bike out that with ultegra.
Not denying the fact, i just see no point in buying a frame that cheap just to say you have an ultegra group set. You have cheap heavy wheels, a cheap heavy frame, no name finishing kit, but nice drivetrain. Be far more sensible to get a better frame and wheels and use cheaper components.
At that price, it's arguable. But at £2.5k..
Well look at what's been posted above, that cannondale from tritoncycles. £2000 gets you 105 and tektro brakes. Or over at canyon for £2400 you get dura ace or ultegra di2 and much much better wheels.Now the supersix is a very nice frame. But is it nicer then the canyon offerings? They all get used in pro tours.
well Triton are offering 10% (£200 worth) in bits and bobs as well..
I just like the look of Cannondales (i have a lowely CAAD8) plus for me they come in big sizes.
at £2.5k doubt you will go wrong with anything. Might be best trying a few to see which fits the best and getting that.
Also being cheap doesn't make it bad, loads of ribble frames are the same as williers and de rosas and such I believe.
are you sure..... you might want to do a bit of research.... as it isn't quite true.
Loving the Look
[url= http://www.epic-cycles.co.uk/Look_566.html ]LOOK 566[/url]
njee20 - Member"Its not about the bike, and you'd get an excellent bike for around half of £2500 in the sales".
But you'll get a better one for £2500. And you don't need to know anything about bikes to appreciate that. Whether that's worth it only the buyer can decide.
It's all rather elitist this 'if you can't recite Shimano groupset numbers you're not worthy' bollocks! If the OP won the lottery and wanted to spend £10,000 on a road bike that's his call!
Thats not the point. If the OP wants to spend a load of cash to say "look at my £2.5k bike" then thats his issue. If he wants to ride a decent bike at a decent pace, as has been demonstrated by many in this thread, he could save some cash (if he wants to).
My point wasn't about being anal with model no's, but (for me anyway) its about knowing what performs well, isn't a piece of kit that just annoy me / underperform with its feobles and lets me focus on riding to the point that the kit issues aren't in my head when I need to concentrate / perform. Thats to me is about learning about the kit to the point I know I won't get compromised at my price point by buying a duffer.
save a bit more money and order one of these in a frame only and build up with your own components:
http://www.colnago.com/c59-italia/
You do need to do a bit of research, if you think you're going to be out on it for hours, weeks, months and years. A few sit downs at the net and asking folk will pay dividends.
As I always say cheap stuff is cheap for a reason, then again all that glitters ain't always gold. Ritte being a fine example.
Call me old fashioned, but to me the frame is the be all and end all, everything else hangs off it. Putting stuff like DA or Red on a cheapish frame is the dictionary definition of polishing a turd.
During your term with bike you will change or replace stuff and you won't mind doing that, but you won't want to be swapping frames.
If I had 2.5k for another bike I'd get a top'ish spec Giant for my racing. Or a Mercian for my Sunday rides. Two totally different bikes.
Though having a look 2.5k is a bugger of an amount. It elevates you to from good to very good, but not great.
the OP wants to spend a load of cash to say "look at my £2.5k bike
why would you do that? 2.5k off the peg plastic road bikes are common as muck and would all look the same if they didn't put huge logos on them.
"hey look at my mondeo, i paid extra for the alloys"
I would rather a Colnago Master X lite with 105 than some some no name chinese carbon frame with Super Record.
Personally exactly the opposite - hence why I have a Pedalforce carbon frame with Record hanging off it (and nice wheels). The thing is, unlike you I don't see the benefit in having a Colnago logo on the side of my downtube - the only obvious advantage of going for the Colnago frame, given my PF is lighter than anything Colnago sell, handles just fine and is plenty stiff enough. I can feel the difference in quality of the top of the range kit every time I ride, but would be hard pushed to tell the difference between my frame and a Master X lite when riding (I'm not finely enough calibrated to notice that the PF is lighter).
The same comments go for a lot of the "excellent" frames lots of people on here seem so taken by. You do realise that it is mostly marketing costs which bump up the price of the more expensive mid-range frames? I certainly don't see anything inferior about a Canyon frame for example - a frame which is used on the Pro Tour. For sure there are some frames which are a bit more special, but they're well beyond the OP's budget.
Thats not the point. If the OP wants to spend a load of cash to say "look at my £2.5k bike" then thats his issue. If he wants to ride a decent bike at a decent pace, as has been demonstrated by many in this thread, he could save some cash (if he wants to).
The OP didnt ask how much he needed to spend for a good bike. Yes, he can get a perfectly good bike for less, but it wont be [i]as[/i] good.
Aracer +1, people worry too much about what their bike says on the downtube!
Aracer +1, people worry too much about what their bike says on the downtube!
you could say that about everything bike related.
Well yes and no. There aren't really no name groupsets or forks that outperform mainstream ones. There are things like wheels, and I'd happily use them.
Bad Ass bikes built up a Cervelo RS using Sram Force and 3T components for me costing about £2k using some old fulcrum 7s I already had, for another £500 you could get some far better wheels. Definately try sram before you buy, doubletap is so precise and is very positive shifting. cant see me ever going back to shimano for road stuff again.
I love the RS, its a very nice frame, stiff enough to make it feel like your power is transferred through the chainstays but flexible enough to be comfy on 100 miler sportives etc.
You should still be able to find some RS frames but they stopped maiking them in 2011.
I'd like to see that. Obviously the requirements are that it's a major brand, purchased in the UK, and is a fairly new bike (11/12), else that isn't really inkeeping with what the OP wants. So let's see this full ultegra pre-built for £1100.
http://www.canyon.com/_uk/roadbikes/bike.html?b=2500
Major= ridden by grand tour teams
available in the UK= mail order with UK CS office
current model year
pre built.
£1009, plus ~£50 for delivery.
What's my prize?
Haven't read through all four pages of this thread, so apologies if I'm repeating anything that's already been said. First thing is what will you be using it for. There's a difference between a stiff as hell out and out race bike and something a bit more forgiving for spending hours in the saddle. You need to define usage before you look at product. That aside the Focus Izalco Pro 3 won 2012 overall bike of the year in both Cycling Plus and Cycling Active magazines, beating the likes of Specialied / Trek / Giant etc. I think they're about £2,200. They also do a more sportive specific model that won best Sportive bike on test in Cycling Plus a couple of months back. Like Canyon Focus are a German brand and the level of kit (incl the wheels which is where you often see manufacturers cutting corners) is absolutely superb. If I had £2,500 to spare I'd need a damn good reason not to go after one of these...
I've done 450 very happy miles on my Rose carbon pro rs 4400, upgraded to carbon bars and cosmic carbones, you'd have £300 change to buy pedals and shoes.
First road bike, don't regret it at all, listened to all the usual crap about not spending that much on your first bike. If you can afford it, and you want to, go for it.
Only issue I'm finding with the Rose is I now just keep going, 3+ hour rides are now a norm its just so fast and easy to ride. I just pop out for a quick ride and before you know it I've covered 50+ miles.
funkrodent those Focus Foci? are getting quite popular with some of the guys I race. Though the wheelset isn't that good and most relegate them for winter miles. Nice brand DT Swiss but those ones are biffers at nearly 1900g.
As for Rose they make well specced framesets packed with features using the most basic carbon, similar to the very budget composite Giants.
There's nearly always a catch
I was under the impression T30/40 was the higher end stuff.. they do have a cheaper carbon frame (and a more expensive one too)
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/rose-carbon-pro-rs-4400-compact-532066/aid:532072
They do lighter and stiffer T60 frames, but as everyone seems so secretive about the origins of their frames we'll never really know.
A lot has been said about VFM but have a look at Giants Advance frames, you'll see they're T800 about as good as you can get, but stick a Parlee badge on it and the price triples.
Giant are pretty cheap really, look at their wheels. £700 for tubeless sub 1400 DT Swiss made jobs.
As much as I wanted something like Colnago, Basso, Pinarello on the downtube of my race bike Giant just came out on top on value.
Are those Giant frames cheap for a reason? I presume you're not putting DA or Red on it?
I think, not 100% sure that Giant buy the raw material? and I assume they buy a fair bit. So you get a T800 frame for 2.5k whilst a Parlee will cost double that.
Just using Force. I had Red on my trainer and couldn't tell the difference from Force, so I sold it and bought a new Force groupset for the race bike and a second hand Ultegra groupset for the trainer.
Get to a good LBS would be my advice. Sit on loads, ride a few, talk a lot and learn what you want/need.
I got a ti Lynskey Cooper built up with an unused (taken off another bike) carbon chorus 11 groupset and decent kit for £2k. Another £500 on posher wheels would have made it even better.
No better or worse than a factory carbon bike probably, but proves you can get something you want on a budget if you look about.
Thanks again for all the sensible replies! I will look into the Canyons in more detail and start doing a bit of research. I have a Giant/Specialised dealer and a Specialised concept store local to me so Ian going to arrange a few test rides, outbid interest how long do these usually last? 1 hour? Half a day? I have never ridden any other road bike other than my current Giant Defy so I am interested in if I can feel the difference in the frame material and components!
Can I ask a rather stupid question, a lot has been mentioned about wheels, apart from being lighter and stronger what else is to be gained from more expensive/better wheels?
Thanks
Lighter, stronger, more aero. The wheels will make the biggest single difference to how the bike rides though.
I have to broadly agree with Crikey's approach here. That said I'm not adverse to spunking cash on toys or indeed spending other people's money.
However unless I've missed it, I can't see what the OP wants to do with the bike; - race, multi hour cruises, or have a bit of bling.
Setting a budget is eminently sensible but there's point us speccing up race bling if the bike is never going to race.
Regardless of use, what will remain constant is the wisdom of upgrading wheels, saddle and possibly stem / handle bars from the outset.
My last two complete bike purchases;
Felt road bike in 2010.
Ran the saddle for 6 weeks before confirming it was poo and swapped it out. Immediately upgraded the wheels from Ultegra level ones to DA C24s. Also replaced the stem, brakes and chainset.
Kona Kula Watt HT last month.
Immediately replaced the (white!)saddle. Brakes and shifters also replaced as I don't like Avids. Easton EA 70 wheels have been OK so far but haven't ridden the bike much.
This thread has made me want to buy a replacement for my 1.5 again. :-/
Just got this on Friday past. Was originally £2680 but Canyon knocked off £240 as part of a TDF promotion.
Full Ultegra with electronic shifting gubbins.
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Interesting reading. I'm still pottering about on my 12 year old "steel-is-real" Trek that cost me £250. I'd love a new road bike in the vain hope I will (finally) get up the hills with a bit more ease, and hoped I'd pick up some purchasing tips here. I'm still of the opinion that I need to get to a shop and actually get some demo rides organised, so maybe that's the answer for the OP. Tempting as a mail-order-money-saver is, I'd love to find a good shop that can help me spend my money with some good honest advice and bike fitting.
Re the OP's question about wheels, upgrading your wheels is the single most effective thing that you can do with your bike in terms of improving performance. In terms of your questions "What's the difference", again you have to think "What do you want?" For instance if you're going to be doing some touring you want strong wheels with a high spoke count and weight is less of an issue. If you're going to be racing, stiffness and weight are your key criteria. If you're going to be time-trialling then aerodynamicness (is that a word??) becomes key. But without overcomplicating things, more expensive wheels tend to be lighter, stronger (less likely to buckle etc) and stiffer (less flex so more power translated into moving you forwards). You're also looking at better axles with more longevity, less resistance, easier maintenance etc. As alluded to before, at £2.5k lots of manufacturers spec fairly entry-level wheels. Just remember though, no point in expensive wheels if you have sh*t tyres. So your two first upgrades are wheels and tyres (and maybe saddle)
I'm still pottering about on my 12 year old "steel-is-real" Trek that cost me £250
Unless it's one of the 'T-series' touring bikes it's a lot older than that!
That Canyon looks great!
stevenieve,
Did we have an email conversation about that Canyon? how are you finding it? you got an incredible price!
Unless it's one of the 'T-series' touring bikes it's a lot older than that
Whilst it could have been sat in the shop for sometime before I bought it, I only bought it in 2000. I do have form in buying the old junk that shops are trying desperately to shift 😆
We did!
Only had the one test run out so far for an hour and a half.
Have sod all experience on a road bike so will take a bit of getting used to, even sorting out where the gears are.
First impressions are it's fast and bumpy at 110psi! not long in covering a few miles.
That Canyon looks great!
Apart from the saddle angle and the mini-pump messing with that carefully designed aero. At least the stem is almost slammed 😉
What size Canyon did you go for/how tall are you? I have been on their website and sit between the L and XL sizing, so not sure which to choose.
I'm currently riding an XL Giant Defy, which seems a little long, so the L might be spot on...
What size Canyon did you go for/how tall are you? I have been on their website and sit between the L and XL sizing, so not sure which to choose.
Pointless question
I'm currently riding an XL Giant Defy, which seems a little long, so the L might be spot on...
Just compare the geometry to this and work it out for yourself.
davidtaylforth - MemberWhat size Canyon did you go for/how tall are you? I have been on their website and sit between the L and XL sizing, so not sure which to choose.
Pointless question
I'm currently riding an XL Giant Defy, which seems a little long, so the L might be spot on...
Just compare the geometry to this and work it out for yourself.
Super helpful thanks.
Comparing XL to XL they are almost identical apart from in wheelbase where the Canyon is 18mm shorter.
The L is about an inch smaller all round and I suspect this would be suitable.
Super helpful thanks.
No problem.
Comparing XL to XL they are almost identical apart from in wheelbase where the Canyon is 18mm shorter.The L is about an inch smaller all round and I suspect this would be suitable.
It looks like you've worked it out yourself. Well done.