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Been measuring chain wear constantly, but only in the last couple of weeks the .75 end of my Park tool dropped through a link. Since then, it's been skipping like a welterweight boxer in training. Makes you realise the whole system is so engineered its tolerance is low. Still, wouldn't want it any other way.
Not surprising it goes "off" quickly. Its quite busy with a lot going on in a small space.. will another chain sort it quickly and easily?
last couple of weeks the .75
I change my chain at 0.5, at 0.75 it can mean you need a new chainring.
It shouldn't be skipping though. The drivetrain should just wear together.
Where's it skipping? Cassette, chainring or jockey wheels? And under what conditions? Muddy? Rainy? Under heavy load?
Is it a SRAM x-sync chainring?
I have had GX Eagle for about a year and I am on my second cassette, second mech and 4th chain. I am a bit of a horse but that seems crazy to me.
"Use a chain wear tool to measure chain
wear and replace the chain when it reaches
0.8% elongation.
The cassette and chain rings should be
replaced when a new chain is installed."
From:
Which is pretty stupid. We replace chains at 0.5. Any longer and aluminium chain rings start to wear significantly, followed by the cassette.
Having said that, as everything wears 'in sync' I'd have thought that you have another issue too. Hanger, freehub pawls, cable / housing etc.
It felt like the chain was jumping over chainring teeth, but it was completely filthy conditions out there today. Waiting for delivery of my new chain. Seriously hoping I don't need to replace cassette and chainring at same time.
Seriously hoping I don’t need to replace cassette and chainring at same time.
Highly likely that you'll need to replace the chainring. The cassette will be fine more than likely.
What you were feeling is likely to have been the chainring being lightly hooked, and the chain grinding and catching.
The chainring is aluminium, and is used 100% of the time, the cassette is steel, and each ring only used a percentage of the time.
When I have drivetrain issues, I'll replace chain -> chainring -> cassette in that order, after trying after replacing each.
Get yourself the park chain measuring device that has 0.5 and 0.75, and change your chain just after 0.5.
Just to add if you have an alloy direct mount chainring (that needs replacing) it might be worth replacing it with a steel one. They last so much longer - my sram 11 speed cassette and chainring took a new chain with no issue after I used the drivetrain for over a year with minimal servicing and the same chain. It was over .75 worn but not quite 1.0 when I replaced it.
I've started doing the old roadie method of chain rotation on eagle stuff given how much a new cassette is. Currently at 1200 miles, including some atrocious conditions and both chains are well below 0.5 wear.
I've had two chains from new, swapping every 200 miles-ish to match wear across the two. You could probably do it with 3 to really maximise your mileage out of the cassette.
Really easy to do with quick links and gives a good chance to give the chain a proper clean
"I have had GX Eagle for about a year and I am on my second cassette, second mech and 4th chain. I am a bit of a horse but that seems crazy to me."
Have you had to change your jockeys?
Check the jockey wheels - my Sram ones seize up with monotonous regularity once it gets mucky & the chain jumps or jams. Prise the seals out & degrease them then they work again (for a while)
Problem found. Took the chain off and saw that two of the links have broken. The one is so bad, it's moved the chain out of line. On both, where the plate surrounds the pin, half of the metal around the pin has snapped off. The other one is a line waiting to snap. I've not seen this on a chain before, but suspect it may be down to me bottoming out on fallen trees, maybe.
I had this when SRAM were making dodgy 9sp chains for a while. Only the symptoms started near the beginning of a 4hr race and the chain snapped altogerher at the end.
Tbh I'm finding gx rubbish anyway (jumping on big ring) so I'm not looking forward to it wearing
did it fail like this?
I was thinking of Eagle to go 1x on my 'adventure' bike that needs the range, but this is not making it look good.
GX in my biking group: constant hassle.
I stay away from GX ...
Yes, it's failed just like in the pic above. Have ran the chain from new since March.
Thats a week old chain on NX 11 speed. Various people have told me that Sram chains are not the best quality. They are tons cheaper than Shimano equivalents though.
As balance, I've ran GX Eagle (mech with new type jockeys) with zero problems since fitting.
The only real known GX Eagle issue is the older jockeys fell apart (all new mechs come with the new versions) and the GX mech itself is consisted fragile by some though it's been fine for me...
KMC Chains all the way - all of my family have them.
KMC Chains
yes.
These Eagle threads put me off a new Whyte 905/909. I went for the entry level 901 with 11sp NX. It shifts like a crowbar and weighs many g but otherwise it's fine.
I changed the chain to a KMC after a couple of rides. The original SRAM chain was full of sticky grease and turned the whole drivetrain into a conveyor belt of cack
I changed the chain to a KMC after a couple of rides. The original SRAM chain was full of sticky grease and turned the whole drivetrain into a conveyor belt of cack
To be honest I thought most chains turn up like that?
I use a chain cleaner once fitted to the bike then put on a chain lube of choice. I think the original stuff is just put on to protect them whilst being moved around the world and potentially stored on a shelf for years.
which kmc chain is recommended and bought from where?
i've been impressed with the wear rate with GX eagle compared to the 11 speed. just changed the chain on mine at 0.75 at about 900 miles and its still working perfectly. its actually needed less fiddling with than the 11 speed i had before.
still shifts perfectly even though the mech has a slight bend in it, which isn't surprising looking at the marks on it.
i did have to free up and regrease a jockey bearing after a very wet and messy weekend racing in the SES at dunnon, that weekend also killed both sets of nearly new brake pads and a GXP bottom bracket.