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I've noticed some street and dirt riders taking the big, stiff Fox 36 and dropping the travel right down to 65mm and I'm wondering if I could do something similar.
I need a 100mm fork for a Charge Blender and there's really not much available apart from heavy, steel, DJ style stuff. If I could pick up a used Fox 32 and drop the travel to get the right axle to crown length that would be great.
However, I have no idea how it's done or what forks you can and can't do it with.
I'd also love to replace the 150mm 32 Float I have with a 36 to stiffen up the front of my Stumpy if I could do it without messing up the jommetry but that's another story. Let's get the Blender sorted first!
Any tips?
Bump for the night shift.
Floats are where it's at~ you just pop spacers on the spring shaft and hey presto, you have a stumpy fork that doesn't noodle doodle all about the town.
Vans are a no no and to my knowledge Talas are out too
its dead easy, as above floats only i believe
spacers from mojo, worked a treat with my floats
Older 130mm travel Fox 32 Vanillas could be spaced down to 100mm.
All good news so far, thanks for that. So with a decent Fox Float and some advice from Mojo I could be in business.
Now I have a new problem. Finding a fork with a non-tapered steerer.
I found this which is already 100mm but not sure exactly what an F100 RL is. Some kind of super fragile XC fork? [url= http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1247545/ ]LINK[/url]
Right you are.. F100 is a 100mm XC fork. RL = Rebound Lockout adjust
[i]It used to be F80, F100, Float 120, Float 140 and either X (terralogic) RL, RLC or RLT.
100 could drop to 80. 80 was only 80 and 120.. probably drop to 100 or 80 I guess.
Now, every F series fork is called Float (100,120,140,160) FIT, CTD or O/C[/i]
Fox did a 32mm chassis DJ fork called the 831.. IIRC this fork ran the crown steerer assy from the longer travel 32 talas/float forks to give increased bushing overlap..and therefore more stiffness.
Also a tuned FIT cartridge...not the old RL cartridge as per your pinkbike link.
The F100 probably has little bushing overlap so best avoided in your application imo.
Maybe?? get yourself a 34 float for the stumpy and use the 32 150 float on the blender.. although I'm not sure if any more than a 30mm travel reduction will work without messing with things on a 32. Being that the 32 150 talas will drop to 120mm.. thats probably as low as you can go.
I asked fox if I could run my 650b talas with a float cartridge reduced to 130mm on my 2013 genius.. the suggestion was 20mm was as much as I could drop without mucking things up on that chassis.
If you look at [url= http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/9042109 ]this photo[/url] you'll also notice there is no webbing on the back of the arch like you get on the tougher fox forks (helps with stiffness and strength).
I reduced a set of Float 140mm to 100mm last week, it was very straight forward (was doing a strip/clean/oil service on them anyway). They are up for sale but are quick release, not thru axle.
They offer the travel spacers in various sizes, if you want to bring a 140mm down to 100mm you just get 40mm of spacers. www.mojostore.co.uk/acatalog/Travel-Spacers.html
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