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I currently have the epic bleed solution kit and generally follow there instructions but i am never totally happy with how much lever travel i still have when completed. I remember seeing a few tips and tricks from users here but cant find the threads. I did note on a few youtube threads that put just a pad spacer in the pistons to replicate thickness of the rotor but i have always used a 10mm spacer so pistons are fully retracted, which is right? Any other tips or tricks to bleed 2013 slx brakes?
After you've bled it, drop out the spacer & pump the lever once or twice then refit pads & wheel.
That should reduce the lever throw the easy way.
Having said that, I assume you know about the free stroke screw when you bleed those as well?
We often find doing an extra lever bleed after a ride also helps too
With regards to lever position,should i bleed when the lever is furthest away from the bars?
Goldenwonder -so after completing the bleed remove 10 mm spacer and operate lever once or twice then fit pads?
I have read somewhere that you have to spend a lot of time tapping hose and caliper and lever to encourage any air to come out.
Also if i leave the lever operated overnight should i remove the bleed port screw?
Google '5 minute bubble bleed', IIRC it's on pinkbike.
Great for sorting lever position/fee.
Any other tips or tricks to bleed 2013 slx brakes
I had real issues with the Epic bleed kit, but the Shimano funnel works fine for me. I think the problem with the Epic kit was the thread on the syringe, this may now have been fixed.
How often are you needing to bleed your brakes? It not like you have Avids. I used to have Avid Elixirs and they required regular bleeding. I've bled the Shimano SLXs I have once in 2 years. If you're needing to bleed the Shimanos regularly then there might be a fault/leak or you've just not managed a good bleed in the first place. Likely to be the latter if both brakes have issues
Find the Hope video about centralising the caliper & balancing the pistons, which applies to all brakes not just Hope. Makes a big difference when used with the "pump lever with wheel out" method above IMO.
You're essentially mimicking the compensation for pad wear & ensuring that the pads hit the disc at the same time.
Some interesting points there, i think my rear brake is not centralised so i will correct that first then try a few of the methods you guys have mentioned.
Calipers needed centering but it hasnt made much difference. I will try a bleed again and see if i get more success. Does lever position make any difference?
There's a Shimano vid, one of their race mechanics under a gazebo, and he wound the levers right out as well as the free stroke, so I copy him.