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Looking at Gorilla Pads https://gorillabrakes.com/products/shimano-grx-disc-brake-pads-br-rx400-rx810-l03a-l02a?variant=45281315848511
But no idea on right compound? Any alternatives?
What rotors are you running? Some Shimano rotors at that level are soft and say on them for resin only which means don't use a sintered pad.
What do/don't you like about the current pads and what sort of riding do you do?
Galfer are always worth a look. Blue if you're mostly on the road, red if you're mostly off road
Don’t like or dislike the pads that are fitted currently. The rotors at RT10 Shimano 180mm/160mm. Mainly gravel/off-road.
Rt10 are resin only
The OEM pads aren't bad, if there's no problem to fix, you could replace like for like.
What rotors are you running? Some Shimano rotors at that level are soft and say on them for resin only which means don't use a sintered pad.
Many people have ignored that warning and not died though.
Organic/Resin - less squealing. More power cold, less power when hot, and can glaze if overheated. Wear quicker.
Sintered - more squealing (especially when wet). Don't lose power so much when hot, last longer (especially in the wet).
Anything else is generally one of those with other stuff embedded in it.
As for why Gorilla need 13 different compounds, who knows, even they don't seem to be sure. "NRS" is apparently a different glue to the backing plate. Fine, but what does that mean for the compound, why does it have that weird spring, does that mean all their other pads will fall apart? Cynically I'd say it's so they can market them as being optimized in some way, £21 for "enduro pro ultimate" has to be good value right, it's only £5 more than enduro pro, which is a fiver more than the standard pad.....
Don’t like or dislike the pads that are fitted currently.
Unless you've had issues with the pads glazing or wearing quickly then it'd probably be fine to stick with resin / organic pads then.
Best can be very subjective, for example if you had glazed them then going sintered would make sense, but sintered pads conduct heat, which transfers it to the caliper, which expands the fluid, etc, in which case you'd want to go back to resin pads, or if you had both problems then maybe sintered pads with fins, unless they squeal on your bike in which case something else.... And that's before you even start to consider whether they give more / less power.
If you're going like for like then the resin pads from Total Bleed Solutions are decent, and much cheaper. They're my usual go-to for my gravel bike (TRP Spyres).
I have Gorilla Enduro Pro Resin on my MTB, but have only done two rides on them so too soon to fully judge if they're worth the price.
Oooooh, someone doing (cheapish) kevlar pads again.
I had some good experiences with the old Superstar Kevlars on my old Gravel bike, it might be nice to try them on the new one (which now has 105 Calipers )...
Anyone tried these yet?
I didn't have good results with superstar Kevlar pads. Well, the pads were fine, pretty good actually. The problem was that they wore a very concave track onto my Hope rotors. Faster wear than when I use sintered pads.
Thanks for the help folks. Ended up going with the total bleed solutions ones. Will see how we go.