Or is there a better option? Am I better off using a hacksaw?
I used an even cheaper Silverline one, it did the job fine. Probably better than my cutting guide. I did use a stem clamped on the steerer as a guide to ensure no slippage.
That's good to know, thanks. I looked at the Silverline one too but didn't want to skimp.
If it does the job though then that's good enough for me. Unless I decide to take up pipe-cutting as a hobby I don't imagine it's going to get much use.
I've a reasonable priced one, personally used it twice, the second time I remembered why I hadnt used it in a while. Mushroomed the steerer so I had to file the albeit perfectly square cut to allow the stem on properly.
Perhaps it's blunt?
Have had less frustrations freehanding it with a hacksaw and will probably crack on with this method since my clamp guide vanished.
Use a hacksaw, new blade, take your time, andand keep checking. Really, you don't have to be dead accurate, a couple of mm either way is fine.
Should have mentioned that I haven't got a vice, so the hacksaw method may not be applicable anyway. I guess I may be able to manage it using my bodyweight if the blade's sharp enough?
As above, hacksaw and stem or spacer to act as a guide. Straight enough is straight enough, it doesn't need to be perfect as the steerer will sit below the top of your stem/spacer stack anyway.
I've used a variety of pipe cutters over the years but a hacksaw blade against a taped line has always worked best for me. It's one of those times you can trade off taking your time against fancy tools
I used one of these with a hacksaw, didn't trust myself to freehand it
I never managed to get a straight cut with a hacksaw.
Use a pipe cutter now - great for trimming down handlebars for the kids' bikes too. Takes about 30 seconds and is always dead straight. FTW!
I guess it's handy for your dad's pipes too?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077MD2W2F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3 steerers so far, 2 sets of bars ... even if it never worked again worth it. (and I think I can get a new cutter blade but didn't get anywhere near that yet)
Mushroomed the steerer so I had to file the albeit perfectly square cut to allow the stem on properly.
You'd want to file it anyway, get rid of any sharp bits. Takes another couple of mins.
edit: and a steel seatpost so far and a few 15mm copper pipes
I think my pipe cutter came with a spare blade, and yes you need to do a bit of filing afterwards. I definitely preferred it to a hacksaw as it came out neater and was easier.
Bought a cheap one, something like yours, along time ago from B and Q.
Needed it for the first set of forks we were fitting.
Just added up and its done over 30 steerers so far and numerous bars.
Never used it on any pipes. I bought a star nut fitter round about the same time along with a rubber malet.
Some tools make the job so much easier.
I have a couple of sizes of pipe cutter and a saw guide. I always use the saw guide for steerers. A straight hacksaw cut needs far less tidying up
The one I posted works
The one you found James May would use and not terribly more expensive... (see thread)
I bought a star nut fitter round about the same time along with a rubber malet.
Rubber mallet I use a Halfords or could be Millets camping one. I remember it was £3
Freehand hacksaw.
Guides are for wimps.
https://www.toolstation.com/dickie-dyer-pipe-cutter/p78737
(Pretty sure it's the exact same model that Rothenberger sell)
Zero issues for the occasional use it sees. Take it steady with the pressure with plenty of turns and you'll be grand.
Hacksaw.
I use an old stem as a cutting guide.
Hacksaw against a taped edge. Fork held in a work stand. I like to get it perfectly square just because it's a proper job. Draw filing is a useful technique for getting it just right.
I've not got the patience for hacksaw and used to go at them with a jigsaw, by eye, takes a few seconds, wouldn't even bother clamping just rest it on a work top fork in one hand jigsaw in other - sometimes not very neat but hidden anyway. Now I use a cheap pipe cutter which is just about as quick but very neat, I do get some mushrooming but bevel the edge on a belt sander to finish which makes fitting stems / headset slicker than a hacksaw blade cut edge.
My old pipe cutter has a triangular blade on the back of it which makes short, neat work of cleaning the bur off the inside of the cut edge.
1. Park tool guide and hacksaw.
2. Workout where to cut. Cut to within and inch or so. Fit old stem to bike Inc headset preload etc. Spacers on top of stem with leccy tape round the spacers to hold them still. Shroud headset/working parts with large rag. Hacksaw and file.
3. If carbon, use a tile cutting blade on hacksaw and go from both sides
Bahco adjustable pipe cutter, flys throuugh the steerer.
+1 for saw guide, easy.
I've a rather natty Swagelock one, cracking but pricey though. Pipe cutter to start and finish with the hacksaw will give a square cut without swaging the end.
Oh and if you've no vice a workstand will do or a Black and Dekker workmate type thing is handy.
I just use that LifeLine X-Tools Saw Guide and a hacksaw.
Does a pretty accurate job every time. Just finish up with a file to remove and extra bits. Job done. £15 too, so cheap.
Old stem and Occam's hacksaw. Much as I like a proper job, it's not going to be seen and if it's a bit off it won't compromise anything fit or strength wise.
scotroutes
Full Member
Hacksaw.I use an old stem as a cutting guide.
like!
I used a heavy duty Rothenberger tube cutter, which is made for steel pipes and has wider rollers than a basic cutter. I think the main issue with cutters is the sharpness of the cutter and also which direction you start the cut/ trying to cut too deeply too quickly which can derail the cutter. It cuts perfectly straight and a half round file and 2 mins tidies alloy steerer burrs or any sharp edge on steel.
Using a hacksaw, make sure you have a blade with finer teeth for a less aggressive cut and use a little oil on the blade to help the cut.
How do people gauge the length? I've always assembled the whole thing. Then I draw a line around the tube flush with the top of the stem. Cut the tube 3mm shorter than the line. This seems the only way to do it and you'll never cut it too short... not sure how people end up doing that
I’ve a reasonable priced one, personally used it twice, the second time I remembered why I hadnt used it in a while. Mushroomed the steerer so I had to file the albeit perfectly square cut to allow the stem on properly.
They will always do that because of how they work so you will always need to tidy it up with a file. Same goes for a hacksaw cut though, so pipe cutter is my preference.
How do people gauge the length?
Assemble with stem and spacer that you expect to use. Put another 20 to 30 mm of spacers on top. Mark that point and cut it (so that it's an inch or more longer than you think you'll need). Assemble it with an inch of spacers above the stem and take it for a ride. Adjust spacers as needed until you're absolutely sure you have it set to where you want it. Put a 10mm spacer on top of the stem and mark it, then cut it there so that you have 10 mm to play with. Assemble with a 10 mm spacer on top. Having the steerer slightly too long pays off if you ever want to change stems to something with greater stack. or swap the forks to another frame with a longer head tube.
I prefer a hacksaw, pipe cutters always seem to damage the area under the cut, flaring it out and the rollers can leave a mark too, I use an old stem tightened up with an old 10 or 20mm spacer above it with some sellotape on the inside to stop it spinning too freely, keeping the hacksaw blade against the spacer gives you a perfect cut, you can turn the forks a few times to cut from different sides, use a quality hacksaw blade, Stanley, Eclipse, Bahco, then a file n wet n dry stapled or double sided taped to a smooth planed block or wood to finish off, if you've not got one of those pipe deburrer tools that do external n internal chambered edge.
Also pipe cutters don't like thick pipe, copper n conduit are much thinner gauge.
And you don't need a vice with my method, just a bit of carpet or rubber mat to rest forks down whilst holding steerer or stem.
Don't use the pipe-cutter on carbon bars though... it crushes them... ask me how I know!
Hacksaw.
Measure it.
Measure it again.
Masking tape.
Measure it again and mark it.
Measure it again.
Cut.
@Harry_the_Spider you only need to measure twice to fulfil the terms of the old saying. Guaranteed to be correct after that 😉
I use a hacksaw and two old stems - one either side of the line.
Ransos, surely a couple of old spacers as well would save roughing up the stems for the next steerer chop.
I could count but I reckon it's probably 50/50 between a hacksaw and a pipe cutter?
Since I need a hacksaw anyway and a pipe cutter is cheap, I may as well try both 😀. Then I can do a test run with each at the top of the steerer and decide which I prefer. I've got two old stems so I'll do what @ransos and @endomick suggested instead of having to buy a saw guide.
Thanks all for the help 👍
I've used an angle grinder a couple of times recently with an old stem as a guide. Makes a bit of a mess, but pretty quick!
I'm in team hacksaw. If you're careful you can do it very neatly. I'm sure pipe cutters do a good job too (after filing) but they're not necessary.
...you’ll never cut it too short… not sure how people end up doing that
Confession time: Here's how I very nearly did. I used your method. Drew a line, subtracted a bit (3mm sounds about right) and then applied some electrical tape below the line to ensure a straight cut. Checked it several times, all good. Then proceeded to cut on the wrong side of the tape, meaning the steerer would have been ~12mm shorter than intended.
Fortunately I realised very quickly after just tickling the steerer with a saw, but I was VERY close to writing off a brand new set of forks (well, the CSU at least). 10/10 would not recommend.
So my tip: use the tape ABOVE your line so that if you get it wrong, you'll only cut it too long. The same applies to using a stem as a guide I suppose.
I used to go free hand with a hack saw, then used and old stem, then bought a proper guide, only a cheap one but it makes such a nicer cut.
Saying that, I've built then up with some proper shonky cuts, and as long as the spacer comes above enough it works fine!! I did neaten them up once I knew how long it really needed to be.
I've bought a star nut tool now as well, so hopefully that makes that a bit better. Although you can get away with those being slightly squint as well...
The amount of 2nd hand forks I've bought with pissed cut steerers....just get the saw guide for 15 notes and be done with it!
