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Hi All,
Having a go at building up a set of wheels from scratch. I've replace rims in the past without issue using the same spokes, not optimum spoke lengths I Know. So I thought I'd give a scratch build a go.
When OnOne where selling off a load of rims I bought a couple of sets of WTB ST i25 with the intention of lacing them into some pro2 evos.
So, I calculated the lengths using the calculator on the Pro Wheelbuilder site and confirmed them on the DT Swiss and bought some spokes.
The lacing up went ok, no issues. I put them to one side for a month before dishing and tensioning as I didn't have the time to finish them off.
Anyway to cut a long story. I tried to dish them last night and the spokes on the non-drive side are too short (1mm thread showing) while the drive side are almost spot on. Admittingly I havent tensioned them yet, but I doubt that they are that slack that I'll lose the showing threads. I have double checked that I calculated the lengths and ordered correctly and all was good there.
What am I missing here? any help will be greatly appreciated.
It will probably be OK, but the only way to tell would be to go ahead and tension the wheel and then see. Did you measure yourself or use published figures? If it is still a prob you could (re)measure and see if there is a difference. Including the spokes in case you got sent a wrong length.
What type of nipples are you using (material and length)?
Even if some thread does show, it will be ok
As you can usually only get spokes in 2mm increments the fact that 1mm of thread is showing really doesn't mean that they're too short. There's always a compromise there, and better that you've still got thread to use than you run out of thread when tensioning.
Have you tensioned the wheels yet? If so I’d start doing that process unril it’s fairly straight and true and taught then check the dish. I’ve tended to do that near the end before then giving w good relief of the spokes and then a final true.
Have you got a tension meter? I found that made it quicker to get he tension all on and fairly true when I built my last set of wheels. The previous couple of sets I built without one and it definitely took a little longer.
Well it seams that it is user error 😳, it must be my dyslexia kicking in. Guess What I'll be doing tonight 🙄.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions...
Spoke threads are usually about 9-10 mm long so 1 mm showing before tensioning is about right with standard 12 mm nipples I expect.
This is the (excellent) book I used by Roger Musson (£9). He says you should always measure the rim diameter and hub flanges before ordering spokes as you can never trust the online calculators that use supposedly correct measurements. I have certainly seen incorrect information in my limited experience.
https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php
A week on and I thought I'd share what I've learnt.
1. Get the wheelpro book (linky above), it's only £9. I did find a free copy, but as it's such a good resource I ended up paying for it. Just to appreciate Rogers hard work in writing it.
2. Measure and double check - Luckily for me the published measurements were spot on.
3. Roger recommends using a heavy glove for stressing the parallel spoke pairs. I did wonder why, four blisters later I know why.
4. This next one may be a bit controversial - For me, if the calculated lengths are 1mm different, buy only one length. The longest. It will save you from making the mistake I made in putting the spoke in the wrong side..
Anyway, One week in on my new rear wheel and all is good. Re checked the tensions this morning, not had to touch it.
Thanks to everyone who posted up their help and suggestions.
Andrew