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Hiya folks. I've a pair of a Surly Marge Lite rims, and Bontrager Jackalope hubs I've been hoping to build (to go on a Surly ICT!), but unfortunately due to the whole situation, the only decent LBS around here is shut. I can lace the wheels no prob, and was going to buy a truing stand and give it a go truing and dishing it myself, but for a 190mm hub, they're prohibitively expensive.
If anyone knows any wheelbuilders, or anyone who could possibly true a laced wheel (even better) that would be amazing. Looking for someone around Uxbridge/Watford/Harrow.
Thanks
Buy the Roger Musson ebook. It has plans for a timber truing stand. Would be trivial to make it big enough to accommodate fat hubs.
Could you use your fork/frame and some steel rules or cable ties to true it? I also recomend the Roger Musson book
Not NW London, but couldn't recommend SBC Cycles enough. SBC Cycles
41 Cropley St, N1 7HT
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm not experienced at all with regards to wheelbuilding, so I really wouldn't feel too comfortable doing it on a self-made jig, as I'm not sure how accurate it would be. I've only ever trued one wheel myself, on someone else's stand.
SBC Cycles looks like a fantastic bike shop but unfortunately is way too far for me 🙁
Do you know Lunar Cycles in Kentish Town. I've never used them, but they have a solid reputation.
That's still fairly far from me unfortunately.
I think I'm just going to give it a go myself. Purchased the Roger Musson Ebook and I'm not too sure how well I'd be able to put together such a stand, so I'm just going to get the Park Tools one as an investment
I'm just purchasing the spokes but I've run into a bit of an issue, if anyone might be able to help out. The spoke lengths I need for the front are 265 and 266.9, and for the back, 267.8 and 265.1. Looking at getting the ACI Alpina ones from Cyclebasket, but they only come in even lengths. Would 266 instead of 265 be okay, and 268 for the other two?
Cheers
I built the stand out of crappy particle board with wonky cuts. For the first build I unused Lego for the gauges. Yeah not quite as easy as the park etc but you will still get a round and straight wheel. Did a good 15 wheels on it before I snapped up a nice retro cast one.
I'd be happy with those lengths.
Belated shout out for Lunar Cycles - had a wheel rebuilt 18 months back. Great service.
Would 266 instead of 265 be okay, and 268 for the other two?
I'd go 264 / 266 / 268 / 266 for those.
Thanks for the responses all. Turns out I'm a bit of an idiot and forgot to accommodate for the spoke hole offset - the difference in-between spokes on the rim, and got the rim ERD off by 0.5mm which made a notable difference. The new figures I got and what I rounded them to are:
Front Wheel: NDS: 263.3 -> 264, DS: 264.8 -> 264
Rear Wheel: NDS: 265.5 -> 266, DS: 263.4 -> 264
I've ordered the spokes (hope they're not wrong) and the Park Tools stand, hopefully all will go well with the new ebook as my companion!
Also, according to my LBS, anti-seize is a prerequisite for threading the spokes in, but there's so many different kinds I'm at a loss. Park Tools, Shimano, Copper anti-seize, aluminium anti-seize. Gah!
Also, according to my LBS, anti-seize is a prerequisite for threading the spokes in, but there’s so many different kinds I’m at a loss. Park Tools, Shimano, Copper anti-seize, aluminium anti-seize. Gah!
I just use a bit of regular car engine oil (unused!) and dip the ends of the spokes into it. None of my wheels have ever had seized spokes doing this, although as I only ever use brass nipples, it's never really been a problem.
The most useful tool I made myself was a spoke driver bit - effectively, a flat-head screwdriver bit chopped down to a point with a dremel so it looks a bit like this. I made a couple with different length "points", but I should probably go and buy a proper one now! These solve two problems and make life a whole lot easier when lacing up:
1) It's quicker than a manual driver
2) It sets the wheel up for tensioning
(The purpose of the point is to push the driver off the nipple as the spoke comes through. This means that you'll start your wheel build with all of the nipples screwed in the same amount which means you'll have less vertical adjustment to make when starting out)
Good luck. I'm no pro builder and don't make a lot of wheels, but every wheel I've made has been strong and has stayed true. There's no magic - follow the instructions in the book and you literally can't go wrong 🙂
Maybe try Shorter Rochford in N.Finchley?
Thanks for the advice daern, as someone new to wheelbuilding it's much appreciated!
I have heard the tip of using oil to coat the spoke threads as opposed to anti-seize, I'll try giving that a go - I've been reading the Roger Musson book and he doesn't reccommend anti-seize anywhere, but oil instead. I have 3 in 1 oil, hopefully that will be okay. I do wonder if grease would be better, but I don't even know..
That spoke driver looks like a fantastic tool. I can really see how much easier it would make lacing the spokes up, all to the same length. I don't have a dremel on hand, and not sure I'd be able to get such a tool in time unfortunately, but it looks pretty neat.