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I'm building a new set of wheel for my plus bike. The front has gone together just fine with all new parts however the back is being built on a used hub (DT swiss 350). I'm using Roger Musson's book though this is not the first wheel I've built (done about 12 now). The marks on the rear hub don't appear to coincide with any of the three illustrated lacing patterns. They are closest to option B from RM's book, however the NDS appear rotated one spoke hole to the right (looking at the picture in the book). It almost looks like perhaps a rim with hole stagger the other way was used (or a previous build made a mistake and chose the right rather than left hole when sighting). All laced up and tensioned to nipple driver length the pattern looks OK but has the annoying closing gap where the valve sits. The hub came out of a wheel when I bought it and looking at the pictures I have from them I have laced it consistently with what was there previously. My question (other than will it bug me which only I can answer) is this lacing pattern valid still (is it the fourth pattern RM indicates but does not illustrate?) or am I going to be better off redoing it not following the witness marks on one side (or more likely with a brand new hub!)
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Can't exactly follow your explanation, but.
having a closing gap at the valve is no good, but there must be normal parallel gaps somewhere if it's built right. Surely you can just move the spokes round in the rim? I.e. undo one, move the next one to that hole, and go all the way around.
Or yes, the old rim had holes which were offset the other way.
There are parallel spokes yes. I can see two ways they could move one hole that would correct the gap but neither I think would be good for other reasons. To move round one rim hole on the drive side only would make the spokes too long I think. To move ever spoke round by one hole would mean the spokes were now in the wrongly staggered holes.
Or yes, the old rim had holes which were offset the other way.
So choice in this case is messy valve or spokes not in witness marks.
id built it right and not give a fig about witness marks.
Fair point. Will move it and see how it looks bit of black paint should hide the marks.
Sort out the valve position and use Spoke washers
use Spoke washers
What for?
I would say you have the spokes pointing the wrong way (inner v outer) which is why you cant line them up with the direction of the drilling without the cross over the valve. I would also say it looks like you have carbon rims in which case don't rule out them being drilled arse about face, and I would also add further that for all the stuff that you read as long as they are evenly tensioned and not built with cruddy parts they will be fine, even if that cross over the valve might annoy you occasionally.
It has taken me a long time to come to the conclusion that this is capable of being a problem. Â But I have convinced myself that it is. Â Rims with left-right spoke holes are handed - going around the rim from the valve hole the first spokehole you come to could be either facing right or left. Â Similarly with hub lacing, looking from one side of the hub through a spokehole, the spokehole opposite and one place clockwise could be either the same type (ie leading or trailing) or the different type from that in the spokehole you are looking through. Â These handednesses need to match.
So your hub was previously built to a differently handed rim*, or built to a non-handed rim and so the builder happened to choose the wrong handedness to build it with. Â Or, it was incorrectly built wrong with spokes going to holes pointing away from the flange they were coming from.
*is there a standard for this?
ETA here's a link which explains it all
I n r a t s (mostly) but I'd say if you have a LH rim vs a RH rim and building a hub from one to the other then the hub will have marks exposed if you keep the best gap for the valve. That would be my priority, total pits pumping the tyre up otherwise, and you look the the noobest of noobs as a wheel builder
Ignore how the hub was built before, just build it properly for the components you're using now.
what he said
Thanks all. Going to be doing that tomorrow lunch time (full strip down and rebuild). Badly aligned valve is going to bug me way more than some marks which will be hidden behind the cassette (or under mud). It's a WTB scraper rim so confident that it is drilled correctly (matches the other one which built up perfectly). At the moment resisting the temptation to buy a brand new hub. Must not be such a tart!