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I'm a tad confused. I've removed dozens of cassettes ( and knuckle skin) using a chain whip, freewheel tool and adjustable spannR.
3 years ago I was trying to fix a puncture in the Alps on my Spec Enduro (11 speed SRAM I think) when the cassette and or freewheel just slid off the hub and hit the deck. I was most worried and confused until the shop wallah said that's normal, that's what those freewheels do.
Fast forward 3 years and on my guide training the chap mentioned some new cassettes which indeed don't need a tool to remove them.
But when I've googled it, all the videos I can find under 12 speed / Eagle / Microspline / Shimano etc use that same cassette tool.
I've since sold the Spec, so can't double check.,
Which freewheels don't use the freewheel removal tool?
Just realised that I am wrongly interchanging freewheel and cassette, which may be the source of my confusion. ( The spiky bit)
Many freehubs will just pull/fall off : Hope and DT Swiss amongst them. They can be removed with the cassette still attached to them and just push back on again.
(The freehub is the splined bit the cassette slides onto when you're fitting it)
You still need the tool to fit/remove the cassette to/from the freehub.
All cassettes need a tool to remove them from the freehub body. As has been mentioned, some freehubs you can just pull off with the cassette still attached.
The helicomatic cassette could be removed without a tool. Had a Sachs one many years ago
https://www.borgercompagnie.com/helicomatic/history.html
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You still need the tool to fit/remove the cassette to/from the freehub.
All cassettes need a tool to remove them from the freehub body.
Aha, thanks Colin, Simon. Makes sense.
So in order to replace a broken spoke, remove the wheel, see if the freehub comes straight off, and if not then get busy with the NBT2/ Unior.
Cool, will try that just now.
Think I'll leave the helicomatic out of scope for now Nick, or my brain will melt.
Some hubs have a freehub seal that you’ll struggle to reseat properly with the cassette on. I’d probably say if a hope freehub is falling off the seal is getting pretty tired as normally it would hold it on.
Some hubs have a freehub seal that you’ll struggle to reseat properly with the cassette on
What he said.
That little green seal on a Hope freehub body can be a pig to reseat. It's very unlikely to happen with a cassette in the way preventing you from poking it in.
In other words pulling the whole freehub isn't an ideal shortcut for removing the cassette. When you reinstall it you might leave your pawls open to the elements.
on my Spec Enduro
There's a DT rear hub on my Enduro that does this. Actually pretty useful as it encourages (well, me at least) to crack it open and re-grease it occasionally as it's on of the easier jobs to do...
I use to find Hope hubs were good at dropping the cassette body with the cassette still on it.
There’s a DT rear hub on my Enduro that does this
DT as in Swiss?
Don't think mine was a DT Swiss, but I guess it's academic as I won't be using that bike on my assessment...
In other words pulling the whole freehub isn’t an ideal shortcut for removing the cassette.
Right thanks. Noted.
In other words pulling the whole freehub isn’t an ideal shortcut for removing the cassette. When you reinstall it you might leave your pawls open to the elements.
It's not like swapping a broken spoke out is a trivial task anyway, it'll take a bit to get the wheel true after. The extra couple of minutes to take the cassette off and refit isn't significant.
Freehub on my Industry9 used to just fall off, turned out it was a worn o-ring in the driveside end cap.