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So I’m building my 3rd set of wheels at the moment - both wheels are laced 3 cross with 32 spokes per wheel. Hubs are pro4 Hopes, spokes are DT competition dB, and rims are DT XM481’s.
Lookin at the front wheel at the moment. Dishing is there or thereabouts, lateral true is good and vertical true is pretty good. All the spokes on the disc side are give or take 120nm according to my Park Tools Apple tension meter. I appreciate this isn’t likely to be a 100% true measurement of tension but all the spokes are pretty even and feel quite taught.
I haven’t checked the spoke tension on the other side yet but a quite squeeze would suggest they’re not all even and are lower tension than the disc side. I have eased / destresssd the wheel once so far by standing on all the spokes on both sides of the wheel and will do it again next time I pop out to the garage for a play with bike stuff.
Given the side that will see most stress is all even and taught and dishing is correct, I guess there’s not much I can do to the spokes on the other side of he wheel to even tension up without putting the wheel out of true.
Should I just be happy one side is near perfect and accept the compromise on the other side, or should I compromise a bit on both sides of the wheel to keep the wheel true but have a more equal tension on spokes on both sides of the wheel?
Both sides will not be the same tension. If this is what is stressing you, relax!
Each side should be evenly tensioned relative to itself but all four sides need to be at different tensions.
Assuming they’re true in both directions and the rim is where it should be relative to the hub, by far the most important thing is that the wheel is effectively destressed (big hard squeezes of bunches of spokes etc, if you’ve been standing on it you’ve probably done this already).
Get some tyres on and see how they ride !
The strength in a spoked wheel comes from its ability to spread the energy through the whole wheel, and this is best achieved by uniform tension in the spokes. As @vincienup says, each side will have a different tension (unless the spokes on each side are the same length, for example if it's a rim-braked front wheel) but all the spokes on one side should be as close to the same tension as possible. If it's a front wheel, the non-rotor side will all be at a lower tension than the rotor side - they're all going to be longer spokes on the non-rotor side - unless the spoke holes/mounts on the hub are offset.
My view is that having the tensions as close as possible to identical in all spokes (on the same side) is the most important part of the build - that is what will ensure the strength and longevity of the wheel.
If the parts were all new and it’s actually straight then the tensions should be even per side unless you’ve done some huge and unnecessary gymnastics.
IMO, building tension gradually and evenly in the wheel at the start is the most important step although ending up at an even tension, with a straight wheel and with windup properly released (the squeezing and jumping etc) are all very important if you want the wheel to last.
Personally, I view tension gauges as things that make life quicker rather than essential tools. I’d happily build without one.
If it's all new and straight kit, then there's no reason not to get both sides evenly (but differently) tensioned.
I am for +/- 5% on my wheels. I know it's far better than I need or that factory wheels achieve, but if I'm not doing a better job, what's the point in doing it myself? It just takes more time to achieve it, but as I enjoy the process, that's not an issue.
Also, be aware that fitting a tyre will reduce the overall tension in the wheel. Pressure makes a little bit of difference, but the biggest part of the drop comes when the bead snaps into place (depending on tyres).
Thanks all. I’ll have a look at the non disc side next time I’m in the garage and see where the tensions are at. Will look to get the spokes on that side as even as I can and then have a look again at lateral / vertical true and dish. Will then destress the wheel again before doing final adjustments and tension checking. Will then get it taped and tubelessawtup with a tyre and go ride it. Back wheel time after that!
https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php
a most reassuring read! Easily the best value money I've spent on bike stuff.