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I'll be getting a new frame with internal routing this year at some point and need a new dropper. My frame doesn't have routing for an internal dropper but it would make sense to buy one ready for the new frame, especially since my warranty expires in a couple weeks. I've emailed Transition and they've basically said fill your boots but wouldn't comment on where to drill.
I've searched on here and it seems plenty of you have done it to different bikes, Covert included, and I think the heavy 'overbuilt' nature of my frame lends itself well. I'm thinking above seat tube/down tube weld but there are some lateral and torsional stresses going through there. Through the front mech direct mount attachment maybe?
So, where did you drill and did you die?
Liteville have a how-to guide that's always looked sensible to me
I'd give transition an email tbh, this is the sort of thing you might get a thousand word email back on, they're that sort of company.
Ahem, Northwind, read the OP 😉
Cheers george will give that a look, Liteville know their stuff!
On my Turner I was advised to drill between the welds of the main pivot, which is about halfway down the seattube. If the frame is weakened by the hole, then it is also stronger at that point because of the vertical weld lines either side of it.
See here for a similar hole :
http://forums.mtbr.com/turner/stealth-mod-drilling-holes-your-alloy-frame-917427.html
I got some rubber grommets from amazon and that fits the hole either side of the cable and looks quite neat.
Oh sorry dude, can't read!
Well in that case. I got a pretty good answer from Cy for my hemlock, this is paraphrasing but it was more or less "as close to the BB as you can get, not too close to a pivot or weld". And having done it once, I'd do it off to one side rather than right in the middle if I did it again, it'd be neater but also much easier to drill- the location I did it was a pain in the arse.
Dremels are your friend...
Hmm, the Liteville guide says to drill on a weld, that has me a bit confused