[Closed] Where are we with disks on road bikes currently?

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One crash and you'll be cut to ribbons, just like with mountain bikes.

I have some, nice, especially on long descents and in the damp/wet. Cable so the down side is needing to adjust for pad wear. Only problem in a group was being able to brake well when I wanted and getting used to lighter braking.

At the risk of killing many puppies.

I love em. Would not have swapped them on the wet Mixed terrain Audax on Sunday. One bloke did comment he was "over" the cantis on a more traditional bike. But other than than that why worry unless you are buying a new bike.
If buying a new bike I would not worry either way. Buy the one you want whatever stoppers it comes with.

105 hydros on mine if that helps. The Ultegra seem only to have different STI. The caliper and pads are the same.
Discs though are here to stay I believe.

Where are we with disks on road bikes currently?

Stopping quicker and with modulation in all weathers. As long as you don't crash, if you crash your limbs will be ripped off and what's left of your torso will have a plethora of lacerations.

Discs caused Sagan's crash on sunday even though non of the riders had discs, fact.

Discs caused Sagan's crash on sunday even though non of the riders had discs, fact.

unless you are buying a new bike.

I may have ro choose a warranty replacement. Currently is Colnago AC-R 105 Caliper stick wheelset or Eastway Ultegra disk with Dt Swiss RR21 dicut. Name vs package obviously, but i wanted to know if the disks on the latter are somethimg to avoid or not.

Seriously, they'd be brilliant on long, alpine-style descents and in the wet - have them on the cross bike - the one cogent argument i've heard against them is that tight group riding on descents can get really iffy with a mix of disc and rim brakes if you have a rider who corners more slowly, but can slow down more rapidly.

Of course it doesn't sit well with the innate humourless, conservatism of some more 'traditional' rodies - think people who believe 'The Rules' are for real - but technology has a way of generating unstoppable momentum, so I can't see them going away any time soon.

UCI test footage showing disc brakes in action:

Love 'em - would never go back. Hated riding the roadie due to the brakes (they just felt "soft" and I lacked confidence braking) and being spoilt with discs on the MTB for so long.

Bought a bike with cable discs - they were good, but upgraded to hydro - wow.

105 hydro on winter/bad weather/commuter bike and ultegra/RS685 on nice bike. Same calipers on both, so one type of pad required in the spares box.

A

Where are we?

Still talking about them on forums like there's even a discussion to be had 😉

I'm a fan, don't see any downside for the type of riding I do (although bleeding disc brakes on MTBs is one of my least favourite jobs so not looking forward to that). I can see that for some riding they have little or no advantage (and maybe a slight disadvantage when weight or aero are the primary concern) but they're a lots more beneficial areas than just on long alpine descents or in the wet.

IMO there's no way I'd go back to a bike with caliper brakes. Discs are much better in every way for me.

[I]the one cogent argument i've heard against them is that tight group riding on descents can get really iffy with a mix of disc and rim brakes if you have a rider who corners more slowly, but can slow down more rapidly[/I]

I remember my Dad (in the car trade from the 50's to 80's) telling me that when disc brakes on cars first started to appear folk would worry about braking in too short a distance and the vehicle behind running in to them.

So he use to ask was that worse than running headlong into something in the first place...

I have Shimano RS785 disc brakes and they sqeal like a scene straight out of Deliverance and just about bring the bike to a stop. Eventually.

I remember my Dad (in the car trade from the 50's to 80's) telling me that when disc brakes on cars first started to appear folk would worry about braking in too short a distance and the vehicle behind running in to them.

So he use to ask was that worse than running headlong into something in the first place...

Yeah, that's fine for the person with the discs, but more of an issue for someone with rim brakes who finds themselves out-braked with nowhere to go.

Was talking to someone who guides on and off road for a living and he had exactly this problem with a group he was guiding.

Not saying it should stop anyone buying discs btw, just that it's one thing to be aware of.

If I was buying a new road bike I'd probably go for one with disks however initial concerns about the braking on my current road bike were resolved by changing to decent rim brakes (Shimano 105's from crappy Tektros) and, most importantly, decent pads.

I'm ambivalent, I went to discs for mtb in 98, when no one else had, also went (cable) disc on road 7 years ago. Admittedly that bike is a Trek Portland so it has the disadvantage of handling like an Austin Allegro.
What I've really been waiting for is proper integrated hydro discs, for regular road riding - so in the absence until the last 2 years my best bike has a full Campag Chorus caliper groupset. I've always been a Campag rider, but they've really dropped it on discs - an EPS hydro groupset would have been fantastic.
However, that's clearly 4 or 5 years away so I've got an Etap HRD groupset on order - originally to be delivered Jan 17, but now tentatively May 17.

I've got one road bike of each type. I prefer the rim braked one in good weather as it's lighter and I like the ride a bit better. I keep the disc bike at work as it gets ridden in all weathers and, disintegrating BB30 aside, it's more confidence inspiring on a descent.

I'm not sure this 'out braked' argument stacks up. I have to adjust my rim brakes off to avoid them locking up the wheels. Hence Campag making single pivot rears etc.

Even hitting alpine desents hard stopping power just isnt an issue.

Not to say discs dont have virtues btw.

just about bring the bike to a stop. Eventually.

If like me you are typical STW body-shape this may be a pie related issue not one caused by the brakes per se! 8)

I've never seen a problem with riders in groups having differen types of brakes. I've used my canti equipped cross bike as my winter bike and the brakes on that are no where near as good as normal road brakes and it's never been a problem riding in groups or doing chaingangs etc.

I've also been in crit races where the odd person is racing on a cross bike with cantis. Ian Field (CX National Champion) used to.

It seems odd that you are allowed to race on the road with crap brakes but not good ones.

[Edited to make more sense]

wilburt - Member
I'm not sure this 'out braked' argument stacks up. I have to adjust my rim brakes off to avoid them locking up the wheels. Hence Campag making single pivot rears etc.

What I meant to say above is that in any given group of riders (on road bikes) with people of different weights, with different tyres and different types of rim brakes - some set up better than other - there will be a pretty wide range of braking ability. I'm not sure adding disks to the mix makes any difference.

I've got a 2013 Giant Defy with 105 calliper brakes, and a 2016 Arkose with 105 Hydros.

The Giant has decent rims (Pacenti) and Swisstop green pads.

In the dry, the Giant stops fine, I've only ever had once incidence of brake fade (big road decent in Wales) which might have been due to me dragging the brakes.
It can be a bit crap in the wet though.

When they are working properly, the brakes on the Arkose are really good - especially in the wet.
However, I've had big issues trying to set them up/bed them in.
The front is now fine, but the rear brake is on its second disc and 3rd set of pads.
They are very fussy about contamination (one spec of oil and they are squealing)
Neither end is as good as the 2 year old Deores on my MTB, which just work.

I don't think I'd buy another bike with these particular brakes, as they are just too 'high maintenance' for my liking.

I'm not sure this 'out braked' argument stacks up. I have to adjust my rim brakes off to avoid them locking up the wheels. Hence Campag making single pivot rears etc.

It's a real life example recounted by a real life guide. I'd agree that in ideal situations, well set up rim brakes work just fine and arguably the main issue in that scenario was that the rider with disc brakes was less confident and was cornering at lower speeds, but braking later. Maybe the discs enabled that, but it seems reasonable that there were other factors at play too.

Anyway, if I were speccing a new road bike, I'd go for discs, no question. I'm more concerned with long, alpine descents and wet weather performance along with not wearing out expensive rims.

aP
I've always been a Campag rider, but they've really dropped it on discs - an EPS hydro groupset would have been fantastic.
However, that's clearly 4 or 5 years away so I've got an Etap HRD groupset on order - originally to be delivered Jan 17, but now tentatively May 17.

Campagnolo are notoriously fussy about releasing new stuff only when it's been properly tried & tested - the eps gear was floating around for donkeys on pro bikes before it got released - the most recent pics of their disc brakes look pretty close to being finished though, not sure if 2017 is being a bit optimistic mind...

[img] ?itok=lYR6AfY9[/img]

As for discs, I have Spyres on my commuting bike & they've been pretty good as long as I remember to adjust the pads every now and again, Campagnolo Athena calipers on one road bike & Ultegra 6800 calipers on another - the calipers on both are easily as good as the Spyres (probably better in fact) but both of those bikes are much better maintained, the commuting bike barely gets touched week to week & gets exposed to all sorts of crap & just works well pretty much all the time - had the cables freeze a couple of months back though - wouldn't be an issue with hydros.

For a money-no-option bike, i'd probably go for something with hydro discs & fancy wheels, but you'll always get much more for your money with calipers - especially for a "nice day" bike that won't see massive miles per year where discs might not be a huge advantage - but if it's going to be run in all weathers then discs are a good bet. Upgrading is something to think about too - you won't get many disc wheelsets under 1700g for less than £400 & many of the disc wheelsets on bikes are 2kg+

Ok, so its comes down to a Colnago with shit wheels & 105 vs and an Eastway covered in Ultegra & Ritchey with good wheels.

Whats in a name... 😀

They're still to expensive or shit IMO.

I've had discs on my roadie/commuter for a year and wouldn't go back, but the cheap cable calipers I can afford are toss. One's gone in the bin already, second isn't far behind. Had to replace with one of similar dubious quality due to financial constraints and I can't see it lasting.

I'm going to get a set of spyres when the next one dies (hopefully just before!) because upgrading to hydros is far far far far far too expensive aftermarket. Not least because I'll have to replace at least part of my groupset too.

Go with the best vfm, says way more than a name.
I recently bought my first road bike with sportive style in mind rather than racing so went with hydro spyres as a compromise.
Fwiw I'm not much of a bike fettler and fall into the camp of finding hydros great when they work and a screechy pita when they underperform. I've a mix of road/mtb so have 2x shimano hydros, 1x hydro spyres, 1x cable discs and 1 x rim brakes. The Avid bb7s have so far been the best overall combo and I've yet to do anything but grimace when the hydros show sign of a problem.

Kryton57 - Member
Ok, so its comes down to a Colnago with shit wheels & 105 vs and an Eastway covered in Ultegra & Ritchey with good wheels.

One of these? They look great value for the price - the 105 version with carbon frame & hydros is £900 😮

[img] ?itok=bnL-h4ov[/img]

Was thinking about the 105 one as a new commuter but then bought a bargain Genesis Volare 853 on bloody ebay instead 😆

Yes one of those albeit the Ultegra version.

However, my Wiggle voucher for it would be valid for a year and they've confirmed my broken warrantied Bianchi won't be coming back ever if I accept it. I could wait around for more bargains but would go a summer without a "good" bike.

Hmmm

I dont understand why all road bikes dont have hydros now, or at the min cables. They are so much better than than the "old fashioned brakes". There is a reason why MTB's all have them - they are a zillion times better. Plus there is no rim wear. I have gone through about 5 sets of wheels on my commuter due to brake pad wear on the rim. Currently looking for a hydro drop bar bike that isn't stupid money. If they increase in popularity then hopefully the price of them will decrease.

Where are we on riding so tightly together on public roads that you can't respond to someone else braking without crashing into them?

😉

I dont understand why all road bikes dont have hydros now, or at the min cables. They are so much better than than the "old fashioned brakes".

Better in some ways, maybe not in others (weight/value for money perhaps). A lot depends on usage - lots of "best" road bikes won't get much use in wet weather so for those hydro's can be a disadvantage as they'd add weight at the same cost point. For an everyday commuter bike doing big mileages then I'd definitely go hydro discs (in fact I did). For a proper roadie bike I'd also probably prefer discs but not so much that I'd change my current bikes to get them.

I've got two road bikes with discs and two road bikes with rim brakes. One disc braked bike gets used for 30 miles in all weathers every day, the other barely gets used at all. Similarly, one rim braked bike gets used weekly (some racing, lots of training) and the other barely gets used at all.

I've done around 3k miles on the disc braked commuter - in that time I've done three sets of pads (TRP Hy/Rd) and it normally needs a cable adjustment on a weekly basis (a previous post on here pointed out that Hy/Rd's are very sensitive to how the cable is adjusted). I've since got rid of them and the last 200 miles have been done on RS785's.

There's no two ways about it, disc brakes stop you better. My riding is through London, so a lot of swerving and braking required and rim brakes simply can't compete on stopping power and modulation compared to discs. HOWEVER, even now with fresh discs and perfectly aligned calipers they still rub. The other bike also has RS785's and they do similar. Both bikes have decent wheels, decent brakes and I spend time keeping on top of maintenance yet I still can't get them to stop rubbing.

There's also the weight factor. The non-commuter disc bike has quite a pimp build, the top end hydro's, Hunt wheels, light frame and decent finishing kit. It's still 8.1kg. My Cervelo with a similar build and similar weight frame and fork still comes in nearly 1.3kg lighter. On a sunny day when I want to do a decent mileage at a decent pace I'll ALWAYS take the rim braked bike.

For me, were I to buy another disc braked roadie, it'd need a decent set of wheels and either Force/Rival hydro or RS785's. Would also need the proper shimano rotors as I'm forever warping or bending the one piece avid style ones.

Finally, I think you really need bolt-thru on a disc roadie - QR's are (from my experience) the main culprit for brake rub. That Eastway looks to have QR's which would be a deal breaker for me..

Bez - Member
Where are we on riding so tightly together on public roads that you can't respond to someone else braking without crashing into them?

You've obviously never had me draft you for 10 miles on a Friday night heading home 😆

Interested in more comments re QR on disc bikes?

Note here I could get an Ultegra Vitus with QR15 for my Warranty Budget and have £200 left for a pair of Oakleys I need...

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/vitus-zenium-sl-pro-disc-ultegra-2017-road-bike/

You've obviously never had me draft you for 10 miles on a Friday night heading home

That wouldn't happen. Anyone trying to draft me tends to find that depending on how I'm feeling I either drop the hammer or I gradually slow down until they get fed up 😉

Interested in more comments re QR on disc bikes?

To be fair, QRs and discs have been mainstream for, what, nigh on 20 years now? And they show little sign of disappearing. I don't think futureproofing will be a compelling argument against them for a while, unless you want to always be at the leading edge of technology in the market.

QR disc bikes are OK, as long as you use decent QRs.

And by decent I mean Shimano, and nothing else. And then they have to be done up tight.

I've done about 10000 miles on a QR disc bike, when I got new wheels I had to nick the QRs off my old ones as I was pulling the rear wheel out of line and the front was creaking.

I'd like to think that was due to my enormous power, but I've not had an issue on any other non disc bike (and I had the same problem on my old Voodoo Bizango)

Aye, been using Shimano skewers with discs on and off road for over 15 years, haven't had a problem yet. Ooh, anecdata 😉

I'm a bit ambivalent.

I've got Campag SR rim brakes on the summer bike and RS685 discs on the winter one.

In terms of brute stopping power the discs win hands down, they still work in the wet, and you're not knackering your rims up.

However I really struggle with modulation/feel with the discs - especially in thick gloves, not helped by Shimano's awful ergonomics*. Feeling the limit of traction on the rear wheel in the wet is nigh on impossible and after a couple of "moments" I've now ended up mincing wet twisty road descents far more on the disc bike than I used to on my old rim braked one, which kind of defeats the point.

In comparison the sidepulls have a much heavier pull and much more feel. In the dry I can still stop very quickly indeed - as much as the tyres will allow - it just needs more effort. Stoppies aren't a problem either, although as above it needs a bit more effort put in.

The hydro ones are also SODDING heavy compared to sidepulls. I was genuinely shocked by how much of a lump the RS685 STI is.

*I've relatively small hands for a bloke. To be able to actually get a finger tip [i]round[/i] the end of the Shimano lever in big gloves, I have to run them wound very close in.(mostly because if you put any sideways pressure on the lever it just moves out the way). The levers have loads of freestroke in them, (and yes I have adjusted it as far as it goes) and so they bite very close to the bar.

What my ideal setup would be is a Campag lever running Shimano calipers and mechs. We'll have to wait and see what happens...

What's the sudden problem with discs and QR hubs? That's what my Amazon has (and the Sutra had before it). Loaded touring? Discs. Wet/shitty weather? Discs. Mud and grime? Discs. All the power and modulation you could ask for? Discs. My "fast" road bike still wears cantis but any replacement would have discs.

There's a potential tendency for front QRs to loosen and eject the wheel when used with discs, hence the Ride for Russ.

Aye, right.

There's also a potential tendency for folk not do tighten up their QRs.

Maybe that alone is a good reason for bolt through.

To answer the OP - for the average rider doing the odd sportive, chaingang etc. then discs have their place. Work better in all weathers, no rim wear, easier to look after (although I note someone earlier in the thread has a problem with his, but that'll always be the case with bike brakes as they don't often get enough heat up to burn off contaminants), and they don't make a horrid scrapey noise when you brake in the wet, etc.

I ride with them on my commuter (QR with shimano skewers, works fine thanks, and will be available from MTBs for longer than I'll keep the bike), but I'm not going to even want to buy a nice road bike with them on until they are lighter and/or more aero than a conventional rim brake. And even then, in the real world, I'll be choosing between discs and lighter components for a while yet - so I'll choose lighter components for now. But anyone that wants to buy a disc braked road bike and come for a road ride with me is welcome to.

..and rim wear is another one thats a non issue when bikes are used in a sporting, fitness way.

My winter Aksiums are in their 5th winter averaging 500km per month. There worn (concave rims) but servicable. The hubs have been rebuilt a few times and I suspect most people would have thrown then rather than replaced the spokes as I do but that would have happened on a wheel to suit any brake type.
There also £120 a pair so when the rims are done it'll be decent value. Summer nice wheels will last indefinitely.

I think whats best depends on what you use the bike for rather than the simple one type is better than an another argument this usually ends up being.

Wilburt has a point re. rim wear, but with the weather here (Glasgow) I've worn through rims at a rate of around 1 every 2 years when I did a shorter commute. For that matter, I've just replaced a disc on the commuter as it was foil thin after 2 years.

You do have to put up with a bit of rub from time to time, but with careful bending you can get them just about perfect (except when new pad time arrives and everything's that little bit tighter.)

Ok. Thanks for input all - I'm now sold on discs for my use, and I found a bike that'll cost me a mere £100 with a QR15: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/vitus-venon-vr-disc-ultegra-2017-road-bike/

It gets great reviews and more importantly matches my [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/vitus-bikes-rapide-29-hardtail-bike-2016/rp-prod135379 ]XC bike[/url] 😀

Interested in more comments re QR on disc bikes?

Add to that that somehow they never seem to go back in the same way twice and you spend half your life re-centering brake calipers.

A fleet of 50+ bikes with disks and QRs says you're doing it wrong.

A fleet of 50+ bikes with disks and QRs says you're doing it wrong.

Maybe so, but I struggle to see how.
Never had a QR problem on any rim braked bike in well north of 10k miles.
Had problems on EVERY disc braked bike with QR.
Never had any problems with discs with thru axles.

Ive just bought a new roadbike with carbon wheels and rim brakes and live in a hilly area. I personally think rim brakes are fine for road bikes and look better. I can see the benefit for discs on mtbs.

Whether disc brakes really take off is dependant on what chris froome and co. ride in the next few years, although I'm not fussed either way tbh.

If its raining heavily I go out on the mtb and not the roadbike though.

They are an affection. Like derailleurs. Happy to help.

42x14 and Shimano Dual pivots, ridden in all weathers. I don't have a problem stopping my 80 kg (including bike), but then I don't spend all my time breaking from the hoods either.

Just not stiff enough, even for a lightweight like me, inevitably ends up with best case warped rotors / worst case working loose AND warped rotors.
Add to that that somehow they never seem to go back in the same way twice and you spend half your life re-centering brake calipers.

I'm 14 stone and clumsy, and I've had none of these issues. If your rotors are warping and your bolts are loosening* and you think it's due to the hub being twisted then I'd be tempted to ask whether your fork is made of cooked pasta. 😉 Otherwise, are you sure you're doing your bolts up tight enough and aligning the calipers correctly?

* I took your post to mean that the rotors were working loose from the hub, or do you mean the hub from the fork?

I wouldn't buy a bike without hydraulics these days, unless it was an amazing bargain and had the mounts to install proper hydraulics at a sensible total cost.

Problem is, I also want tyre clearance for 38c too, including winter studs (I have a bargain set of 45Nrth Gravdals from CharlieTheBikeMonger, which bought me guaranteed ice-free days since their arrival in late January) and a carbon fork.
This reduces my own options down massively, not much else besides the Arkose X 2017 under £1k.

Purely on looks, I love the fluro yellow Giant Anyroad, the frame curves look amazing. But it still comes with hybrid hydraulics and only has ~32c tyre clearance.

I'm 14 stone and clumsy, and I've had none of these issues. If your rotors are warping and your bolts are loosening* and you think it's due to the hub being twisted then I'd be tempted to ask whether your fork is made of cooked pasta. Otherwise, are you sure you're doing your bolts up tight enough and aligning the calipers correctly?

* I took your post to mean that the rotors were working loose from the hub, or

Just to put a stick in everyone's wheels - a friend of mine currently rides a rebuilt 70s touring frame with deep drop caliper brakes. His current tyres are Compass 700C x 38 Steilacoom (although he's convinced that they're nowhere near 38s - more like 33s).

I'm still very much against, although some of the reasons appear specific to me, and perhaps because I've never found my rim brakes wanting, even in the wet.

1) Squeal in the wet. I *still* haven't solved this problem despite plaguing this forum, and others, for solutions. I've spent £75 to date attempting to fix (new rotors, pads, cleaning agents) and a good couple of hours pissing about in the garage, still not resolved. Have a horrible suspicion I'll end up replacing the whole system.

2) Component choice. I'm a very, very average rider, but I'm as fussy as a pro. Discs remove so many options on spec, especially with wheels.

3) Weight and cost. All else being equal a disc braked bike will be more expensive or heavier/cheaper spec elsewhere.

4) I find discs more fiddly to keep adjusted right. Cantis or rim callipers might require more maintenance (not in my experience) but at least it's much simpler. Even with the right tools I find eradicating disc brake pad rub to be a dark art.

I want my road bikes simple, light and quiet! I'll accept slightly increased stopping distances in the wet and replacing my rims once every two or three years (at my pitiful mileages) in order to achieve this.

We should probably take a moment to note the three conclusions which can be drawn from almost every single thread on the internet about disc brakes:

- different people have different criteria which mean that not only is their choice of disc or rim brakes a matter of use case and preference, but so too is their choice of variant within those categories;
- lots of people make claims with no direct experience, or extrapolate their experience to situations with entirely different parameters; and
- very few people are actually answering the original question

😉

1) Squeal in the wet.

I always chuckle at this one because it's one of the two key wins of disc brakes for me (the other being the lack of black sludge over everything). I've always found rim brakes squeal in the wet, and never discs. YMMV big time 🙂

I always chuckle at this one because it's one of the two key wins of disc brakes for me (the other being the lack of black sludge over everything). I've always found rim brakes squeal in the wet, and never discs. YMMV big time

I know what you mean, most people seem to *love* disc brakes for exactly the reason I really dislike them. There just seems to be so much more variability in quality/function etc. between brands, models and even specific set ups (I'm sure there are people out there with the same SRAM brakes as mine who don't cringe every time they have to slow down in wet conditions).

But I have neither the money nor the patience to keep p!ssing about trying to find the perfect disc brake when I could just go back to Shimano 105 callipers with stock pads and enjoy decent (or in the wet, at least predictably bad) braking without leaving a trail of pierced eardrums and frightened livestock in my wake...

Yeah, to be fair, dual pull road calipers are the one rim brake I found rarely if ever squealed. (Apart from the ones on my Brompton.)

Disc gives power and control.

Power and control corrupt, etc., etc.

My discs honk like an angry goose in the wet and I hate it, but they work better so I live with it.

Agree with the YMMV point of view though, if I was riding for pleasure I probably wouldn't bother with discs as I've never really had an issue with calipers for general riding and it would take an age to wear rims out doing 50 miles per week in the countryside

13thfloormonk - Member
I'm still very much against, although some of the reasons appear specific to me, and perhaps because I've never found my rim brakes wanting, even in the wet.

You are speaking for me, too, 13thfloormonk.

I am not entirely convinced that we haven't mentally manufactured deficiencies with rim brakes on the basis that disc brakes... well... exist.

I have a gravel bike with cable discs that I use every day, and two road bikes with traditional rim brakes that have had high (if not daily) mileage, and I still find that what I want in a road bike is simplicity, quiet, lightness, and speed. Discs, while I do not doubt their merits, diminish the experience in my opinion.

"Kryton57 - Member
For the club/sportive everyday use - Good? Bad? Are they here to stay or a fading fad?

POSTED 9 HOURS AGO # REPORT-POST"

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No chuffing IMG post buttons again.

Its been very interests reading this. I have a winter bike, and also don't do alps excursions, and also have never come to any issue with Rim brakes. So in my searching today, for £20 less than the warranty voucher so free to me replacing my broken bike, et voila:

[img] [/img]

Ok so it s 105, but the much praised 105 5800. And Cosine 45's which get great reviews. And Ritchey WCS finishing kit. And more "Sporty" than the Vitus I was looking at.

Do I NEED disks? No. Do I WANT discs, not sure that I'm bothered. But I've a very limited range of bikes to choose from, and this one looks different, is lighter than a disc shod bike, fairly good value and a bit of summer fun. Most importantly there's no extra cost.

Might just pull the trigger.

I'm exactly where I always have been on the issue - Discs are awesome and I'm never having anything that can only run rim brakes in my life ever again...

In retrospect I should probably expand on that. I don't have any interest in road clubs or road racing and ride bikes on road for fun sometimes, but they need to cope with all weathers as they'll double up as commuters. I appreciate the control and weather stability discs give me - the ability to lock up or not is irrelevant. Any brake can lock up - *not* locking up while braking effectively in all weathers is what is good.

I'm sure all of this has been said by others along with all the usual tropes on both sides of the debate. Really, it's a case of get the brakes you like. Choice is good.

That's a proper bike buy it.

(Unless you ride a lot in the rain wearing a hi-viz tabard and waterproof over trousers, then buy something with discs. )

On checking wiggles site I would suggest you should note it has a 52/36 chainset, 155mm head tube and internal routing. I would prefer compact, 160+ headtube and external routing but suspect thats just me and wouldn't be a deal breaker.

Its a good nice day out bike.

I would suggest you should note it has a 52/36 chainset

I did. Im happy with that for its intended purpose. This is my "fast" bike, i have a Defy to sit up on.

36 on a "fast" bike?

😉

I'm not a climber 😕 😉

salad_dodger - Member

I have Shimano RS785 disc brakes and they sqeal like a scene straight out of Deliverance and just about bring the bike to a stop. Eventually.

Either one of your piston seals has failed and is leaking mineral oil onto the pads and rotor. You need a new calliper, rotor and pads, or you've got sintered pads fitted and should swap to resin.

Mud is the deal breaker so depends where you ride.

Kind of relevant PSA: GT Grade Alloy Sora 2015, under £400 ('FIRST5' £5 off Code) 56cm only:

http://www.jejamescycles.com/gt-grade-alloy-sora-road-bike-2015.html

Arrived today, just the cabling to sort out.

[img] [/img]

Arrived today, just the cabling to sort out.

And the pedals. And it's too big for you if that's all the seatpost you have showing.